Sooo then thin out the silicone with water before injecting. Problem solved 
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That’s why I love ya’ guys! Always quick with innovative solutions to impossible problems. 
for anyone wondering if this is actually a good idea…umm…no.
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Ok, real question - why do we care if the silicone cures?
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It may not matter to some.
But we should be aware that non-curing can happen though, especially if we are expecting it and depending on it. For some applications it could matter.
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#Data
Great points as always.
In other news - after bastardizing a xenigotchi to work with the DV6, I got it installed and heard that lovely mario start up chime 
Thanks @skate420 - booted right up!
One footpad away from an epic ride.
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@Battery_Mooch do you know of a ~similar sealant that would work better in these environmental conditions, under heat shrink
Hot glue dries too fast and too rigid for my taste.
Epoxy could work, seeing as it doesn’t appear to require air or water to cure, but it makes disassembly impossible. Does epoxy have any affect on electronics? @b264
Maybe a rubberized thermoplastic/elastomer
I second this
It may never fully cure and if it does, it might be measured in weeks or months.
But yeah, I do this a lot, it works very well.
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Actually, hot glue (HMA) works fucking fantastically if you just cut small chunks of it (at room temperature) and put it inside the heatshrink with the wire.
When you use the heat gun to shrink the tubing, it will melt the HMA inside and it will squeeze out the ends, making a great seal.
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#Footpads
I think this is the nicest TPU print I’ve ever done. Wild what a serious cleaning and calibration will do. Serious thanks to @DeadLightning for that website.
This was an old spool of black TPU I had laying around, uncovered, unprotected, literally gathering dust. After one failed print i threw it in the dehydrated for 24 hours and it prints like new.
And the roughed design fits!
Big props to @ApexBoards for the inspiration on their excellent shockpads. I ran with the idea - still more revisions to come I’m sure, but they work!
Catch me outside on a ride riiiight meow
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The (almost) clear hobby hot melt sticks (1/4” dia.?) are pretty flexible and I think a thinner layer of that would work well.
I use rigid hot melt under a short length of heat shrink to protect the solder joints, making sure it oozes out a bit from all around both openings. Then I use two or three more layers of heat shrink, staggered in length, to form a strain relief “shroud” over everything.
That’s too much work for every connection I do but for the big beefy ones that can get bounced around, and where having the wire enter a solid blob could lead to metal fatigue, it’s great for protection and long life.
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Alright the experts have spoken. I’ll try hot melt glue from now on. Excellent tip!
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In other news, mountain boards are the greatest thing since sliced bread
This is everything i wanted when I saw the first esk8 and knew absolutely nothing.
I cruised effortlessly over large road cracks, grass yards, sidewalk bumps aka tactile paving, launched off a few curbs, some glass (unknowingly), pinned the throttle, through a tunnel and then… the puck died. Probably should’ve charged it. But I was toying with the idea of trying to get the front end up, and that would’ve ended badly, so thanks puck!
Also, thanks @moon these pom drives are the bee’s knees. Quiet, light, direct.
However, need to start tuning in the vesc tool. It seemed like there was a huge deadband with the puck. Like the middle 50% barely provoked a response. Braking was lukewarm. Acceleration was slow.
I also noticed something odd with the Davega. I was watching it to see what kind of top speed I could hit on a straight. The numbers stuck around 15mph for a few seconds while I had the throttle pinned. It jumped straight to 26. That seemed more accurate, but the refresh rate seems terrible for some reason. This type of behavior was consistent throughout the ride while I cruised around.
A few things to investigate.
But the matrix IIs… carving at 25mph? amazing. The Haero… pop like a snowboard and rock solid stability… wonderful. Big ol 8" wheels… I’m never going back.
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Once you go 8” you never go back. The only time I would ever touch thane is on perfectly paved roads or possibly very slightly bumpy asphalt forest trails… would still prefer 6” over thane in that situation tho
Puck battery life is unfortunate… one of the few bad things about it.
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You sure you configured the PPM settings with the Puck in speed mode 3?
There is a big difference between modes
@janpom sounds like a similar issue to the one I have on mine, also with gear drives.
Very possible i didn’t. I just learned the puck has modes 
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I doubt that has anything to do with gear drives. Most likely reason is that DAVEGA temporarily looses the connection with the VESC. Then all the telemetry values stop updating until the connection is regained. If you could make a video showing the issue that would be very helpful for troubleshooting.
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Lol idk why I didn’t think of this
I can do that - need to install new ESC first though
Are there vesc tool settings that need to be adjusted for the Davega? As in, making sure UART is set as input on the side that its plugged into?
UART needs to be enabled on the VESC.
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