It’s ambient temp + rise temp. The calculation needs ambient temperature as the baseline to determine how much the temperature will rise at X amp/Y conductor width. So, BY, Felicia.
That make sense?
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I agree with @DerelictRobot, it is how much the temp will rise BY. This method avoids having to take the starting ambient temp into account, which causes all sorts of confusion when considering final temps under different conditions.
Ambient Temperature + Temperature Rise = Final temperature under those conditions.
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Yo! I’m going to hopefully finish my board this week. I was just wondering, what specific info I will need on my battery when I program my ESC in vesc? I’m so close to being done and don’t want to mess it up now.
Also, I’d just like to say thanks to everybody for helping me out. It feels good to know there’s people here, who out of shear generosity, are willing to help a noob like myself. Again, thank you!
P count, cell model and if the batt is wired bypass discharge will be able to help u determine what number u input in the vesc tool battery amp section
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Series count, chemistry (lipo, li-ion, LiFePO4, Lead-acid), cutoff voltages, and the maximum and minimum currents as defined by your battery builder/supplier.
That is required.
Optional is: wheel diameter, motor pole pair count, pulley/gear/cog ratio.
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The last board I saw this in was a premade from 2 years ago. Also didn’t use the new potted version yet. There is nothing special about the escs it’s just a remote with dual transceivers which you have to pair separately to each esc
u can’t pair the remote with the second ecs if there isn’t a transceiver on it, at least not on mine
The battery information on what you’re using.
For example: 30Q.
Your s/p group? 10s4p (example)
AH? 12 since 3000mah x 4(p group) is 12,000mah (12ah)
Battery current max? 15A × 4(p group). Split if you’re using dual esc. So it’ll be 30 on one and 30 on the other.
Battety current max regen? (Battery charge max current × 4 (p group) note: 4 amps is the max, so 16 amps. Split if using dual esc
Voltage cut off start: could be near 34v
Cut off end: could be near 33v.
Note: this is calculated using 10s. This battery can go as low as 25v (highly recommend not putting it that low). Having it above 30v is beneficial for a longer battery.
And pretty much that’s it.
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all escs have a transceiver built in.
The remote is whats special.
dont really follow what u are saying.
i confused transceiver and receiver, but no, my second esc that linked via canbus doesn’t have an antenna for signal transmission. i don’t think a special remote would solve that.
wow weird!
Never seen a lingy without an antenna before :o
You sure its just not plugged in? the lingy antenna is unpluggable.
Possible they didnt put it as not needed.
Pretty sure that will be the case, dont think they have a second production line for “slave” escs
they are way too cheap for that.
i will see if i still have it once i back home, it was just a random order from ebay. still works but it tried to kill my friend once 
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Well you knew it was a lingyi before u let ur friend ride it. So technically you were trying to kill him 
it was way before i’ve gotten my first real esc, kinda noob at that time
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In my noob period, I was blessed by the safe hobbywing escs luckily
i had both, but i didn’t know lingyi was a deathtrap. hobbywing has been solid for me after 3 years
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In terms of reliability
Hobbywing > vesc > lingyi
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Fuck lingyi, im not getting them again even if they pay me to take it
Im in the vesc world now, hobbywing still ok for prebuilt, but I always throw in a “vesc tool compatible” esc so I get more power out of the drivetrain
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Hey guys,
Can someone with kahuas measure the length of the 8mm part of the axle (threads included) ? I can’t seem to find the info anywhere…
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