More surface area contact is my hypothesis. Pressing it in there really increases the contact area for the quality of glue used.
Good test.
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The Tesa tape has that grid texture, for a little more tooth and surface area as well.
I did give it a quick wipe with 91% IPA before application
How quickly one compresses the hot glue around wire is likely a big factor in adhesion too.
Just saw some dolphin airborne, huge height, distance and loud concussive backsplash.
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Onlt 10s2p. But Bak45D âtablessâ cells, and 325wh vs the 187wh Ive been rolling with till now.
A long ways away from the beauty of most battery builds on this Forum
I like the looks of the separated red balance leads on the black Tesa tape, and the black hot glue too.
My â83â mm hub motor urethane is down to 77mm.
My 8x3" turf tires showing some wear too. Hopefully they dont become too puncture prone.
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Shame the 105mm â540 wattâ Meepo hub motors I desire, ship from China and are subject to the FutherMucking tarriffs.
Whatever that tarrif, tax % might currently be, it seems a lot of sellers are just sitting on orders, unable or unwilling to ship, while seeing how this ridiculous unnecessarily induced chaos plays out.
My 83mm, now 76mm âJKingâ hub motors still function fine, and their decreasing diameter means slightly more torque.
My Puaida/LingYi remoteâs odometer now says 1127 miles, and I returned them to service with something like 475 on the odometer on Feb 18.
I have lubed their bearings twice now, but just adding more grease, not flushing the old, then regreasing. They are getting noisier and noisier, and I am feeling more and more high frequency vibration in my back foot, which gets worse the hotter the motors get.
I have new inner bearings for them, but am not sure how hard they are to remove from the axleshaft, and have no puller type tool, or picklefork. I donât wanna be skateless, so have just been cruising a bit less, and cruising slower, alert for any quick changes to vibration and sound levels.
The crushed shell trail presents little issue to these hub motors. The shells are getting more compacted, with rain and traffic.
Fiona has been insisting we stop as soon as we enter the trail, so she can sniff and squat and hunch repeatedly.
She has proved she can easily poop in the moving chariot if I donât stop, so I stop when she steps forward, and the weight of chariot handle in my hand increases.
Instead of immediately placing esk8 in chariot and walking alongside, I just let her do her thing, following along and she will, after relieving herself, stop and indicate she wants to roll rather than walk, and I know even my old battery has enough gusto left to accelerate us from a standstill on 97% of the trail.
So I step off the skate only to bag her poo, and let her call the shots as to whether we walk or roll.
The Inboard m1 hub motors Arza sent me have been neglected. I dont wanna risk my Puaida ESC, and only spliced one 9 pin connectors so far anyway.
They refused to work proper on a 7s single drive esc meant for 70mm hub motors, sounding like there was internal mechanical interference, sometimes. I should try one on an OG focbox, butâŚ
My 90mm Puaida Hub motors gave me some 2k+ problem free miles before they got submerged and ruined, and were a lot quieter and smoother than the 83âs, with a higher top speed.
I recalled seeing them for sale on EBay from USA based sellers a while back, and decided why not look again. I do have another set of low mile sleeves for them I removed from the salt water submerged motors the night after.
I donât really need anything more, or better, and canât afford it right now anyway.
Want vs need, and I just need to be able to roll daily, and the worn bearing irreplaceable sleeve Jking hub motors are not long for this world at the 10-12 towing miles a day they accumulate now.
Saw an ebay seller located 80miles to my south had the 90mm Puaida motors in stock.
Came to 126$ with tax and shipping.
Iâll just have to swap some MR60s onto them, and then itâs basically plug and play.
Fiona and I had once hit 28mph with the former Puaida hub motors, wind assisted, but the Jkings were basically 22max mph at 82mm solo and are now 19mph at 76mm diameter, and a very saggy high mileage battery.
Iâve been staying away from the top speed lately just to keep 3500 +mile Dmegc-26e 10s2p battery from getting too hot, which it does anyway, and fear of the noisy bearings locking up.
I will lose some torque and braking with the bigger diameter, but my BAK45D 10s2p is almost ready. It should have far less resistance, and voltage sag, so make up for some of that torque loss.
I still have the lightweight mini build. Its enclosure is 90% done. Can fit two OG . It would be a low use kayak tow vehicle, grocery getter, and backup. It needs a 10s1p battery, since the 10s1p p42a I made for it got submerged and ruined.
I was able to get that battery to 56C riding hard on a hot day.
I am thinking it needs a tabless 10s1p, for the low heating/low sag reasons.
Wish I had the funds to pre-order some preproduction EVE50PL from Nelvick. Mooch tested some samples. It is an impressive cell.
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I got the new BAK45D 10s2p BMSâd, and strapped into enclosure last night, and at 41v, took it for a quick spin on dark roads with wet spots, solo.
Definitely extra torque felt, but not as much extra as hoped for, didnât try for top speed.
Charged to 42v at 8 watts, and this AM, loaded FionaGirl into her chariot and charged to the crushed shell trail.
Max speed with the 3500 mile DMEGC26-E battery had declined to 19mph towing and 22mph solo.
With the BAK45D we got upto 23mph, and the remote still indicated 4 bars, not two or one, or a flashing one.
I will have to plug in my handheld.voltmeter and see actual sag later. The dmegc sagged to 36.5 on the first accel of the charge by the time Ii hit 16mph
Reaccellerating on the CST after Fiona hunched and squatted, there was at least 25% more torque available.
The battery is basically 2 5s2p side by side, individually heatshrunk with clear, but one side partially ripped at the end when shrinking.
I am debating whether to use thicker blue heatshrink over the whole thing.
Iâve not buttoned it up with zipties immobilizing every wire yet, I just stuffed some foam rubber in for now.
Just got a tracking number for my 125$ 90mm Puaida hub motors.
They are shipping from not far away.
Iâll lose some torque, but gain comfort and top speed.
With rainy season kicking in I need to improve resistance to entry.
I think I am going to make a fiberglass lid and be able seal it to the enclosure.
I still need to be able to move it to the Kayakable midsize quickly.
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The CST entrance/exit has an incline and a 30â turn.
Exiting, with the 83mm hub motors and near full charged dmegc10s2p, and having built up max potential speed with chariot to my side, and then letting it fall back on the incline itself, sometimes, we barely made it all the way up. Most of the times not. Never made it with the ebay Lingyi on 90mm motors on either dmegc or p42a 10s1p. Not even close, not even once.
Always had to step off and drag chariot up.
Just now I had to actually let off throttle as there are some roots which need to be avoided, near the apex, and we coasted the last bit and still achieved asphalt with speed to spare, surprising us both.
Went the long way home, and with a good headwind and standing tall, passed the radar sign at 21mph that previously we maxed out at 18mph in semi speed tuck usually 17.
At home with board on bench, hub motors were 87c, warmer than usual for the similar route, as we went way faster.
I undid the velcro cinch straps on my enclosure, and hunted for Highest temperature on battery itself, lifting insulating padding foam, as in times past with DMEGC battery.
Measured 36.2C max, where 56.5 F was expected with the DMEGC pack.
Also, returned to 38.3v, instead of 35.7ish volts for about 1 mile less total distance when traveling at significantly less average speed on the Dmegc pack.
The esc heatsink was warmer than it has been, again as we traveled significantly faster than we had lately, but it was nowhere near what Iâd consider hot.
My Junkâs gone tabless, and itâs a huge improvement.
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So with old DMEGC 10s2p battery, several months ago, I tested voltage sag with a handheld voltmeter plugged into charge port. At full throttle, leaving my garage, It sagged from 42.0, to 36.5 by the time i reached the first patch of shade, where I could see the dim display. Remote indicated 16mph.
Just performed same test with BAK45D 10s2p battery. Sagged to 41.2v and Hit 21 mph in same distance.
Not a perfect comparison as hub motor urethane sleeves went from ~80mm to 76mm and it is with a warmer battery than months ago.
My almost 7 mile range towing Fiona, babying throttle, has increased to 10 miles, not babying it.
Thats the good.
Hereâs the bitching part.
New 90 mm hub motors were supposed to originally arrive today, then they changed it to yesterday, then back to today, and tracking has been saying âin transit to next facilityâ for the last 36 hours, and mailman has come and gone today.
No new motors.
I want beer.
But drinking alcohol with three stents in my heart seriously fucks with my blood pressure and gives me mild Angina for days afterwards and the nitrogylcerin pills dont seem to help
And those GD fuckers charge more for NA beer, and NA beer does not make my moms alzheimmered brain less annoying and infuriating.
And Iâm outta weed, and donât know how to get more.
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These JKing branded 83mm hub motors, have been surprisingly reliable.
They came on my 7s junk, and I ran them.on 7s for a few hundred miles, then 10s for a few hundred miles more before getting 90mm Puaida hub motors and retiring them.
They came out of retirement in February and have accumulated 700 miles since, and are now down to 75.5mm diameter.
They now need new bearings and new sleeves are unobtanium, and some 90mm Puaida hub motors graced my doorstep this afternoon, so they will go back into retirement.
They do have some life left in them. I do have new bearings for them. They could potentially go on my Mini build in the future. That will be a low use lightweight grocery getter, kayak tow vehicle, backup board.
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Youâre using miles which makes me think youâre in the US. Where are you located that makes finding cannabis an issue? Itâs legal in so many places. They practically give it away where I live. Maybe make a road trip out to Cali.
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I had to move from North County San Diego to Florida in Dec '22 to help take care of my Mom.
In NCSD I hadnât had to buy weed in a decade as people just gave it to me and I gave half of that away as I consume very small amounts, Like an eight lasts me 7 months.
Here, my source said his source went dark, and I donât know people here.
Not sure what is required to get medical here. Dont really want my name on that list. Rather black market.
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Mild consumer here too. Hopefully Florida comes around but definitely wouldnât hold my breath. If ChatGPT is right you have to drive all the way to Virginia and your way back crosses at least two state lines with it illegally. Big change from San Diego.
FWIW, I know first hand how bad Alzheimerâs is. Youâre a damn good person for moving out there to take care of family. Honestly donât know if I could do it. Nothing crazier than looking at someone youâve known your entire life and knowing they have no idea who you are. Sometimes itâs even worse than that. Makes you feel like shit for not wanting to see that person and sometimes even worse when you do see them because thereâs nothing you can do when they react horribly. Nothing anyone can say will really help but just know youâre not the only one dealing with it. Best of luck man.
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My mom still knows who I am, but that day is coming, and itâs so depressing knowing as bad as it is now, itâs just gonna get worse.
Her bad days lately, make me regret surviving a heart attack 7 weeks ago.
Itâs certainly a cruel disease, and system.
If she were institutionalized theyâd just dope her up drooling in a smelly corner, charging 14k$ a month, but we, as caregivers, are not allowed to administer any anxiety, calming meds when she is having an episode. Episodes where walks in circles cursing us, telling us she wishes we would die, and goto hell, and that be the only time she can form a coherent sentence, and it just goes on and on.
I dont feel like a good person when all I want to do is yell âshut upâ over and over, when my patience and empathy have just eroded away to less than nothing and is replaced by anger and frustration and dread.
Being able to take a half lungful, restores some empathy, and I am able to somewhat understand what she is trying to say, and communicate, and calm her down.
Iâm lucky my dad is still sharp, and I can load Fiona into her chariot, step on my esk8, and escape this nuthouse for a bit every day.
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Swapped my worn JKing hub motor truck, with the NOS Puaida 90mm truck.
I also swapped my salvaged low mileage sleeves onto them.
There are slight design differences between the sleeves, but NBD.
Added thermal grease between motor shaft and hanger receptacle, as doing this to the JKing hanger made the hanger ~30f hotter than without, after a long roll. So, should be cooler stator, to some unknown degree.
I transferred the bushings from Jking truck to the Puaida, but the feel is completely different, and not in a good way. Twitchy at speed, and wider turning radius going slow.
I was expecting less torque, but it feels the same, if not a bit more than the smaller Jking motors. Same ESC, battery.
I was expecting less brakes, and they are at least 20% worse.
I was expecting much better freeroll, and it is almost as good as an analog.
So quiet too.
Practically stealth.
Much less vibration making it to back foot.
Got upto 27mph towing Fiona, and definitely do not need to go this fast, especially with the twitchy factor.
The larger diameter, and wider sleeves do not sink into the crushed shell trail as much, and we have never been able to traverse the CStrail faster than we did this evening. Throttle to spare too.
On the way back, accelerating at the radar sign, got a wobble at 22mph. Worst wobble yet. I coasted to a stop, and tightened rear truck but it feels no different at speed, just harder to turn tight at slow speed.
The JKing hanger acts like a deep cup washer on boardside bushing.
I dont know about the rake differences between the trucks, or how the bigger heavier motors affect things, regarding the twitchy factor.
The slightly higher rear ride height can also be contributing to the unwanted twitchy factor.
I need to mitigate it, somehow.
A cup washer on hanger underside itself?
Iâd rather not transfer Puiada motors to JKing hanger. Jking hanger does not fit Puaida baseplate, and JKing baseplate has wobbly kingpin.
That wobble at 22mph kind of freaked me out. I hit the same section at similar speed earlier today with Jking truck, and no wobble.
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I noticed a discrepancy in what my remote said, and what the radar speed sign said.
I had programmed remote for 90mm wheels, and I recall my previous Puaida 90mm motors, that number was nearly perfect, but these older model motors, it was reading 25 when radar sign said 22mph.
I later went back to the sign and calibrated it. until it aligned at 12, 16, and 23mph.
I have to assume the number of pole pairs is different with these motors.
Am still happy with their near silence and acceleration, and the speed at which I can travel over the crushed shell trail. Brakes, not so much. They were much stronger with the 76mm worn Jking hub motors.
They roll over sidewalk cracks, and the bridge expansion joints much better, but those still annoy me, and make me dream of all pneumatics.
I put one of my hardest duro short barrel bushing on boardside, and swapped from roadside cone, to a tall barrell and cupped washer, and got a little of the twitchy factor attenuated. I think it needs a dewedging though. Above 23mph, and and parallel road irregularity just induces instability.
Rounding the sharp edges of the sleeves helped as much as the bushing swap, me thinks, road irregularity induced half wobble wise.
Range, does not seem to have taken a hit with bigger motkrs. It freerolls so well, and is so quiet, that I let some air out of the turfs.
The ESC heatsink is definitely running hotter, went from averaging 109F with Jking motors to 119f with Puaidas.
Iâm cruising faster, using less throttle to do so.
I had cut up rounded and smoothed some extra deep finned heatsink, and stuck it to my Dumb Daly BMS with double sided thermal tape. I had previously, temporarily just sandwiched it in squishy yoga matt foam rubber under a velcro cinch strap before. One layer under, 3 atop to immobilize it.
The BMS is only rated 10 amp charge, 20 amp discharge, but bypassed for discharge of course.
The BAK45D has a max charge rate of 13.2amps. Safe to say Ill not be approaching anything remotely close to that. 160 watts is the most Iâve yet chosen, and the BMS is rated for 420/10 amps, 5.5 x2.5 charge port at 10 too.
The finned heatsink on bms is all rounded and smoothed, and I used small zip ties around my wiring through mini roving bridges so that nothing can move and chafe, or vibrate and make noise.
Itâs been really hot here.
After a roll, when I return board to bench, I take IR temp gun readings of heatsink, sleeves, motor caps, hanger, enclosure away from, and atop battery, and on the 8x3-4 turf tire pneumatics. too
With old battery, the enclosure atop battery was 10-12F hotter than away from battery. With BAK battery, it is about 1.5 to 2F hotter. Battery sits insame foam cradle. Old rigid battery had a 0.5mm layer of G10 on its bottom, and top.
Anyway, every time I quickly flip warm enclosure over, and hunt for hottest part.of battery, I have yet to see over 41.5C, where my old battery, I had less range, and travelled far slower, babying throttle, and was always flirting with 60C on hot days.
My 8x3-4 turf tires basiclly have no tread left in the middle.
I need to increase enclosure water resistance.
Fionaâs Chariot needs some more sanding and to be sealed with epoxy.
Itâs been getting a lot of compliments
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A week + of rolling 10- 18 miles a day with new old stock Puaida 90mm hub motors, powered by the new Baks45D 10s2p battery, has me pretty satisfied over all.
Torque is up, range is way up, comfort, compared to 83mm hub motors worn to 76mm is up too.
Top speed is up, but not as high as the old Puaida hub motors, which required a lot more time and distance to achieve ~28mph, than these NOS motors do to achieve 26.
Part of the top speed loss could be me running the low PSI 8x3 turf tires up front, but with the speedometer reading high, when set for 90mm motors, I believe these current motors have a higher pole pair count, which with same non programmable ESC means less wheel rpm, If i understand correctly.
The motors are so quiet, especially on smooth asphalt.
Weâve been rolling the far park and hood, far faster, and without the 7s2p portable charger charging away while walking through the park. More overall distance, going faster, with more comfort, and returning to battery not much hotter than ambient, which has been searingly hot.
Since my rigid enclosure was made for the midsize, which only gets use now when it is time for towing the kayak, It is sealed very poorly to the concave free flexy long cruiser formerly analog Deck. 2 layers of different density foam, totalling 13.5mm thick sandwiched between, barely compressed, under three velcro cinch straps, the rear most strap left much looser and allowing more tail flex.
With Wet season finally kicking in, and pop up showers happening so quickly, I need to greatly increase water resistance. I wanna make a fiberglass cap to seal enclosure to itself, and still be able to transfer to midsize deck in 2 minutes.
I started on this the other day, but then thinking 7 steps ahead for ideal results, confused my brain and I walked away. The garage is so damn hot and the mosquitoes ridiculous.
What should be simple became overly complicated and might interfere with that eveningâs sanity roll.
Fiona has basically refuses to go for walks from the house. Even first thing in the morning she doesnât want to squat or hunch in back yard. The second we hit crushed shell trail she wants out though to do both, then jumps back in so we roll the rest of the trail. The CST is where the new motors and battery make the most obvious improvement. I used to be loathe to stop or slow and lose momemtum, now accelerating back upto speed from a full stop, is easy
Maybe some cling wrap and blue masking tape around enclosure will hold me over until I sort out the enclosure lid making procedure in my mind.
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I might have shot my foot again, but I might have gotten lucky.
Went kayaking with FionaâŚOn the way back, we got caught in the rain.
I had taped my full size neoprene gasket to the enclosure, but not to the best of my ability.
I kept the board wheels down and level when I got home, dropped the enclosure and hub motor hanger to garage floor, and lifted board away.
There was water atop the full.size neoprene gasket, in the concave.
There was about 2 tablespoons of water inside the enclosure. The battery is elevated about 10mm in its own foam cradle, and the ESC is also elevated 10mm or so.
When I removed battery from foam cradle, the foam was dry.
The ESC is a potted bathtub, It was still dusty on top, still dry.
Its antenna was blue taped to enclosure bottom.
The blue tape was wet. I peeled off the blue tape dried it, and drizzled some Deoxit Gold down the wire to where it joins the flat.
I canât see any signs of water having touched the battery, or esc or dumb Daly BMS
I pulled the BMS balance plug and plugged in my adapter to check. There is a 11mV delta in the 3.743v range.
So I might have dodged a bullet.
Time will tell I guess.
I was able to roll the Crushed shell trail, with 4 90mm urethane wheels, towing the kayak, needing most of the throttle, and the soft spots were sketchy AF.
No way the smaller hub motors or battery would have allowed this.
When I got to the kayak launch, I realized I forgot my T tool to remove front hanger, so that esk8 fits in kayak hatch, and i need to remove the tires from kayak axle to fit in hatch too. I rolled back to get them, solo.
The shoulder felt pretty good padding the 2.25 miles to sandbar in the pass. Lots of party boats filled with Bikinis were there, and they all loved Fiona, and she got to play ball with at least a dozen different people.
I checked the radar, as the eastern horizon was darkening, and the big red blob 7miles inland was stationary, but growing. One red blob to the SE, was growing, and slowly moving towards us, so we bailed.
The SE horizon kept getting darker, as I paddled that direction, ever more urgently.
The last half mile cool strong headwinds started ruffling the bay, thunder was rumbling, and I was really throwing everything I could into the paddle, against the wind and tide.
My lower back is now on fire.
Being able to tow the kayak over the crushed shell trail has blown my mind a bit.
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Super sore, all over, from paddling my ass off trying to beat the thunderstorm yesterday.
Decided no rolling happening today.
Emptied enclosure. Tested battery and ESC and motors , all good so far.
The Puaida truck being so twitchy, with so much bump steer, was only mildly improved with dewedging.
Old JKing truck with smaller motors was all around better regarding twitch, bump steer, all around maneuverability and feel.
Biggest difference I can see between two trucks, is the JKing hanger enclosed the boardside bushing pretty tightly, the Puaida is wide open.
When I rolled the bumpy CST with midsize deck yesterday, no dewedging riser, but tightened trucks, and then raced back home for my T tool, the bump steer and instability at speed scared the shit outta me.
Since I am not rolling today, I decided to try and mimic the Jking hanger design with a JB weld dam.
Removed paint with diamond coated cut off wheel for bond strength, taped bushing, and waxed tape, compressed bushing slightly, weighed equal parts A and B.
Perhaps it will help.
Perhaps it feels so much less stable with more bump steer, is the bigger heavier motors with about a 12mm wider track.
Gonna try and make a fiberglass enclosure sealing lid with the rest of the day while enclosure is emptied, and while JB weld cures.
Seems I got super lucky regarding the water intrusion rolling in the rain yesterday.
I think Id cry if the new 10s2p BAK 45d met the same general fate as the 10s1p P42a did.
The BAKâs torque and range increase is so satisfying.
Am debating covering the battery with blue heatshrink. I like the clear, but each 5s2p have their own tube of clear, and can rub against each other, but being a flexible battery, blue shrinkâs stiffness and compressive force has me hesitant to do so.
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Really couldnât afford it, and it does not win the want/need argument, but I ordered 13 EVE 40PL since they dropped to 3.99$ each.
The 3 extra for a 3s1p 11.1v nominal pack, if I make no mistakes welding.
I regret only ordering two extra BAK45D.
One sees use in an Armytek C2promax headlamp which on turbo2 can draw close to 11amps and throw 3720 lumens for a minute or so, but I have a 50S, and the rewrapped 50G it came with for it. The BAK should run far cooler at higher voltage, but the light canât handle the heat the led produces on turbo2 for very long and throttles output to 800ish anyway, so itâs likely a wash.
More 0.1mm copper sheet, a dumb Daly bms, fishpaper, and mini LP fuse holder also ordered.
My small enclosure, designed to fit my mini build, and a 10s1p and two 0G focboxes deserves to be populated and employed, and at 3.99$ each for the 40PL, I could not resist. Paying double for preproduction 50pl would have been ideal, but the Mini is not designed for range or power, just lightweight grocery getter, kayak tow duty, and all around backup board duty.
I did not do a great job with My JBweld bushing encapsulator dam, but it should function as designex, and hopefully it helps de-twitchifyâs the truck, and reduce bump steer.
I didnt mix any epoxy yesterday, for enclosure lid. Should be doing that now, not typing
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Got fiberglass saturated with epoxy, and is now curing atop the enclosure opening.
The concave presented/presents issues, as usual.
I used 1 layer of bondo brand fiberglass cloth that I estimate is 7.5oz per square yard, topped with one layer of woven roving at nearly 24oz per square yard which is about 800 gsm for the metric minded.
I had taped some plastic, pulled tight across enclosure opening, and wetted out the 2 layers of epoxy on a piece of clean, quality uncreased cardboard, allowing it to soak as much as it could, then squeeged the excess epoxy off to the sides.
The thick woven roving does not go as fully clear as one would hope. Perhaps it would with polyester resin, but I am an epoxy guy.
I lifted the 2 layers with gloved fingers, and laid them atop plastic, and adjusted as needed, then laid more plastic atop, then put the deck on top, aligned it as best as I could by eye, and weighted it, though this last step was likely unnecessary.
Securing this lid so that it seals tightly, without butyl or silicone, and so the enclosure can be transferred quickly and easily between the midsize kicktail, and long cruiser decks is the goal.
Not sure how well this idea will work.
There are 9 screws on each side of enclosure, but a lack of fasteners near the baseplates as I was trying to maximize enclosure length when I designed it.
The epoxy is 3 hours cured and still somewhat malleable. I have placed 5mm spacers in between enclosure and lid on the long edges.
This should add a little more concave to the lid, so that the lid can press against ennlosure more firmly by baseplates in middle where there are no fasteners.
I was thinking brass sexbolts to secure the lid to the enclosure compressing a full size 3mm thick neoprene gasket.
I am not sure how thick and stiff/rigid it will be when fully cured.
92F in the garage, so full cure, and full stiffness should happen quicker than usual
No rolling for two days now.
Fiona is like WTF?
I did clean treat her chariotâs 4.10-3.50-4 tires, but she looked unimpressed with my efforts.
I gotta final sand shape and then seal the chariot soon.
I donât much care how most things look, but I have a compulsion to make wood as pretty as I can, within reason.
I want to darken the light colored Doug Fir chariot basket to better match the Western Red Cedar poles, and Teak handles.
Gonna burn basket with a propane torch, and fine bristle wire brush to blend. Kind of looks like a dark walnut stain, and epoxy hen penetrates more deeply.
I could of curse use stain, but hate the smell and the cure time before epoxy can be laid atop stained wood.
.
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Why would you want a seal without butyl? Are you wanting a leak?
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