Note kicktail will not fuction as a wheelie bar 
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Glad you know how to fall, and we were cruising slowly, when you besmirched the pavement with kicktail fiberglass, and some cotton. 
Level 4 can be surprising when getting back on the throttle on the Mini.
Its new ESC initiates acceleration a lot smoother after coasting, but level 4 still surprises me.
Probably did my longest manual yet today on it, but it was completely unintentional.
Also, the brakes with this new esc are insanely strong, all the way down to a full stop, and have a parking brake too.
It got some Zealous bearings in the front 105’s today as one of the 4 Meepo bearings was all noisy and rough.
On the desk in front of me, I want to secure the wiring more tightly and blue tape the full gasket back on and sharpie it black.
it was the chariot tow vehicle tonight and we got 4.7 miles out of that 10s1p eve 40PL with its tires at about 4.7PSI. Super soft ride for Fiona’s sore mammaries.
0.4 of those miles was cruising the crushed shell trail, which has a bunch of new Uncrushed shells insections that were chewing up urethane and battery alike. Fiona prefers to not walk the trail anymore, except to squat and hunch.
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I saw few cars in the parking lot by this trail so we rolled it yesterday, and indeed had it to ourselves.
Our third stop today.
There were Dolphin corralling some fish up against the seawalls. This one would come in low and ahead of the school of mullet and blow a bubble, and then three more would corral them into this little hook below our feet and gorge.
Then we rolled here, an I pulled out the Portacharger and set it to 5 amps, and strapped it to my deck and chilled out for a few more minutes before heading south.
Later On I removed the Mini’s hub motor sleeves and then the guppy’s newish Puaida 105mm motor sleeves. I put the newish sleeves on the Mini, and the Guppy got a new pair of Puaida sleeves.
The Mini lost some torque, inconsequentially, as I still only put it on level 4 when I am not carving 8’s close to home.
It rides so much smoother over the paver cracks.
The Mini is so dang fun.
I’ll be doing something and get the urge to go carve and generate some breeze. Jump on the mini, rack up a dozen figure 8’s then head down wind, then full speed run upwind lifting shirt to catch the breeze, then charge into the garage at speed and slam the brakes and stop with plenty to spare.
I also flipped the Kendas on the Fivestars, as with a significant amount of positive camber built into the hanger, the inside of the tire was wearing faster.
I tried balancing them not with weights, but by rotating the tire on the rim, trial and error style and got it pretty close. One full size balancing weight is too much on one wheel, and the other still needs some love. I will be getting another set of Kenda k473s when these are done for. They have been great tires.
We hit up another park afterwards and racked up another 6 mile for about 18 total together, I put about 4 miles on the Mini solo.
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Getting hot here in SW Florida, and my hub motors are getting really hot.
I raised the kenda PSi and the Chariot tire PSI, to little difference at the end of a run, temp wise, but I definitely have more range and top speed.
I made this dual 50x20mm 12v Delta fan a while back, well before I got into esk8, but as high rpm as these fans are, they would eat a lot of wH at high speed and were not really flowing much, compared to a 60mm 25mm thick fan, so they had not seen much use.
But today i brought them and a half charged 3s1p battery to power them.
The first park stop at 1.3 miles does not get the motors or hanger beyond warm, but I busted out the fan aimed it at the hanger and was pleasantly surprised how quickly they cooled back down towards ambient. We rolled pretty fast and got the motors hot again and stopped back in teh same park, and I busted out the fans again as soon as the Esk8 and Fiona swapped positions in teh chariot. Again I was pleasantly surprised how even their limited airflow cooled the motors. The 2.0AH battery quit prematurely, but Fiona was content on some cooler concrete so I decided to bust out the Portacharger, even though I had more than enough juice to get home.
The Portacharger’s 24v fan attached to the Booster heatsink is a new addition. I dialed up portacharger to nearly 8 amps, which is likely closer to 8.2 amps as this wattmeter is off, but it is consistently and comparatively off.
The heatsink inside is thick aluminum and the exposed finned heatsink take a while to heat up, but once it gets hot it really gets hot, finger burning hot, and I lower the 8 amps to 6 and then to 5 and maybe again to less than that. not only for the Booster temperature, but the eve 7s2p also was getting too hot.
I did not have my IR temp gun on me, but I was feeling the booster’s finned heatsink and battery temperature often, and the finned heatsink barely got above 100F in my estimation, So I left it at 8 amps output
To my surprise the battery compartment also stayed far cooler than I am used to, so I left it at 8 amps output, until the BMS cut power. i have never been able to leave it at 8 amps start to finish before, as it would always get too hot.
When I lowered the output in stages on previous uses, the wattmeter will read a max of 3.7 amp hours delivered and about 152 watt hours. Today, at 8 amps continuous output, this was reduced to 3.36 amp hours and 135 watt hours, but the 7s2p also rebounded to 22.6v, where at lesser rates it would rebound to 21.1 to 21.3v.
I did not expect the battery to run cooler too as the fan is on the opposite end, and I have a thermal ( convective and radiated) barrier between the booster and the battery, but the Booster ran far cooler.
The 24v fan draws 0.1 amps, and I started the discharge at 29.1 volts, not 29.4v, which makes the delivered Ah and Wh figures even more impressive, comparatively.
The Booster Fan is also blowing into the heatsink, the blades in partial stall due to airflow resistance. I intend to raise it a MM or two to move impeller away from the resistance and allow the air to escape radially, and not just sideways through the fins.
These hub motors are 10 months old and have at least 3k miles on them, and i figure they must have higher temp magnets, as the outer sleeve cap will measure 171F, so the magnets must be considerably hotter, yet these motors seem as powerful as when i first got them.
But I am riding further and faster now and sinking heat from the motors is fairly high on my to do list. the small 50MM fan duo was surprisingly effective, just aimed at the hanger from 5.5 Cm away. I can definitely improve the active fan based hub motor/hanger cooling, as today was just an quick experiment which proved far more effective than expected. The outer sleeve caps are always the hottest, and were not even in direct fan flow. I expect I can ride harder and cool the motors far quicker during the park breaks or the squat and sniff breaks.
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I received 24 Murata VTC6 3000mah 30/15 amp overstock cells form battery hookup. I spazzed out when I saw the email saying they were $1.12 each and ordered within the hour, and they were sold out a few hours after that.
November 2024 build date. They were all 3.4980v +/- 0.002v, which seems suspiciously close.
I marked them all, recorded their voltages, and put them all in parallel for 2 days and will check their self discharge in a few days.
14 will be made into a new 7s2p to go inside my portacharger, the other 10, I don’t know yet.
I really like rolling with the portacharger attached and trying to hold voltage above 41.5v. Torque and top speed are up, Spicy throttle, and I get at least 4 miles of range before the portacharger depletes and the normal discharge begins.
The Eve 35v 7s2p I built with 0.2mm copper gets too hot at 8 amps output from 29.4 to 18.74v, So that’s why I got the Muratas. I was coveting the 30PL/JP30/30XG for this, but those cells are kind of overkill for this task, and too rich for my blood.
The 105mm Puaida Donut hub motor sleeves are good I was very happy with the additional comfort. I wore one set flat, and ordered two more sets., and these are now on both my boards. I had one set of Meepo 105mm donut sleeves I did not like as much, ride wise, and I did not like how they were cast onto plastic and not aluminum.
I have been in contact with Meepo and they are no longer using plastic. I asked them about their 60A duro rubber 107mm Cyclone sleeves / and wheels.
I was confused as they said the hub motor kit came with two rubber wheels and two PU sleeves. I was like are the sleeves rubber or urethane, Do the sleeves have holes too?
They are rubber and hopefully they make their website less confusing in this regard.
They sent me a 10% discount code and I have ordered these 2 pairs of sleeves and one set of front wheels, which they say fit Kegel.
Hopefully they arrive quickly without tariff BS, like the baseplate I ordered did.
60A rubber with the holes might be the ticket for hub motors which do not ride too harsh. I’ll lose some range but can always carry more battery.
I need to order some riptide pivot cups too.
The Mini has been a delightful carving machine, and quad jellifyier.
I wonder how quickly the rubber will wear out compared to urethane, how it will feel when carving, compared to urethane, and I also wonder about the weight.
I rotated my Kendas k473’s side to side in the park today, but they are pretty well worn. Need to order new ones and have them ready. Wish the FiveStar rims were a bit wider, but oh well.
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Getting hot rolling through the jungle.
Gotta acclimate.
I got these Meepo 540 hub motors 11+ months ago and they went through the whole summer with the plastic cored Meepo 105 donut wheels. I then got the Aluminum cored 105mm Puaida motor sleeves, and was a bit alarmed hot how the outer sleeve cap was getting.
After a fairly aggressive roll on a hot day the outer caps were measuring 174.5f/79/7C on the bench. The inner bearing cap about 10-13F less.
I got these LED paddlewheel style heatsinks late last year, and attached and cut them down today. They were much wider, and I spun up the motors and lowered a hacksaw blade onto them, and then used a flap sander on an angle grinder to round them out somewhat.
I am not sure if these caps are powder coated or painted, but it is thick and I spend a long time with 180 and 600 grit on a wet piece of glass to remove the black color and flatten it. The heatsink is anodized black and I started removing the paint and saw how it was not really flat.
I need to countersink these screw heads and will apply some JB weld, and try and make nice fillets.
I’ll also round over the fins edges to reduce the ankle shredder factor.
I will repaint it flat black.
Not sure how effective these will be. a 150f magnet is 5-7% less powerful than a 75F magnet.
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Oh yea, I had same issues with hub motors in summer while I lived in Turkey.
Sometimes I would just rub the motor caps with hand sanitizer gel, it would evaporate quickly and drop the temperature a few degrees 
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I hadn’t thought of liquid cooling. I do keep some hand sanitizer in the first aid kit in Fiona’s chariot.
I have to assume these hub motors use higher temperature magnets, as if these were regular temperature they would have lost their power 3000 miles ago, last summer.
While I have these aluminum hub covers on the bench for paddlewheel heatsinks, I returned the Meepo motor donut 105mm sleeves, worn to about 97mm, that these motors came with, which are cast onto plastic. There is an open center portion of the hubs usually covered by the outer sleeve cover, and I sharpied this black.
After a roll I touch this sharpied black portion and it is super hot, but my IR gun reads only 140f. I aim the IR gun at the inner bearing cap and am seeing higher temperatures there than I have ever seen, 171 to 176F, yet to my fingers it feels far cooler than the sharpied black area inside the plastic.
To me this is a direct indication the aluminum cored sleeves with the Hub covers are sinking a lot of the rotor/magnet heat.
The Aluminum sleeve covers are always the hottest, but when I was setting the cruise control at 30MPH on the bench. and lowering the hack saw blade to cut the heatsinks down to size, and then I’d stop, and feel for heating, and the heatsink was far far cooler than the inner bearing cover, despite the Friction from cutting. This gives me great expectations that when rolling the centrifugal fan effect reaching out into passing air will be really effective. Perhaps delusional expectations, but I have enough IR gun readings, and enough of a rolling/route pattern, that any differences post heatsink, should be quite obvious.
I have countersunk the screw heads and JB Welded the heatsinks to the sleeve caps over 24 hours ago, and just need to give it a clean and hit it with some flat black paint and return them to service.
Am very interested in the IR temp gun readings afterwards.
The worn Meepo plastic cored sleeves ride so mush more rough and noisy than my newish Puaida sleeves, but they use noticeably less battery. I can also get going faster when towing Fiona on the smooth surfaces, but acceleration and brakes do not feel all that much spicier with the lesser diameter.
I am also eager to feel how the ‘cyclone’ 107mm rubber hub motor sleeves feel, when those arrive.
It looks like Meepo is using a different style hub motor on their newer boards, than what I have, and say they are higher wattage, but the same top speeds.. these use the same sleeves as my motors so at least it seems that unobtanium replacement sleeves are an anxiety I can not worry about for a while.
These worn meepo sleeves ride so much worse over obstacles / sidewalk cracks, I find myself stepping well forward putting more weight on my pneumatics, which are now showing some bald spots in the center. I have 2 new Kenda k473’s ordered.
I have a couple more ideas to pull heat out of the motors via the hanger, but will see how the paddlewheel ankle shredders do first.
I ran these motors all through last summer with the plastic cored sleeves, and if they were gonna cook, they should have cooked then, so maybe these efforts are pointless. I have a bit more battery and can ride a bit harder for longer now, so perhaps the efforts will not be in vain.
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I got a layer of flat black spray paint on the newly finned turbinesque sleeve covers, and reinstalled them on Puaida 105mm sleeves, well before the paint cured hard.
Very happy to report the paddlewheel heatsinks on outer sleeve caps were very effective.
I ran harder, for longer, on a hotter day, later in the afternoon, and the IR Temp gun read 12F/6.6C lesser temperatures than I I usually see, and the ESC heatsink was hotter than I’ve ever measured before, by nearly an equal amount.
I ran my usual route and expected the remote to start buzzing the low battery alarm during one acceleration stretch where it usually does, but the first buzz instead occurred nearly a mile later.
I got the board on the bench quickly for an IR temp gun hunt, and was pleasantly surprised that the sleeve covers, inner bearing covers, and hanger, were all cooler than normal, on a hotter day, later in afternoon, rolling over hotter pavement, while riding faster.
The range seemed to have improved too. I was very much expecting the remote to start buzzing far sooner than it did as I was deliberately on the throttle more than usual.
I expected and hoped for some slight improvement, despite the hotter ambients and road surface and rolling more aggressively, but not this much. It makes me want to add more hanger heatsinking
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My first airless rubber roll has occurred.
107mm Meepo rubber cyclones on the Mini.
First impression was that I expected them to be softer, and once warmed up they then were. Lost some freeroll, and the near silence.
The fronts are about 75 grams heavier than slightly worn 105mm urethane.
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The Mini on 107mm airless rubber wheels is certainly a lot more comfortable, and there is plenty of grip.
I had to set wheel diameter to 108mm to get the speedo to align with 2 different radar signs
I think the Mini was already overpowered, so the loss of torque and brakes and top speed are not a significant factor. The loss of freeroll and range are also not a huge factor for me, as I rarely use more than 1/4 of the 10s1p eve 40pl battery capacity in one session.
The mini is the slow speed infinite figure 8 mindcarve board 90% of the time, on smooth asphalt.
So the only real time these rubber wheels would really be an advantage, is during grocery getter duties, in a rainstorm. I can see just returning the 105mm urethane as I am not going to ride in the rain intentionally, and the pavers enroute to grocery store are basically the same as in the photo below. Hardly teeth rattling.
The cyclone 107 motor sleeves on the Guppy towing Fiona in her chariot, are also a mixed bag of results. Sidewalk cracks and the roughest surfaces are way way smoother underfoot, but torque and top speed are way down.
I got caught in a light shower and cut the usual route short and the battery was far lower than I would usually see with 105mm urethane.
Crossing grassy surfaces with varying compaction of sand beneath is also a mixed bag of results.
There is far more traction, but I guess I was used to the urethane wheels slipping and maintaining their rpm so when they’d get more traction, they’d have some momentum going, and I was able to maintain a higher overall speed with the urethane
The weaker brakes, loss of acceleration, top speed, and range with these rubber motor sleeves is likely not worth the added comfort. There is definitely more confidence on unfamiliar surfaces with them, and rolling on a wet road with them was far less scary than with urethane.
I’ve no idea how quickly they will wear.
Swapping sleeves can be done pretty quickly, but I do not know if I will be doing it often.
I think with the hot weather and hot hub motors for the Midday roll, it would be better to stick with urethane, and just accept the loss of comfort over the usual places.
If I had 20% more power and battery, and motor heatsinking, then I feel the disadvantages of these airless rubber wheels would be more acceptable.
I am not sure the added comfort is worth it. There are only a few places i roll that the sidewalk cracks or road surface are annoyingly bad, and while these rubber sleeves are easily 30% more comfortable over those areas, The rest of the places I roll there is only disadvantages.
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Put another 10 miles on the Mini with the 107mm airless rubber.
30% of that was just mindless carving my regular zone at progressively higher speeds, and I began to miss the precision and the unmuted feedback of urethane.
It is like there is a bit of a delay of input before reaction, especially noticeable once the rubber is hot.
There were some shaded spots where the asphalt was still wet and I did a little traction testing, but scared myself as it is easy to forget I am 54 and on blood thinners, no longer an indestructible 18.
I rolled to the worst surfaces on the mini that I am likely to ever traverse with it locally, and tried to convince myself it was so much better and totally worth it, but failed.
If all the roads were that crappy then yes, these are far more comfortable.
If I am exploring new unfamiliar areas, then definitely these give comfort and confidence.
One reason I like hub motors is the silence, and I can just let off the throttle and the free roll is nearly as good as analog.
With the airless rubber 107’s there is the ever present tread whisper, and free roll is down by 20%, and on the super smooth freshies, I can feel the tread vibrations that is just silk smooth stealth and silent on urethane. The Mini is no range boat where tingle foot and fatigue will become a concern.
I still wound up getting 8.7 miles of range, not towing, and still had 2 volts left on the 10s1p EVE 40PL, but, I am switching back to urethane, and for the motor sleeves I will go back to my most worn Puaida 105’s, and save the other newish Puaida 105mm urethane sleeves for the Guppy.
The guppy is also likely to wind up back on urethane too. I need to see just how much range is lost and how much hotter the motors get on the usual route with the rubber 107’s. It is pretty rare that I use the full range of my 10s2p Tenpower 50XG towing Fiona, but If My regular 7.5 to 8 mile roll is having me return at the 31v soft cut, that is unacceptable
I am kind of bummed, This was 150$ better spent elsewhere.
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This Jungle trail is mostly compacted sand and some crushed shells.
I once charged it pretty quickly in the opposite general direction of pedestrian traffic flow and scared a guy and his dog, and have since rolled it more seldom and far slower. The 107mm airless rubber hub motor sleeves really excelled here, conforming nicely across the different textures. exposed tree roots, and with great traction.
New Kenda K473’s will arrive today. The one on the right is going bald in the center and the other one has bald patches and vibrates at certain speeds, but not always. Its weird. I’ve been swapping sides and directions of these every 20 miles or so as the inside edge wears faster with all the camber of this hanger
This 140mmx35mm fan is pretty powerful, and blows a pretty dense defined column of air at Fiona’s belly, and over the hanger when they swap spots. I run it from a new EVE58E 3s1p, and usually turn it down when we roll.
The roll back from the usual route, the low battery buzz happened at least a half mile before the usual spot, and I cut the roll short by that amount and returned right as the soft cut kicked in, for a bit over 7 miles. So This is about 1 mile less range, riding quickly, towing Fiona.
Pre paddlewheel heatsinks, on 105mm urethane, the inner bearing covers were usually 10-12 degrees f less than the outer.
Today, hot and sunny, the outers were 162 on our return the inners were 161, and the rubber sleeves were 138f. the Kendas were 107f, the ESC heatsink was 141f, the hottest I have yet seen it.
Last evening’s roll on cooler pavement and some tailwinds had a very nice feel. Very planted when cornering and crossing painted lines and intersection debris. We crossed the drawbridge with its side to side corrugations and it was a bit quieter and without the drifty factor
I wonder how quickly the rubber sleeves will wear down and allow a return of some torque.
I can tolerate this loss of range, and with a tailwind the top speed is nearly as good as it was with urethane.
I think on the Guppy I will keep the rubber sleeves on for a period. I can tolerate the range and torque loss for a little while. There is one really rough route I once tried but turned around as is was too unpleasant on the 105’s, but I think that was the Meepo 105s which are a step down in comfort compared toe the Puaida 105’s.
On my return today, I took out the Mini on its new rubber, and pushed it pretty hard on my ’racetrack’, and then swapped back to urethane on the front only. This is actually a great feel, as if all the precision of carving hard and tight is back, and the rears can just squish and deform and grip very predictably. I weigh 200 Lbs and started unweighting at the end of a turn, but then weighting and loading the rubber and trying to slide them out, making them compress and fold in protest, leaving some tracks on the smooth asphalt.
This Hybrid set up on the mini, urethane up front, airless rubber hub motor sleeves on the rear, is actually very enjoyable for mindless carving and cruising to the store, but I will be returning the urethane sleeves to it. After a few compression folds they really heat up and just get really soft and squishy and continuing just feels mean and abusive, and perhaps these should be saved for the Guppy.
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New Kenda k473s are wobble and bump free. So smooth. My best tires yet in this regard.
Have to cut another wheel weight in half or thirds to achieve perfect balance on one wheel, but should break them in a bit more before seeking perfection.
Tread all squirmy. and noisy when turning. These likely need a spacer in the MSB 5 stars, so their profile is flatter. There is a bit of an apex on the solid center band. I have the axle length.
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Yesterday, we were saved the walk of shame, by the portacharger.
I had overestimated the battery left and the soft cut kicked in while I was still a mile from home.
At a bit more than a half mile, the max speed became intolerably slow, and I found a shade tree and attached portacharger to deck between my feet. It was still set to 8 amps output from the last use.
Fiona wanted to walk quickly home, despite the insane heat and humidity, and so I put skate in chariot, and followed her.
She quickly slowed and found some more shade, So I pulled the sk8 out of the chariot, she jumped in, and I hit the throttle and the soft cut was gone, and we cruised home at over 20mph/30kmh.
The 5.5x2.5 right angle barrel connectors I have been using, have been largely trouble free, despite my lack of confidence in the design. Mine do not have the opposing pin claspers/ Bifurcated tongs, which can grab either 2.1 or 2.5mm Pin. They just have the 2.5mm inner barrel and the contact with inner pin seems just incidental and if the pin were off center, then stronger contact would be insured.
So I stuck an Awl in there to bend the pin over and popped another 10 amp charge port fuse !.
Just kidding.
The right angle plug is basically a requirement for portacharger charge and ride, to tuck the wiring tight against the enclosure, keep it out of harms way, reduce the leverage that vibrations can apply.
I have hundreds of miles with the portacharger attached while rolling and the 5.5x2.5 receptacle is no doubt compromised. I have also had the spark when hooking the charger to it before the charger was powered up, and even my regular wattmeter alone will have a small spark/pop.
I have 5 new 5.5x2.5 charge ports, the all metal bodied ones that claim 10 amps rating, and they are not attracted to a magnet.
I wanted to rid myself of the open barrel type male connectors in favor of Bifurcated tongs. I saw some of the latter for a decent price and ordered them.
They arrived yesterday, and at first glance I was somewhat satisfied, but the magnet attracted them strongly.
Steel junk.
Waste of money.
Should be nickel plated brass or some other copper alloy.
Hunting for a better connector was frustrating as even the ones which claim 10 amps, could also just be highly resistive steel junk.
Long story somewhat shorter, SwitchCraft 760KH
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/switchcraft-inc/760KH/7219688
From what I read these are a respected manufacturer that is not going to cut every corner possible for maximum profit.
These do not have the 90 degree bend I desire for the portacharger, but I am going to make it conform to my wishes.
These have an actual threaded locking ring for mating with the SC PC712A receptacle, which I regret not ordering. This would require some modification to mount to my Thicc fiberglass enclosure, but could be done.
Sharp eyes will see that these are rated at 7.5 and 5 amps, but I suspect that they are far superior to the connectors I am using now which are surviving fine at 8 and 10 amps max.
I know most will want a burlier connector to be able to charge at far higher rates, but I do not ever expect to need to charge my current equipment faster than 10 amps, and my 10s2p is only 10AH nominal capacity, and I wont push the portacharger higher than 8 amps, and am unwilling to adopt an entirely new system. I just want to improve it.
I also want to be able to use the inline barrel wattmeter, whose male is a bifurcated tong capable of clasping a 2.1 or 2.5mm pin, but whose female 2.1 pin makes no contact with my Non bifurcated 5.5x2.5 barrel plugs.
I’ve more info on this product in this thread:
I’ve really grown to like using this meter on the bench. I am not concerned with it overheating at 8 amps. The heat seems to come most from the display. If I pull the plugs and place them up againt my cheek they are barely warm. I am more concerned with the leverage it can apply if I inadvertently tug the cord.
Most of my chargers are using the open barrel 5.5x2.5 male plugs though, which do not make proper contact with the Meter’s 2.1mm pin. I do have one pretty good bifurcated plug, but need to use an additional xt90 to xt-60 or 45amp Anderson powerpole inline.
I’ve got two of the SwitchCraft 760KHs ordered from digikey. About 25$ with tax and shipping.
Will report back when they arrive and I implement them and after I push them to 10 amps in a hot Florida garage.
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We can make an ESP32 Watch display that you can wear to monitor “telemetry the battery pack”
I am thinking on create a module and transfer the telemetry to the watch or even to be able to make an app in android. Also installing a smart bms will take care about it.
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I do have a voltmeter on my remote’s display, but my aged far sighted eyes have difficulty reading the tiny numbers in full sunlight. I was thinking a small magnifying lens for over the voltmeter.
The voltmeter does read 0.5v low. The remote will start buzzing every 20 seconds or so when it reads 34.5v and less, with the soft cut right around 31.5v, and a further cut in power under 30.5v.
I just ignored it yesterday, and was downwind and at the lowest elevation possible when i noticed it read 32.1v. , and turned home. I was hoping to get a better Idea of the actual range I have lost switching to the 107mm airless rubber hub motor sleeves, which are indeed more comfortable and confidence inspiring.
I slowed down a bit today and found the low battery buzz happened far later in the roll.
Are you getting the swarms of Lovebugs up there?
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This spot is about 6 miles into the roll.
Left with 95% charged 7s2p Eve 35V portacharger attached, and dialed to 41.6v at 8 amps maximum output.
It delivered 3.41ah and rebounded to 21.3v when I removed it here^.
Tenpower 10s2p voltage was 40.62v
The portacharger now has 6 round rubber feet elevating it 9mm above the deck, allowing airflow across its 1mm G10 underbelly, and battery was definitely warm, but I have felt it hotter. The booster heatsink was barely beyond warm, what parts I can feel on the sides of the 24v 50mm fan.
45 minutes later it rebounded to 22.18v. or 3.17 volts per cell average.
So one or more cells sagged to the BMS LVD, or its temp sensor exceeded 70C.
I’ve certainly gotten more WH from it before, but usually I lower the max output amperage as the 7s2p depletes, when chariot or picnic table charging. Roll and charge wH delivered depends on how fast I roll, and the max allowed output amperage. Pre fan, I was not allowing the full 8 amp output start to finish as the heatsink would get too hot, even at 20mph, and pre rubber feet it was strapped down onto the neoprene Ipad casing, so battery would cook more so and get way too hot.
I have enough Murata VTC6 cells I scored for $1.12 each from battery hookup, to make a new 7s2p battery and have 10 left over. I put those in parallel for a few days and they have been self discharging for well over a week now, to help sort them further with a 4 decimal voltmeter.
Want to order a HRM-10.
Wish I didn’t spend the $ on the 2 passive Kegel compatible 107mm cyclone rubber airless wheels, but am kind of digging the 107mm rubber hub motor sleeves, despite the lost range.
Comfort is way up on rougher surfaces and over sidewalk cracks, as is confidence turning on looser surfaces.
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Fiona’s chariot has been making clicky ticky Noises during right turns.
I’ve been using the ABEC-9 6001 bearings that came inside my used MBS 5 star rims. I never pulled those bearings out of the Chariot’s rims, I only added MBS’s 22.5mm spacers between them.
The chariot uses 10MM axles, from a Vevor mountainboard truck I cut in half and installed into the kayak cart Axle.
I ordered a 10mmID / 12mmOD aluminum sleeve and made an Axle adapter to use the 12mm bearings.
I did order new 10mmID 28mm OD bearings so I could bypass the adapter, but then I’d need to make precision 22.5mm 10mm spacers, which I did not have the confidence I could do, using a drill and a file as a lathe.
The used analog MBS mountainboard I bought, the deck shows water damage with the outer layer of deck plywood cracked and lifting, but I bought it for the trucks and rims, which I thought would be rockstars. Glad they are 5 stars though. This board might have sat outside for a long period of time, perhaps on its side, and water got into the Abec9 bearings, and why they started making noise.
Anyway I bought new SpinCo6001-rs bearings, and pulled the seals, dropped them in a jar of goo gone with a old toothbrush to dissolve the factory grease, and used 2 different jars of 91% alcohol to clean them pristine.
The SpinCo bearings were completely overstuffed with grease.
After drying the 91% alcohol I spun them by hand and they’d free spin for 8-9 seconds.
I used superlube with xyncolon at 30-40% fill and did all 8 bearings.
While the bearings were out I cleaned the 5 star rims, and the bearings seats had what looked like compressed hardened grease, or similar, preventing the bearings from seating to full depth.
This when I was cranking the Axle nut down onto the spacer, it was causing some slight misalignment of balls in groove.
With new bearings installed on the clean rims, My aluminum 10-12mm braring adapters were a smidge too long, and with night tightened the wheel could move slightly in or out.
I put the adapter back in the drill and removed perhaps 0.5mm of width and they fit the outer bearing width perfectly.
I then put the nut back on, and tightened it down, and it never cinched. It felt like the steel axle was rotating inside the aluminum hanger. Thankfully it was just the fact that the narrower width of the MBS5 stars vs the Vevor rims means i ran out of thread and the Nylon portion of the nylock nut was the only thing trying to tighten.
Flipping the nut over was enough to work, but the now compromised Nylon lock portion of the nut was then doing nothing, and i could easily unthread by fingers.
No big deal, just use some extra speed rings.
But I don’t have any, and there would still be little actual thread engagement.
If I use another bearing as an 8mm spacer then there is not enough axle length to fully engage the nylock nut.
So I wasted the entire afternoon. I made new 10-12mm adapters, but 8mm longer than the previous ones.
Spinning it in the drill and using the angle grinder with cut off wheel, on its side, to reduce the width, worked amazingly well, far better than a file.
I then spin the Chariot axle with the drill, with oposte eng in the wheel, on the floor and used the angle grinder to expose about 5mm more of axle length, and got new 10-12mm adapter to seat to full depth and allow full thread engagement of nylock nut.
I put the 8mm bearing spacer on the inside so the Chariot’s track width grew a little bit.
With Axle clamped to the bench I spun the 4.1–3.50-4 tires upto speed, and the bench started vibration as I removed the wheel weights when I cleaned the rims.
These tires likely have 5K miles on them now and the center is pretty well worn. They need a wider rim, but are not going to get one. When spinning I could see the obvious out of round factor.
I took the Mini, and spun the tires upto 36mph on the bench, and lowered my angle grinder with a flap sander to hit the high spots, outside the center worn portion of the tread, where the out of round and wobble was most pronounced.
I was amazed at how easy this was to not only nearly completely eliminate the out of round and the wobble, and the bench started vibrating with only 25% of the intensity.
I then glued on some balancing weights, some of which i cut in half then in half again. not perfect balance, but pretty close.
The evening roll had the chariot rolling smoother than ever before.
Absolutely no vibration could be felt in the handle.
The second radar sign revealed we were going 25mph, confirmed by remote speedo, despite a 12mph headwind, where usually with the new rubber hub sleeves we were lucky to hit 24mph with no wind.
I am glad my new Kenda K473’s on the Guppy front axle roll with almost no out or round or wobble, but I regret not spinning up the wobbly Chariot tires before to high speed and shaving down the out of round with and side to side wobbles with a flap sander on an angle grinder.
I had the tire PSi dialed in so the guppy and chariot would free roll the same with the rubber hub motor sleeves, but with the new bearings and the de wobbled and balanced chariot tires, when I’d let off the throttle the chariot started pushing. No PSI changes.
I really wish I did this sooner.
It must be far more comfortable for Fiona too, who is now reminding me we are late for our first park roll of the day.,
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