Neo Orca Build Log
This build is currently in the need of help. Please jump to the Needed Help Section if you would like to provide assistance please!
Table of Contents:
- Background and Intentions
- Part Log
- Spec Estimations
- Battery Assembly
- Securing Components
- Build Explanations
- VESC Settings
- Help Needed
Background and Intentions:
This build, price wise, is a disaster. It's a clusterfuck built on components of previous failures and my inability to properly managed money, planning, or have any sense of what a budget is. In terms of performance...we have no performance. It's an 20 30Q's cells in a 10s2p configuration due to space constraints, weight concerns, and in some sense laziness (the laziness of me not wanting to solder and having an easily reparable battery in case of a P Group Failure). This board is meant to accomplish the following:
- Allow for On-Demand monitoring and manual discharging of P Groups.
- Allow ease of access and maintenance of Battery Packs and Cells.
- Allow ease of upgrade of components.
- Serve as a project for Graduate School.
- Look good.
Due to the low milage, this is the perfect excuse to implement Push Assist. A means in which I can get more range than I normally would using a throttle (hypothetically). This Build Post will be linked to a thread dedicated to my attempts of implementing a Push Assist mode in the VESC Firmware.
The Color scheme will be the same as the Jet Orca: Black on top , White on the bottom.
|Neo One Deck||$257.78||@reloop19|
|Samsung 30Q (Quantity: 20)||$104.64||Liion Wholesale Batteries|
|Complete N.E.S.E 18650 (3x 2s3p 1x 2p)||$91.74||AM Tech 18650|
|Neptune 10 BMS||$XXX.XX||Speedict|
|Focbox Unity XT60 5.5mm Bullet Connector Upgrades||$243.50||Build Kit Boards Preorder|
|METR Pro UNITY||$56.16||METR Pro Group Buy|
|Hoyt St EL1 Drive||$799.00||Hoyt St Board|
|Hoyt St Puck Remote||$29.00||Hoyt St Board|
|Caliber II White/Gold 50° RKP 10" Trucks||$39.95||Amazon - Windy City Sports|
|Fiberglass Reinforcement & Paint Job Commissioned Work||$XXX.XX||XX|
Note: This is not meant to be a cost effective build by any means. It’s just something made to fulfill my desires, no matter how underperforming it may be for the price.
Build Choices Explanations:
Neo One Deck – Integrated Enclosures allows for ease of access and offers a 2 in one solution for where the components should go. Also I like the design.
Samsung 30Q – Reliable 18650 Batteries trusted by the community
Complete N.E.S.E 18650 (3x 2s3p 1x 2p) – No Solder solution for assembling batteries. Allows for easy servicing when doing maintenance on a P group. Allows for the replacement of individual bad cells with ease.
Neptune 10 BMS – Allows for Cell monitoring, Manual Discharge, Notifications, and Data Logging in a Good Looking UI.
Focbox Unity – Bought when they were first released.
Hoyt St EL1 Drive – Wanted a reliable Drivetrain with reliable motors.
Hoyt St Puck Remote – Wanted a reliable remote with speed modes and the ability to lock input.
Caliber II White/Gold 50° RKP 10" Trucks – De-facto Reliable good looking trucks.
Fiberglass Reinforcement & Paint Job Commissioned Work – I have concern about the quality and strength of this deck due to all the post about cracks and lines when arrived. Want to make sure that it won’t break on me during testing and riding.
Q1: I plan on bypassing the Switch on the Unity and use the Switch on the BMS since I want to ensure that the whole board is off when the power switch is pressed. (Note: I am using the BMS’s Discharging Feature. I am NOT Bypassing the BMS).
- Will the Push To Start feature savage anything in anyway?
- If I have the SHUTDOWN AFTER X feature on , what would happen when the Unity Shutdown but the BMS isn’t ?
Q2: Due to the battery configuration I’m using to achieve 10s2p, The negative and positive terminals are on the opposite ends of the battery with the negative terminal being in the back. I’m planning on using 9awg (excessive for the amount of amps I’m able to pull I know) running the negative terminal wire along the left wall of the board
- Will the longer distance (about 300mm) that the negative terminal wire has to run be an issue? Should I worry about resistance or anything like that?
- Any recommendations for clamps, channels, cable thrunks or anything of the sort that won’t break due to vibrations and ensure that the negative terminal wire will stay along left wall fo the board?