Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

[SternWake]

Point taken.

Butyl is a little too permanent for me, at this point, but soon.

I’ve been able to drop this enclosure in seconds, to check things over.

Mostly it was to measure how hot my old battery was getting, and to run fans over it while charging, in the dry season. The BAK 45D pack stays so cool in comparison, that that won’t be necessary.

I still want to add a few more strategically located roving bridges to the interior to totally immobilize all wires, wire up the second charge port, and perhaps add a second panel mount XT90 direct to ESC.

But tomorrow AM I’m gonna return battery and esc, stuff some.foam rubber and roll to the crushed shell trail and the waters edge.

It will be a while before I button it up proper.

I’d love to be able to seal the new lid to enclosure with just fasteners and a gasket, but realize that is unlikely, and some butyl rope will be necessary to achieve the Ingress protection I desire.

Need a Goretex vent

[SternWake]

I taped off a loopkey, to pot the 8 AWG bridge in extra epoxy.

Very annoyed to see that the epoxy made between the contact and Nylon, on the side without the resistor.

I thought the contacts were pretty well sealed inside the nylon, and if not airtight, at least tight enough that epoxy wouldnt get past.

Dagnabit.

I was able to carbide burr the epoxy out, but no doubt the surface is compromised.

I put everything back in my enclosure and used blue maskng tape to hol full size neoprene gasket to enclosure, and black hot glue where phase wires enter, and also taped over the 18 bolt holes. Temporary until I next decide to work on it.

By no means sealed well but far better than I have yet had it.

The thicker battery nestled in the foam could be an interference issue when mating to the midsize concave kicktail deck, but that will only happen on kayak outings. The long cruiser deck is flat.

I also eliminated the fatter 12mm thick gasket, so gained some ground clearance.

The JBweld dam on hanger, to enclose boardside bushing like a cup washer, seems to have greatly improved bump steer, but did little for the twitchy factor.

I’ve not tried to tune it with tension or different bushings.
Pouring rain right now.

[SternWake]

UPS dropped off my 13 EVE40PL a few hours ago, Bought at 4$ each from 18650battery store.

111QNDBH - 191

2 Lowest cells each measure 3.5367v, highest measures 3.5400v

They range in weight from 64.06grams, to 64.45 grams.

For reference:
My BAK45D weighs 66.55 grams
My samsung 50G weighs 68.87 grams
My samsung 50s weighs 70.21 grams.

Sofirn 3000mah 18650 45.99 grams
EVE35V 18650 47.22 grams.

16340s
Vapcell T8 850mah 19.01g
Sofirn 800mah 17.51g
Unknown 700 18.17g

Sanyo nimh AA Eneloop ~ 15 years old,
25.68grams

14500 1200mah Vapcell F12 20.77grams

The two heaviest EVE 40pl cells also measure the lowest voltage, but the lightest cell is not the highest voltage, but not far away from being so.

They all have the CCC logo, indicating they were made sometime after Aug 25? 2024. Not sure on that date.

I downloaded a QR code reader APP but it came up empty on the EVE cells.

10 of these EVE will be for a 10s1p for my mini, the other 3, if no weldi

ng issues arise, will he for a 3s1p. I have plenty of 12v fans and leds to power.

I have some 2200mah 3s1p packs of off brand 10 amp CDR cells that came in a failed 35$ 7s1p board. They suffice for now. They were my first spot welded packs. One has 0.15 pure nickel, the other 0.1 copper ,0.1 nickel plated steel sandwich.

Probably be a while before I can start building the 10s1p. I have no weld lipo anymore, my old one started leaking electrolyte.

Wanna go for a roll, but hear thunder rumbling, getting louder

[SternWake]

My 21$ cheapo spot welder’s weld lipo, is no more. It was just a Zee 3s 5.2ah

Always wondered if a better weld battery would allow thicker copper Nickel plated steel sandwich. 0.1mm copper is so flimsy. 0.1 NPS on top helps in that regard, but then interferes with soldering series connections.

I blew up two other cheapo spot welders trying to use large 12v AGMs as a weld battery. I could see if this purple.one can handle it, as I have a backup PCB, but even if it can, i either got to spot weld on laying on the floor, or move 160lbs of battery atop my workbench.

The BAK45D 10s2p battery’s performance is so satisfying. When I get to ride alone, I am pretty impressed with the acceleration, and the 28mph my 90mm hub motors can achieve is simply just faster than I should go.

When towing Fiona, the crushed shell trail, and another nature trail in a nearby park, can be traversed easily. I used to have to maintain momentum, and/or push to start, but now can just throttle up from standstill even in the softer spots, and rarely need the full available throttle range.

The Mini grocery getter build for which the 10s1p EVE40PL is intended, is not ready to go. I could and should get it going on my 104wh 7s2p now, for a backup.

Nelvick at @DIY500AMP.COM has been testing AwithZ capacitor based spot welders, models.from ~10kw power, upto 60+. He was having issues with hit Glitters. The 160$ 10kw model seems able.to.do what I want, but I only intend to build one more battery, and as always my budget is pathetic., and 0.1copper, with 0.1nickel plated steel sandwich is proven adequate for my power levels, but I just hate the idea of resistance heating of conductors, but also buying a 3s lipo whose only use will be as a weld Battery.

My Fiberglass enclosure lid project is on hold.
It is not as rigid as I thought it would be. The blue masking tape holding the full size neoprene gasket to my enclosure, is a pretty good temporary seal. I even black sharpied half of the blue tape.
I’m thinking of glassing 18 chicago bolts to the lid Under some stiffening roving, in order to evenly compress a gasket seal, and to have easy future access to the internals without the butyl mess.

I burned up a bunch more barrell sanders on Fiona’s chariot. I really need to prettify it, and seal it, and add some roving in the high stress areas, but it gets used 3 times a day, so working on it takes a backseat to using it, unfinished, as is.

[DIY500AMP.COM]

Sadly the Glitters welders are having issues. I believe the issue is they drop off quality by using different mofettes. 811H and 801H are having issues. The worse part is the factory is refusing give warranty. That is not good.

AWithZ are very powerful welders and so far are working well and they have pretty good futures.

[SternWake]

I was disappointed to hear of the issues with the Glitters, and lack of warranty support.

@Dinnye has an 811, and tore the bottom of a p42a removing 0.3mm copper.

The double/triple pulse feature and the ‘preheating’ seem to really help get solid welds going with the AwithZ’s.
Hopefully they prove reliable.

Looking forward to seeing if you can spot weld that 0.5mm and 0.6mm pure copper with that AWithZ P120D 69.2kW beast of a Spot Welder.

[DIY500AMP.COM]

I still have my Glitter 811H that is a freaking tank. 3 years of daily abuse and still rock solid. I am doing the same now with AWithZ to see how they hold and so far solid. Only the time will give the reliability name. They offer an excellent support now and guarantee. That is what matter at the moment for me.

[SternWake]

I wish I’d had the funds to pre-order the EVE 50PL from you at 8$ per, or even now at 9$.
Honestly, I shouldn’t have bought the 13 EVE 40PL from your competitor at 3.99$ each, but I freaked out when seeing that price, and that decided some groceries and beer were unnecessary.

I am loving the BAK45D A04 10s2p battery.

Any word on the BAK50D? I think I remember you saying in one of your videos that you have a connection, and some samples en route.

---

I have a smart 20amp 10-17s JBD BMS, but it is one of the larger ones, and have just used the small 10amp charge 20amp discharge Dumb Daly BMS’s on my 3 esk8 battery builds instead, wlred for charge only of course.

The retired DMEGC 26-r 10s2p pack is still pretty well balanced , ~23mV at 36.5v rest, after 3.5 k miles or so, but might be balanced that well whether the Daly does start balancing when a p group starts getting above 4.18v, or not. IDK.

The 10s1p P42A met its demise in the bay after maybe 200 miles. I was able to get that pack to 55C exterior, so a tabless cell pack is desirable for its replacement.

My 10s2p BAK45D had an 11mv Delta 2 weeks or so ago.

I’ve no evidence these Daly BMS even work as they claim, so perhaps it was unwise to order another for my 10s1p EVE40PL.
But I did, on June21, From China.

With new Tarriffs was about 4-5$ more than previously.

It arrived today July 3, via UniUni, some newish delivery company. Same company that dropped off my meter of 70mm wide fishpaper a few days ago, ordered the same time. No rush, lowest price free shipping ebay purchase.

This newest 10s Daly BMS, instead of 10amp charge, 20amp discharge, says 15 amps for both. It also has a short temp sensor which none of my other Daly’s do. It feels about 0.5mm thicker, though I did not bust out calipers to verify. It also shifts the balance plug receiver to the side instead of being centered.

The one on top was the submerged one from P42A pack, RIP.

The EVE40PL has a max charge rate of 2C(8amps)
The BAK45D has a max charge rate of 13.2amps, so 26.4 amps for a 2P.

I rarely charge above 160watts (3.8 amps), and I have attached a 12mm thick finned heatsink to my Daly BMS’.

I guess its possible I might exceed 10amps charging on the 10s2p BAK45D one day. Maybe I should put the new 15amp charge rated Daly on it, instead.of the 1p EVE which is limited to 8 amps max.

I’ve no 12v weld battery for my cheapo welder, and the Mini’s enclosure is not totally finished, and I’ve yet to get the dual OG focboxes and the mini remote going, so this 10s1p EVE 40PL battery build is not a rush build.

The 1/4 mile long Crushed Shell Trail has a ‘no motorized vehicles sign’,. and there are some cameras monitlring the Kayak racks. I’ve been blasting full throttle past that camera, and had one of the gate guards tell me the powers that be are upset with me and are threatening me with a 200$ fine if I continue.
I’d always slowed, or stopped completely when there were pedestrians, but with new BAK battery, and new Puaida motors have been able to travel it quickly.

I can roll a bit more than half way before the camera can see me, and have been rolling out from that point, but the bugs and the heat suck and Fiona is upset having to walk. Today, I walked under the camera with her and eak8 in chariot, next to esk8.

Booooo!
In the evenings the bugs on the trail are completely intolerable at walking speed,.so basically we won’t go there at that time any more.

[SternWake]

94 degrees Fahrenheit, 62% humidity, got Covid+ parents settled in front of digital Pacifier.

Hosed down Fiona, loaded her into chariot, brushed her hair back, and hit the throttle.

1/2 mile in…What’s that rattle?

Pull out T tool, tighten baseplate bolts a smidge, none were loose.

Rattle still there.

I keep my trucks as loose as I can, without cup washer rattling.

Can’t spin bushing’s cup washer by hand, but tighten Nut a half turn anyway.
Nope.

Perhaps metal buckle on velcro cinch strap . Reposition and tighten.
Nope.

Return home extra slow. Balls.

Check 4 bolts holding metal plate holding hub motors sure axle to hanger receptacle. Port side tight, starboard side a little loose. Tighten. Test 6 motor screws, all tight both motors. Test 5 sleeve screws, 2 on one side took maybee 1/8th turn. Test ride, rattle rattle. Damn.

Perhaps a shell fragment got in a hollow gap between baseplate and dewedging riser. Remove hanger and baseplate, no shell. Damn. Return.

Unstrap enclosure from deck. Look at all those crushed shells between deck and gasket in the concave.

Whohoo ! but The rattle did not sound like shells on wood, says my logic receptors.
Shaddup.

Restrap enclosure, reload Fiona. Hit throttle.

Rattle rattle. Dammit!

Remove enclosure, peel off blue tape holding neoprene gasket to enclosure. Rip gasket slightly. Balls!

Check 4 nuts holding ESC to heatsink. Maybe 1/8 to 1/6th a turn. Not enough to cure a rattle me thinks.

Check heatsink to enclosure screws, same, perhaps 1/8th turn. Not enough to cure a rattle.

Check charge port 5.5x2.5 nuts, same. Tighten the nuts, compress O-rings a bit more.

Check all wiring and XT and MR connectors. Perhaps.one XT 90 could have moved, but the rattle sounded more metallic. Damn. Add a few more zip ties.

i don’t know. Was drenched in sweat and gave up while re-taping gasket to enclosure and a mosquito buzzed my ear.

Fiona is all upset. We were nearly half way to the park when I turned around.

The189$ ‘540watt’ 105mm Meepo hub motor hanger I wanted, and ordered, but then canceled due to 130% Tarriff bullshit, are now 159$, on Amazon, with a 20% off discount code.
Should I?
Will I?
Did I already?

Hmmmm.

Got a bit over an hour of daylight, and We only rolled perhaps 3.5 miles today so far.

Edit: changed photo to a non blurry one.

Rattle is gone.
We rolled several miles down to 32.14v.
I was doing laps out front trying to get a hard shut off, see how far I can go once it beeps 4 times, 4 separate times.

Way different behavior than DMEGC pack, and the p42A 1P pack, the latter was a hard shut off less than 3/4 mile after it beeped once. This BAK45D pack seems to have at least a slow 3/4 miles after the first time it beeps 4 times.

So nice to not worry about this pack overheating.

Pretty sure I have enough range to cross the draw bridge to the Key, and get to the beach, and back.

[SternWake]

I know hub motors suck, but I like the low maintenance, and their silence, and ignorance is bliss, as I’ve yet to ride any respectable esk8.

My formerly analog baltic birch super flexy deck soaks up a lot of vibration on the rough stuff, and I can and do move forward putting more weight on the pneumatics, less on the urethane, and have more length of birch behind back foot to soak up even more vibrations traversing the rough stuff, or the soft stuff.

One range test, I feared being able to roll all the way home and moved most of.my weight over the urethane, for better efficiency, as I keep the 8x3" turf tires at 12psi or less.

I never use the kicktail when riding, but do use it every single time I arrive and stop, to pivot the board into my hand and lift it into chariot, or atop workbench/charging station, and sometimes when walking behind it, will pivot nose side to side, rather than lift tail with foot, to redirect it.

My only complaint with the deck is that it is not wide enough to put more leverage for a tighter slow speed turn radius, but I keep trucks so loose, it is not much of a factor. The flexy tail, at speed and hitting a bump or road warble will accentuate the twitchy nature of the Puaida truck, but no consequential death wobble so far.

Regarding the Twitchy nature of Puaida truck, some combinations of mitigation efforts, and getting used to it, have occurred.

That same sections of road at 23+ MPH which nearly caused stained shorts with a violent wobble, no longer does at 25+ mph.

Dewedging the rear truck helped, but not as much as expected.

Making a JBweld dam on the hanger to enclose the boardside bushing like a deep cup washer, almost completely eliminated the significant bump steer issue, and helped slightly with the twitch too.

Yesterday, I moved the baseplate back, extending the wheelbase a bit, and used a shorter boardside bushing, shorty’s red doh doh’s barrel both top and bottom. This combo is by far the best yet in terms of slow speed turn radius, and twitch reduction, and.I still keep the nut only tight enough to keep cup washer from rattling.

The blue tape holding gasket to enclosure worked great at keeping dust out, but I didn’t have to.roll in the rain with it.

I could use a bit more ground clearance, having bottomed out on a nature trail in a park.
Interestingly I can’t find any evidence of those incidents. My finned heatsink is the likely impqct spot, yet its paint and black sharpie don’t show it.

Adding a half inch riser to back.truck could happen, but will reduce deck’s angle, and affect how the board turns, and I might not like it.

The 105mm motor sleeves will give me 7.5mm more.clearance. Brakes will likely be too weak though.

[SternWake]

Fiona’s Chariot lost some more weight today.

[SternWake]

Used up another 20 or so Dremel barrel sanders.

I keep a large fanny pack in the front of the chariot, which blocks some of .some of the belly cooling airflow through the chariot
I opened up the frontal area some more anyway, trying to remove all sharp corners, smooth everything, Imagining being an air molecule passing by and through.

I’ve not weighed it in a while, but I will turn more of its weight to dust.

Feels lighter and more wind slippery already.

[SternWake]

The $136.10 taxed and shipped Meepo ‘540’ watt hub motors with 105mm sleeves arrived.

I was surprised, and disappointed, to see that instead of aluminum, the urethane Sleeve is cast onto plastic.

In the middle is an unused sleeve from the NOS Puaida motor, on the right, a worn original Puaida Motor sleeve.

Puaida sells 105mm ‘donut’ sleeves, and the picture shows the same shape as Meepo, but a different ‘tread’ design, and they are cast into Aluminum.

I need to change mr30 to mr60 on the new Meepo motors before I can test them.

I only have one MR60.
More MR60 are ordered.

Supposed to Rain a lot next few days with potential tropical storm Dexter to form, so not sure when I can try these motors and sleeves.

My NOS Puaida motors now have the messy as F thermal grease between motor and aluminum sleeve, so while I can put these Meepo 105mm sleeves on the Puaida motors, I might just wait.

I have no idea yet, the internal differences (if any) of the 400watt Puaida and 540watt Meepo motors. They feel different, spinning them by hand.

With my Puaida ESC, the brakes were pretty good with the 83mm Jking hub motors, much less strong on the 90mm Puaida motors, so will probably be horribly weak with the 105mm sleeves on the Puaida motors, and the Meepo motors too.

No real specs on either 400 Puaida or 540 meepo’s. Id be excited if the meepos had more torque on same ESC, but don’t expect it.
Time will tell.

I can put the 99mm Puaida sleeves on Meepo motors if I don’t feel the 105s ride smoothness is worth the loss of torque and brakes.

[SternWake]

The Meepo hanger, which does not say ‘shredder’ as the pictures do, is about 12mm narrower than the Puaida and Jking hangers.

So even though 105mm donut sleeves are wider, the new hanger with these wider sleeves, is 1/8" narrower than my Puaida 90mm motors and hanger, and should thus be easier to stuff into the Kayak hatch.

I expected a wider track width, and no chance these motors would fit into kayak hatch, as the 90mm barely do.

I’ve not tried the new 105mm Meepo motors or front wheels, nor put their sleeves on the Puaida motors.
But we did roll nearly 10 miles today, as is.

[Pecos]

Big ass pneumatic builds are a different beast than urethane builds, or hub builds. Like an elephant and and elephant seal. Not to be rated against each other but as different important species in the greater esk8 ecosystem.

Pneumatic builds will always be heavier and ride smoother faster on much more battery. Thane is stealthy and has that classic skate feel while sipping watts comparatively. Thane can fit so many places pneumatics can’t with the right smaller builds.

Both are good, this forum and most eskate groups sleep on good hubs and urethane, but it’s a biased sample - we are the few of the few. I don’t have proof but just my intuition is that most eskate sold and rode and enjoyed are hub or at least thane on small belt drives

My lunch quiver today - my pneumatics stay home until i can give them proper attention and preparation

[SternWake]

I bought that 115$ Vevor Mountainboard board, just for one set of rims, pneumie tires, and a truck hanger that I could cut in half, put on a drill, and anglegrind to size to fit and then JBWeld nto the Kayak cart’s Square hollow axle, and that worked amazingly well, and getting the Kayak upto 22mph with Fiona barking from the rear well was awesome.

That left me with one more truck and a pair of 200x50 clever pneumies.

I only tried that TKP truck and pneumies on the front of my long flexy Cruiser as an experiment. I thought the angled deck would be far too uncomfortable to ride any distance, and I’d switch back.to 80 or 90mm urethane that day.

I was so wrong. It felt amazing, especially when I dialed in the wedge riser and bushings.

i tried the bigger taller wider heavier, more square lawn mower 8x3 turf tires, and it felt even better.

Trancejunkie sent me some Psychotillers and their 6x2 tires rolled nicely, but the board lost some of the great turning fesl, like the deck angle being lower delayed the turn initiation and it felt off. I never dialed their bearing spacer in, so didn’t carve especially hard and try to get used to it. It was noticeably harder to traverse the Crushed shell trail. Less torque with thd Ebay lingyi, and saggy Dmegc 10s2p.

I went back to the 8x3" turfs and now they are bald in the middle, the rims too narrow, rounding the square tread with likely ~2500+ miles on them.

I can’t be the first to try a hybrid Pneumatic and uretbane set up.

The 105mm sleeves will reduce the deck angle compared to the 90mm, and could throw off the feel, as did the smaller pneumies.

Might have to make a new wedge riser 7.5mm thicker.

The Meepo hanger has a slight different geometry in regards to bushing seat height and pivot, in addition to being narrower.

My MR60’s are creeping around Alabama, in no rush to get here.

Might swap 105mm donut sleeves onto Puaida motors, see how much torque and brake I lose.

I think it is possible the Meepo stator is wider, as inner bearing cap is wider.

It would be great if the Meepo hub motors had more.torque on same battery and ESC, But that could be pipe dream zone.

[SternWake]

I did put the 105mm Meepo donut sleeves on the Puaida motors.

I am not digging the loss of torque.

There is a weird noise and vibration starting at 3, peaking at 6mph, gone by 10, from the minor tread.

I went to radar sign and calibrated the mph, then sought out the rougher patches to roll over. Improvement definitely in smoothness, but the brakes are far too weak.

Did a longer speed run at the radar sign and got upto 26mph, towing Fiona with a good tailwind. A bit faster than with 90mm sleeves, but I dont realky care about the top end.

Definitely smoother and quieter over pavers and the rough stretches of road.

Went to the crushed shell trail, and it basically needed more throttle to travel same speeds that I would with 90mm sleeves, but it is smoother over the shells with longer free roll. Accelerating from full stop on the shells was weak sauce.

I don’t’ think the added smoothness, is worth the loss of torque and shitty weak brakes, and no doubt a range loss too, with this Puaida 10s ESC.

If the Meepo motors perform the same with these 105mm sleeves and same esc, I’ll likely just run the 90mm sleeves on them. I’d need a Vesc to up the accelleration to perhaps tolerable, and the brakes to maybe safe, from dangerously weak.

Not unexpected results, but disappointing none the less.

I didn’t try any aggressive carving or tight turns, yet. So far It didn’t feel much different with just the sleeves changed. I can tell the rear ride height is 7.5mm higher, the deck angled upwards less.

[SternWake]

Rolled several more miles on 105mm sleeves, accelerating more sedately thumb just ahead of the speed. I could probably get used to the torque loss, with the ride comfort increase, but swapping sleeves is not really a huge time consuming task, with an electric screwdriver and finger started M4 bolts.

I have to ride the far park with them, where there is grassy, and soft sandy sections and a lumpy nature trail where some ground clearance is needed.

Have to cross a flat bridge to get there and the expansion joints and sidewalk cracks there, are the most annoying of anywhere I regularly roll.

The MR60’s shoukd be here today.

These Meepo motors came with YNT MR30 connectors, not Amass.

[SternWake]

The narrower Meepo hanger does not fit any of my baseplates properly, so I moved the newly MR60’d Meepo motors to the JBWeld modified Puaida hanger, with thermal grease.

The pivot does not sit to full depth in pivot cup.

I weighed all 4 motors independently.

Puaida1…1113.4 grams
Puaida2…1114.0 grams

Meepo1…1084.7 grams
Meepo2…1073.1 grams

127mm Puaida hanger…301.6 grams
114mm Meepo hanger…274.3 grams

I did a short solo test run with new motors, and thought I felt a bit more torque, then hit the brakes, and they are definitely stronger. Stronger than the Puaida motors with 90mm sleeves. The 105mm sleeves actually were just barely breaking traction on max braking, which is a brand new sensation for me.

So…, Yeehaw.!

I loaded Fiona in her chariot and sought out the Radar sign to calibrate my speedo. It was reading fast.

The brakes when Towing Fiona are almost good enough.

There are certain speeds where there feels like these motors have slightly more torque, say 4-18mph, but 18 to 24, felt the same as the Puaida’s, and Meepos might have lesser top speed. Lots of wind.

I did a pretty far roll, riding pretty hard and fast, Damn hot outside, and the motor’s bearing caps were as high as 190f on my return. The Hanger, and ESC heatsink also 10f+ hotter than with Puaida motors and the 105mm sleeves, which was 10f hotter than 90mm sleeves.

I don’t know enough about electric motors as to fathom why the brakes are so much stronger (~30%) with these motors on same ESC and same battery and sleeves, but I’ll happily accept this new reality.

The acceleration torque is only 5-10% better, in the 4-18mph zone.

I was interested in trying the narrower Meepo hanger, but I guess I need to get a Meepo baseplate.

The narrower Meepo hanger would be nice on the Mini build, whenever I get around to working on that again.

Just about time for our evening roll.

[SternWake]

Fiona and I have rolled at least 30 more Miles since my last post, exploring a bit further and wider both North and South, on some roads a bit too uncomfortable on 90mm sleeves, but Ok with the 105mm’s.

Better brakes with the Meepo motors, by 30%, easily.

I Don’t know how or why, and I’m not gonna open the motors up, at this point, just to potentially see the visual internal differences, if any, though I suspect different number of pole pairs due to the speedometer behaving differently.

More torque, but not through the full throttle range. Top speed towing seems 1 or 2 MPH slower with no wind, 1 mph faster with a tailwind, and 3-4 mph slower with a headwind.

The motors and ESC seem hotter on our return, than with the Puaida motors, but range does not seem to be affected, though my supporting data is weak as variables were different.

The Meepo motors make a bit more noise with same sleeves.

Last evening, I charged from the usual 41v to 42v, then went about 9.5 miles, and returned to 33.34v, which I think is pretty good for a 2P pack moving close to 300 Lbs total. I’m 190, Fiona in her loaded chariot are 85 or so, my esk8 itself likely 20, 25. need to weigh it.

In some other news, I am blown away by the generosity of Nelvick at @DIY500AMP.COM

I do not ask for it and certainly do not deserve it, but he has sponsored me this AwithZ spot welder, and not with the 10kW lower power unit, but the 14.6kW unit which can easily weld 0.3mm pure Nickel, and also, when nearly maxxed out weld 0.2copper, 0.12mm Nickel plated steel sandwich, without using the copper welding flux.

AWithZ P20B Spot Welder 14.6 kW

Testing LIVE! the AWithZ P20B 14.6kW Spot Welder and pushing it to the limits!

I only have plans to build a 10s1p and a 3s1p with Eve 40PL, with cells I bought from his competitor, and which he knows, but this changes things.

I’ve found building my 3 small esk8 batteries to be both frustrating and enjoyable, ultimately rewarding.

My purple spot welder was so inconsistent, and was maxed out welding when 0.1mm copper, 0.1mm nickel plated steel sandwich.

I’m excited to try this new spot welder, and am blown away at the gift, and My 10s1P Eve 40PL pack will be getting 0.15mm copper with perhaps 0.15mm pure nickel, since I have that in stock and a welder capable of it.

I ask anybody who reads these TLDR posts and follows along to consider your next cell purchase and related items, from Nelvick’s store.

In my opinion, he is honest and honorable, and can be a great contributor to DIY esk8 and this Forum.

He is also open to suggestion as to what he can do to improve his builds, and his store, with no attitude or ego.

His acquiring and donating of cells like the EVE 50PL, Ampace JP40, JP30, Eve 58E to Mooch, benefits us all, so I think it would be great if this forum can help him.