You might not have space for fire retardant sheets / they might just trap heat inside the battery instead of letting it cool down by spreading to the surroundings, but it could work 
But like, you’re already using a NESE pack; if balance wires short they’ll burn up anyway, and the chances of your main terminal wires shorting by means of something that won’t instantly burn up is close to zero. You’ve already got a safe battery 
Gotcha, then I won’t worry about it then. Thanks man. Going to order the N.E.S.E modules soon. Won’t expect them for about 2-3 months.
In other news, I’ll have to wait until next year Spring semester to start my thesis since I need a minimum of 18 credits. Should be enough time to get all the components minus the batteries. Hoping @Sender will be available by then to do some senderizing and fiberglass reinforcement. I don’t fully trust this deck as it is now.
Using this from the Battery Basics for Beginners [Serious] Thread, a 42.0V 2A Charger should be good normal charger for the 10s2p 30Q configuration. (Maybe I’ll opt for 3A for 2 hour charging time) . So I’m thinking I should get a 7.5A fuse. Would this work ?
Fuse Holder:
Fuse:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0891075NXS?qs=5b8eIUDTslkvkxd5rgK1Lg%3D%3D
Yep, they’ll work fine and be incredibly easy to replace if one ever blows.
Yeah those look very cool
They work at 12s 
I use them on everything and no issues so far (except the one time I plugged the charger in backwards, surprisingly a 5A fuse popped 
)
If you want I can make an inline plug and play fuse setup so you don’t have a ton of spare parts
Really? How? I’ve been reading up on batteries and fuses and thought a fuse needs to be the same or higher voltage as your rated battery system.
That would actually be amazing can I get a picture and dimensions of this plug and play fuse setup so I can model out how it’ll fit please?
I have one in my 12s charger, at 8A charge current the 10A fuse didn’t blow, and I got a shit ton up to 30A so I can always fudge the current up for high voltage applications
The minimum size is 12mm thick, 19mm wide, about 60mm long…but add 9mm width to use the waterproof cap, and the length can be longer depending on what you need. I can terminate in XT30, XT60, 5.5x2.5, and red 2 pin JST…or any mix, just state your need (2 pin is good for 3A, barrel is good for 5A, XT will excede the fuse)
This is the XT60 terminated one I use for my 12s 8A charger, using a 10A rated fuse
Edit: I can also do 3.5mm and 4.0mm bullets, or 3 pin JST (looks like 1.25mm pitch) or loose bread board type pins…not sure why you would want them, small profile I guess, but I got them anyways so they are also on the table
Totally talking out my rear here, but I always figured the fuses voltage was just a part for the fuses wattage limit formula.
36v 5a fuse is good for 180w of power…
36v 7.5a fuse would be good for 270… Etc.
Say you’ve got a 50.4v (44.4 nominal) 3a charger, that would be 133w of current 
I’m hoping I can squeeze a 42v 5.71a charger with a 36v 7.5a fuse… Given what I wrote above is true, it should be safe 
Someone with a larger brain than I, please chime in and give me a verbal smack if I’m being misleading.
E: I’ve been fact checked
Nice it should fit
Ah I see so your charge port has like a 5.5x2.5 to XT60 end to connect to this inline fuse right? (Just trying to capture a visual of the system,
So it’s not directly the power, but the heat dissipation…so W = I^2 * R…the voltage doesn’t play into how much heat is dissipated, it’s purely based on the current and the unit resistance of the fuse, the voltage affects the current but since it’s a limited current supply it doesn’t matter
Lol all my boards and chargers are different, this one is for the MTB which has an XT60 charge port, and the fuse is tied to the charger
The mono drive has the fuse on the inside and it’s spliced into the battery end
The AT has 3 adapters…barrel to XT30, XT30 through fuse to 2 pin, 2 pin to battery
You tell me what ends you want and how long you want them, I can do it (within reason…100mm on each end is the max for most stuff)
Wow That’s interesting. any reason for the different charging ports?
I’ll let you know once I hear back from @Speedict about the Neptune 10 Wiring. The Neptune 15 has 2 kinds out there that’s confusing me a bit.
Haha just circumstance, I made each board at a different time with different parts so the newer ones are better built (new has fuse built into battery, old have fuse on the charger)
Yeah no worries, I’ll have them for custom order for a while
Danny got back to me pretty quick:
Im not bypassing the BMS so the battery isn’t going straight the VESC.
@love2scoot I noticed yours didn’t come with charge wires like @Eskate444 did
Can you confirm that yours is more like the diagram then what @Eskate444 has?
Yep, I have (2) Pack wires and (2) Load / Charge wires, just like the photo above.
It was time for me to update my wiring diagram. This is the current version:
I see thank you. So in my instance I would send the load and charge wires to both the Charge Port and VESC since I’m discharging right?
@Jc06505n I really like these diagrams that you’ve drawn for your board. I noticed you made this board as a project. And I’m doing something similar but for my A-levels. I was wondering how you made them. Thanks.
Like the Model ? I used Shapr 3D the Nese and Unity were imported.
