40 amp motor, -40 motor min
13 amp batt max, -6 amps batt min
That’s the settings for each vesc. This will pull 26 total from the battery maximum
But again, we’ve isolated a problem. I highly suggest you go to a PC and do the setup from scratch.
What remote are you using
Awesome, thank you!
using this remote:
I don’t think the remote is the problem. That remote worked fine for all of my previous builds just fine.
What about absolute maximum current?
How did you map PPM from the remote?
You could’ve been seeing 5mph earlier because the mapping for the remote is way off.
Again, go to the computer vesc app and start from scratch
The m26 cells. Keep your expectations low for this. I would recommend based on this a max discharge from this pack of 28 amps. And it’s still gonna sag like crazy.
It’s basically got zero use for diy esk8. It Would be best paired with a hobbywing esc as they draw a max of around 18 amps.
I recommend trying to get rid of it while you potentially can. Not only are the cells crappy, there’s Definitely concerns about the quality of the components and the safety of the assembly.
Vesc tool
40 motor max
-40 motor min
Leave abs max current alone
Batt max 13
Batt min -6
Set the voltage cutoff to 10S defaults. Run motor detection for foc. Go to the APP section and enable PPM and go through PPM mapping.
If you don’t know how to do that part there are several videos or some of us could help
I’m familiar with all of that. I know that this must seem like I am total noob to this but I am not. I have successfully built three builds before this.
I made a stupid call and got suckered into thinking I had found a good deal but it winded up being a shitty battery. Thought because they are LG batteries that they would be legit. Obviously I was wrong.
Samsung lg etc all make a range of batteries. So there’s good and there’s bad for every brand. Some optimized for capacity, some for output. Some are just older generations that just don’t compare with what’s available now
If you’re making 5000 batteries for a scooter that pulls 10A max to a single hub wheel, you don’t need to spend extra on the best cells when a 2p version of the $2/ea cells will do the job.
You can see from the discharge charts above that the closer you get to 10A per cell the worse these will perform. Stick to 2wd for this battery. Somewhere around 25 amps total battery is safe, but it’s gonna feel like a 10S2P 30q pack.
They probably are legit LG cells. The problem is, saying “LG batteries” is like saying “Nissan car”. Could be a GT-R, or a Versa. Nissan makes supercars, and they also make shitboxes. You just got LG Versa cells, not LG GT-R cells. Make sure you know exactly what model of cells you’re getting, not just a brand.
We have a winner!
Thank you for the suggested settings. Although the acceleration is a joke and top speed, Christ I don’t even want talk about that, it’s non-existent. A turtle could outrun me. It does cutout if I push the throttle to the stop and go up any kind of incline but it does much better than before.
In case anyone new to esk8 is reading this and wondering, DO NOT FUCK AROUND WHEN YOU CHOOSE YOUR BATTERY!
A cheap battery won’t just not last a while or give a short life expectancy, it might not work AT ALL. There is no cheap out, or “good deal” out there. If you pay less, you get way less. No matter how the description is worded.
You said this was Amazon. Why don’t you just clean it up and return it? Its free return and you’ll get your money back in full. No point in keeping a battery you’ll toss into storage
I can’t. Typically, and this is the first time I have come across this, there is a comment below the item in your order history that says something like: Return eligible until 1/1/01 or whatever, or return window has closed.
There is no comment where this should be stated for the battery. I may try to contact the seller and say look dude, take back your unused battery (which it is, it doesn’t even have a football fields worth of use out of it), or get a review that will ensure you never sell another one again. I doubt it will work but at least no one will buy his shitty battery again.
That’s bullshit bro, sorry to hear that. If you need a great priced battery, I will gladly take that into my hands and recommend you from a list of known reputable battery builders. I refuse to build batteries ever again
I have a button on all my items
It’s worth a shot to try and return it. At a minimum, confirm the cell type, BMS parameters and cutoffs.
Reduce amps until you stop seeing cutoffs. 10-12 per side might be needed. Pathetic for a 4p battery
Very true, don’t buy crap batteries.
This goes back to two quotes everyone should know
Typically, you get what you pay for
Most importantly, the poor man buys twice - once when he scores a deal or saves a few bucks going off brand, again when he buys the quality item he actually needed.
Experience is the only thing that gives a builder the knowledge to know what and where he can skimp a little and they’re very very minor items.
This isn’t just batteries. For esk8, it’s everything. From batteries to bearings, quality makes a noticeable and quantifiable difference.
This is why I build every component of my boards that I can so I know exactly what’s going in them.
Yup, I have that too. But not on this product item.
Think I’ll give it a shot reaching out to amazon, nothing to loose if they say no.
Are you prime?
This is also why I tell people to get a credit card. If you pay your balance monthly like a charm card, there’s no interest. On top of that, some cards like my Amex have purchase protection. I get $1000 a year worth of items I can call and say “hey this doesn’t work and they won’t let me return it” and no questions asked it goes away.
That may not apply to this situation. But neither does an amazon return. (Someone’s taking the loss for consumer mistake regardless). In my opinion, it should be the seller. They list these knowing people will make mistakes or be disappointed at times. But that’s not on them and having a quick no return window helps.
I would make sure to tell amazon you’ve been troubleshooting problems with an expert since before the window closed for returns. It was only now that you confirmed the battery to be the source of the problem
They likely build these to order which is why they don’t take returns. And it’s a battery.
If it’s disconnecting still below 30-35 amps total draw you could definitely argue it’s not performing to spec, since that’s they’re max listed current.
Nice. More great advice. I never thought of that (I’m being serious, not sarcastic).
As well as a good point, if not the truth. And I set the specs as you suggested, so that is for sure below the specifications, yes? 13 x 2 = 26 which is less than 30 continuous, right, unless my math is wrong…
Yes, prime member.
Then make sure that you complain. Sounds dumb, but put it this way. You’re paying to be satisfied with Amazon’s services. Usually, employees will do everything they can to record you say “thankyou this was great” at the end of the phone call
@bwahl602 - your username has 602 in it. You don’t happen to be from the Phoenix area do you (that’s the area code for metro PHX)?
