damn I wanted to pick up a set 
oh well, money saved
My tomiboi hub front wheels started clicking recently too, and the bearings are totally fine. It’s a bit annoying but it is what it is 
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@MBS any idea what’s up with Raf’s loose bearing pocket? The ones on my non-XL version have been solid.
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Stating the obvious, it appears that one bearing seat is slightly oversized. We’d be happy to replace under warranty when they’re back in stock. The only issue is they’re still a month or so out.
In the meantime I’d check your bearing spacer. If the length is slightly too long it could be making the clicking noise worse. You can try running without the spacer on that one hub to see if that helps. The only difference between running with and without spacers is that you need to pay attention to not overtighten your axle nut when you run without spacers. Tighten it down, then back it off until your wheel spins freely (no default lateral load on bearings).
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Dangit really.
I had thought if these kept failing I would probably transition to Hubbas.
My 2 sets are fine so far.
But the Khymera doesn’t get a ton of miles.
You may consider adding bit of loctite or maybe super glue to the outside of the bearing and pop it back in an let it set.
That worked for me back in the day with one of my Six Shooter Hubs that clicked like this.
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hey Joel.
Thanks for chiming in.
I ordered a pair of the regular Pros earlier to get back to running pretty again.
So no hurry on the warranty.
I the spacers look right to me.
But I will go give it a try without them.
I had not had a chance to try different bearings yet.
I was about to suggest you guys sell proper fitting spacers only to realize that you do!!!
I wish I had ordered them with the other hubs.
I any case.
Going to put it back together and give it a try and report back.
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Yeah, we just put some spacers up on our site. But your spacer looks fine. As you said, I’d still try running without them, but only in the name of science, and as a temporary noise avoidance solution. Long term, submit a claim on our site and we’ll send a replacement when they come back in stock.
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Appreciate it 
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For the past twenty five years, no. But I’ve come around to understanding why using them is the industry standard, and for the past few months, prior to releasing ours I’ve been riding them. I do like being able to crank the axle nut down all the way without thinking about it. And as long as the length is perfect they make everything feel super solid.
If you can’t beat 'em, join 'em, right?
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Welp.
I went and did 5.7 miles with no spacers and the nut snug.
And there was no clicking.
So that is good.
Let’s see how it does on a longer ride!!!
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Good to hear you’ve found at least a temporary fix for your unwanted clicks. Looking forward to future updates.
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Not on Aus site 
Link for US
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Ooops. Will be up on Aus site soon…
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Since the Hub seemedb to run fine last night I decided to go ahead and add some red loctite to that bearing…
I expect this may minimize any play it may have in there.
And I can run it a bit longer, until I get a replacement in.
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That’s what retaining compound is for (648)
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Yeah yeah, I know.
I have that one too. And pondered using it.
But I like how the red is a bit more viscous.
So I wanted to use that…
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So yep. Vescing the Pint X yesterday was really cool.
It was the first time I had actually built with somebody.
I have had people hang around while I built before.
But I had never had a real collaboration like I had yesterday.
Daniel is the guy I ran into a while back that had a Vesc on a Pint platform. And he has the 22s Growler Vesc now, so he is quite experienced and capable builder.
I had the Pint X in it’s normal as state yesterday morning and had it Vesced and other updates by late afternoon.
The current updates on the PX were the Kush Nug Hi in the back, and the Hoosier slick recommended by @TheBoardGarage which was a great tire.
And I had peeled the plastic up front and added TFL grip tape.
Yesterday I added the Lil Foccer.
Flipsky XV1 remote.
And Enduro because I really like the Enduro on my GT and I liked the Pint Enduro on Daniels Growler.
lifesavers because I like the look…
And 2mm padded grip tape up front which is really nice.
Oh. And I got a broken Pint controller and box to harvest so I can keep the ones from mine intact.
I don’t really do much new in esk8, just mostly the same stuff over and over and it’s just usually bolting parts together, so I am pretty comfortable with most projects I take on and have a good vision.
With this Onewheel there were a lot of unknowns and new things to do, and new things to learn, which was both exciting and intimidating.
Like getting the motor and foot pad hooked up to the Foccer.
Sketchy…
Tiny soldering…
I harvested the board and plugs from the old Pint controller and Daniel soldered the little wires to it.
I would have had a really hard time doing this…
Taking the PX apart is fun. I really enjoy the design and how FM put it all together.
I am just using the stock PX battery with the BMS bypassed, which luckyly was super easy to do!!!
I would like to try to go higher voltage. Not sure what I could cram here.
Maybe a 17S2P with 18650s.
I hope Joey’s BMS becomes more regularly available in the future.
So we hook the battery up to the new box.
The Pint box had plenty of room for the lil foccer. And I got to tap something for the first time ever.
We tapped the box to bolt the little foccer down.
And the box is a heat sink.
I put fish paper all around.
And then we put the hub back with the rails to run detection.
We hook up over Bluetooth using the app on my Samsung phone.
Connection seemed really solid.
And we start detection.
And we come up Sensorless.
F#$k!!!
So we take off the front foot pad, and the cool thing is we can open up the box with the rails on.
And we get going with the multimeter.
And sure enough one of the 3 hall sensor wires was not getting connectivity through the board.
And this amazing, but Daniel is able to solder it to another spot on the board right behind where the motor connector comes in.
To a tiny little pin.
AND IT WORKS!!!
I would have never been able to do that…
But dude has lots of soldering experience.
And I cake that board with super glue to keep the tiny wires in place.
And here is the first picture of the PXVX alive!!!
Here is the other big deal here.
I don’t even know how long it would have taken me to learn and figure out how to set up and tune the lil foccer.
Holy shit, there was a lot going on.
But again, Daniel did all the heavy lifting.
And I just sat there with my jaw dropped.
After a million screens on the app he tells me it’s good to go and I hopped on it.
And it worked.
And it felt like a Onewheel,
And it felt totally Familiar.
Note I even broke out the Fox proframe, because new little death box means all the gear.
But is sure worked.
Daniel checked it out and fixed a couple more things.
I think he set me up with the standars float package and I have ATR on.
So we went and rode for 5 miles and It worked the whole time and I lived.
Daniel got it up to 20.
I think I only did 18.5
But it only had 80% battery when we started…
I made it up this grass hill I would not have looked at on the PX.
Besides that I did not push it very hard.
Oh, it handled going down steep hills amazingly. Like perfect control.
The tire is nice.
The padded grip tape is nice.
Al @glyphiks I thought about what you said a lot while doing this.
It’s a sin to take apart a perfectly working board.
But man.
So far so good.
And it certainly seems like quite an upgrade.
I got a full charge and went out again today despite it being freaking cold 38f 3c. And windy as hell.
And I did 7 miles.
Once again in full armor.
And I survived.
Today I got to 19.8
Pretty sure I had not hit 18 on the PX.
When the battery gets lower the push back comes on pretty early.
But I felt very confident in the ride the whole time.
And the way it feels is nice.
And I have not even got into tuning.
So, pumped.
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Is it not the case, that the way you bypassed the BMS there, bridging those positive posts of the XT60, disables its ability to cut charging for abnormal conditions like overvoltage, undervoltage, etc.?
Far as I know, FM BMSs switch on the high side, and bypassing that path bypasses the charge protections.
Or is the Pint X BMS different? I’m not entirely familiar with the nuances of that particular model.
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