The holder isnt great but this is
1 Like
Alright. So my Unity’s power switch has started acting weird.
When I go to shut it off, the switch light goes off, but the ESC still gets power, and then the light turns back on automatically.
And the power comes on even when the switch is unplugged
Perhaps it has to do with the fact that my packs charged to max voltage. 12s at 50.4v. Could that be the cause?
Input?
The anti spark died.
Now you need to use a loookey.
3 Likes
Thay don’t that’s why there are separate this is because of duty cycle
Probably hall sensors depends on your motor sensors
Fixable? I can do a loop key if I absolutely have to
Does it happen after exactly 10 seconds?
Your Unity has a blown antispark. Use a loopkey or discrete antispark solution.
1 Like
What do you mean by "discrete antispark solution
Yep, pull test is always good. I usually have to turn up my welder to get good nickel->nickel welds, as nickel has much lower resistance than steel (what the cell can is made of).
1 Like
The “speed modes” on the Hoyt Puck are simply limiting the output frequency of the PWM (aka PPM) signal. So if unrestricted (aka “full speed” or speed mode 3) is 1.2ms to 1.8ms, the first speed mode might restrict that to 1.4ms to 1.6ms.
Because of this restricted travel, your VESC gets a much more moderate input than it’s expecting, and therefore delivers much lower torque/duty cycle to your motors. That lower duty cycle might not be enough to actually get you moving without a kick push, as you have discovered.
2 Likes
Such as the Flipsky Antispark, the Haggyboard Antispark, a Maytech Antispark, etc. They are stand-alone units that you wire in line between your battery and your ESC.
But honestly I would just say go with a loopkey 
1 Like
No clue, but at a glance it doesnt look like it has anywhere near enough tip angle for channel truck.
5 Likes
I’m pretty sure I’m going to do loopkey. Just going to be tough to fit it in my ESC enclosure
1 Like
If you have a separate ESC enclosure, you can simply put the XT90S in line between your battery and ESC.
i.e. cut these battery wires (NOT AT THE SAME TIME) and solder in an XT90S female on the battery side and male on the ESC side. Then you can simply plug and unplug the battery from your ESC. Easy peasy.
If you do it this way, you may want to re-route the battery wires over your binding rather than through the deck channel (assuming we are talking about the board in your profile pic).
1 Like
How do I fix that? Because on other Chinese boards, their first modes actually starts up better than the hoyt. It’s kinda embarrassing where you can’t have the torque on start up. The speed is great as mentioned, but it needs a boost.
1 Like
You’re talking about the difference between limiting current and limiting speed. Current is what you want to feel.
On VESCs you can set current with two different limits, motor and battery, and the “motor current” gives you more of what you’re looking for. But limiting the pulsewidths/throttle_throw via speed modes on the remote will not allow you to access these higher values, as it’s limiting current.
Ideally, you want to limit speed and not pulsewidths.
TL;DR: you’re limiting the wrong thing
6 Likes
Its more on initial current and not just speed. The speed should be limited by the mode you chose by the pulse of course, but what I meant is something like this:
This is on speed mode 1.
1 Like
What is your throttle curve set to?
1 Like
