Ok I’ll try that
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Thank you
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If this is your first time, you should put your motors down asap and practice on spare wire. Spend a couple hours getting the feel for it, watching videos of good joints, and getting comfortable with your tools before you do it on something that could short/catch fire/throw you into the pavement at 20mph
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Any reviews about this site ?
What are the differences between all of these options?
Looking for a charger for 12s9p 50e so as I understand I need 100~120VAC OR 200~240VAC CHARGERS ? This looks like a decent option.
If you’re ordering from China anyways. Why not look at YZPOWER Official Store - Kleine bestellingen Online Winkel, Best Verkopende en meer op AliExpress or WATE Charger Store - Kleine bestellingen Online Winkel, Best Verkopende en meer op AliExpress.
They stock most common voltages.
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Is this at all better? How do I know when it’s good enough? I practiced, I’ve read some things, watched a lot of videos, but I’m still unsure. Sorry for the dumb questions. I just don’t wanna fuck it up lol. Thanks
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How hot is your soldering iron?
Looks to me as if they potentially could use some more heat.
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“How hot” was what i meant*
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I think it’s fine. It’s just a lil 60 watt
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watt ≠ heat
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It gets up to 925° F
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What remote is that?!?!
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DIGIMOTE by KamiBoards. Custom Brazilian Cumaru case by me. Also has a 16bit 3D hall effect sensor.
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Still being field tested by me and other beta testers. Stay tuned for official release. 
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There is definitely a different esk8 meta between Europe and America, and I often wonder why. They produce so much more stuff. It’s like they are 2 or 3 years ahead of us.
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Hey, I have programmed my ESC today and I realized that when I remove the loopkey, there is a huge inductive kickback. Definitely not healthy. The lights on the VESC keep switching on and off for a few seconds, and even the DIY davega that I have connected turns its screen on a couple of times just from the kickback. I definitely have to sort this out. The cause are the long battery wires. The ruler is 30cm for scale.
By laying everything out I realized how ridicoulosly long my wiring is. However, I actually need it this long because the ESC and the battery are in separate enclosures… For the third revision of the board I will try to figure out how to fit the ESC into the undertray enclosure too, but for now it’s not possible (my BMS is wayyyy too large, LLT bms). But, I still want to finish the board before needing to upgrade to a flexi BMS in order to make the ESC fit under the deck. As budget is tight, I want to prioritize getting a second motor over getting a flexi BMS, so at the earliest I can get a flexi BMS in like 3 months or so… I would miss most of the riding season if I didn’t finish the board with the parts I have now or with parts I can buy locally for cheap.
So, I can’t shorten the wires, but I know an option. A capacitor bank. But how much capacity do I actually need? How much capacitance can an XT90S loopkey reliably withstand (@b264 maybe you know it)? Does anyone have first hand experience with capacitor banks? How much does the actual capacitor’s specs matter? What kind of capacitors do I need if I go this route? Would any electrolytic capacitors be fine? How do I make the capacitor bank in a way that it can safely handle a lot of current? I am mainly concerned about the legs of the capacitors, those are usually so thin, don’t look like they would be happy taking 100 amps…
If I were to add a capacitor bank, would it be fine just after the ESC connector? Just so I don’t have to desolder the XT90 there or don’t have to shorten the wire.
Do I have any other options instead of making a capacitor bank?
A shitload; probably over 50mF or more, IDK. You don’t need to worry about it.
Please send a video of this, it might be fine (drag an .mp4 in here or use youtube)
But yes, long battery wires are bad. Hopefully you are running the ESC much under its rating, how much headroom do you have between battery voltage and ESC rating? 30% (10S on 60V)? 17% (12S on 60V)?
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