My torque is non-existent

To me that sounds like a case of “settings too high”

In my case even at lower currents it would overheat, with no airflow in a small enclosure and with no mass to soak the heat I’m not surprised it throttled that hard

There was a day that had really strong head wind and it thermal throttled in the flat

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Upgrading my motors from 6355 to 6374 made my trampa vescs about 15°C hotter, doing roughly the same speeds on the same commute. Larger motor definetly works up the esc more, as a start

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I’m with b264 you useing better motors that can now take more amps and 4.12 VESC can’t handle the load/volt drop. I couldent push 40amps thro VESC4 60A thay have no chance and you battry pack can’t take 120A with out huge voltdrop

What are the motor KV?

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Definitely got to upgrade either the ESC to a TB6 (probably with an additional heatsink) and/or dual motor. It’s most likely thermal throttling. Unfortunately, it is a common issue with the v4.12 on a single motor setup.

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Sorry I presumed it was dule drive

Are the TB6 on sale already?

On sale no, for sale yes. Send torqueboards an email.

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Any way to check voltage sag on the pack?

He doesn’t need a bluetooth, granted, they’re good to have. He need to change those settings and all will be well. This is clearly overheating and poor component selection

I’m waiting to have this issue confirmed and resolved, and then we should all take a moment to review the way we as a community gave advice here.
Always start with basics. Props to Zachtetra for reaching out and helping him. But some of the recommendations being made here are downright stupid, especially for a “first” thing to check.

Always get all the info, some pictures and start there. If a user can’t tell you what components they’re using, the chances of a user error occurring in setup or configuration is super high.

Our advice should not be to check P groups or tear the board apart until we have a thorough understanding of the situation.

A mechanic doesn’t start replacing parts on an engine that won’t start. He starts with inspection and then checking for air, fuel and spark. Start simple or you’ll waste you time and your money.

Getting the battery info and parameters was all we needed. He’s over the input amp limits of the VESC, and we need zero equipment to know that a 4.12 with no heatsink, running over max settings driving a 6374 is overheating. Change parameters to what myself and @b264 recommended and go ride while you save up for a new vesc. Consider going to dual motors too.

Even if you get a brand new VESC 6.6 from TB, you’ll probably start overheating the motor if you wanna run that high of settings on a single at that speed uphill. It’s a lot for a single drive with an adult rider, and it’s a pretty fast speed to consider what a single drive can do to slow you down.

60 amps is a lot for any Vesc on the market in this config. As @torqueboards said, you may still need a heatsink.

If you really need proof, go for a ride and feel the enclosure where the vesc is or open it up quickly after a ride. OR, don’t shut it off and go plug it in, you can probably see the error in the logs

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We dropped the battery current already

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A lot of folks say this — but in my experience, single drive with a 6374 or larger, preferably a 6380+, is more than adequate and works great on the rear heelside. Just not with a 4.12 VESC which will overheat right away and a heatsinking is nigh impossible with the FETs and PCB layout.

Obviously dual drive has a lot of benefits, but single drive can have a lot of benefits as well. Half the weight, half the stuff to go wrong, half the cost, less waste heat (slightly higher range) … and — when done right — tremendous performance.

Other than that, everything Bill said…

To what number? What were the results?

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I think 40A?

40A is still too high for a 4.12. Lower it to 15A or 20A for troubleshooting. If that works you can creep it back up.

Oh jeez you guys run it low, I’ve been using a FS 4.12 at 45A for a while now

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I had two flipsky 4.2 that’s are heatsinked that would get to 65* routinely when I began running a 10S3P up from 2p and it was only at 22 per side.

No heat sink 4.12 I expect to overheat above 25 A continuous. And that may even be too high

You have to think of it like this, uphill it’s pulling those continuous amps the whole time. And he’s trying to hit 30 uphill so he’s clearly pinned. If it was just occasionally mashing the throttle on flat ground sure. But uphill, no way. I agree with @b264 about what single drive can do, but this guys riding style seems like it may be a challenge for him to accomplish given his speeds and terrain.

We still haven’t heard his weight, gearing, tire diameter etc. this problems even worse if he’s a 200lb rider with 16/36 gearing on cloud wheels.

We need all the info. Period.

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Okay I’ll ask him to test much lower battery current

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16:36 90mm 140lbs

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Still missing vital information

16-36 90mm is high in my opinion. Iv got a 12-36 80mm on a dule drive for blasting up hills.
(I wouldn’t recommend 12T on a single drive can see belt slip issues)

30A ish with out heat sinks is ok but you will start to hit thermal limits if you push it up hills

I would question if a vesc6 3 shunt design could cope with 60A up a hill for 10min I’d exspect you would need extra cooling unless you want to cook a egg on you motors and vesc at the top of the hill for breakfast :fried_egg:

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