that Haero looks so dope dude…
I am not sure if alrrady in the plans but I highly recommend a heatsink…
Have you ridden bindings before?
planning on going out with heel straps from the get go?
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Personally, I would have 2 packs and make them easily swappable. 12s5/6p(or larger) for a cruising pack and use lipo’s for a jump pack. This would eliminate concerns over paralleling packs together.
Nice build dude, awesome artwork!
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This is effectively what I did ^^
12s6p for riding, 12s2p for jump session
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Definitely considered this, but I can only mentally/emotionally/financially afford so many esk8 purchases at a time. Modular batteries soothes my need to avoid waste. If I was a smarter man, I would’ve waited until someone (@Taraskasyanyuk) put up a used 12s5p battery for sale and snagged that. Or used lipos, etc etc.
But that also requires buying a lipo charger.
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#Battery
Now that the experts that be have given the go ahead, that this type of dual pack setup probably won’t do anything too funky electrically, I’ve started building for real:
Nicely enough, the Nanuk 905 case has #3 screw holes built into the sidewalls for attachment. I printed a rigid frame for the 12s2p pack and it mounts quite nicely this way.
The 2p NESE modules do not stay together very well naturally, since the bus bars are alternating top and bottom, and they’re the only thing attaching module to module. It wants to pop apart like an accordion without additional support. The modules have zip tie holes, but it’s not super easy to use these without really long zip ties, or a lot of them.
This case reduces the # of zip ties down to 2 and keeps everything locked in and aligned.
Also, the super important TPU screw caps! Without these, every bolt is electrically live and exposed. Scary stuff. I redesigned the caps to extend out over the tabs, since they did not cover everything and were super difficult to install (very tight fit).
Enclosure mounting hardware is ordered and on the way.
Next up, wiring.
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#Footpads
Jump pack done and wired.
Extended all the motor wires. Now time to print some dragon foot tunnel pads:
Edit:
Tried a few footprint designs. I couldn’t find one that didn’t look over the top. Went with a simple scale pattern.
Edit 2:
Not too bad. Got the deck edges spot on. For how large the scale holes are, it’s very supportive / not a ton of flex. TPU is awesome stuff. It’s very 2D right now - I could add some chamfers at the edges to improve the looks
Need to find some clear grip tape…
12 Likes
#Assembly
Time to tackle mounting the enclosure…
I still use this trick, all the way from grade school art class. Rub a colored pencil over the edges to imprint the bottom of the enclosure onto a piece of paper. Throw the photo into CAD, calibrate, and boom, got ourselves a perfect fit design.
A couple iterations later and I’ve managed to nail down the variance in height between the Nanuk 905 feet and my mounting screws and the curve of the deck.
I assumed the little mold nub in the center of the enclosure bottom was perfectly centered… and drilled it out (foreshadowing)
As I plunge my drill bit through the enclosure, rendering it’s waterproof qualities moot, a thought occurs:
What if this nub is not centered. maybe i should measure. it’s probably centered.
Shocker, it was not centered… Future-me will have to plug that hole somehow.
Drilled out the board and countersunk with an imperial bit - close enough. No idea where to get a 90deg countersink bit at a brick and mortar. No going back now.
Very nice. Test fit is perrrrfect. M5x30 flatheads are just barely long enough.
The enclosure is now super stable and I love it. Getting close!
If that MakerX DV6 doesn’t staying cool enough inside the enclosure, I’ll replace this TPU spacer with an aluminum heatsink/mount plate and cut out the enclosure bottom.
@ShutterShock, I remember you talking about printed enclosure mounting standoffs. So here’s mine.
For anyone’s use:
Nanuk 905 Mounting Spacer v2.step (531.1 KB)
Nanuk 905 Mounting Spacer v2.stl (376.3 KB)
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That’s damn evil of them not to center that nub
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Right?
I’m channeling you hard on this build brother. I put in two PG11 and one PG9 gland <chef’s kiss> perfect fit for the motor wires. Just barely enough thread on the back side of those to tighten the plastic nuts down.
Time to crimp the sensor wire pins. Using a 6 conductor cable is so much nicer than individual wires.
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Run that motor detection before sealing everything up! I learned the hard way 
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That build is nasty!!! Great job.
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Looking nice! Yeah I have a similar one on my build, same idea, different implementation
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Well I’m a dummy.
Bought these (free shipping 6X2 tyre 6 Inch Scooter Tire & Inner Tube Set Electric Scooter Wheel Chair Truck Electric Scooter F0 Pneumatic|tire 6|scooter tirescooter tires free shipping - AliExpress) 6x2 roadie tires assuming they’d fit MBS hubs. No dice. The super stiff sidewall and smaller ID means these are a no-go, unless someone’s got a trick I don’t know about.
Anyone need tires?
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Nah, unfortunately there are 2 diameter sizes of pneumatic hubs we use:
-
Mbs, trampa, kaly, sunmate, etc style wheels that have a ~100mm or 4" hub diameter
-
bergmeister, six shooter style wheels that have a 71mm hub diameter
If you need some 6" ones that fit mbs hubs, you’re looking for the metroboard 155 tires, mboard tires, etc
6" Mboard wheels on sunmate trampa clones on the left, 8" mbs tires on rockstar 2s on the right. I can swap tube and tire between the 2 hubs no problem.
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Man I hate supporting mboards, but they’ve got the right price. Where you do pickup your tubes with the perpendicular valve stem?
Edit: these are quite nice:
I use that first link often but you’re going to need 150 x 50 tubes if you want to use the 6" tire size.
It was stupidly cheap on black Friday. $67 for a set of 4 tires and tubes was too nice to pass on 
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Dammit, I need to stop being so trigger happy ordering things just bc they’re cheap. I read this:
And understood it as you could swap the same tubes between different size tires no problem.
Well now I have 10 200x50 tubes 
#neverrunout
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Haha they’ll get used I’m sure
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#Wiring
Finally finished all the wire extensions, bullet soldering, heat shrinking, sensor wire crimping, gland installation, and silicon-ing.
I had the wrong size polyester cable sleeve, so I gave up after a few frustrating minute of trying to forcefully thread all the motor wires through. I probably could’ve made it work if not for the larger solder bulges. I’ll try the 0.75" dia when it shows up next week.
As I discovered - order of operations when shoving 3 phase wires + sensor wire through a PG11 gland is very important.
- Install gland into enclosure after threading all cables through all parts
- Install the sensor connector at the very end
- Through the outermost gland nut: phase bullets first, then sensor crimps
- Through the rubber grommet: sensor crimps first, then stretch it over the last phase bullet
- Through the threaded gland housing: phase bullets first, then sensor crimps
This avoids any tearing of the heat shrink and minimizes damage to the sensitive wire crimps
Foot pad wire channels could be a smidge wider, but they work. Will enlarge in the next revision.
Waiting for the silicone to dry a bit, and then first power up!
9 Likes
#Tuning
TEST RIIIIIIDE 
As is tradition, first power up was at 2am. I barely missed my Jan 1 goal to start off the new year on a high. After a couple nail-biter rounds of VESC Tool, where things did not sound like these should, some Davega troubleshooting, and some Hoyt Puck setting adjustment, it was time to take this thing outside!
In the wild:
A few thoughts:
- Fuck. urethane. Pneumatics are the roll over anything, slid across front lawns, launch off curbs wheels I always wanted!
- I think these Matrix IIs might actually be more carvy than the BN220s I had on the landyatchz. At low speed, I could get a really aggressive turn. Super excited to see how fast I could rip a track course on this setup.
- The Haero Bro deck + these trucks feels so close to snowboarding its unreal. Love it.
- I forgot how to turn in bindings. Gonna have to relearn that real quick. Already used the Puck as a puck.
- So far this build is everything I wanted. ALL THE HYPE.
- Time to learn wheelies
Lastly, now trying out the other experimental part of this build - #fuckBMS @BenjaminF
Nothing ground-breaking, but the BMS now lives attached to the charger. No reason to lug it around 24/7 when its only used briefly. This little BMS wiring harness worked out great. No charge fuse. No charge port. No loopkey. This battery has one XT90s, that’s it.
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