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NESE, the no solder 18650 battery system

Perfect timing I have a bunch of 30t I want to experiment with , I don’t want to weld until I have experimented a little :slight_smile:

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Couple short videos on assembly and new 21700:

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maybe a noob question, do the 18650 modules work with button top cells or flat?

10 char

how wide/long is a 20700 2s4p kit with shallow bolts?
Trying to see if I can fit this in some enclosures:



I recently opened my sealed enclosure to pair a new remote–old one got left in Uber-- and was super happy that after 1200km everything looks great. The NESE modules and the shock absorbing base have all survived.

I would have put more km on this system had I not made a second board(~400km on that one). That also has NESE, but custom boxes and without enclosure(I don’t ride it in rain). That seems to be going strong too.

If you have a 3D printer and can print in PETG or ABS, NESE is the way to go. My next project will use 21700 tabs.

@DAddYE, did you ever get around to making NESE battery pack?


did you make the shock absorbing base? what did you use for it? i am currently putting together a 12s6p battery, but il have to double stack the nese packs and i am wondering what to use inbetween them for shock absorbing purposes.

Take a look at this

@mishrasubhransu, are those updated modules with streghtened tab exit side?
@murdomeek if you would go to the shop and click on additional information of the module, you will see dimensions and weight. Same for bolts.

The one with 1200km are your original modules that developed a slight crack(in the sharp corner which you have now fixed), but I had superglued it and has been fine.

The one with 400km are these ones below to be used with vibrations standoffs. I think for next time, I’ll just be using thick( or few layers) double sided tape.



@Agniusm, you made something like this right? How well is it working?

What makes you want to move to double sided tape? I was planing on using your mounts (the curved ones), what is the downside to those?

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  1. Space: I would like to pack as much battery in there as possible. And the shock dampening mounts take a lot of space
  2. Convenience: using 2-3 stacked layer of double sided tape will be strong enough (look at their ratings) and also provide sufficient dampening without taking up space or being a lot of additional work.

Downside of using double sided tape is that it’s probably going to be messy and difficult to remove them and mount them elsewhere. Also you have to wire the balance wires on the side (not underneath) for them to be accessible.


To be clear, VHB is amazing. The stuff is super stable and works well in nearly every environment. I’ve used it as a mounting solution for RC Receivers that are going under water, get Nitro Fuel on them, and so on. Especially when using something like a 3d printed housing that has several smaller ridges to hold on too.

I was planning on sticking with LIPO’s but this approach is something that i think i might use in the next build.

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Turns out this video came out today -

Looks like there are some other compelling options for VHB and similar doublesided tapes. LLPT seems like an insane value in this sense if you’re going to need or want a bunch of it.

The system is on hold. I have no time. My kids are small and i have plenty stuff to print and pack and order, you know. I have ordered new bed for ender to drill it and mount my rollers without 3d printed parts. The key here is belt itself. It has to be flexible enough to go over smaller roller diameter; not to deform when plastic deforms when cooling; stick to it; release some when its cooled. Not an easy task. At the moment i have 0.01mm stainless which will be covered with 0.12mm PEI sheet. I have initial motion done and tested.

Regarding VHB tape, you could stick two pieces and feed your balance wires in between. It is a bit messy to take it off but how often do you do that? Its a good solution as it takes no time to mount them. The bond is over the top sufficient. i like stuff that is dirt simple :smiley:


how necessary do you think it is to have your Ballance wires accessible? It seems like something that you would never have to touch once it is set up?

In flex scenario, it could be important. Haven’t had to, but it’s better to be prepared.

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I am with you here. If wires are properly terminated and have some extra length to give, you should not need to have access to them. I would heat shrink them with tube that has glue lining so you would close it for moisture to to get into core and oxidize. Still very unlikely it will fail.

Im getting ready to order a 12s4p system from you. Can you tell me the best/ most compact way to go about this? (6) 2s4p packs? Or is there another way now? Also im guessing low profile hardware is better?