Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

I wouldn’t dispute after 4 days but if they aren’t communicating it’s worse. You can see on their profile if they’ve been online or not. Some folks just are really busy IRL

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Yeah planning on waiting, just wanted added input. Just weird to stop messaging after saying they’d ship is all.

When it comes to shipping, do note it takes about a week or less/more depending. I waited about 2 weeks for kaly to send me their barrels, to where I had to contact them and found out they were in backorder due to an issue with the barrels.

It was unfortunate, but I got my payment back.

You can replace the motors just fine since they’re usually made the same way with the 4 screws on the motors. It depends on the motor mount however… if its too thick, you’ll notice that the pulley won’t fit right (innuendo incoming). The difference between 6374 and 6380 is power. 74mm vs 80mm. The 80 will have more power in it.

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Quick question. Does anybody know why when I touch 2 out of the 3 wires together on a motor it gets really hard to turn? When none of the wires are touching it spins like it should. And of course I don’t have any power supply connected while doing this, it’s hand-spun.

Edit: discovered this totally by accident thinking I needed a new motor.

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Check out this

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I did read that, and great post by the way, I’m just trying to figure out why it happens. I’m guessing it might have something to do with the motor also acting as a generator and trying to produce power and it being fed back into it when the wires are connected?

Motors have the capability of generating energy on their own, so it is possible that touching two phases together while moving the motor is generating magnetic energy and becomes hard to turn. It’s basically being a hand cranked charger.

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Yes, that’s exactly why. The motor is generating power when you spin it. And then, by shorting them out, you are immediately burning off all of that energy as heat in the wires. So the more you spin it, the hotter you make the wires.

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Hai,

there is a way to set cutoff strenght? I barely feel when it starts to cutoff start, want it much stronger. Any ideas? Didn’t found the answer.

10s
start 36v
end 32v

Narrow the gap between the numbers. Raise the lower number

But it will cut me earlier, before I want to.

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Right now there is not a way to adjust the cutoff curve in VESC.

It’s a good idea for a future feature though.

You’ve got my gears turning thinking about it.

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No. Although, I’m not 100% sure why your cut off is 36v. Preference maybe? I usually put mine to where my battery can be safely discharged to and then give it +3v.

Noob here, trying to understand anti spark and loop keys. If I’m using a Xenith, which I believe has a built in anti spark switch, do I still need a loop key?

If the anti-spark system in the esc doesn’t break like it does on flipsky’s, no. If you want to safely turn on your esc without worrying whether the anti-spark system will break or not, use a loop key.

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If the xenith AS doesn’t break, then it’s nothing wrong to have loopkey install. But when the AS break, then u r still safe because u have loopkey to turn it off

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You can account for sag and set cutoffs at 28/29v and 33v. Just don’t discharge the board until it refuses to even move

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Don’t need one, but if you have plenty of space available it doesn’t hurt to have it built in already. Integrated antisparks tend to fail over time and the loopkey is a good backup option.
You can either use that permanently as the switch or use it as a backup until you fix/replace the switch

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Maybe someone has experienced this before, I had a nickle strip break. What would be the best way to go about fixing it?