Yes. Just discharge bypass it. For that you can easily get a 10s 3amp charger on Amazon in the US which would charge that pack in about 2.5hrs.
NVM just saw you aren’t in the US. Not sure about what charger you can get.
Thanks guys!
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Should be fine, as long as u actually order the liion version instead of lifepo4 version. Daly have a problem of never writing which version of bms they list on some site. Always make sure u r buying the correct one that u need.
@xsynatic , where do u usually order charger from? This user is also from Germany, thought u might have some options before I suggest YZpower from aliexpress lol
I put the front trucks from my boosted v1 on. From my googling they are 50 degree 185mm caliber II.
I backed off all kingpins three full turns to get em super sloppy and put all my weight on one side and I’m just able to get them to bite.
Is this ok? It seems like they’d never turn this hard in normal riding.
I think with 220mm trucks I couldn’t make them bind at all.
It also looks like I could move the trucks forward 1cm - the trucks have an unused pair of holes that are 1cm back. It means drilling one pair of holes in the deck since the truck’s inside pair of holes would move forward by 1cm
I’m thinking of just skating it like this (DKP on the back RKP on the front) until I get new trucks is that a crazy idea?
The board is now about 1cm lower in the front but that doesnt seem like a problem.
I always put conversions in my text, but a metric bot would be amazing.
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Daly sells BMS than can be used for discharge too, up to 60A I think.
Check out this circuit for bypass configuration
And for charge port fuses, check out this resource:
Yeah looks like you’ll be okay. For anyone else reading, you can also do stuff like this to get the last couple millimeters of bind to go away. Remove the roadside bushings, stick griptape to the wheel, and remove the deck in the exact place where it’s causing an issue.
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That’s genius.
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Set screws holding the motor shaft came loose, what loctite do I use? I seem to have lost all of my loctite and jbweld so I might as well restock with the right ones
The version that’s on google play is crippled but I read on the comments on there that there’s a later version APK (3.1.1026) you can download from Support/Downloads – Overkill Solar
I tried it and it lets you set the AH capacity and see the remaining charge time, the individual cell voltages, and change a million things I don’t have the skillz to mess with so will definately not be touching.
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Yes I have multiple versions installed (for troubleshooting purposes) but 3.1.1026 is the one I’m currently using.
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When I first started 1026 it asked me for these two numbers and this is what I put in based on my board having 12s3p 40T.
Hopefully someone will tell me if that doesn’t look right.
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What do people use to clean threadlocker off their bolts before reapplying? I’ve been scraping it off with a screwdriver for a few bolts for half an hour now; surely there’s a better way? 
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Yeah that doesn’t quite look right, your nominal capacity should be 4Ah * 3P = 12Ah and then cycle capacity should be near 80% of that but you’ll know for sure after a couple cycles.
@rusins butane torch
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You’re telling me it burns off? 
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Just like carbon build-up on a banger, yes sir.
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Well I don’t know your cutoffs but your nominal should be 12ah not 144 
3 in parallel = 3x4000mah = 12000mah = 12ah
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Whoah alright. Glad I asked. Yeah it’s showing a much more reasonable remaining charge time now.
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I bought my board with a VX2 but they shipped a VX1 since they VX2 they got in for me was DOA.
@Evwan mentioned in another thread that VX2’s are buggy and have a history of injuring people.
He said get a Hoyt which I’m def considering and just telling my board builders don’t worry about sending me that VX2.
Wondering if the general consensus is that VX2 later versions are still crappy and dangerous or have the bugs been worked out?
Yes, but.
Yes, the threadlocker will burn off if heated enough.
But, be careful about heating bolts, because at the temperatures required to burn off the threadlocker, you can affect the heat-treat of the steel, thus significantly changing its strength characteristics.
Better to heat it until it softens and then use a steel bristle brush, or use a solvent instead. Acetone is good and easily available. Methylene chloride (aka DCM, dichloromethane) is even better, but harder to get and more nasty.
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