Note kicktail will not fuction as a wheelie bar 
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Glad you know how to fall, and we were cruising slowly, when you besmirched the pavement with kicktail fiberglass, and some cotton. 
Level 4 can be surprising when getting back on the throttle on the Mini.
Its new ESC initiates acceleration a lot smoother after coasting, but level 4 still surprises me.
Probably did my longest manual yet today on it, but it was completely unintentional.
Also, the brakes with this new esc are insanely strong, all the way down to a full stop, and have a parking brake too.
It got some Zealous bearings in the front 105’s today as one of the 4 Meepo bearings was all noisy and rough.
On the desk in front of me, I want to secure the wiring more tightly and blue tape the full gasket back on and sharpie it black.
it was the chariot tow vehicle tonight and we got 4.7 miles out of that 10s1p eve 40PL with its tires at about 4.7PSI. Super soft ride for Fiona’s sore mammaries.
0.4 of those miles was cruising the crushed shell trail, which has a bunch of new Uncrushed shells insections that were chewing up urethane and battery alike. Fiona prefers to not walk the trail anymore, except to squat and hunch.
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I saw few cars in the parking lot by this trail so we rolled it yesterday, and indeed had it to ourselves.
Our third stop today.
There were Dolphin corralling some fish up against the seawalls. This one would come in low and ahead of the school of mullet and blow a bubble, and then three more would corral them into this little hook below our feet and gorge.
Then we rolled here, an I pulled out the Portacharger and set it to 5 amps, and strapped it to my deck and chilled out for a few more minutes before heading south.
Later On I removed the Mini’s hub motor sleeves and then the guppy’s newish Puaida 105mm motor sleeves. I put the newish sleeves on the Mini, and the Guppy got a new pair of Puaida sleeves.
The Mini lost some torque, inconsequentially, as I still only put it on level 4 when I am not carving 8’s close to home.
It rides so much smoother over the paver cracks.
The Mini is so dang fun.
I’ll be doing something and get the urge to go carve and generate some breeze. Jump on the mini, rack up a dozen figure 8’s then head down wind, then full speed run upwind lifting shirt to catch the breeze, then charge into the garage at speed and slam the brakes and stop with plenty to spare.
I also flipped the Kendas on the Fivestars, as with a significant amount of positive camber built into the hanger, the inside of the tire was wearing faster.
I tried balancing them not with weights, but by rotating the tire on the rim, trial and error style and got it pretty close. One full size balancing weight is too much on one wheel, and the other still needs some love. I will be getting another set of Kenda k473s when these are done for. They have been great tires.
We hit up another park afterwards and racked up another 6 mile for about 18 total together, I put about 4 miles on the Mini solo.
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Getting hot here in SW Florida, and my hub motors are getting really hot.
I raised the kenda PSi and the Chariot tire PSI, to little difference at the end of a run, temp wise, but I definitely have more range and top speed.
I made this dual 50x20mm 12v Delta fan a while back, well before I got into esk8, but as high rpm as these fans are, they would eat a lot of wH at high speed and were not really flowing much, compared to a 60mm 25mm thick fan, so they had not seen much use.
But today i brought them and a half charged 3s1p battery to power them.
The first park stop at 1.3 miles does not get the motors or hanger beyond warm, but I busted out the fan aimed it at the hanger and was pleasantly surprised how quickly they cooled back down towards ambient. We rolled pretty fast and got the motors hot again and stopped back in teh same park, and I busted out the fans again as soon as the Esk8 and Fiona swapped positions in teh chariot. Again I was pleasantly surprised how even their limited airflow cooled the motors. The 2.0AH battery quit prematurely, but Fiona was content on some cooler concrete so I decided to bust out the Portacharger, even though I had more than enough juice to get home.
The Portacharger’s 24v fan attached to the Booster heatsink is a new addition. I dialed up portacharger to nearly 8 amps, which is likely closer to 8.2 amps as this wattmeter is off, but it is consistently and comparatively off.
The heatsink inside is thick aluminum and the exposed finned heatsink take a while to heat up, but once it gets hot it really gets hot, finger burning hot, and I lower the 8 amps to 6 and then to 5 and maybe again to less than that. not only for the Booster temperature, but the eve 7s2p also was getting too hot.
I did not have my IR temp gun on me, but I was feeling the booster’s finned heatsink and battery temperature often, and the finned heatsink barely got above 100F in my estimation, So I left it at 8 amps output
To my surprise the battery compartment also stayed far cooler than I am used to, so I left it at 8 amps output, until the BMS cut power. i have never been able to leave it at 8 amps start to finish before, as it would always get too hot.
When I lowered the output in stages on previous uses, the wattmeter will read a max of 3.7 amp hours delivered and about 152 watt hours. Today, at 8 amps continuous output, this was reduced to 3.36 amp hours and 135 watt hours, but the 7s2p also rebounded to 22.6v, where at lesser rates it would rebound to 21.1 to 21.3v.
I did not expect the battery to run cooler too as the fan is on the opposite end, and I have a thermal ( convective and radiated) barrier between the booster and the battery, but the Booster ran far cooler.
The 24v fan draws 0.1 amps, and I started the discharge at 29.1 volts, not 29.4v, which makes the delivered Ah and Wh figures even more impressive, comparatively.
The Booster Fan is also blowing into the heatsink, the blades in partial stall due to airflow resistance. I intend to raise it a MM or two to move impeller away from the resistance and allow the air to escape radially, and not just sideways through the fins.
These hub motors are 10 months old and have at least 3k miles on them, and i figure they must have higher temp magnets, as the outer sleeve cap will measure 171F, so the magnets must be considerably hotter, yet these motors seem as powerful as when i first got them.
But I am riding further and faster now and sinking heat from the motors is fairly high on my to do list. the small 50MM fan duo was surprisingly effective, just aimed at the hanger from 5.5 Cm away. I can definitely improve the active fan based hub motor/hanger cooling, as today was just an quick experiment which proved far more effective than expected. The outer sleeve caps are always the hottest, and were not even in direct fan flow. I expect I can ride harder and cool the motors far quicker during the park breaks or the squat and sniff breaks.
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I received 24 Murata VTC6 3000mah 30/15 amp overstock cells form battery hookup. I spazzed out when I saw the email saying they were $1.12 each and ordered within the hour, and they were sold out a few hours after that.
November 2024 build date. They were all 3.4980v +/- 0.002v, which seems suspiciously close.
I marked them all, recorded their voltages, and put them all in parallel for 2 days and will check their self discharge in a few days.
14 will be made into a new 7s2p to go inside my portacharger, the other 10, I don’t know yet.
I really like rolling with the portacharger attached and trying to hold voltage above 41.5v. Torque and top speed are up, Spicy throttle, and I get at least 4 miles of range before the portacharger depletes and the normal discharge begins.
The Eve 35v 7s2p I built with 0.2mm copper gets too hot at 8 amps output from 29.4 to 18.74v, So that’s why I got the Muratas. I was coveting the 30PL/JP30/30XG for this, but those cells are kind of overkill for this task, and too rich for my blood.
The 105mm Puaida Donut hub motor sleeves are good I was very happy with the additional comfort. I wore one set flat, and ordered two more sets., and these are now on both my boards. I had one set of Meepo 105mm donut sleeves I did not like as much, ride wise, and I did not like how they were cast onto plastic and not aluminum.
I have been in contact with Meepo and they are no longer using plastic. I asked them about their 60A duro rubber 107mm Cyclone sleeves / and wheels.
I was confused as they said the hub motor kit came with two rubber wheels and two PU sleeves. I was like are the sleeves rubber or urethane, Do the sleeves have holes too?
They are rubber and hopefully they make their website less confusing in this regard.
They sent me a 10% discount code and I have ordered these 2 pairs of sleeves and one set of front wheels, which they say fit Kegel.
Hopefully they arrive quickly without tariff BS, like the baseplate I ordered did.
60A rubber with the holes might be the ticket for hub motors which do not ride too harsh. I’ll lose some range but can always carry more battery.
I need to order some riptide pivot cups too.
The Mini has been a delightful carving machine, and quad jellifyier.
I wonder how quickly the rubber will wear out compared to urethane, how it will feel when carving, compared to urethane, and I also wonder about the weight.
I rotated my Kendas k473’s side to side in the park today, but they are pretty well worn. Need to order new ones and have them ready. Wish the FiveStar rims were a bit wider, but oh well.
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Getting hot rolling through the jungle.
Gotta acclimate.
I got these Meepo 540 hub motors 11+ months ago and they went through the whole summer with the plastic cored Meepo 105 donut wheels. I then got the Aluminum cored 105mm Puaida motor sleeves, and was a bit alarmed hot how the outer sleeve cap was getting.
After a fairly aggressive roll on a hot day the outer caps were measuring 174.5f/79/7C on the bench. The inner bearing cap about 10-13F less.
I got these LED paddlewheel style heatsinks late last year, and attached and cut them down today. They were much wider, and I spun up the motors and lowered a hacksaw blade onto them, and then used a flap sander on an angle grinder to round them out somewhat.
I am not sure if these caps are powder coated or painted, but it is thick and I spend a long time with 180 and 600 grit on a wet piece of glass to remove the black color and flatten it. The heatsink is anodized black and I started removing the paint and saw how it was not really flat.
I need to countersink these screw heads and will apply some JB weld, and try and make nice fillets.
I’ll also round over the fins edges to reduce the ankle shredder factor.
I will repaint it flat black.
Not sure how effective these will be. a 150f magnet is 5-7% less powerful than a 75F magnet.
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Oh yea, I had same issues with hub motors in summer while I lived in Turkey.
Sometimes I would just rub the motor caps with hand sanitizer gel, it would evaporate quickly and drop the temperature a few degrees 
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I hadn’t thought of liquid cooling. I do keep some hand sanitizer in the first aid kit in Fiona’s chariot.
I have to assume these hub motors use higher temperature magnets, as if these were regular temperature they would have lost their power 3000 miles ago, last summer.
While I have these aluminum hub covers on the bench for paddlewheel heatsinks, I returned the Meepo motor donut 105mm sleeves, worn to about 97mm, that these motors came with, which are cast onto plastic. There is an open center portion of the hubs usually covered by the outer sleeve cover, and I sharpied this black.
After a roll I touch this sharpied black portion and it is super hot, but my IR gun reads only 140f. I aim the IR gun at the inner bearing cap and am seeing higher temperatures there than I have ever seen, 171 to 176F, yet to my fingers it feels far cooler than the sharpied black area inside the plastic.
To me this is a direct indication the aluminum cored sleeves with the Hub covers are sinking a lot of the rotor/magnet heat.
The Aluminum sleeve covers are always the hottest, but when I was setting the cruise control at 30MPH on the bench. and lowering the hack saw blade to cut the heatsinks down to size, and then I’d stop, and feel for heating, and the heatsink was far far cooler than the inner bearing cover, despite the Friction from cutting. This gives me great expectations that when rolling the centrifugal fan effect reaching out into passing air will be really effective. Perhaps delusional expectations, but I have enough IR gun readings, and enough of a rolling/route pattern, that any differences post heatsink, should be quite obvious.
I have countersunk the screw heads and JB Welded the heatsinks to the sleeve caps over 24 hours ago, and just need to give it a clean and hit it with some flat black paint and return them to service.
Am very interested in the IR temp gun readings afterwards.
The worn Meepo plastic cored sleeves ride so mush more rough and noisy than my newish Puaida sleeves, but they use noticeably less battery. I can also get going faster when towing Fiona on the smooth surfaces, but acceleration and brakes do not feel all that much spicier with the lesser diameter.
I am also eager to feel how the ‘cyclone’ 107mm rubber hub motor sleeves feel, when those arrive.
It looks like Meepo is using a different style hub motor on their newer boards, than what I have, and say they are higher wattage, but the same top speeds.. these use the same sleeves as my motors so at least it seems that unobtanium replacement sleeves are an anxiety I can not worry about for a while.
These worn meepo sleeves ride so much worse over obstacles / sidewalk cracks, I find myself stepping well forward putting more weight on my pneumatics, which are now showing some bald spots in the center. I have 2 new Kenda k473’s ordered.
I have a couple more ideas to pull heat out of the motors via the hanger, but will see how the paddlewheel ankle shredders do first.
I ran these motors all through last summer with the plastic cored sleeves, and if they were gonna cook, they should have cooked then, so maybe these efforts are pointless. I have a bit more battery and can ride a bit harder for longer now, so perhaps the efforts will not be in vain.