I’m new to making a DIY electric longboard, got all the parts lined up or coming in but my main issue that’s stopping my build is the battery, it’s not knowing what kind I want but the budget, I’ve already spent well over 300$ on parts and honestly i don’t know what to do. A 10S3P would be really nice to have but the price is well over 300 or even 600$ I’m in desperate need of help, if a budget wasn’t the issue everything would’ve been smooth sailing and I wouldn’t be stressing over about it.
10s2p p42a
if u really wanna be cheap and still get a okish battery
Could also go the LiPo pouch route if budget’s seriously an issue. Won’t last as long and more difficult to package, but you can get 360Wh for less than $200 with 4 5Ah 5S batteries.
It’s a solid battery. Highly recommend. @Red_souls On the other hand, I have a cheap 10s2p battery for sale. $130 shipped with an “enclosure”.
What is your budget for the pack?
Yeah +1 on this, it’s also much easier and safer than welding one yourself. I think @xsynatic has a lipo pack that’s been in use for a long time, might be able to advise on what to buy and how to store/use them for best results
Buy Lipos.
2x https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/detail/145 in series. I use the same one on my trampa mountain board and they are amazing for the price.
Spend 40usd on a good bluetooth bms and get a charger for $20. about 220 usd all in for 300 watt hours.
You can make Lipos last 50 or 500 charge cycles just like lithium ions. Read this thread
and especially my long post here
Since I already spent well over 300 for the parts I’m at least trying to find a battery with 10s2p or if someone has a 3P for cheap I would rake that, highest I can go is 200 or 230$. My 4.12 FSESC takes a continuous charge of 50A, need one that has a BMS and a charge cable. If the battery issue gets resolved I’m good to go
*take
I wouldn’t be so sure about that, those little fuckers do not like 50A continuous. I think @b264 runs 20~30A? Someone else can give a more accurate answer
Not exactly. I just said that 30a battery should work by taking your word for it. I don’t fw flipshit.
They should be run under 25A for the best chance at not blowing up. Especially on a single drive.
30A could work as well?
Mine blew at 35 motor/25 battery
You could have a 200A battery but if the VESC can’t handle it will die. You set it to the weakest point in the system, whether that is the battery, VESC, or motor. Flipsky is known for exaggerating their currents.
I would go with whatever Brian runs them at (~25A)
Also running that at 50A in a single drive has a very good chance at overheating. Even at 25A it will get toasty.
So if I understand correctly, he can get the 30a battery, and program the VESC to only draw 20A and he’ll be fine? Right?
Yeah