Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Maybe cutting through insulation if you then reinsulate it. But don’t accidentally cut any strands

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How do you do it normally?

Does it not ruin the thread when you then unbolt / rebolt them later?

Just remember that the light will be powered by the same voltage as your battery, so in reality you probably want a buck to step-down the variable voltage to a constant 12V or 5V for whatever light you choose :slight_smile:

Personally I’ve never used a light like that; battery charge meter is more than enough just to verify the BMS is fine.

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Ah yeah i forgot to add it to the diagram! Thx

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What is likely to be the max amp draw of a Version 1 Boosted board?
It uses a 12s1p LiFePO4 battery (equivalent voltage of a 10s1p regular cells).
I see on the datasheet for the A123 ANR26650M1-b “Max discharge current (10s) 120A” but I don’t imagine the board would actually draw that much?
I have .15 10mm nickel strip but looking at Conductor Current Ratings [SRO] I would have to make it five layers thick to support 120A.

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MBS Matrix II trucks and Rockstar II wheels are a very popular combo around here, and have a ton of mounts available for them, as well as several gear drives.

They use urethane shock blocks instead of springs. Some people like that more, some people prefer springs. Kind of hard to know until you have tried both side by side. My first time stepping on channel trucks I was able to try shock blocks and springs back to back, and so i was able to very quickly decide that I prefer shock blocks.

How do you use your build? If it’s used primarily on the road, then the LaCroix Hypertrucks kit includes trucks, mounts, wheels, pulleys, belts, hardware, etc. All you need is motors and motor pulleys. The Hypertrucks are bulky and heavy compared to the Matrix II’s, but they are unmatched when it comes to ride quality on the road.

This is why I asked how you will be using your build in my last post, because that is going to determine what kind of drivetrain you need.

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Can anyone explain to me what carrier frequency and the humming sound it makes are? As I understand it, the carrier frequency is what dictates the length of each block of time within which the duty cycle signifies for what amount of that time the esc is providing power. Hopefully that makes sense.

E: in the context of bldc esc s

My shooting-from-the-hip rough guess is 25 - 35A battery max

But I don’t know at all. If you assume 50A battery max, you’ll probably be fine.

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Just curious, would it make sense to use 2 different Vescs in one build? Could it cause any issue?

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I believe it’s frowned upon to mix v4 and v6 VESC HW otherwise you should be alright, I don’t suggest it though.

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I mean let’s say I mix a TBesc 4.12 and a FSESC 4.12

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That’s no problem, they should actually be identical since theyre clones of Benjamin’s reference 4.10.

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If you’re using CANBUS, they all need to be on the same firmware version.

Other than that, it really doesn’t matter a whole lot.

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This is what I expected. Ty!

Not if you deburr/chamfer the ends.

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Have a Trampa Wand hooked to a Stormcore. The Stormcore app seems to report accurate speeds when it records a ride. But the Wand overestimates the speed severely. Is there someplace in Vesc Tool where I can tell the Wand my gear ratio and wheel size so this is accurately reported?

In the “Additional Info” tab under “Motor Settings”

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I wanna bypass a backfire battery and a metro battery. Is there anything i need to know before i do a discharge bypass for my bms besides redirecting the negative wire straight to the esc, and maybe adding a loop key and fuse? First time messing with batteries.

So I bought this board the other day:

…but I’m really not digging these double-kingpin trucks. They feel squirrely whenever I speed up.
And just now I went a bit too fast for my skill level on these and wiped out and got kinda scratched up. I think I’m kinda done with DKP for now.
I thought it would just be matter of getting used to them, but now I think I’d like to switch to reverse-kingpin like my Boosted had. I don’t mind giving up the maneuverability of DKP - I can maybe keep the DKPs for if I want to do some slower trail cruising and use RKP for the street.
@Evwan mentioned @Boardnamics has some quality stuff but said post in this thread to get advice.
I notice boardnamics also sells gear drives which might be kinda wild to switch to at the same time.
But Evwan said post in this thread to get advice so what would people recommend for me?
The Demon’s hangers right now are about 9" between the insides of the wheels - I’d like to stick with that if possible.
I have some big pneumies (which I haven’t actually tried yet) so I’m thinking of leaving the existing trucks, motor mounts and belt drive with the pneumies on and getting new RKPs with new motor mounts and either belt or gear drive to put the TB110s on.
Open to all suggestions.

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