would acetone or a soldering iron work?
or a hair dryer? i dont have a heat gun or blow torch
1 Like
Try the soldering iron, those drives look like they are set up perfectly tho, why you messing with them?
1 Like
Who made the battery, and do you have photos of the series connections?
That would determine which wire sizes I chose.
1 Like
hummie deck means the motors hit the enclosure unless i adjust
might be able to just adjust the angle inside but not sure if enough
In that case, depending on how the 6P P42A battery is made, and assuming 4 wheel drive, (all of this is relevant)
In the maximum I would use 12AWG to each ESC (10AWG to each pair of ESCs / or to each dual ESC), and 12AWG for the phase wiring.
In the minimum, I would use 14 AWG to each ESC (12AWG to each pair of ESCs / or to each dual ESC) and 12AWG or 14AWG for the phase wiring. In a 4WD configuration you can probably easily slide by with less, but I just personally wouldn’t do less.
For your battery series connections, in the maximum, I’d use triple 12AWG and in the minimum I’d use triple 16AWG.
You can also get by just fine by using 12AWG for everything, simplifying your purchasing greatly, by doubling it up on the battery series connections and doing 12AWG everywhere.
3 Likes
Thanks @b264, I actually bought 2m of 8AWG in the end just to cover myself said up to 150A. So everything directly used in the battery will be 8AWG which will feed to the BMS form there everything else will be 12 AWG.
Basically looking to mimic Pavels but just a normal stack rather than slanted as my enclosure will be quite tight. Being 540mm long with 2x unity’s at each end and battery in the middle.
Thanks, tried that, no dice. When I plugged it in again today, it’s now showing as one of the firmware is out of date, even though nothing changed? I enabled RTApp, but still no data. The remote screen shows the data properly though. I then tried using the VESC android app, but the Bluetooth pairing keeps on getting rejected by the ESC. The remote and status light shows the BLE module connected to ESC B, so I know it’s not idle.
Edit: Tried plugging the USB cable onto the other side, now there’s no out of date message? Still no data, but at least it lets me get to the selection screen.
1 Like
What’s the best way to cut motor shafts? I’m thinking of using a vice and a dremel with a cutting wheel, but might use a hacksaw because idk if the vice I have will be good enough. Anyone got any other suggestions?
1 Like
I used a thin cut-off wheel on a 4" grinder. Dremel will achieve the same outcome.
Tape off your motors nicely so metal doesn’t go inside.
4 Likes
Thanks!
1 Like
I recommend an abrasive and not a hacksaw. The shafts are typically case-hardened.
Also wrap and protect the motor so metal dust doesn’t get inside.
3 Likes
hey guys, my unity switch broke because of some water ingress,
what are the options to fix or replace it? should i just try to source a new one in EU ?
1 Like
Hi,
Has anyone managed to buy the power switch and LCD battery percentage indicator from metro board X or have something similair I couldn’t see the product on there website only the complete board?
I know 3D servisas has the lsd but would like one with the power button too like the metro board X
2 Likes
Guys, i need ideas on how to solve this.
I’m printing this flashlight cover to not blind others but i want to slice it up so i can flip up the cover to have the full beam again. No idea how to build a hinge on that. The diameter of the ring is 46mm so it would have to be quite small so it’s no that bulky overall.
stock:
this would be a full tilt back
if a 180 is not possible maybe just a bit
1 Like
can you not use a literal hinge?
one of the ones which locks in place?
i looked online and you can get some pretty small ones for like £2
Why not just turn the entire thing 180 degrees when you’re not using it so the flap is on the bottom? It’s not like you’re going to need the illumination a foot in front of you, and that’s one less moving part.
2 Likes
because i like to use every bit of light i have available ^^ I have the mount on my older flashlight and i lose quite a bit of light by just turning it around, thats why i want to maximise it. The flashlight isn’t mounted to anything so theres no stress on the parts.
1 Like
What about instead of a hinge, you do a telescoping/sliding flap that you just move forward or back on the flashlight body? Or do one of those rotating arm thingies, where you can get better mounting points for the hinges.
1 Like
Make it a 2 part. Mount + threaded cover.?
2 Likes