Yo yo. Tryna wassap n emailyou julesspinner@icloud dot com
How on earth do you get the washers and spring washers on and off the M5 bolts? I need to swap 2 bolts for longer ones (have a lot of connectors at the ends), and itâs hard as nails! Is there some trick to it?
Those are premade, pressed sets 
You cant just get them off 
Usually what i do is use extra series bus bar, and bolt wireweb to it
Takes off stresses from the module.
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Thatâs a clever solution, Iâll keep that in mind for future builds! I ended up using a pulley remover tool to force the washers off, and then used a dremel to increase their inner diameter. Will share pictures of the final battery sometime this week when I make a build thread
New filament is out. This is good news. The material is called Nonoilen from Fillamentum. This material is biodegradable, degrades 3x faster than usual PLA, prints same as PLA and is capable of temperatures up to 120C plus is food and dishwasher safe. I have ordered a roll to test it out on NESE modules. Using this, NESE modules would be 100% recyclable.
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Just wanted to remind people that when building a NESE brick pack vertically, make sure you screw the tabs into the top module first, and then the bottom one. I knew this, but forgot, and while screwing in had a tab swing down and cause a short. Burn-cut my finger while removing it because it heated up in no time 
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the same thing happened to me 
fortunately the bus bar took all of the damage.
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Prototyping 12V 7A VRLA replacement with lifepo4. Fully integrated with no wires. Looks promising. 2000 cycles vs 200. 20A continues. For UPS battery replacements.
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(paging @BrassMittens , @rich , @Agniusm)
Has anyone tried to make a modular battery pack (even more than NESE already is)?
i.e. a 12s6p pack in a 12s3p + 12s3p setup so that you could remove half the battery for weight savings and better jumping?
As a NESE assembly, I assume youâd need 24x 3p modules. Maybe thatâs too many additional connections to qualify as âswappableâ
Yep. I have swappable 12S3P/12S6P P42A packs on my mountainboard for exactly that reason. They are just bricks of glued and welded together cells along with LLT smart BMS?s in 3D printed cases. The cases bolt to two mounts on the board and put the two packs in parallel. So far theyâve worked out and are still balanced ±0.01V after 500 km worth of jumping.
Thingiverse link to the 3P brick packs and mounts
Not sure what your goal is but you could probably do the same thing with NESE modules if you make custom cases to enclose 12x 3P NESE modules + a BMS. I wouldnât recommend having connections to put all the cells in parallel as that could take forever to connect/disconnect, and might be annoying if you plan to change the config frequently.
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Ahh, so the trick is the dual BMS and putting both packs in parallel, as if you had 2x 12s3p lipo packs. Good tip!
(or 1 bms and a 13-pin balance lead connector on each pack)
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You can print 6 2s3p modules so you dont need to mount as many. You can also take 6 modules and glue them in slicer app and it will print one single modulea which will be 12S3P in single case. The issue with this is flex if its bottom deck narrow pack.
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This would be intended for a top mount, pelican case style setup. Since the NESE modules already add a good bit of strength & rigidity, a gasketed electronics enclosure or fully 3D printed case might work as well.
Ideally, i would arrange the modules in two layers. Bottom layer is 12s2p or 12s3p and permanently mounted. Top layer would be added/subtracted for lower weight / more range. Iâll have to check measurements between the bindings to find the ideal arrangement of modules. @Agniusm, max tab length is 8p right? So if someone were to join & print a single large module, how do you recommend someone wire it up - just solder tabs and/or solder a wire bridge?
Most likely i would leave the BMS mounted to the charger at home. Less data, but also less wiring and components in the box.
You can solder it up or use busbars and bolts as intended. If its top deck battery then it makes no point to solidify modules into one.
I would design a box to house 6 2S2P modules, probably with built in jst connector and couple bullet connectors and then a dock which would house your esc, electronics. I mean its limitless what you can do if you have time. Here is something i did recently for my kids, uses off the shelve makita batteries, simple
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Iâm curious, if you were to print a 4S2P module (or any more than 3x S groups), whatâs the best way to access the middle balance wire(s)?
Quick visual aid:
Edit:
I was thinking of minimizing the total number of tabs, but I guess if you cut up 3x 8p tabs into 5 pieces, you could make a hole and bend the end of the middle tab outside the module. Use the usual fasteners (or solder) to attach the middle balance wire.
Best you can do is 3S2P in 2S3P module. You need to access those 2 groups in the middle and you will need to drill or something to feed wire. I wouldnât do it, will be a mess.
I dont even imagine what you can do with 2P on mountain board?
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12s2p lightweight jump pack
Add a 12s3p pack in parallel for 12s5p range!
4x 3s2p modules or 6x 2s2p modules will probably work fine. I was just curious if anyone had tried >3S in a module
I did one 8S1P for someone here:
As i said, not intended use, awkward
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Do you know what the real dimensions of the P42A are?
I have heard they run a little big, and I wonder if scaling a NESE to 101% or 102% would be enough?
