The hottest spot, always, is this outer sleeve cap, by 20-25F. The inner cap will be 137F-142F, this outer cap will be 170F after a long roll with a lot of full throttling around towing Fiona and returning with a 10S battery in the 32-33v range
I have these round star like heatsinks and I was thinking of cutting them down into slightly less ankle shredding width, sticking out a mm or 2 past the lip of the urethane sleeve. I am not really sure how to best drill the 4 holes to center the heatsink and keep it balanced.
I was going to use screws and JB weld, as the thermally conductive epoxy designed as such, is just too rich for my blood.
Sleeve chunking throws out the balance pretty good by itself So i am not sure how being out by -.25mm or so will actually effect balance.
Probably going to order new Puaida sleeves since the softer urethane is cast onto Aluminum where the meepo sleeves are cast onto plastic and are a looser fit on the motors too.
I also fear the Future unavailability of these sleeves. When Installed I was very pleasantly surprised how much nicer the board rode. now that they have worn mostly flat they are starting to follow parallel grooves a bit more and lost some smoothness.
Fiona has been doing well. It seems like her one swollen mammary has reduced in size. We got our likely last cool blast and she will stand up and want to leave the chariot in a part of the neighborhood she has not yet sniffed and scented, and do so Tail high, trotting like a dog not dying of cancer.
We’ve been averaging over 10 miles per day, and I don’t take any of that joy for granted.
The 3.50/4.10-4 chariot tires on MBS fivestar’s are now down at 4.8 psi, and get a lot louder and draggy at 20+mph, and so our top speed and range are down. I can tell through the handle it is riding a lot smoother over the bumps, and that is far more important than range or top speed at this point.
The above photo is a new to us park, but she was not keen exploring it. She was pulling hard towards the exit and no interest in sniffing.
I had left homebase with the the 7.0AH 7s2p EVE35V powered portacharger attached, lowered to 5 amps max output, and it wound up delivering 3.71 amp hours back into the 10AH TenPower 10s2p 50XG, and did not get too hot at this lesser output.
My 5.5x2.5 charge port is wearing out. My 5.5x2.5 plug from portacharger is a 90 degree plug, and I run the wires from portacharger to the receptacle with strain relief, but it has seen 100+ miles of significant vibrations and has loosened up, and I will need to replace it soon. It has vibrated loose on its own, but today I had employed some Gaff tape to help it from doing so.
We walked a few hundred meters away from this park along the tourist traffic fusterclucked main road, when I got annoyed with walking, removed the spent portacharger, put it into the chariot, and I commanded Fiona back into the chariot and hit the throttle for that blessed manufactured breeze and rolling bliss.
I did discover that the eve35V data sheet says 70C is acceptable, in a pack, but if I could go back in time regarding portacharger battery, I would choose the economical Eve 30P or Molicel p28a and run it up at 7-8 amps output.
Between the park above, and the park below, the main road seems to have really taken a beating since the last time we rolled it, when we got chased by a pitbull.
The main tire grooves were deeper more cracked, and more warbly as was the area just on either side of them. We hit this area with No following traffic, for the most part , and I was just uncomfortable trying to maintain 20+ mph on it so Just slowed way down and hit the sidewalk instead.
The Chariot has a 12v LED rear strip light which I have flashing red , and two forward facing shredlights @trancejunkie gifted us, that I also have set to flashing during the day.
We made it back home with plenty of battery to spare and the chariot tires were kind of stinky hot and measured 124F, from rolling fast at such a low PSI and the equinox approaching, even though today was relatively cool in the low 70’s Fahrenheit/22.2C.
It was a 3 park outing, and later we rolled the full length of the Crushed shell trail for the evening roll session, FUCK the HOA and their fucking rules!, and then we barked up the hood for a couple laps at full throttle.
Got to make every day I have left with the sweet fluffy goofball enjoyable.
I am gonna be crushed when she is gone.
I am so happy when she gets all excited when I set up her chariot with shade and furry butt bolstering, and tilt it for her to enter, but there have been a few times where she just raised an eyebrow and declined.
Rolling Solo is just not as rewarding, and barking alone is simply no fun.
I always charge my esk8 through CC/CV boosters from 12v nominal.
I had a 9 year old but relatively healthy pair of DEKA GC-2 AGMS on the garage workshop floor, being fed by a 100 amp adjustable CV power supply, set to 13.6v.
The 9 year old Deka’s in my Campervan shit the bed so the garage Dekas got swapped into the Van.
A 7 year old UB12220 cheap 12v AGM battery took over Deka duties in the garage.
Sometimes I would forget to turn on the 13.6v power supply and would drain the AGM dead dead charging my esk8 battery.
7 year old cheap AGM + 100% discharges mean it will fail soon.
In fact it can only deliver less than 6 amp hours of its original claimed 22AH of capacity.
Since Lead is dead, I ordered 4 SAFT VL30pfe Lifepo4 cells from battery hookup and a 300 amp dumb BMS.
BH claims these cells have 28 amp hours capacity:
“ Max Continuous Charge - Up to 120a
Max Pulse Discharge - 400a
Short Circuit Protection - 5400a
These are seriously powerful cells.”
I had individually brought each cell to 3.65v, and then put them in parallel for close to a week to top balance them, then unparallelled them.
They were all 3.43v +/- 0.0045v a week later
I loaded them with my ‘1800 watt’ CCCV booster at ~30 amps, rising as high as 34 amps, to charge my 10s2P BAK10s2p at 9.24 amps, then my older 10s2p DMEGC-26E battery, then my 10s1P Eve40pl battery until one SAFT cell almost touched 2.5v
My inline wattmeter reads about 1.45 amps low at 33 amps, yet it stated the SAFT4s1p delivered a total of 27.066 watt hours. I feel that the 28 amp hour rating Battery hookup gave these cells to be realistic, perhaps even a bit low
The cells did not even seem to rise above room temperature.
Very soon After I removed the load when cell A touched 2.505v
Cell A rebounded to 2.567v
Cell B rebounded to 2.894v
Cell C rebounded to 2.750
Cell D rebounded to 3.060.
I did not run this test through the supposed 300 amp 4S BMS, I was the BMS.
Am am now charging it at 20+ amps.
These 14$ SAFT cells are pretty big and heavy for their capacity, but I suspect they would laugh at starting my 5.2 liter V8 engine if asked to.
12+ would be way too big and heavy for an Esk8, but should be good as a battery inbetween my 12v adjustable voltage 100 amp power supply and my CCCV booster that charges all my esk8 batteries.
The 300 amp 4s XiaoXiang Dumb BMS needs to be tested still. and if it does BMS things I will then button up this battery.
I might get 4 ~100ah lifepo4 prismatic cells and make a dedicated starter battery for my Van using this 300 amp BMS and get a smaller one for this ~28AH pack, and wire a Bypass with an appropriately sized Anderson connector for emergency jumper pack duty. I don’t really need to worry about charging from below freezing anytime soon, and have complete manual control of my Van’s charging voltage.
Kind of excited to have finally gained a smidge of experience cycling Lifepo4 cells.
CCCV booster Charged my 10s2p BAK45D to 41.85v from 4S lifepo4, and checked cell balance.
25mv delta.
4.20v highest, 4.175 lowest(group5)
Good enough.
Strapped padded bakpak to deck under some 0.5mm g10 , pulled loopkey, and plugged bakpak into parallel esc feed, to return it to storage voltage. the fun way.
This song came up in some YT Ska playlist I had going on this AM.
This is not Ska,
but damn
It made my day.
My 88 year old dad is basically Deaf, Cochlear implant on one side and a hearing aid on the other side which is so loud that if the TV is on Mute I can easily hear what is the Blue tooth connection is blasting into his ear.
When they returned from the senior friendship center, I dialed this song up on the big screen and turned it up.
Alzhammered 84 year old mom started bouncing around and dancing, slapping her thighs, with a youthful grin on her face.
My dad was tapping his foot and restarting it, over and over, then started clicking on other similar music. Then he would scroll back to this song.
My 70mm long grade 10.9 M10-1.25 bolts arrived yesterday.
I pulled out an old baseplate from a Puaida truck that was retired long ago, as it had a super wobbly kingpin.
That 3/8” splined Kingpin tapped so easily out from the baseplate, I had to chuckle.
it measured 9.49mm on the shank/ unthreaded portion.
The M10 bolt would not hand thread in from the bottom, but it would from teh top, so I did so and then used a tool with very little pressure to thread it through the bottom.
Then it easily hand threaded from the bottom up to the shank.
I then took my angle grinder to the 17mm Hex head to get it to fit into the baseplate.
Slowly. I tried to keep it cool and a water quench never sizzled.
The new kingpin seated dreamily, pulling it with spacers by bolt threads with a Nut. No more Kingpin wobble, no more kingpin weakening splines, more bolt diameter, more strength, yeehaw..
The Mini has been using a caliber two front truck on ~ 14 degrees of wedges, and I wanted a bit more turn for the lean. I remembered the Puaida trucks seemed to be a bit more twitchy, more turn per lean, so i put Newly kingpinned Puaida baseplate onto mini with Puaida hanger, and swapped my 105mm meepo ‘donut’ wheels and my same bushing stack.
The Mini test roll with m10 Kingpin on Puaida front truck did certainly change the handling, for the better.
I am using the same bushing stack at the same tension but the turn radius was a bit shorter, and it seemed both trucks had the same turn, with back wheels in the same track as front instead of swinging wider, despite the rear being dewedged by 7 degrees.
The M10 Nylock stop nuts i ordered are tall/ thick have a flanged bottom side, and I learned the hard way they have some threadlocker pre applied.
I need to order some riptide pivot cups and bushings.
I have pictures and more info in this thread:
I had started a wobbly kingpin thread I will likely update too.
I will be replacing each and every 3/8” kingpin, splined or not with M10-1.25 grade 10.9, even on the baseplates with non wobbly kingpins.
I have a MBS ATS.12 truck on the front of the Guppy. Its 3/8” kingpin was the most wobbly.
After Kingpin removal I saw that the Kingpin receptacle was not perpendicular to the base, and just yesterday I noticed that the Pivot cup recess is not centered either. I now see this specific baseplate as a lemon not worthy of a new kingpin.
I got the MBS trucks mainly as I feared fatigue of my 270mm 10mm axle ‘Vevor’ MTB TKP truck and thought he hanger had bent.
I then learned of venom 1212’s incident with the hanger pivot snapping, and while I am using one of these trucks on my front, I do not trust them. I swapped to my other MBS ATS.12 baseplate and hanger 200 miles or so ago and this baseplate kingpin is not yet wobbling, but I have not inspected it as closely to see if it as as much of a asymmetric lemon as my other one.
Anyway I like the handling of these TKP trucks, but I fear the pivot snapping and trying to kill me.
I am considering contacting Tito and seeing if he will sell a single flatboard 270mm front Duality truck. I cant really afford a pair of trucks, and only need one at this point.
The meepo 540 hub motors are good enough for Flat Florida.
I can traverse some grassy sandy areas with some throttle to spare.
I like their silence.
The brakes are strong. They have been maintenance free other than sleeves, and reliable.
I’m not ready for everything required to go gear or belt drive and do not need their extra capability at this point in time.
I just want a 270mm front truck for a flat deck, that is not going to streetface me, but I want it to have at least as much lean and turn as the TKP MBS ATS.12 that I am using now. I am going to keep using the Kenda 2.80-2.50-4 K473 Pneumies up front. They are awesome.
A channel truck like Matrix3 with singularity bushings would be more affordable, but I would need a ~30 degree wedge riser and I’d rather not go that route
I had stopped a few miles previous to this picture and busted out the tools, as something was rattling. I got some more tension on baseplate hardware, but the rattle was still there.
I decided I had to check to see if the XT90 panel mounts m4 nuts had again loosened up, even though it did not sound like that kind of rattle.
So dropped the enclosure in the park, pulled the masking tape holding the neoprene gasket and had a peel inside. Everything inside was good and tight, So I restrapped it to the deck. The rattle was still present, and we rolled home slowly.
I suspected perhaps my baseplate hardware was stripped and or stretched, and when home, pulled the baseplate, but the 10-32 hardware was fine.
With baseplate off I decided it needed a new M10 grade 10.9 kingpin.
Its 3/8” kingpin was not wobbly and it did fight extraction. Heating the baseplate to 185F and holding a series of quickly melting ice cubes on the kingpin worked. It tapped out without getting serious with the hammer, or getting a heavier hammer.
Getting the new M10-1.25 Kingpin seated was a bit more effort than on yesterday’s baseplate, but I think I got a solid procedure established for all future kingpin swaps.
I had reassembled the board and dialed up 10 amps of charge current, then took out the mini for some Carving the road in front of garage. The Mailman stopped short of the mailbox, and handed me a package.
Inside were 2 new sets of Puaida 105mm hub motor sleeves with 20 new screws with preapplied blue threadlocker, and a new 10S Puaida 2024 ESC and remote, for the mini.
I had ordered one of these ESC’s from Amazon a few months ago, but it had no brakes and so I sent it back got a full refund. The Same ESC in the guppy is claiming 1500 miles so far, and is doing well, No cut outs, no interference.
Took 2 days short of 3 weeks to arrive with no Additional Fees.
I need to benchtest this new ESC, and if it has brakes, install it into the mini.
My old 105mm Puaida motor sleeves had worn to 98mm and lost 50+ grams compared to the new ones. My heelside sleeve wears more. I should rotate them more often.
I installed one set of the new sleeves on the guppy, and on the bench they were super smooth without bounce or wobble, at 36mph, unloaded.
I took a solo test ride to get the motors and sleeves warm, and then retorqued the sleeve bolts. Have to change wheel diameter back to 105 from 101.
The new sleeves have a very slight tread and it has a nice low quiet Humm that changes pitch and volume with speed and lateral loading. I am not used to such audible feedback.
Board felt really good with New taller roadside cone washer up against M10 flange nut, a less worn pivot cup, and the new sleeves.
The rattle is gone too.
The 2022 Puaida/Linyi ESC in the mini is still working well, it claims 2770 miles lifetime, but the brakes are too weak is my main complaint, and it has a hard cut at 32v.
I prefer 30v hardcut of the 2024 ESC.
I also want to be able to fine tune the 4 different power levels and limit torque and top speed on the lower 3 levels. I’d like something between 2 and 3 for close to home slow speed carve and hiss sanity sessions. Level 2 is not quite enough, 3 can be too much, and 4 is torquewheelie waiting to happen when accelerating out of a dropwallet turn.
The 105mm Meepo donut sleeves on the mini’s motors are worn to about 99mm. I could put the softer and slightly more worn Puaida sleeves onto it.
Sometimes I think about returning my smaller 83mm hub motors with 76mm unobtanium sleeves and the 80mm blood orange urethane up front, to the mini, for the smooth asphalt carving, and lighter weight for grocery getter duties.
But it rides pretty good as is and is hardly too heavy to carry and I have a thousand other projects
The new 105mm donut sleeves are such a huge improvement in comfort.
We cruised in excess of 15 miles today.
I made some mr30-mr60 adapters just to test the new ESC. I used my older Junkking 83mm hub motors, my 10s2p BAK45D, and after pairing the remote, a process not required before, it worked as expected and as hoped for, on the bench.
I opened the mini’s enclosure for the first time since last year, and removed the 2022 ESC.
Some of the wiring was not immobilized to the standard of my other enclosure, but showed no issues. I will tighten it up more, after getting the new ESC installed.
I am going to add a second XT90 parallel panel mount ESC input, but I don’t think i will drill and file the enclosure for a second panel mount xt90 at this time. I need top swap the xt60 to xt 90 and can fit a 14AWG alongside the esc’s 16awg inside a xt90 solde cup, and already have a panelmount xt90 with pigtails ready to go.
I have the room and can just secure this panel mount out of the way. At some later date if when I need to parallel batteries to the eve40Pl 10s1p inside, I can drill and file the enclosure. I have the portacharger which actually has more watt hours than the eve10s1p 40 PL So can double its range is i need to, but the mini was not made for that.
When i ordered the Meepo 540 watt hub motors with e 105mm sleeves, the hanger it came with is not compatible with any of my other baseplates, and it came with no baseplate.
I transferred the motors to another hanger, and all is well, but the Meepo hanger is 10Mm narrower, and different geometry which might benefit the Mini.
I was able to determine which Meepo baseplate I needed for this hanger, and that is en route.
I’ll probably not immediately knock out its kingpin and insert an M10, but that is basically the fate of every truck I own.
I am really liking the handling of the Guppy since I M10’s its baseplate, used a taller roadside cone bushing and skipped the cup washer entirely. it just mates with the bottom of my flanged M10 Nut.
Between that bushing swap, a fatter stronger non splined fresh kingpin , a less worn pivot cup, and the new 105mm hub motor sleeves laughing at sidewalk cracks, Today’s rolls were extra pleasant, so we got in 18 miles, and one slight downhill grade coincided with a 25+ mph gusty tailwind, and 30MPH/ 48.3kmH was easily exceeded, and we ran out of road before acceleration stopped.
once we get above 23/24mph, Fiona stops barking. She just gets serious and aero, with her butt centered in her chariot and does not move. i can feel any weight sift in the handle and she just stays immobile.
Once we slow back down i’ll turn around and look at her, meet her eye, and she usually barks, twice. So I bark twice.
I tend to mimic her barks, and she barks a lot.
She is basically deaf, but if i dont bark with her, I guess she can feel it through the chariot, and her barking tempo changes, annoyed, like saying WTF? until I relent, and meet her eyes, see that goofy grin, and start mimicking her barks again.
30 Days since I turned the at home Euthanasia vet away.
The New Puaida ESC refused to work properly with the New old stock Puaida motors.
It would work If I put the remote in sensorless mode, but the brakes were weak, the power curve was not linear, and the motors were Noisy, and I like nearly silent motors.
So I swapped in the well worn 83mm Jking motors, with sleeves now worn to about 75.5mm, and the 80mm inboard bloodorange urethane wheels up front.
The JKing hubmotor hanger only fits the baseplate it came with, and its Kingpin was wobbly so I replaced it with an M10-1.25 G10.9, which went smoothly.
The lower ride height is noticeable when stepping onto it, but riding it, it barely feels different when carving, compared to the 105mm wheels.
The brakes are now strong enough to lock up, even when braced for braking with 90% of weight on the back foot.
Acceleration is nearly as strong.
In general, the Mini performs well with the smaller hub motors and wheels, and carving is fun, but not much different than with 105’s. It has enough acceleration and top speed, for the mini. The significantly lighter weight is noticeable in hand, but not underfoot.
As a backup board, these smaller wheel limit where I will/can ride to, far more than 105’s would.
These Jking hub Motors have unobtanium replacement sleeves, so their clock is ticking.
I could switch back to the older ESC and 105’s, or perhaps get different hub motors that I know work well with this ESC, like the Meepo 540’s on the Guppy.
It’s hard to go back to a smaller wheel, even on a low speed carver.
In other news. I ordered a new inline power meter with XT60 input and output, as I feel blind deaf and dumb when charging and not knowing the current flowing, and Want more and more accurate inline meters.
This one largely agrees with my more trusted inline wattmeters and DC clampmeter, from 0.05 to 10 amps, and is a bit smaller.
I have another one ordered which has a 5.5x2.1/2.5 connector on input/output.
Supposed to arrive Sunday. I’ll review these in more detail in the pocketable voltmeter/fuel gauge thread after testing them and gaining more familiarity with them
I played with top speed, acceleration, and current settings on the 3 lower power levels and proceeded to mind carve the smooth asphalt.
With a fully charged 10s1p 40pl the thing is a little rocket on gear 4, and even gear 3 was having me torque wheelie out of turns, so I dialed Gear 2 to ~85% of gear 3.
Can dial gear one so low it can barely get out of its own way.
This hubmotor hanger is more stable at higher speeds than the Puaida motor hanger.
The much lighter weight is becoming more noticeable, the more I ride it.
Changing the brakes levels don’t seem to change much at mid to higher speed .
Strong AF lock’em up.
Very linear upto the brief lock though.
I’m digging it.
Am out exploring new zones with Fiona. Park charging at 320 watts.
I hated the stock Meepo Hurricane Deck. IMO, it was like riding a wood plank (boring and lifeless). So I never rode it and it was my least favorite board. So I decided to shape the Meepo Hurricane Deck. I used and angle grinder to grind-out 2 layers of plywood in the middle section of the deck and it gave the deck some flex and more importantly - it gave the flat deck a lot more concave. Now when I ride this board, my feet feel really locked in and i can carve from rail to rail.
. I also shortened the board by approximately 2 inches and I shaped the waste with a dremel. Now this is one of my favorite decks to ride. I consider Meepo.Decks to be like surfboard blanks. They are the beginning point - but they need shaped and customized to make them more lively.
The nearly 6lb lesser, 13lb weight with the small hub motors and front wheels is becoming more and more noticeable, and appreciated, when picking it up to carry into the store, or put onto charge bench at shoulder height
It’s quick and fast enough, and carves wonderfully.
But the inner bearings are emitting growling noises i can feel through my feet, and the motors get pretty hot even when only mildly aggressive on throttle and brakes. Pretty sure I can cook them even with only 10s1p of eve 40pl range.
I have new bearings for inner caps, but would need to remove mr60’s to get to them, and the well worn unobtanium sleeves are wearing down quickly so it could be a lot of work for little reward
I can return other esc and larger motors and gain 6lbs to nearly 19 lb weight, but have weak brakes and a 32v hard cut, and speed 3 is still too much and 2 not enough.
No real clue as to why my larger NOS pPuaida hub motors will not work with the preferred Puaida 2024 ESC. I emailed Puaida, am awaiting response. Perhaps i can just swap some sensor wires.
Perhaps I should post in wanted cheap or free for 83mm or lesser hub motors.
I didn’t build the mini to be as light as possible, but being nearly 50% lighter as is, is appreciated, and most of its carve is on the smooth, so bigger wheels not really needed.
I see Meepo sells some 75mm hub motors, but no replacement sleeves.
I got a reply from Puaida about the 2024 ESC not working with my NOS Puaida motors.
They said that if the don’t have a P on the sleeve cap, then they are not their motors.
So not New old stock, some others that look identical.
The ESC has a motor learning procedure that I will need to try for these ‘opposite sex’ (third party) motors.
It Will require I plug in the power button.
The procedure might be beneficial even on my Meepo 540 motors that just worked, and hit 1643miles today, on this same model ESC, and gave that much again on the 2022 ESC.
The Mini might return to that large breed puppy look, with the clumsy oversized paws.
I hit a couple of unseen pebbles with my tiny motors mid carve this evening which reminded me that these tiny wheels are great only on the perfectly smooth surfaces.
Skating with the leaf blower to clear my carve zones of pebbles, is kind of enjoyable.
I messed up the learning procedure on my worn 75mm hub motors, and test rode it anyway, and they were making that sand infiltrated magnet on stator grindey noise so I pulled them off.
The ESC ‘learning procedure’ worked, and my NON Puaida hub motors, which appear identical to to Puaida motors, are now fully functional on the 2024 Puaida ESC. The brakes are insanely strong. I love it.
I left the front 80mm blood orange urethane on, and the board is in the low 17Lb range. The rear Meepo 105mm donut sleeves are worn down to the 98mm diameter range.
It’s so dang nimble. I love how it can brake hard to a full stop and then stay parking braked.
I still need to button up the enclosure a bit tighter, and gets its full size neoprene gasket blue taped in place and sharpied black.
Now that the performance of this board is where I want it, I am going to start working on some details, like getting rid of the velcro cinch straps. maybe.
Really the enclosure gasket is far thicker than it needs to be, and I never sanded the hull. its super rough, dust motes fisheyes and 80 grit scratches here and there to knock down some too obvious high spots.
I need to get some more epoxy, lay more roving bridges, Fill the old baseplate holes, perhaps make the deck a bit wider with more roving perimeter. I know this board has no chance in the smol board challenge, but it is in the spirit of the design.
So damn fun to ride too. Capable too.
Gotta figure out which riptide bushings and pivot cups to order for both my boards.
I am going to perform the esc motor learning procedure on the Guppy too.
The procedure basically repairing the remote on the bench, then slowly spinning up the motors to near full speed, then slowly letting the throttle off. NO hitting the brakes. when the wheels stop, double click the power button to reverse the wheel direction and do the same. fire up to high speed and then let off the throttle slowly till they stop. no brakes, no sudden throttle release and coast.
If the guppy gains even better brakes as well, then GDog hiddley hee and a sideways yeehaw, followed by a forehead slap for not knowing about this procedure earlier.
This esc in the Mini is Fire.
I swapped the motors from the Puaida clone truck and hanger to a Meepo V4 hanger and baseplate, which is 110mm instead of 120mm wide.
I played with the bushings and the acceleration and current and top speed percentages on the first two power levels so far and am really digging its flow. Level 4 is easily more power than this little board needs in my opinion, and I am dialing down the brakes a bit as they are so strong.
I tried the ESC motor learning procedure on the Guppy which has the meepo 540 hub motors, hoping for maybe some more performance, but the only difference I can notice is slightly less motor noise when braking. Also there is no more brief stutter/cog when starting from a full stop.
My heelside motor always ran 6 to 7degrees F hotter, and yesterday was only 3-4F hotter after a similar route at similar speeds.
So it seems the learning procedure did something, but not nearly as much as the performance gain on the Mini with the Non Puaida hub motors.
I jellified my legs yesterday on the Mini, carving up a storm, but the 80mm urethane up front was having issues with some pebbles and twigs mid turn and paver cracks were also getting more jarring.
So I swapped back to the 105mm meepo wheels so that musclecar rake is gone and it is back to the large breed puppy look, with its oversize paws.
Carving feel is largely unchanged with the bigger wheels and the paver cracks and twigs and pebbles are much less consequential.
The 110mm wide Meepo motor hanger which came with my 540 motors did not come with a baseplate, and it did not fit any of my other baseplates, and so I transferred those 540 motors to a 120mm wide Puaida hanger which are now on the guppy.
I ordered the correct baseplate for that Meepo hanger and they are now on the Mini, with the Non Puaida motors.
When I reinstalled the Meepo 105mm wheels up front the track width was then wider than the rear, So I flipped the offset wheels over to better match front and rear. One of the bearings which came with these wheels had been making a light noise during carves on my heelside but not frontside, and then when I swapped them heel to toe the noise switched to toeside. When i flipped he wheels the noise became continuous, and just louder during carves, So I guess I need to swap the Zealous bearings from 80MM wheels to the Meepo’s.
I am playing the bushing swappathon trying to dial in the carve feel, finding the best compromise between low speed turn radius on toeside carves, and higher speed non twitchy overreactive wobble over road warbles when accelerating.
I’ve No idea how to really compare the durometer in order to order the Riptide bushings and pivot cups which will best match the feel I am looking for.
The Mini is so dang fun to carve I wound up doing 12 miles yesterday never going more than 200 meters from my garage. My legs are sore today.
My toeside turns need some work.
I am so backfoot heavy that I am not getting the lean I seek unless I transfer more weight over front foot, and this feels unnatural, and reminds me of Issues I occasionally had when surfing, and how I’d move my front foot closer to the toeside rail on some boards and conditions, in order to gain the leverage I wanted, but which then would leave me deleveraged on heelside turns. I would move my feet around so incrementally and constantly when surfing it became second nature, but there is very little room to move my feet on the mini, I need to do more hip twisting and weight shifting, and getting more weight over front foot on frontside turns is a constant battle of oh yea, I need to do that to get that arc I seek.
I can’t help but think how this would have helped my surfing.
When riding a wave one is often so overexcited and brain busy trying to read the wave, that thinking about weight distribution and hip twisting goes by the wayside. Riding The Esk8 one can actively just keep adjusting and experimenting and basically be able to close ones eyes and just feel, and listen to urethane hiss, and not have the thousand variables of the everchanging wave face, and fin and rail interaction to deal with.
