Could happen due to an inductive load creating a voltage spike? Idk.
But the motors should be fine as the phase wires just disconnect and not further touch each other to cause them to short and with it stop the motors.
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I haven’t TBH so not sure, what will happen though, is I’ll have an unpowered board.
If there’s a concern for the ESC’s survival, then maybe I should add caps ESC side?
I’ve unplugged mine under load when I accidentally hit the throttle off the board and it shot off for a couple of meters, disconnecting in the process.
At the end of each commute I also routinely unplug the board with the ESCs still powered, to remove any chance of accidental activation or external interference.
I’ve never done it under full load though, but I would imagine it’ll never disconnect under full load, because for the split second before the cable rips out, weight will be removed from the board e.g. me coming off.
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That’s true.
This is what Freefly wrote about it:
Always connect the motor and any wiring with the DC power disconnected! Never attach or disconnect a motor when the drive is powered up. Damage to the hardware may occur.
How would putting caps ESC side effect the output? No difference than without?
I imagine with caps at both ends of the phase wires there would be some losses? At either end for that matter 
electronics noob here.
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Hypothetically in my mind, the concern was for what happens to electricity in the cables (that travel at the speed of light) when it disconnects, so lizard-brain said “Protect the ESCs!”, hence that response from me.
Thinking about it more though, I’m not sure it’ll matter. I mean how do the ESCs handle changes in power flow anyway? They’re designed for changing loads, and disconnecting without the phases ever having a chance to touch, is ultimately just another load change?
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Okay, but I’m using HobbyWing R/C car ESCs that’re specced for 160A constant and 1050A maximum output each.
i.e. The intended application and manufacturer is different, as is the scenarios for failure it was designed for.
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Ive got a retractable power cable coming from my backpack to keep slack out of the wheels. Its connected to a super heavy duty Key-Back. Everything unplugs if you were to fall… no damages to anything.
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Nice! Link to the Key-Back and pics of the installation?
Yours has a battery board side as well though, so the changes to the ESCs conditions is not so severe as if phases disconnected under load, if it’s even felt by the ESCs at all.
I dont have a perfect picture of the system but its something I’ve refined over the years with this system.
Boardside- Xt90 connector on a hinge to allow for movement.
Backpack side- Xt90 that plugs to the backpack
Keyback is connected to the power wire about 1/4 of the power wire is held up for slack. There is also a steel wire holding the keyback to the backpack in case of an over extension which unplugs all of the ports without damaging the keyback.
I’ll take pictures tonight…
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How is the Key-Back connected, to the tip of the cable?
The main housing of the Keyback is connected to the backpack, the extending part is connected about 1/3 or 1/4 down the length of the power cable.
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How do you prevent the Key-Back from unplugging the XT90?
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Key-BAK Heavy Duty SECURIT… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y3YLGPB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s a 13oz pull weight. So the cable is maybe 3 ounces or so… I’ve never had a situation where the key back pulls the connector out. You just have to keep your connectors new. I’ve had this board for 2 years and only replaced the connectors 1 time because it was a bit too loose.
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So like me, you also rely on the friction to lock it in place. I’ve found the friction on dual MT60’s to be way more than enough.
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Yea friction makes a pretty solid connection. You really don’t want any resistance if you need to bail.
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https://esk8-news-objects.s3.dualstack.us-east-1.amazonaws.com/uploads/original/3X/4/3/431d066aa3d1902af05d97106cd9a43b4e403618.MOV
^video of falling demo
This should clarify @malJohann
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Stealth conversion complete. The photo where the top is open and reflective elastic bands are keeping it from fully zipping open, is how it’ll be for now during operation.
Currently the ESC mounting plate is hanging from a hydration pack loop on the inside. Complete integration coming just as soon as I have a 3D printer.
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And how do you deal with the cooling?
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