How could I go about creating a 3d model that mirrors the curvature of a deck? Is there another way (i feel like there is a way with math) to find the curvature without having a contour gauge and plotting points on a grid to get the rough curve?
Get a stiff flat material like cardboard or wood, hold it perpendicular to the deck, and trace the deck profile onto it with a pencil laying on its side on the deck. That should get you an outline of the contour, which you can then take a picture of and trace again in CAD.
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What is a good height to aim for from the bottom of the enclosure to the ground?
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can i replace 6900 (22x10x6) bearing with 608 (22x8x7) bearing in a pulley that uses 2 bearing each side? im 100% sure that the bearing seat won’t be deep enough for 7mm width unless i lathe it, i just need to know if it is workable in that way, i won’t be running them in high speed or anything, will be sub 25km/h speed for its lifetime
@b264 maybe u know?
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When I connect R+ to battery positive and R- to battery negative there is a pretty large spark every time. It is a 13s pack charged to 49v. What am I doing wrong?
Find a speedbump (speedhump) and roll your board over it (without standing on it)
If it comes within 5mm of it, it’s too low. Any higher than 15mm, is too high. 
So what I’m saying is that it totally depends on wheelbase, longer wheelbase needs more clearance. But also, it depends on WHERE between the trucks you’re referring to. You need an arc of clearance. If it’s right next to the front or rear trucks, it can be closer to the ground. In the middle is where you need more clearance. And that’s assuming no flex. The arc needs to be exaggerated if the deck flexes.
When you roll over obstacles, curbs, and rough terrain, the further you are from the truck, the more clearance you need. So the longer the wheelbase, the more overall clearance you need if the bottom is flat.
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Yes you can do that. Just make sure to adjust the spacers accordingly for the 1mm thicker bearing.
I wouldn’t mess with the bearing seat
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the pulley got no spacer between the 2 bearings, and i will double check if it will cause issue when i slide the wheel over the spokes over the puley, might need a washer there i think. thanks brian
You get 2mm more on each side, so one bearing on each side will stick out. I don’t see any issue with this as long as everything is still secure so i say gun it just like before
Also might work with 1 bearing each side?
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So the sensor cable and the extension have both 6 pins but the sensor cable is to small and the extension is to big to fit into the ESC.
Great explanation, thank you!
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Measure the distance between two side by side pins in the sensor plug WHILE THE BATTTERY ISN’T CONNECTED, it could be jst ph 1.5 instead of 2.0 like other brand.
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What would be a good material to make a protection layer for my mounts?
When i come off curbs, sidewalks, whatever, it’s usually the geardrives shell or the motors that take the hit and get scraped. I want to add a layer to hit the curb, not shatter, and slide off relatively easily
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the distance between 2 pins side by side is 1mm
0,95mm to be accurate
What’s going on here?
Can you take a picture with the connector over the plug it’s supposed to go in? Like, pin for pin allignment and all
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lol? Does ph connector even go down to 1? I know 1.25 exist as makerx uses them, but 1mm?
I have an Apollo Explorer (Zero 10) electric scooter (52v 1,000 watt nominal motor scooter) that I’m modifying with a RION Curve throttle (its a brand new and unique scooter thumb throttle that lets you control the throttle and electronic braking from a single wheel). The RION Curve requires a VESC speed controller and I’ve decided that the MAKERX GO-FOC HI100 75V looks like it will be suitable for my needs. I have a few noob questions:
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Is the MAKERX GO-FOC HI100 75V considered a quality product by most people? Basically is there any reason why I shouldn’t buy this vs something else? It can handle significantly more power than I will need (I prefer it this way), so I’m not worried about that aspect.
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Does the MAKERX GO-FOC HI100 75V include the small plugs and wires that go into each of its ports (the PPM, SWD, CAN, HALL, and COMM ports)? If not, where can I buy those connectors? Example: the hall sensor connector for my scooter uses a very different connector (I’ve got the wiring figured out I just need the connector).
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I’m going to buy the MAKERX Bluetooth Module. Does it include the wires and connectors I need to plug it to the controller?
i don’t know about question 1 since i have no experience with the hv esc, but for question 2, makerx is the only brand known to provide all the connector with pigtail, so u don’t need to worry about mismatch connector type, if u can do a little bit of soldering.
for question 3, it should, makerx is good at providing all the damn wires 
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I really doubt the efficiency gain from that would be greater than the efficiency losses of a less-torque gear ratio.
I’m the wrong person to ask about that stuff, cus I dont ride in traffic and I dont go on group rides lol. I usually gear my boards to top out at 35mph because that’s faster than I like to go.
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