Personally I wouldn’t go under the recommended cutoff, especially since they’re lipos. I’d play it safe, but take this with a grain of salt since I’m no expert.
Yep, assuming your lipo setup is 10s and 42V (at full charge).
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this, and also u r running bms bypass discharge
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Do these little washers go between axle and wheel or wheel and bolt?
My board came with four but I couldn’t remember where they went and I had spares so I put them on both sides.
My friend said since my wheel bearings have built in spacers I can just throw them away but I press X to doubt on that.
Ive got them on both. You can tighten your wheels more and they protect your bearings a bit. Makes the wheels spin more smoothly as well
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3.2 is really low for lipo
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both
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Any recommendations for elbow pads? lol I posted some pics on the bloody images thread. ( I could post them here too, but they’re gross asf.
Yeah the idea is that I’d rather dip closer to the actual hard stop of 3.0V rather than potentially lose control of the board in the event I miscalculate and run low. I get lower than expected consumption for some reason (somehow getting 25-35mi on 620Wh on pneumatics from 4.2-3.7V, more if I try), so the range from 3.5-3.2V is a fair amount of emergency range (guessing 3-5 miles). Since I will almost never actually reach a point that even the soft cutoff will kick in, it feels safer to have that emergency buffer than to do without.
So you think. The first time you kill a P-group is when theory diverges from reality 
anyone got a pic of a prototipo with a top mounted esc
friend wants a pic of one to see what it looks like
thanks
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Sure, just send the proto my way and I’ll take a picture 
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I’m checking my METR logs as one does, and my average battery current draw is negative…?
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Are your motors inverted via the vesc tool?
I think so, but while running forward is positive
Hi guys, I am having trouble getting the nut off of the main part of the switch here. The nut doesn’t want to fit over the heat shrink. Is it OK to cut that off and apply more after I’ve gotten it attached to the enclosure?
This reminds me of the flipsky smart antispark…Just cut the shrink, install ur things, heatshrink it again.
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Thanks, just wanted to be sure I would mess up anything too bad in the process ha
Don’t go full waterjet on it, cut lightly, if it is the flipsky smart AS, then one of the wire inside is solder across two switch pin, u probably don’t want to cut that unless u want to do more soldering
Thanks for the help! I’ll give it a shot