OK. Malware removed, all sorted.
Added some pricing. It is at ~ so might change but should be close.
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Hey @Agniusm,
I’m making a 12s8p board with NESE. I will be printing 12 x 1s8p boxes out of PETG+. I remember you shared your Slic3r PE settings in another thread.
There are a lot of custom settings there. I’m printing out of a Prusa MK3S. Should I just try with default settings first? My printer is generally well calibrated
Second question, when printing these many boxes do you print more than 1 at once? Or at least a Base and a Lid at once? Let me know if you have a recommendation.
Thanks!
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Seems to be coming along nicely, hopefully it will fit
Each print is 90g, ~8 hours. I just realized now that this will ad ~1kg to the build. It’s a big build anywyas so should be ok.
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I print 3 bottoms at once then 3 tops. Main settings are:
5 bottom layers
6 top layers
4 perimeters
Fill thin gaps checked
0% infill
No supports
No brim
I dont do skirt anymore
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My printer can only take PLA.
Would that be ok?
consider the heat, you need some heat resistant pla.
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Stop. Those are the older modules. Get newer modules from the link in the main post.
Really? I already printed 4 of them 
Looking at thingiverse there is only a minor change which are those angles. Doesn’t seem worth to re-print for that. Is there another version?
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The old ones are perfectly fine. There was a case where @mishrasubhransu module cracked. Thats why this spot was reinforced. You have 3d printer so if it cracks, you can reprint.
PLA is not a good idea. You could print with PLA, even ordinary ones but you need to anneal them. The challenge is that it will deform when annealing and you might need to compensate that by scaling your prints. Standard PLA could be annealed to withstand temps of 80-90C and high temp PLA 120-170C.
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You print in Petg, right?
Yes, i print mainly petg
gotcha
How hot to the cells get under lots of load?
Any news on the lowprofile fasteners? 
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Can anyone tell me what the dimensions for a 2s3p and the DieBieMS enclosures are exactly? 
Cells do not suppose to get hot. If they do, youeither have undersized pack for the power you want to draw or wrong, low power cells. You want to keep them as close to ambient(being 20C) as possible
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No easy task I will say. I got washers, still waiting on the screws. 1.2-1.4mm tall heads are not common 
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You can download 3d file and get every dimention you might need exactly. Even windows 10 has built in stl viewer, just not sure if you can take dimetions in it.
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If heat is not the issue with PLA what is?
Its strength to hold the compressions on the cells?
Heat is the problem. Standard PLA gets soft fast and we Eskate people often stress our batteries. Then comes the ambient temperature and the temperature that builds up in our enclosures.
Just don’t print standard PLA. You get softness around 50C already and these Modules work with compression force. You cannot afford a weakening in your material.
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