all this is super helpful, thanks everyone
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wait but i thought the bigger pack has a higher proportion of current out than the smaller pack and thats how they stay at same voltage? or does both happen at the same time but the 8p charging the 2p part is at a smaller scale?
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Think of it like this. You’ve got two buckets, piped into one valve, emptying into one bigger bucket.
When you open the valve, both buckets start to empty, but since they’re plumbed together, neither one will empty faster than the other, despite being different sizes.
But if you have different size pipes, then you can end up with a situation where one gets ahead of the other, than when you close the valve, they equalize again. That’s uneven current sharing, which is to be avoided.
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Yes. It still happens, but because the cells are RIGHT next to eachother, sharing the same nickel strip, the effect is much diminished.
For the exact same cells in the exact same overall layout, it is much less bad for the cells for them to all be in one big combined pack, rather than split into two.
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ok i see thanks.
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yes, but when u account for the discharging for vesc use and at the same time discharging to charge the 2p pack, u can drain more than what u intend to from the 8p pack.
everything happens at the same time without delay, the moment u drain the 2p pack to have a voltage lower than the 8p pack, the 8p pack will start to charge it
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This made sense to me. I’m much of a visual learner so thanks for this.
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How do you true a wheel? I’ve got two Rockstars and T3s with different problems on each one, and I’m not really sure how to tackle either of them. They’re rideable, but they vibrate a ton on the bench and probably are causing some extra wear.
One hub spins true, but the tire wobbles side to side. I’ve tried reseating the tire, but it still wobbles and is pretty wonky. Did I get a bad tire?
The other one seems to wobble from the bearing seat. The entire wheel with the hub wobbles a bit when attached to the axle, causing the drivetrain to go wub wub wub as it goes since the sprocket strays out of line and back. The bearings are properly seated, and I’ve even put a spacer inside so I can crank it down all the way, but it still wobbles. How can I mitigate this?
Would DKPs be considered RKPs or TKPs or nothing if you took the middle part out?
Here’s some pictures for reference.
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TKP
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Nope; always wondered myself.
Hmmmm where’s my protractor from high school when I need it.
Contemplating running these trucks as TKP to take away some wobbles the DKPs are giving my son
To fix the wobbles, run DKP in the front and RKP in the rear.
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Could you run TKP in the rear instead of RKP so I don’t have to replace the whole truck?
Edit: TKP just turns less easy then RKP right?
No.
TKP and DKP have non-linear turn-to-lean ratios. So, the more you lean, the more the lean affects the turn.
RKP are linear, the turn angle is directly proportional to the lean angle. when you have no rake
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This is why I’ll have my range extender after my antispark, so I can just shut my other battery off and not have to worry. I’ll use an xt90s to prevent sparks too.
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OT but also noob:
Thought I remembered a thread where someone wrote about blocking all ads on smartphone - can’t find it no more. Did I remind it being in the wrong forum?
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@xsynatic wrote this thread:
https://forum.esk8.news/t/make-your-life-ad-free-for-free/51130/22
its in a restricted section of the forum, you have to be a level 3 member (aka “regular”)
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