Thx man, ill report back on my tests. I may even upload the file if i make something that isnt shitty!
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@MBS are matrix 2 top trucks reversible?
Can anyone see a problem with facing the straight logo side inward. They would fit on my deck better that way.
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I can’t see an issue apart from slightly changing your wheelbase and ride height
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You can get pre-made JST connectors, single or double ended, male or female, in pretty much any type and pin count you want and rearrange the pins to fit your needs.
Other than that, anything with enough pins will work. I’ve used some nice panel-mount waterproof connectors on my ebike in the past that I liked quite a bit, I think they were called SP13?
Obviously those are much larger and more expensive than JSTs, and they won’t be fully waterproof unless they have a solid sheath to grip onto rather than individual wires.
There are also JST-SM connectors, which may be a little more forgiving because you can crimp or solder the wires to the pins before installing them in the connector housings, and the housings lock together.
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+1 on TPU printed spacer
@Oddcomo i just finished a haero build with a top mount nanuk case. Take a look at my thread and I might be able to lend some shortcuts.
It worked out exactly like i wanted. I can dig up my slicer settings if you like
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Hello! Anyone who can help me out (again). Trying to open up my flipsky motor, but cant get the can off. Is it needed to unscrew those axle grub screws on the backside or not?
shouldn’t need to. once u remove the c-clip, mount it back on a motor mount, clamp the motor mount somewhere real tight, then start pulling on the motor can
just be careful the magnetic force is actually quite strong
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and washer / shim that come after the C-clip
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Thanks both! Will put it back on the mount again maybe it will work 
ya those too, but they don’t really prevent the shaft from moving, only c-clip does, but better keep those tiny piece somewhere safe so u don’t lose them
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true.
Not sure how likely it is for them to slide into the c-clip cutout and get stuck/pevent the can from being removed.
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very likely 
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My guess is 99% likely
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Worked out great with putting it on the shaft! Weird enough motor looks great inside. I haven’t found out problem yet with putting on screws and (not always but most of the time) increasing resistance… Screws don’t touch the windings as well.
I was running my 60A ones today at what I thought was pretty heavy throttle so I thought I’d be close to thermal issuee. Cool to the touch, you could barely tell they’d been on. Maybe I wasn’t actually riding that hard though and I have no logger on that board, but I did (shortish) hill tests at full throttle with me at 105kg
A metr log of your ride will reveal a lot. The ESC is more like a valve than a pump. It limits the maximum current the motor can take, and the motor will only take as much as it needs. Cruising at 20mph I’m only pulling 20A on a single motor so if you are running a dual drive, that’s only 10A to maintain speed.
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I swear I knew this before but not so sure any more, when configuring a Unity on mainline firmware (5.2 in my case), you do treat the battery current the same as any other 2 CAN connected right? So if I want 40A battery draw in total, each emulated side gets 20?
As long as you use the regular vesc tool is the same as any other CAN setup
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