Fair enough.
I dont disagree at all, but will point out that a hub separate to the wheel definitely has some legitimacy. You dont see bearing pressed into automotive vehicle wheels for a reason.
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I don’t follow
He worded that faulty. He meant that car wheels don’t have the bearings integrated into them like skateboard wheels. They instead have the hub assembly that’s outside of the wheel like what you see with the finality AT set from 3d and SRB airless wheels. The bearings are integrated into the axle and the hub for the wheel has no bearings.
This is just my interpretation of what he said, I could be mistaken.
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Not really, the confusion happens because in esk8 the hub(carrier of bearings) is with in the wheel/rim. We’re both not wrong here. So we call them hubs, which a mechanic would be confused by.
Always thought it was weird we call them hubs when my understanding comes from mechanical work, which im not a mechanic until my vehicles break down.
Anyway, the point stands thats its a better system so i don’t blame 3ds/moestooge for going that route instead of sticking with esk8 standards.
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38/11 dimension is like 83mm.
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Can you show pictures of that?
Is it equally as easy to replace as the old one?
Will we be able to print our own again?
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This the new pad, as easy to replace as the old one.
Each order will be included 4, will last for looooong time 
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Yup. This.
And if your in IT hub is just a box full of
Ports for cables to plug into 
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hello friend
any update on urethane drives? 
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Since you’re not selling the gen. 4 with trampa 19,5mm clamps, is it possible to bolt on the clamps you sell separately or is there another known workaround to make your drives fit trampa channel trucks? Thank you.
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I’m also gonna chime in here and voice my interest for a urethane sized 4GS (assuming it’s able to achieve a ratio of 3:1 or higher 
)
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Processing: 20230609_152403.jpg…
I got them already, haven’t update it on website yet, you could order with any clamp and leave note trampa clamps.
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The image didn’t upload.
Also:
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Same problem here, I thought about disassembling the motor and putting the shaft on a lathe to have the wider part thinned down as far as possible.
Cool, thank you!
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If you’re lazy, you could also just hook up the motor, cut a strip of sandpaper and run it up. Not the cleanest solution, but its definitely faster than pulling it apart to throw on a lathe.
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Its pretty difficult to keep dust out of the bearings while youre spinning the motor.
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