Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

My enclosure is deep enough I can elevate the relatively small ESC.

Will set the posts into enclosure interior securely, and whole area can later be cut out for a different heatsink when I go V esc.

There are issues with the copper bending when tightening the esc down on the studs, and a gap opening between it and esc in the center, but once posts locked to enclosure, maybe not.

I might have to prevent that, with more fiberglass, and expose the area inside the posts to exterior airflow, before it starts getting hotter outside.

Itching to ride it.

Realized i can Pretty easily transfer 7s enclosure and trucks to my pushskate while Finishing other board. Been riding the smaller one, which is fine for tight turns, but is too gutless to scratch the itch.

The road to the Kayak launch is all tore up for more than half the distaNce. Soon to be brand new asphalt.

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Why did I only just try this now?
It took less than 5 minutes to swap powertrain.

Holeeeee crap!

I know, should be DI Why.

Legs are burning.
Charging at 1.5C.

Should reverse kingpin trucks reverse the wedged riser pad too?

Looks like I get to design and build a flexi enclosure and battery for it.

Damn addicting,
all of it.

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That’s a killer looking deck man. Would be sweet to keep the flex - i love flexi decks.

This reminds me i need to swap out the esc for a vesc on my pintail hub board - picked up some flipsky 4.20 vescs fornit but i have been struggling with my high speed high range build so it got back burnered - the esc did the same thing as your 7s did and just lost all its power suddenly so it’s benched until I can get to it.

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I assembled that deck in 2003, using biscuts to hold mahogany stringers to baltic birch ply, but the glue failed, and seams opened up a bit.
Made a different board, no stringers, and stored this deck until I broke that deck.

I then inlaid the White oak butterflies to this deck, and rode it for years, but it got too flexy, with widepoint hitting asphalt during hard turns, so then I laid fin rope in an X pattern all over the hull and deck to stiffen it. which worked nicely.
I likely pushed it a few hundred more miles, before slapping the 7s drivetrain on it today, and now my back leg is rubber and twitching.

Amazing how that flex soaks up road bumps.
Its so much more fun to ride than kayak skate with same powertrain.

37.5" wheelbase. Now to peruse flexy enclosure designs, and dream of P50b’s.

I think I’m gonna have to make quick way to swap new 10s enclosure and drivetrain to it, till it gets its own.

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I still need to finish the final details on the battery.

I added the heatsink to dumb Daly BMS, not so much to act as a heatsink, but because its thickness brings it to the same height as battery pack, so the heatshrink shouldn’t tweak the 0.5mm G10 sheet on which it resides, as much.

I used some Karfurter k705 to glue the balance leads down over where wires cross over another fishpaper covered lead, imagining compressive abrading forces from foam padding.

Probably overkill, but better than underkill.

I am not so happy with balance wires as they come off the BMS connector, and split off. I want to be able to remove and probe the connector and manual balance in the future, which will mean removing the heatshrink over it, or not heatshrinking it in the first place.

There is a low profile mini fuse 58v rated holder and an XT30 connector to standard barrel connector. An unfused Anderson powerpole is running to BMS as well…

I think about skipping the barrel connector and just using XT30 and Anderson Powerpoleas panel mounted charge ports, but the barrel port is just a simple hole to drill, and I dont expect to charge at over 5 amps.

I might have gone overboard on the amount of inserts I used, and the 3/16" gasket is pretty dense, and won’t compress much, if at all.

Perhaps a staggered dual stack of 18650s could be shoehorned in at a later date, for a 10s4p, maybe 5p pack, but it looks like this board will become relegated to kayak tow vehicle duty only in the future, and I dont need huge range for that.

The new baTtery at 187.2 watt hours is about 84 more than the 7s2p battery which has been adequate when towing.

My right leg is sore from yesterdays carve session on my longboard.

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My here and now non V ESC.

Is going to be treated as if it were temporary, but not too temporary.

A 10s3p 42a of 21700, is just possible, if P packs 5 and six are unconventional…ally shaped.

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I slapped the cheap mountainboard truck and its 8" Pneumatics on the front of my long carver. No wheelbite issues.

I think its the most fun I’ve had on a skateboard.

Realized after achieving rubber legs , the 35max psi tires were up at 60psi.

Didn’t get much else done today.

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Itching to try 10S, and racing the radar returns.

Drilled holes for power button and charge port. Had to recess them, the sides of enclosure are so thick. Thermal grease esc to heatsink interface.
Plug and play connectors.

Cut a huge thick gasket, zip tied enclosure to long half pneumatic half urethane cruiser.
Step outside put board down , smells like rain, hit throttle, board shoots backwards.
Crap. New remote… go read the manual.

Ok there we go, open door, full on downpour.

Go charge the 36.12v battery.
Charge port dead.

Cut zip ties, find if I Push low profile mini fuse home in inline holder, it breaks contact.

Bend the guts, seat fuse lightly, it works. POS.

Annoyed.

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The road crown had mostly dried out.
Battery was 41.78v, accepting 0.22 amps. Close enough.

Motors are louder than on the 7s ESC.
Feels like nearly twice the torque.
Went to turn the brakes up to level 4, found them already there. But at least they felt smooth and linear. The 7s brakes were a bit stronger, but were 2, for 3 seconds , or 10, nothing inbetween.

Speedo on remote showed 21mph and still accelerating when ran out of straight dry road.

It felt faster than that, but its been 30 years since I downhilled that fast, or faster.

Scared myself.

Too dark, too wet, too dangerous.
But I had to try it.

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Well that didn’t take long.

I want more power.

I’ll retract the foolish ‘nearly double the torque’ comment.
Perhaps 30% more torque and speed.
Remote says 22mph max.

I can work with the brakes not being as strong as hoped, for now.

With my least wobbly pneumies up front, a firmer roadside bushing, and 80mm thanez in the rear, Carolina squat style, the handling on smooth new asphalt, feels insane with a very respectable turn radius for a 38" wheelbase.

Snowboard front foot, hit the now progressive brakes initiate the tail drift, then slam throttle and lay rail through the turn.

So fun to accellerate out of a turn and hold it as long as the asphalt allows.

Digging the better throttle and brakes and torque and speed compared to old ESC.

Man, this shit’s fun.

I should probably finish the enclosure. 2 zipties and two wraps of gafftape and a 1/2" thick gasket is holding solid though.

Can notice acceleration diminish as battery sags, but not as bad as 7S, and it seems to still allow nearly top speed, just takes longer to get there once sagged. My old esc just said nope, top speed 8.5mph.

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In my overexcitement to skate as much as possible, smoked my 400watt dc booster today.
I cranked it upto 5.2 amps at 41.98v for a 1c charge rate on my new 10s2p battery, but didnt check the input amperage, which should stay below 8 amps.

It was boosting from a 12v nominal lead acid bank

While I had a fan blowing over the booster, and its finned heatsinks were not beyond warm, The copper wire wrapped around the Torid turned purple /black.

My other 42vdc power supplies are even less capable, but, I can charge, but not at 5.2 amps, not from a 12vdc source anyway.

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Seems my lower wattage rated Dc booster is staying relatively cool at 10.3amp 13.06v input, with fan blowing over it, 3.23 amp 42v output. I could push it higher.

The micro board got mr30 soldered on motor phase wires, and dual diagonal drive is now active, with 7s enclosure and ESC as the source.

Brakes are even more dangerous with 73mm wheels and shorter wheelbase and narrower stance, but speed and torque not as good as when powering the 80mm hubs.

But it’s more fun than it was, and I get to take my time building the 10s battery and enclosure for it.

So sanity backup board activated.

Gotta make gasket, transfer new 10s enclosure and drivetrain to kayak tow vehicle, try and paddle it 5+ miles soon.

I want the long carolina squat half pneumatic cruiser to have its own fully pneumatic drivetrain, but that seems a ways off. I will be transferring 10s urethane drivetrain from kayak tow vehicle back to the pnuemy linasquat back and forth till then.

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Took the diagonal drive 7s2p’d mini out for a spin with a full battery this AM, and was kind of impressed.

Decided it had enough torque to be today’s Fionayak tow vehicle.
Other board is waiting for gasket’s glue to cure on enclosure, and weather is supposed to turn tomorrow.

It’s down a bit on speed compared the 80mm hubs, but it had enough juice that we took the long way back, and had to do a few complete stops for traffic, and I was not really feeling any sag.

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Any specific reason you’re still sticking with the hobbywing esc?

I only have two ESCs capable of handling 10s.

The unused untested 62$ ebay Lingyi, and the 100$ Hobbywing/Puaida.
The latter is smaller, and its remote has a display, 4 speed and brake settings.

The mini board, which was formerly 7s1p single drive. now just has the 7s2p enclosure installed with the original 7s dualdrive Esc and 7s2p battery, and a second motor on front truck

The ebay Lingyi is too big to fit in that enclosure.

I don’t know if the Puaida is Lingyi or Hobbytech or what is what.

It is the same shape/size as the 7s ‘Aladdin’ ESC which has the horrible dangerous brakes.

The ‘work with what you got’ principle :ok_hand:

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That, and I try and repurpose everything i can.

Today’s mini tow vehicle board has 10 p42as awaiting an enclosure and the larger Lingyi, but the 7s2p enclosure took me less than an hour to install onto It yesterday, and made today’s kayak outing possible.

The Puaida esc and remote are many fold better that the 7s ‘Aladdin’ esc, but I have no other basis for comparison.

The single drive escs ive used on 7s1p have so little power, all I really notice is there is a half second delay before it responds weakly, to input changes.

The unfinished enclosure had 42 miles of road grime on it.
Installed dense 3/16" tbjck gasket and dremelled the slightly recessed flats, for charge port, power switch, and the 18 truss head bolts.

Gonna paint it again, with laminating epoxy, but when the humidity is lower.

Man that is thiccc. How heavy is that enclosure?