NEW MOTOR MOUNT DESIGN

Yikes!

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better put a larger radius on one end first

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takes buying second hand/used to a whole new meaning :rofl:

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Oh god please no, I know it’s on the rear of the board, but I prefer to only take my board on trusted dirt roads

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Is that their official title? Is there an Assistant Trusted Dirt Road?

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That’s definitely not the only way to avoid skipping

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What’s the largest motor it will accept?

Used something like this in my 3D printed VESC enclosure. Nice work. :+1:t4:

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@PedroMcJimenez Regarding the hanger, I wanted one that would be a little more beefy, and at the length I wanted,which for me, was 236mm long. The cross section is 22mm square, then necks down to 18.5mm square for mounting the clamps. The motor mounts then butt up to the 22mm portion. All of this insures (along with the motor mounts being precision machined) that the hanger axel and motor axel are parallel. This is paramount for a system to run well. It will prevent premature belt wear, belt from cavotating back and forth, belt skipping, and increase bearing life. All of this is dependent on all components being machined perfectly. I know this sounds like overkill, but a little extra precision and good design = less down down time and less money spent replacing other parts…
Maybe I digressed from the actual hanger, but these are critical issues that I see need to be addressed in esk8.
I guess I should mention that I design and build automated machinery (most of the time) and utilize timing belts for part transfer and positioning.
Back to the hanger, I made it to fit a caliber 2 base. On one of my caliber bases, the king pin is severely off centered which makes the hanger tilt to one side. Not great, so I’m currently making a base for that. It will include motor cable management. If anyone is interested in the hanger/base, let me and or @RideNebula know. The hanger length of 236mm that I made is for my build, any other popular lengths could be considered!!!

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@OleksiiF. Are you using machined pulleys or printed pulleys? That makes a difference

@OleksiiF. Maximum tooth engagement is critical. Meaning, If the pulley is not great, it might skip.

I really like this drive kit. Lots of people like belts, lots of people love drag handles.

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FTFY :kissing_heart:

I kid, these mounts look pretty sweet.

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@longhairedboy. Thanks for the reply bro! I’m. Planning on making a small production run for the mounts next week!!

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I use printed wheel pulley. I got your point, its valid, probably. but as these motor mount does not contain wheel pulleys, this means customer may use printed as well and he will require bearings

So if you are going to sell what would the price range be?

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“3D printed” can mean anything from the high quality nylon sintered shit you get from Shapeways that will last you for years all the way down to the shitty filament squirted delamination pulleys that last about an hour under load.

I have nylon sintered pulleys that have lasted me forever, i’ve even got 36T ones jammed in a set of janux wheels on 6" tires that outlasted the motor pulleys (which i guess isn’t hard to do depending on where you got the motor pulleys) Eventually the belts wear the teeth sharp but that happens on aluminum eventually too.

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They’re not all bad. The skill of the person that printed them matters a lot, printing settings make all the difference in the world.

I had a set of regular ABS ones that only lasted 50 miles, back in 2018, but the set I’m running on my Eovan wheels is at 100 miles already and no signs of wear. Like, oddly low. It does matter that these are 50T pulleys on an idler mount though, so tooth engagement is very high. They’re a test print out of PLA+, but I intend to print them out of nylon. I expect those to easily last hundreds of miles.

I’ll @ you when I post some pics of the wear so far just so you can get an idea of what’s possible. I’m not the hardest rider in the world but I’ve been riding pretty hard including some offroad

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There’s definitely a wide range of quality. All the ones I’ve used in my builds are 36T or less, but i have some available at 38T.

These are them: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/long-haired-boy-fine-electric-skateboards

shapeways is expensive though. But for one off customs, they’re a bargain compared to mold fees.

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Ah yeah sintered nylon is probably the only thing that can hold up to having the pins be part of the print. My 3D printed ones for Kegel were screw-on. The Eovan one currently uses the metal interface piece from their own pulley. I intend to update it though so it can be fully 3D printed

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