Building a 12s7p with NESE Modules is it safe?

Hello since some unfoirseen circumstances the welder i purchased late last year which is now outsdie of warranty blew up upon turning it on for the first time im now looking for an alternative without having to shell hundreds more on parts since i already have the cells in and i have 2 3D printers im looking at the NESE modules to make a 12s7p but im looking for some sugestions will the modules themselves be able to handle the current of a 12s7p pack? im looking at getting hardare sets for 7p modules and printing the cases myself out of PETG

Link to website AM TECH

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I would say absolutely because I personally have been using them in 2 boards, one with 1200km and the other with 400km. Also Agnius(the designer) has a video of them being tested upto 200Amps.

For welding battery there are several parameters to get a battery pack perfect, for NESE it’s almost foolproof.

Since you already have a 3D printer, I would say definitely go for it.

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Shipping on hardware is quite long to Australia. You printed me some cases for nese last time and your print settings were quite good some areas just need some sanding

ok i might do a little more research into it as the hardware is completly different to spot welding the pack which is where all my research went into haha. but if htey can handle a 12s7p pack at peak current draw that would be safe to say im making them if they fit in the pelican 1200 case i have

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ended up placing an order and grabbed 2 sets of bus bars to double up on them got first 2 modules on print bed now so expected to take about a week to print all 12 haha

Hi. Just lurking on post on NESE. Have you received yours? Sorry i cant recall as i cant tie who’s purchasing to nicknames. I dont think you need to double up on series bus bars. They are 1mm thick. Just for the thickness you would need to use 6x nickel strip if spotwelded and then quadruple that up for conductivity of nickel 24% vs copper 100% IACS.
Would be interesting to know how it went.

I dont think you’ll be able to fit the cells in the modules if you double up on bus bars, it’s a tight fit as is. Im really happy so far with mine.

Don’t think you need to double up bus bars on these. Pretty sure he claimed they were capable of 200a. I know I saw a video of him testing how they held up to vibrations, I think he may have done a different test testing the amps. I know he claimed they could do 200a.

I got double buss bars in perfectly fine

You probably mean tabs. I call the inside one tabs and small that connect modules bus bars. He probably meant outside ones and they should be good with supplied fasteners. Internal tabs are probably over 20x times the capacity 0.15 nickel strip would have. You dont need to double up, at least on skateboards.
P.S. key thing is thermal management. Most we can do is air or forced air cooling and driving cells at the max would require liquid cooling, something like tesla does which is next to impossible in DIY. In my tests I saw twice lower temperatures on tabs and end terminals than I saw on cells. You would probably need a cell capable of 60A continues discharge for the tabs and bus bars needing reinforcement. I did my testing with Sony US18650VTC5A

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@Agniusm Can you put a thermistor inside a module, directly on or close to a cell? With some minor modding maybe?

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I guess you can just drill 3mm hole and feed the thermistor, then use some kapton tape. I would have it on short wire with connector, something JST, small.

circled is the space where you could place thermistor.

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Pretty easy without mods I think. But if I had the choice to start over I would go lipos for the extra power output