New build won't go over 5mph

It very well could have been

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That’s Samsung 25R, or sometimes the fake chinese 25Rs. What was the original source of the pack?

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I think he purchased it off Amazon and iirc 25R is the most common battery used in these situations

There is a factory producing 10S4P Chinese 25Rs for use in the SYL-08, so I’m thinking its that. But sometimes they put 24 amp BMS, sometimes 40. Usually its a 24 amp bms though. The cells can actually do 10-15 amps though

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Yes, purchased from Amazon and from a US seller. I realize that doesn’t mean much since they could have bought a batch from China but that’s where I got it from.

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Could you go into your amazon order history and dig up a link to the product?

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It’s probably 25R which I expected given the pack AH

OP,
Total pack AH is the capacity. 2500mah per cell x4 equals 10AH. Comparatively, the 10S3P 30q you had is 3000mah per cell. So 9AH. The 5P is 15AH

For a 4wd build, 10 AH is not much in the way of capacity- which will effect range and performance.

Don’t go checking the BMS yet. Find the info on the battery and BMS. Get to the computer. Testing an restesting through the app is doing nothing for you right now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0863CW4BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I forgot to mention, I did disconnect two of the VESC’s as a troubleshooting step but it made no difference.

And this is why I tell everyone to slow down with recommendations and get the parts list

This battery will absolutely not support a 4wd setup. This has a max discharge rating of 30 amps.

Return the battery of you can and save for a quality battery built from proper cells.

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The 10s3p was definitely 7.5 AH. I have it here in front of me, even though it is dead. The label used to say the name of the brand (which I am sure was sumsung) but that portion of the label has been worn off.

I’m not trying to argue, you may very well be correct. I’m just saying what I see on the label.

A 10S3P Samsung 25R is a 2160W nominal battery
A 10S3P LG M26 w/ 30A BMS is a 1080W nominal battery

Your battery is going to be 1080W nominal, 4WD is silly because you’re just so insanely bottlenecked, what’s the point? 1080W bottlenecks on a single motor let alone 4

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It’s hard to tell from the amazon posting what cells are in that battery.

I’m assuming there is a BMS in play here. I would set the board up as a dual drive with 15A per side and get it to work. Then work on the 4wd troubleshooting. I expect this battery can’t output more than 50 total amps and I would suggest cutting your losses and getting rid of it if your goal is 4wd

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They’ll be LG M26. Typical scooter cells, they don’t really run at more than 10A continuous and there is a significant amount of sag at that

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Ok, so it won’t support a 4WD drive setup. I did disconnect two of the VESC’s and this did nothing. Still cuts off at 5mph.

When I lowered the current values for the motors down to 15 now the board cuts off while it is upside down and I gun it, where as it did not do this before, this was with all 4 VESC’s connected.

Can’t return the battery. The cutoff window closed. Guess this guy is getting a shitty review. He didn’t even ship the battery until 3 weeks after I bought it and threatened to file a claim with Amazon

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What are the battery amps set to?

Nah, the 4WD was just a project I wanted to explore since I hadn’t done one before. I can easy be happy with a 2WD since I have my 12s board I use for doing real damage.

This was mainly because I had spare motors and deck (and now battery I guess too) laying around and thought it would be nice to have an extra board for a friend to ride or in case my 12s took a shit like it did a couple days go when a few of the individual packs in the battery died, causing the entire thing to fail - was to be expected since it is well over a year old, been used nearly every day and has tens of hundreds of miles on it, easily, maybe in the 1k - 2k range. Strange how the majority of the 12 individual cells still have full charge though

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NO, you need to reduce the battery max amps setting. Motor amps is irrelevant

Thanks @Anubis for identifying the cells.

$215 for a 10S4P is the first red flag. The second is the reviews saying the internals broke apart

Start preparing to move on from this battery. Or start a dispute with amazon that it does not perform as advertised.

Set each vesc for 2wd to 10 amps batt max and test. Disconnect the other vescs completely.

Comparison: 10S4P 30q battery could push 15-20 amps per vesc for 4WD so 60-80 amps total. 10S4P p42A can push 25-30 amps per vesc for 4WD, so 100-120 total. All of these I expect to sag heavily. Both of these options are more than double what you paid for that battery and I would consider them entry level bottlenecks for a 4wd setup. Your battery can output less than 40 amps total. The listing says max 35. But I bet it has a 30-35 amp max discharge BMS. So I’d keep your total amp draw (vesc 1 plus vesc 2) under 30.

Most guys with 4wd have massive batteries.

That battery you have had a max output of roughly 40 amps. Realistically like 35 total.

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So set the battery amps at what, 35? and the motor amps leave default? For a 2WD setup that is?

I’d suggest you unplug everything, leave it as is. And read as much info from the noob threads to more intricate shit because its pretty obvious you jumped into this with almost 0 knowledge and 50v batteries are nothing to fuck with.

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The vesc settings are set PER vesc. So for 2WD set ups, battery amps is divided by 2 for each vesc

If the battery itself can output max 40A for example, it would be 20A for each vesc

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