I’d love an enclosure option for that zenit deck, it’s a joy to ride on. Not too flexy, but just enough to feel lively and stable on (at least a kick push speeds)
(+ On Brian’s advice, I don’t think there’s a premade enclosure for that deck, and making a good fiberglass enclosure is a ton of work)
How do off the shelf carts do it now?
Edit:
Looks like they tend to be one large live axle
I bet you could find an existing beefy steel shaft with some sort of threading on the ends, then use an adapter/cut threads/weld your 12mm shaft to that
I agree with both of you (@YeetMeat / @b264) - there’s no way im making an enclosure. What i was wondering though was whether bigbens enclosure for the Zenit Marble would fit on any of the other Zenit boards, but someone will have to do it for science first
Yeah that’s one of my considered options for sure. Definitely a lot of options for them out there.
Thanks! Kaly and Newbee look really cool. I was asking about US based just for faster shipping. Any favorites internationally?
I’d personally lean towards a full length fixed axle, to be sure it can take whatever abuse you throw at it. You’d have to beef up half shafts mounted to the frame so much you may as well go full length
Ha! here you go:
Answers your original q
Bustin Sportster would be a similar ride, different look though. That zenit is niice
Yeah I had seen the idea on a site similar to that and thought that was too easy of a solution to work but fuck it, I’m gonna try it.
@PixelatedPolyeurthan got the 2 pedals mapped to forward and reverse figured out recently too which is awesome.
Just do your best to get plenty of weld meat on there, without putting too much heat into the bolt. Tack it on two or three sides, then let it cool a bit. Then weld one side, let it cool. Another side, more cooling, rinse and repeat. That will preserve the strength of the grade-8 bolt as much as possible.
Don’t get impatient and dunk the hot workpiece in water to cool it, that can cause the welds to become brittle and crack.
That’s a gorgeous looking deck wow
Awesome information, thank you.
Any issue with using metric 12.9 and welding? Or any coatings I should avoid?
Both grade 8 and 12.9 are hardened, so excessive heat will reduce their strength to some degree. Keeping it cool by welding a bit at a time should help a lot.
Any thing galvanized or zinc plated should have the coating removed from the vicinity of the weld area. Zinc fumes are really really bad for your lungs.
Hi guys, can a 12s4p of molicel p26a handle 80 amps per side on a stormcore. I know it’s a max of 35 amps per cell but I’m not getting appropriate torque for me. I have a 4.2 :1. Thanks!
So high battery curent is almost exclusively useful for torque when you’re already at high speed. ie for hills at high speed, very heavy weights at high speed, or a motor that’s geared for high speed.
What you probably want is more motor current.
Usual followup questions: What’s your motor current set at, what size wheels, what size and kv motor
I’m sorry I mean max motor current. Currently set at 70 amps per side and I have 7 inch wheels. I’m a big guy tho, putting these batteries to the test. About 265
And 190 kv motors 6374 which I know isn’t optimal for torque
Ah cool, thanks for the info. You could theoretically set the motor current to whatever you want and the battery would be fine, as long as the battery current was set appropriately. So I currently run a board with a weak battery and set for torque where I have 70A motor current and 15A battery per side. The battery isn’t allowed draw more than 15 (normally), so it doesn’t care about the motor current and it can “handle” that just fine. If I set it to 40A battery per side and went fast up a steep hill at the same motor current, then the battery might need to issue a complaint.
I’m not expert in what settings are too high for 6374s, anecdotally I’ve read people saturating their motors (ie reached the max capacity, all extra current just turned into heat) at ~70A, but the real answer is to check your motor thermals and make sure you don’t detonate the ESC
If the motors aren’t overheating (ideally use a logging device and temp sensors, but checking by touch is better than nothing), you can use higher current.
Ok. So I have discharge bypassed on my bms, 70 amps for max motor current, and 70 amps max battery current (per side). I figured this was appropriate since 35 x4 is 140/2= 70 amps max per side?
The 6374’s can handle 80 amps at least in my experience, I’m more worried about damaging the battery pushing it to 80 amps max motor current and 80 amps max battery current. (Per side)
So 80A motor doesn’t hit the battery harder, only battery amps hit the battery. Also, the P26A isn’t really a 35A cell, it can only do that in low ambient temperatures and ideal conditions. Mooch rates it for 25A.
IMO (someone else feel free to correct me) you’d be better off with ~85A motor, and 50A battery. Do test it though to see if your motors overheat
Edit oops I fixed a mistake sorry
