3D printing some custom motor mounts to satisfy my impatience:
These are only temporary. A proof of concept if you will. I’ve stolen @ZachTetra idea for a Vernier indexing system. Although not really necessary as my mounts will only ever be in one position, I just had to try it out.
If you sell these I expect soda money as royalties 
What hole pattern count on each sides is it?
I wasnt thinking of selling them, but if thats something you’d be okay with (with appropriate compensation of course.) Ill have a think later down the line
It’s 16 & 20. Took me a good few minutes to wrap my head around how that equates to 80 positions but I got it eventually. I honestly dont see why it hasnt become the mainstream for adjustable motor mounts. It eliminates the tradeoff between size/strength/adjustability very elegantly.
Your drunk ass never got back to me!
This nickel is a tad undersized for what you’re planning, bruv. Unless of course you plan on building bus bars with the nickel which is gonna take you a very long time… ask me how I know lol. Even still, that nickel will run hot if you pull even modest amps across your pack.
Will that spot welder do 0.15mm nickel? If so, I’d source some 25 or 30mm in that thickness or the stuff they fabricate that’s already cut into bus bars.
Yes, it will take 9A, or maybe 15A peak. You could maybe get away with soldering a series wire for every cell, to split the currents in half, but it will still be hard to avoid hot spots.
@Common_good @Flyboy After some discussions in battery builders I realised the whole design of the pack is a failure waiting to happen. So I’m trying to find some 30mm x 0.15mm Nickel as seems to be the standard 
While I procrastinate finishing the deck and wait for more battery building supplies Im focusing on the motor mounts.
I 3D printed some ABS prototypes and put together the board:
It’s 2AM so I should probably go to sleep now…
Finally getting back to working on the deck. Its taken a while to get the motivation back. That, combined with Christmas, a godawful fever and flu that has lasted two weeks now, and a series of exams, have absolutely crippled me this month.
But it’s 2023 now! Happy new year everyone. Fingers crossed this is the year that Nagini comes to life 
A few weeks ago I applied the wood dye to the back of the deck, just for some practice. As you can see there are some blemishes as it was a bit of a rush job, I was marginally wankered, and I forgot to give it a quick sanding first. So I’m planning to sand it back and give it another go:
Last week I made some progress: after the blowtorch and shit shading incident, I was left with patchy linework, shoddy shading on the compass points, and no scales through the majority of Nagini’s body. I couldn’t seem to sand back all of the blowtorch marks or the areas where I’d accidentally gone too deep with the burner, without stripping the whole thing back to a fresh slate. I figured I’d salvage what I’ve got and find a way to hide my mistakes.
I started by reburning the block shading on the compass points. This took a good few hours. I then spent a number of hours sketching out the scaffolding for the scales to get them proportioned somewhat correctly:
Because I had too much coffee today in an attempt to combat my awful fatigue, I haven’t been able to sleep. Instead, it’s almost 7AM now and I’ve spent the last 5 and a half hours fixing the linework and redoing the scales while listening to a Vice documentary about psychedelic frogs:
As you can see, I’ve changed my method of shading (definitiely not to hide all my fuck ups) and I’m really happy with how it’s starting to look. There was a phase after I had re-outlined the scales that I was stsrting to wonder whether this whole thing was a mistake, but now things are going in the right direction.
The next steps are as follows:
It’s gonna happen bruv so I think the key is just to expect it and be as zen as u can about the inevitability. Your first build is a steeeep learning curve. I just about binned my first diy a half dozen times for that reason and that was after already building a bkb kit.
It’s all part of the journey, mate
Don’t scare me like that! It’s slowly but surely getting there. Being as patient and careful as possible to avoid binning it…
Patience is a virtue, so they say 
You’ll be just fine if u work with the expectation that problems will occur as will frustration. Ultimately, when u finally finish it the sense of accomplishment is just that much more profound.
Siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick 
It’s a snake you goof.
Sssssssssssssssssssssssssick!
@Flyboy @Venom121212 cheers fellas. Doing the woodstain today, will post a progress update later. Stay tuned!
Also, I’ve decided against glass frit. Spar urethane is really expensive so even though clear grip will look a bit crap, it will be cheaper and there’s less chance of me screwing it up.
I can send you some in a ziplock baggie lol
Anything else available to you? Epoxy works even better for frit IMO.
Haha not sure how well that would work.
I suppose I could use epoxy but I was under the impression it produces a hard coating which I’d imagine is prone to cracking? Whatever the glass frit substrate is, I’d want to finish the entire deck with, because it’s currently just bare wood
You would use a laminating epoxy, same as you would for fiberglass. They do cure hard, but since they are designed for an elongation-at-break greater than glass, they can keep up with deck flex. Consider that there are carbon decks out there made with the stuff, that basically act like trampolines
My builds are deck-> epoxy → frit → epoxy → spar urethane x2 for UV resistance
I was hoping to have a finished deck for show but life got in the way this evening. Since I promised an update, here is Nagini in all her beauty so far:
I’m super stoked with how it’s coming along. It is exactly what I had envisioned!
As you can see, I sanded down the back and re-stained it. It is much more uniform now.
I got sloppy with the surface prep on the front side though because I was too excited to see it come together, so there are some blotchy patches I’ll need to sand off and re stain. I’m hoping I can get away with just redoing small sections without there being any disparity in colour or surface finish to the bits I am not going to sand…
Some of the stain leaked into the pyrography so I’ve had to file it down in those areas and will need to reburn some sections. This shouldn’t take too long.
