Neo Orca - Neo One Deck | 30Q 18650 10s2p | FOCBOX Unity | Hoyt St EL1 Belt Drive | Hoyt Puck Remote

Neo Orca Build Log

This build is currently in the need of help. Please jump to the Needed Help Section if you would like to provide assistance please!

Table of Contents:

Background and Intentions:

This build, price wise, is a disaster. It's a clusterfuck built on components of previous failures and my inability to properly managed money, planning, or have any sense of what a budget is. In terms of performance...we have no performance. It's an 20 30Q's cells in a 10s2p configuration due to space constraints, weight concerns, and in some sense laziness (the laziness of me not wanting to solder and having an easily reparable battery in case of a P Group Failure). This board is meant to accomplish the following:

  1. Allow for On-Demand monitoring and manual discharging of P Groups.
  2. Allow ease of access and maintenance of Battery Packs and Cells.
  3. Allow ease of upgrade of components.
  4. Serve as a project for Graduate School.
  5. Look good.

Due to the low milage, this is the perfect excuse to implement Push Assist. A means in which I can get more range than I normally would using a throttle (hypothetically). This Build Post will be linked to a thread dedicated to my attempts of implementing a Push Assist mode in the VESC Firmware.

The Color scheme will be the same as the Jet Orca: Black on top , White on the bottom.

Part Log:

Part Price Source
Neo One Deck $257.78 @reloop19
Samsung 30Q (Quantity: 20) $104.64 Liion Wholesale Batteries
Complete N.E.S.E 18650 (3x 2s3p 1x 2p) $91.74 AM Tech 18650
Neptune 10 BMS $XXX.XX Speedict
Focbox Unity XT60 5.5mm Bullet Connector Upgrades $243.50 Build Kit Boards Preorder
METR Pro UNITY $56.16 METR Pro Group Buy
Hoyt St EL1 Drive $799.00 Hoyt St Board
Hoyt St Puck Remote $29.00 Hoyt St Board
Caliber II White/Gold 50° RKP 10" Trucks $39.95 Amazon - Windy City Sports
Fiberglass Reinforcement & Paint Job Commissioned Work $XXX.XX XX
Sum $1,621.77

Note: This is not meant to be a cost effective build by any means. It’s just something made to fulfill my desires, no matter how underperforming it may be for the price.

Spec Estimations:

Render Fittings:

Battery Assembly:


Deck Dimensions for reference:

Securing Components:

Build Choices Explanations:

  • Neo One Deck – Integrated Enclosures allows for ease of access and offers a 2 in one solution for where the components should go. Also I like the design.

  • Samsung 30Q – Reliable 18650 Batteries trusted by the community

  • Complete N.E.S.E 18650 (3x 2s3p 1x 2p) – No Solder solution for assembling batteries. Allows for easy servicing when doing maintenance on a P group. Allows for the replacement of individual bad cells with ease.

  • Neptune 10 BMS – Allows for Cell monitoring, Manual Discharge, Notifications, and Data Logging in a Good Looking UI.

  • Focbox Unity – Bought when they were first released.

  • Hoyt St EL1 Drive – Wanted a reliable Drivetrain with reliable motors.

  • Hoyt St Puck Remote – Wanted a reliable remote with speed modes and the ability to lock input.

  • Caliber II White/Gold 50° RKP 10" Trucks – De-facto Reliable good looking trucks.

  • Fiberglass Reinforcement & Paint Job Commissioned Work – I have concern about the quality and strength of this deck due to all the post about cracks and lines when arrived. Want to make sure that it won’t break on me during testing and riding.

VESC Settings:


Needed Help:

Q1: I plan on bypassing the Switch on the Unity and use the Switch on the BMS since I want to ensure that the whole board is off when the power switch is pressed. (Note: I am using the BMS’s Discharging Feature. I am NOT Bypassing the BMS).

  1. Will the Push To Start feature savage anything in anyway?
  2. If I have the SHUTDOWN AFTER X feature on , what would happen when the Unity Shutdown but the BMS isn’t ?

Q2: Due to the battery configuration I’m using to achieve 10s2p, The negative and positive terminals are on the opposite ends of the battery with the negative terminal being in the back. I’m planning on using 9awg (excessive for the amount of amps I’m able to pull I know) running the negative terminal wire along the left wall of the board

  1. Will the longer distance (about 300mm) that the negative terminal wire has to run be an issue? Should I worry about resistance or anything like that?
  2. Any recommendations for clamps, channels, cable thrunks or anything of the sort that won’t break due to vibrations and ensure that the negative terminal wire will stay along left wall fo the board?




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Reserved for Thesis

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Wow, how did I miss this thread? :open_mouth: Was hoping you’d make one for your board :smiley:

Nothing to worry about, completely normal.

You should use foam to make sure components don’t move around in the enclosure, but the wires should be soldered well enough to the connectors and insulated to allow them to move / flex however they want without it affecting anything. I.e., I wouldn’t worry about it too much.


I accidentally posted it a few days ago and flagged it for enlisting since I wasn’t ready yet :sweat_smile: . Just had it unlisted yesterday.

Bet Bet Merci!

Yeah that’s the plan. Going to put foam at each crevice between the N.E.S.E Modules and the Deck Interior Walls and ensure they align with M3 Rods or suitable alternatives:

What I mean though was that I wanted to ensure that the negative terminal wire never touches the the caps by having the wire clamped to the side of the wall like so:

Where the Black wire highlights the black terminal wire and the red represents the clamps.

Though I suppose the foam will accomplish this while at the same time allowing free movement like you were saying. Yeah I think I’m going to go the foam route, thanks man.

One thing I’m worried though is about heat. Will the heat from the batteries be trapped by the foam?

I don’t want to use Neoprene since it seems to be flammable. I rather a foam that can accomplish the same tasks while not being flammable.

Your batteries are so flammable it doesn’t matter if the foam you use is or not :laughing: Some fishpaper between the wire and caps would be a good solution. Or just more foam. And you should not be using battery settings that heat the cells up significantly; so for a 2P 30Q, keep your battery amps at max 40A and you should be fine :+1:


Lol this concerns me a bit. Let’s say somehow the pack starts going up in flames, is there anything I can put in the compartment to slow or put out the flames? I’m thinking of putting fire retardant sheets surrounding the batteries. Bad idea?

Awesome!thank you will do. I know it’s low battery config for 30Q’s but I’m hopping Push Assist will make it worth it.

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You might not have space for fire retardant sheets / they might just trap heat inside the battery instead of letting it cool down by spreading to the surroundings, but it could work :man_shrugging:

But like, you’re already using a NESE pack; if balance wires short they’ll burn up anyway, and the chances of your main terminal wires shorting by means of something that won’t instantly burn up is close to zero. You’ve already got a safe battery :smiley:


Gotcha, then I won’t worry about it then. Thanks man. Going to order the N.E.S.E modules soon. Won’t expect them for about 2-3 months.

In other news, I’ll have to wait until next year Spring semester to start my thesis since I need a minimum of 18 credits. Should be enough time to get all the components minus the batteries. Hoping @Sender will be available by then to do some senderizing and fiberglass reinforcement. I don’t fully trust this deck as it is now.

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Using this from the Battery Basics for Beginners [Serious] Thread, a 42.0V 2A Charger should be good normal charger for the 10s2p 30Q configuration. (Maybe I’ll opt for 3A for 2 hour charging time) . So I’m thinking I should get a 7.5A fuse. Would this work ?

Fuse Holder:




Yep, they’ll work fine and be incredibly easy to replace if one ever blows.


Awesome merci! Wish the MINI Smart Glow Fuses were rated higher than 32V.

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Yeah those look very cool

They work at 12s :yum:

I use them on everything and no issues so far (except the one time I plugged the charger in backwards, surprisingly a 5A fuse popped :joy::joy:)

If you want I can make an inline plug and play fuse setup so you don’t have a ton of spare parts


Really? How? I’ve been reading up on batteries and fuses and thought a fuse needs to be the same or higher voltage as your rated battery system.

That would actually be amazing can I get a picture and dimensions of this plug and play fuse setup so I can model out how it’ll fit please?

I have one in my 12s charger, at 8A charge current the 10A fuse didn’t blow, and I got a shit ton up to 30A so I can always fudge the current up for high voltage applications

The minimum size is 12mm thick, 19mm wide, about 60mm long…but add 9mm width to use the waterproof cap, and the length can be longer depending on what you need. I can terminate in XT30, XT60, 5.5x2.5, and red 2 pin JST…or any mix, just state your need (2 pin is good for 3A, barrel is good for 5A, XT will excede the fuse)

This is the XT60 terminated one I use for my 12s 8A charger, using a 10A rated fuse

Edit: I can also do 3.5mm and 4.0mm bullets, or 3 pin JST (looks like 1.25mm pitch) or loose bread board type pins…not sure why you would want them, small profile I guess, but I got them anyways so they are also on the table

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Totally talking out my rear here, but I always figured the fuses voltage was just a part for the fuses wattage limit formula.

36v 5a fuse is good for 180w of power…

36v 7.5a fuse would be good for 270… Etc.

Say you’ve got a 50.4v (44.4 nominal) 3a charger, that would be 133w of current :man_shrugging:t2:

I’m hoping I can squeeze a 42v 5.71a charger with a 36v 7.5a fuse… Given what I wrote above is true, it should be safe :thinking:

Someone with a larger brain than I, please chime in and give me a verbal smack if I’m being misleading.

E: I’ve been fact checked

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Nice it should fit

Ah I see so your charge port has like a 5.5x2.5 to XT60 end to connect to this inline fuse right? (Just trying to capture a visual of the system,

So it’s not directly the power, but the heat dissipation…so W = I^2 * R…the voltage doesn’t play into how much heat is dissipated, it’s purely based on the current and the unit resistance of the fuse, the voltage affects the current but since it’s a limited current supply it doesn’t matter