Why am I not shocked at this point…
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I wouldn’t really buy a battery from an unknown brand. But for mountainboards, I wouldn’t know tbh. I’m currently using my 10s10p pack that is under my deck (no battery box of course).
Alright👌 guess I’ll get a couple more of the Ovonics.
This sounds like a sensor issue to me. Were your motor sensors detected properly when you did the motor detection wizard?
What firmware version are you running?
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you mean this?
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Yep ty
friend of mine has a trampa with this conenctor for 2x 6s lipos)
we are changing to a li-ion 12s and i am confirming that i can plug an xt90s into the positive connector to use just the other connector for the main battery leads?
thanks
hope i explained it well
If I understand you correctly, you want to repurpose one of the ends as an AS? That should be totally fine, since it’s just a series connector and essentially functions as another connector in your loop.
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yep to repurpose the positive side one (red wires) as a antispark
thanks and just confirming that i wasnt going mad and doing a stupid
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The main reason is if you intend to jump it at all, you just can’t get even close to the amp discharge you need with liion in a small pack.
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Anyone ever heard of Warming Up your VESC?
Yes, warming up your vesc… I have to do it before every ride, and it makes no sense to me.
From a cold start, my board will cutout the motors if I push the throttle too high(id say 15 motor amps trips it on cold start). But I have found that if I put my board against a wall, stand on it and slowly increase the throttle, eventually it stops cutting out and allows full power no cutouts(It is now warmed up). I can now blast up hills with 85 motor amps full speed and throttle, as well as have 0.0 second ramp up time and shred grass.
If I let a friend try out the board (going very slow on a low setting as they are inexperienced) the vesc “cools off”, and when I get back on it will cut out unless I warm it up again(has to be at least ~10 minutes of very light back and forth balancing or just standing still on board). I always ride aggressively so it stays warm and there are never issues after initial warm up for me EVER.
Any ideas?
Persists across multiple motor types, sensor or senseless modes, updates, reflashing, full battery and dead battery, different remotes, resoldering input power wire pads, resoldering motor wire pads, vigorous banging and jumping with board, yelling at it.
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Solved - the motor cable connecting the esc became loose
yeah there are also 6mm spacers FFS I guess I either have to cut the ones I already have or go to some hardware store to find some metal tubing
unless I can 3d print one 
What is your motor temperature reading?
Bit of context, batteries first: I have a 10S2P 30Q pack that I’m using at the moment, getting about 15-17km. I also made a 12S3P LG HE4 pack that has been sitting on a shelf because it doesn’t fit in my enclosure and I later realised it’s very badly made and probably not very safe. I have a couple of extra HE4s and a bigger enclosure now.
Motors: Currently using a single Maytech 6355 170Kv, 14T/44T on 120mm Cloudwheels. I’m fairly heavy (around 225lbs), so the torque isn’t great. I don’t really have any desire to go above 30 km/h right now - the board can reach it but I can’t handle it at that speed at the moment, might be a truck or setup issue but I’ve swapped in whatever the stiffest bushings I could find were (I think 95A). I do however really want more torque for fun, and kind of need it for breaking. I’m either going to get a Flipsky 6384 140Kv and add it alongside the 6355, or get two 6384s. Until then I’ve ordered a 12T pulley but it’s aluminium so if anyone has links to steel ones/can vouch for aluminium that’d be appreciated. Similarly I couldn’t find ABEC/cloudwheel pulleys above 44T but if they’re common somewhere I’ve missed please let me know.
ESC: Unity
First question: Am I ok to put two fairly different motors on the board? I think I’m inside the ERPM limit with 170 and 12S. To match the speed I was going to keep the 170KV one at 14T and put the 140KV at 17T. If there are some noob mistakes in here please correct. What I will most likely do is buy one 6384 and then add a second if needed later.
I can rebuild the pack as 12S3P or 10S4P. The cells are as best I can tell more optimised for discharge current than capacity, they advertise 20A continuous and 35A burst. The 10% difference in capacity doesn’t make much difference to me with 40 vs 36 cells (I think anyway? I’m fine with the existing range because I live in the city, the question mark is just if adding the extra power is likely to tank my range). This leads to the second question:
Should I go 10S4P or 12S3P? I’m leaning 10S because I don’t need the extra speed and it can’t hurt to spread the load current over 4P instead of 3P even if I don’t strictly need it - I don’t think I’ve drawn more than 15A from the battery because I don’t go very fast or try to do hills at top speed or whatever, so these cells should be good for that in 1P. What I want to check is related to a spirited conversation a few of us had in the ESC thread about voltage vs current loads in an ESC. Does 12S up the risk for a unity considerably? Does the increased current draw of 2 chonky motors at 10S bring its own worse risks?
Well it’s not purpose built for jumping but it does get jumped occasionally.
Now THIS is an interesting one.
I’m going to second Brian’s question. Can you get us logs of both the motor and ESC temps for a “cold start” cut-out as well as a “warm-up”? Also, do you have any faults being reported? What do you use for logging?
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My money’s on a wonky solder connection that remakes itself with heat (tens of amps through a tiny area will hot it up right good) and it can only reliably sustain the current once it’s been “reflowed”. Would be a relatively easy fix with a good bit of flux and a hot air gun but it could be attached to something delicate like an electrolytic cap or something with a lot of mass so that complicates it
5 inches of 24awg wire for a 4amp charger to little? hoping i could get away with it (charge port side)