That’s actually kinda cool, how did you do that? Screen record, take screenshots, and then turn opacity to like 50 or something?
I would think maybe you’ve got a couple bad cell connections maybe, hard to say without seeing the pack itself
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almost, i did screenshots on my phone and imported them as layers into gimp, there change the layer mode to “difference”… if you end up with uneven amount of layers the image colors will be inverted tho - which is fixed by inverting or creating a new layer from visible…
the pack is actually made from nese modules, and i made sure all the tabs are screwed in tightly with thread-locker 
and i have not found any reports of loose compression pads with nese, so im really baffled as what to do - i will tripple check the connections for now i guess
the cells themselves are from fogstar, so i would assume they are of good quality
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Hi everyone! I just wanted to get some expert opinions on my first diy build components. I already have a subsonic century 40 board that I will be using. My goal is about 15-20 mile distance, higher torque and top speed (around50km/h max). I have lots of hills around me. The parts I was thinking of using are:
TB 2x 6380 190kv motors
TB V7 motor mounts (16T/40T pulleys)
TB 218mm trucks
TB 110mm 72A wheels
12S4P molicel 21700 battery pack with xt90 connector
Stormcore 60D vesc
Hoyt remote
Debating making my own vs eboosted enclosure for my board. Prefer not to make it myself to be truthful.
I would like to include a battery capacity meter. Do these just plug into the vesc?
A few general questions I had as well is regarding my motor. Is my current setup too intense? Would a 6374 motor suffice? Also are TB motors fairly comparable in quality to flipsky? I’ve read a lot on these threads and some threads are quite old. Any up to date info would be great. Presently I ride an evolve GTR which is my benchmark for performance.
Any thoughts and expert opinions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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making ur own might take a few trial and error to get it just right, not saying that u shouldn’t do that, but also worth checking out Alan’s enclosure, they are nice af
get metr CAN, u will have everything for wireless connectivity
ftfy 
this is DIY world, a powerful single drive can probably outperform evolve if u know how to spec it correctly (im curious if @b264’s super single can beat evolve)
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Thanks! Do you have a link to “metr can”? Not exactly sure what you mean.
I just mention the GTR because it’s all I know for personal experience…hence benchmark performance for me.
ask and you shall receive: Metr Pro CAN [available to order]
its also worth getting the SD card shield + GPS dongle thingy while u r at it, who doesn’t love automatic logging
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Yes, it will smoke an Evolve like a blunt
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Thank you sir! So this will help me see my battery capacity and log rides without using my phone? I’ve never seen or heard of one of these.
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Haha! Good to know.
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Yes, and much much more u can do with it. Telemetry and logging is just the very basic stuff it can do. Go check it out
oh boy, I sounds like a salesperson
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Will do for sure! Thanks again.
What do you think of my motor choices. Also what do you think of TB vs flipsky motors?
I do not have TB motors to compare, but I do have the flipsky 6374 190kv BH motors. All I can say is, they are fine, but I have to say, I don’t run anything anywhere close to their limit, so I run into way less issues that others might encounter
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Bullbars for eMTB - has anyone got some hands-on experience as to how they are an essential extra for a board?
First eMTB. Using a Stormcore 60D for the first time, with two 6380 190kv TB motors. Powered by two Tattu 14000mAh 6s 25C lipos in series. Unsure of the ideal motor/battery currents to use in Vesc Tool. On the screen where you enter this (shown below), is this just for ONE motor? I’m using XT90 to connect battery to vesc so I assume I need to keep ‘battery current max’ beneath 45A (if this setting is for only one motor) so that I don’t exceed 90A total?
That lipo can output 350Amps, but if you want to keep it safe, you can put it at 50 amps per side. The motor amps can go higher if you want it to.
And yes, that shows only one side, which is why you switch to the canBus side as well.
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Turn “absolute maximum current” up as high as it will go (250A IIRC). That’s the point at which the ESC will throw errors, so you don’t want that set at all close to your normal operating conditions.
Also you can set your motor current much more aggressively than 45A. Motor current is not a direct 1:1 ratio to battery current, and it’s not uncommon to have the motor current be twice the battery current (80-90A). This will greatly improve torque and acceleration at low-to-medium speeds.
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I’ve found that even having the motor current maximum up to 5 or 6 times the battery current maximum dramatically increases the torquefeel and I recommend maximizing motor max regardless of how low your battery max is, up to the practical limits of your hardware. In fact, the lower your battery current is, the higher even you can go with motor max because the maximums are achieved for increasingly brief periods
An example of this would be motor max/min 160A/-70A and battery max/min 30A/-20A
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Does anyone have a 3d file of the focbox unity bottom heatsink? @Fosterqc ?
E: might’ve found something
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Does anyone know where I can get a extension cable for the hall sensor cable? I’m based in Europe!
