Never would I have imagined a few years ago, when I started my DIY esk8 journey, I’d end up building a race track specific board. But here I am!
I’ve got a thirst for racing these things and want to get faster on the track. So far I’ve only done four race events and a single indoor kart track training session but I’m well and truly hooked. The ERL run in Perth is getting bigger and better and will offer a bigger schedule this year. https://www.electricracingleague.com.au/
I know I’ve got a lot to learn and plenty of room to improve my technique but I want a board that will give me the best chance to hone my skills and optimise performance.
Thankfully, @Tony_Stark has created some adaptors to enable use of Reacher motors with the narrow mounting pattern on some mounts.
I needed to increase the width between the motor mounts but luckily there was a little room to play with. I just needed to add a few washers to the crossbar brace. I should have about 3mm bewteen motors now when i add the adaptors.
It’s a 41 inch micro drop so wheel base is pretty short, intended to keep feet over the trucks as much as possible and using the tub to lock the feet laterally for a binding-like feel and not moving around much. Intended for short track with quick transitions
I noticed the Stooge Raceboard deck is really flat. Is that because using a front binding means you don’t need concave? On the other side of the spectrum you have decks that have pretty extreme concave like Psychotiller decks. Thoughts?
@fujio001 I’m not completely sure but have a few ideas. If using bindings then the shape of deck becomes less important as the binding helps with lean of deck. You can pull up with your toes on heel side turns and lean over a lot more on toe side turns.
Havings a concave makes it is easier to create lean of the deck as u can push on the edges more with you toes and heels.
I’ve not ridden the Raijin deck yet but like the fact it has a small but steep drop to hold my feet in position. I am considering using a Tomiboi ratcheting foot hook for the front but I’ll see how it goes.
As for the Stooge deck. It has the brace for the rear foot for hard acceleration. It has the metal frame to keep it super stiff and responsive I believe.
I am still learning so if i got any of that wrong, i apologise in advance haha
Yeah bindings eliminate alot of the need for deck curves. It is a matter of preference, in terms of what things people want to sacrifice. Alot of deck curve wears on your foot joints and fatigues them, while MTB bindings move around a lot (sacrificing response) and inhibit your ability to crash safely. I like the idea of just enough curve to do its job and using something like the tomiboi hook on the front.
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