Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

Transferred enclosure and hanger to the midsize kicktail quickly, painlessly.

Weird to ride shortwheelbase again.

Kayak laughs at crushed shell trail on the 4.10-3.5-4 Dico pneumatics.

Shoulder not too bad paddling kayak, but no 7 mile outings anytime soon.

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Spent too long with Dremel and rotary wood rasps and barrel sanders yesterday during noise and dust making hours.
Didn’t work on building the new BAK battery.

The leading edge wood of Fiona’s Chariot is something different from the rest. Heavy. Treated, vertical grain.

It was the only piece big enough that had at the time, as the pallet I recycled had seen better days.

Since chariot needed to accrue a lot of miles, while top rail joinery was incomplete, this base wood needed be pretty strong, but now with corners and top rails screwed and epoxied together, the base frame is overkill.

So reducing its mass at this stage, is desirable, and hand planes and sanders can only reach so much.

I really liked how the leading edge looked when I carved out the tubercles, and have done similar to 2 of the other sides so far.

I used to ride high aspect ratio surfboard fins with leading edge tubercles, and found they has very kind ‘soft stall’ properties.
Equate to power sliding/drifting round tight corners, instead of abruptly spinning out. It was a very unique feel underfoot and allowed me to place the tail of surfboard in places where it could not hold before, and draw a different line.
It was also amazingly resistant to turbulence, like when landing a floater at a high angle in order to maintain speed and maKe the section and the wave.

There might be smoother airflow into and through the chariot with these present.

There is less total frontal area, so there is somewhat reduced wind resistance.
The side tubercles are on the diagonal hopefully to draw some air towards Fiona’s belly and enhanced release after.

They can give some interior traction too, without being uncomfortable for FionaGirl.

Have not weighed it recently. Last check was 26 lbs iirc.

–

The 10s2p dmegc battery voltage sag is getting worse. The lingyi beeps 1 to 4 times after 10 seconds or so, below a certain voltage, and full throttling has it start beeping at me within 1.5 miles, flashing one bar on remote, but then jumps back up to 4 bars on the remote when I let off the throttle and coast.
I can tell torque is down too.

I think Ill be adding a second XT90 panel mount to enclosure direct to ESC.
Use this battery as a top mounted range extender, either in parallel with BAK, with both at 42v initially, or pull loopkey, and then attach this battery.

Too many projects, too much wasted time.

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She does not need the recovery suit anymore, but I think she likes wearing it.
She makes more of a fuss when I remove it, than when putting it on.

Keeps that big ole belly from jiggling too much.

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Reacquainted myself with my cheap purple spot welder, my Zee 3s 5.2ah weld lipo, and 0.1mm copper ,0.1mm nickel plated steel sandwich.

I was thinking the Lipo had degraded in storage at first, but was again able to achieve solid welds as low as 65ms once the weld lipo was above 12.4v, and over 85f. 11.7v and 75f and it was not enough.

I tried again with 0.15copper and 0.1 nickle plated steel, upto 90ms pulse but no dice. Some welds stuck and left itty bitty dots.of copper on the cell, and holes in copper strip, but just came off without tools, just fingers

I have a red spot welder that in the past proved less capable than the purple.

I put an XT90s on some 8 awg with crimped ring terminals, for use on my large lead acid AGM, and a 5 ms pulse via the red was not enough for 0.15 copper sammich.
10ms was almost.
15ms and a mosfet shot out flames.

Second cheap welder which blew up with the AGM as weld battery.

Not gonna try it with the purple. I guess 0.1 copper will have to do.

Ive seen others use a 12v lead acid weld battery with red spot welder before. My deep cycle 6v GC-2 AGM’s turn 8 years old next month. They are rated at 900 marine cranking amps, not cold cranking amps. I guess they are still well outside the cbheapo welder’s goldilocks zone.

Have not tested welding on a BAK45D yet. Have 2 extra.

Well, crap.
Wednesday night i felt tired way earlier than normal and went to bed early. My left arm then, in bed, felt heavy, weak, uncomfortable. Poor sleep.

Thursday morning BP136 over 96 Lowered to more normal ranges over the day though I felt like shit. No appetite.

This AM super lightheaded getting out of bed.
No appetite
BP as low as 76 over 52.

Dads BP machine indicated AFIB a few times, and a general downward trend in systolic and diastolic.

So went to emergency room.

100 over 58.

53 years old.

Shit balls.

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Had all the enzymes in blood which indicated I had a heart attack.

The found 3 blockages, installed one stent, via wrist, not groin.
2 more stents in 2-3 weeks outpatient

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Glad you survived brother! :pray: Please let me know if you need anything

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I hate drama.
Between me dislocating my shoulder, Fiona’s double mastectomy, subsequent infection, second surgery, and Now my Heart attack, and an alzheimmered mother who is amazingly difficult to deal and driving me insane, one might think all the BS would taper off.

Nope.

I’m typing this from emergency room again. I was told upon my discharge on Saturday, to come back here, now, so same cardiologist could install two more stents in my heart sometime today, and bypass the preapproval no insurance bs.

But i might have come even without those instructions. I got an arrythmia going on, heart fluttering in my chest.

Last night Fiona was licking her incision. Alarmed, I touched it and felt heat, and a suture, poking out.of some puss, a suture which was supposed to have been removed 2 weeks ago Friday.

Heart started beating funny then and there.

My sister dropped me off at emergency room at 4:30am and took Fiona to a 24 hour emergency vet at 5am, where they found several sutures which had been clipped by my former vet’s office, but not extracted.

The vets who did Fionas surgery, did a bladder related surgery on my cousin’s dog more recently. It was diabetic. they didnt check. It was doing poorly post surgery. she took it in. They said its normal, she’s fine.
24 hours later she is in critical condition at a different animal hospital.
24 hours later she was deemed unlikely to survive, and euthanized.

My sister’s just texting me that all is well and fiona is fine now,
Could be true.
I hope it is.

Should send my emergency room bill for heart attack to the incompetent animal hospital.

As far as modifying prebuilt junk goes, Im thinking it is as capable as i need and no more modifications are happening.

I discharged my battery to storage voltage and have no idea when i will ride again.

I am not disengaging from esk8.or the forum. I like this place.

Im just gonna stop updating this thread, treating it as my personal TLDR journal, and I Dont wanna pollute this place with my Drama any further.

Thank you all for the help and advice and parts. Ive learned a lot, and the ability to.roll with Fiona has kept me sane, I think, and I couldn’t have done it without this place

Feel free to DM/PM.

@xsynatic

please close

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This is your thread, you don’t have to post esk8 related stuff if you don’t feel like it.

Turn this into your diary, take a break from it or start a new one specifically to talk about what is going on. It’s all up to you.

See threads like:

https://forum.esk8.news/t/van-life-after-esk8/

https://forum.esk8.news/t/sk8tedads-cave-of-bs-no-build-here/

https://forum.esk8.news/t/mental-health-please-take-care-of-it/

If you still want me to close it, feel free to ping me again.

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Ok, I guess nobody has to follow this thread.

It’s just incongruous.my sharing so much here, and being so incommunicative otherwise.

I’ve now got one stent in my right coronary artery, one in left decending artery, and one in circumflex, so basically all three arteries which feed the heart muscle oxygen were clogged and compromised. The RCA became completely blocked and caused the myocardial infarction(heart attack) the other two were 3/4 blocked.

I wish i listened to my instincts, and went to emergency room sooner. The heart muscle being deprived of oxygen for ~36 hours did it no favors. The pain in my left arm and chest were so minimal it just did not seem possible i was having a heart attack.

Its been a long time since I seriously abused tobacco, and alcohol, my good chlosterol is right in the middle, bad, at upper end. My blood pressure used to be much higher ten years ago, when i was heavier.

I wonder how much of the plaque in my arteries is microplastics.

Anyway, While not a posterboy for cardiovascular health, I hardly had all the flashing yellow earmarks for being a walking heart attack.

I had a cardioologist friend read the cath report and echocardiogram and said he does not think my heart is too damaged and i should make close to a complete recovery. I am getting periods of arrhythmia sometimes now.

Gotta take baby aspirin, BPmeds and some meds to.prevent the stents from clogging with platelets, and some cholesterol meds.

There is some dizzyness on standing i am told should lessen as i get used to the BP meds, and I get to carry Sublingual Nitroglycerin tablets everywhere I go for the rest of my life. Tiny little bottle.

The second trip to cath lab is blurry. They doped me up far more than the first time, some meds deliberately designed to impair memory. Some fentanyl too, and theyd given me some atavan as well, as I waz stresssing Fiona.

Turns out her interior dissovable stitches are what is poking out. Her now former vet is apparetly incompentent. There is one.problem area I got to clean several times a day, and i get to find new vet.

We drove to the CST and walked it, slowly. It’s hot and hurts her paw pads. We need to be able to roll it again soon. I was told to baby my right arm where the catheters were fished through the arteries, so no chariot towing. I just don’t
like.using my left arm to do so. Not as much oontrol.
I do plan on Rolling again ASAP, when my arm feels like it was not roto rootered.

My BAK45D’s are wrPped in 2p bundles. They are the A04. Mooch had previously tested the A02, but has some A04’s i hope he gets to test soon, and i hooe theydo as well.

I have ordered another purple spot welder in case I blow mine up.

I’d like to have larger hub motors, but who knows if that will ever happen.

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Got the 0.1mm copper, 0.1 nickel plated steel sandwich cut out, rounded, deburred, and tacked together with 9ms pulses.

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Said F it, set vBooster to 42.02v and dialed it 150watts output, and let er rip for an hour or so.

We dopplerified the hood for the first time since, and rolled most of the crushed shell trail, and the people who were here, vacated when we arrived, and we still have it to ourselves.

Weather is beautiful with the breeze off the water, but too hot when walking the breezeless trail through mangroves, so being able to roll a majority of it is much appreciated.

The Teak flagpole/chariot handle is nice, as I can put the round ball in my Right hip, in front for accel, behind for brake, and take 80% the workload from arm. Grabbing far side of wide handle my arms weight can keep the ball in the hip even easier.

Holding it in hand away from body I can do some light carving and such and reduce the chariot ‘swing’ effect, and make it easier for Fiona to balance.

I can move the handle back and forth a few times and she will lay down, but she prefers to sit, so only sedate high amplitude low frequency carves.

The crushed shell trail still has some new uncrushed soft spots that I need to enter with speed to make it across. The little hub motors struggle to maintain momentum.

Good enough for now. I can tell whether the battery is near full charge or at 75% by the torque available over these soft spots. Likely 35v or less due to sag at max throttle.

Seems likely that 10s2p BAK45D should be holding 4 more volts, for a lot longer, compared to my high mileage 10s2p DMEGC-26r.

Mooch recently tested the BAK45D A04, which I have 22 of, against the A02 he tested in December. It did well. Can’t share details.

The 45d data sheet does not say anything about a no weld zone, but I am going to avoid about a 6.5mm diameter in center based on his advice, having torn down a cell.

He tested a preproduction ‘EVE 50PL’ at 100 amps too.
Can’t share that data either, but, we want these available, ASAP.

6 Likes

Fiona and I rolled to the Kayak Launch twice, and the far park Nd far neigh orhood once today, totalling about 12 miles.

I took the 7s2p 150 watt charger/vbooster to the far park. Thankfully I can get my pinky fingernail on the current trimpot and dial it upto 150 watts. Gotta start keeping a jeweler’s screwdriver on the chariot. Cruised the far hood with a nearly full battery, and charged again walking through the park on the way back.

I’m not feeling any major physical hindrance anymore, if I take the BP medication with dinner, not first thing in the AM. BP still seems too low at 107/67, but I feel way better there, than at 96/64, and two IPAs with lunch yesterday has that at 88/62 and feeling weak and far drunker than two IPAs ever got me before. Not feeling any arrhythmia anymore, but not sure its gone either.

Ambient temps are climbing. The ride and charge and ride on an already warm battery, which runs too warm even when cooler, means I should slow down and perhaps unstrap the enclosure to get some airflow inside when bench charging.

One time I quickly disassembled a hot hub motor, and the stator was significantly cooler than the bearing caps, but I Can get the latter to 196f full throttling the 2.5 miles roundtrip including the whole crushed shell trail there and back.

Slowing down is hard, as a 20mph breeze is much nicer than 14, when 90f outside. Not really humid yet either, still being dry season.

Need to work on the BAK45D 10s2p, but not when my mom is around, as the more I need to concentrate, the more she distracts me, non stop, at the worst possible time, and I can’t hide my annoyance, which makes her behave even worse. Death spiral where i want to just start yelling ‘shut up!’ Skylar White style.

Testing the inboard hub motors on 7s, on OG foxboxes isn’t happening anytime soon. They were my back up plan, should my existing hub motors fail. But they hated my single drive 7s esc, and I tabled it.

The soft spots on the CST make me yearn for a bigger contact patch.

The speed limit in this housing development is 20mph, and I can do 20mph barely, towing Fiona. But some people seem to have no issues tailgating me. I’ll pull way over and slow down, or go to opposite side of road, so they can pass, only to find them slowing down, sticking their phone out the window to video Fiona in her chariot, unaware, or simply not caring that they are putting us in more danger.

Fucking hate people

So I’d like to have some more speed on tap, and be able to maintain more speed over the soft spots on the CST.

Since my pathetic bank account is going to be an itty bitty tiny fraction of the massive and overwhelmingly absurd medical bills soon to arrive, which I can never pay, I said F it and emptied it on the Damn Meepo 105mm ‘540 watt’ hub motors.

My 90mm Puaida sleeves will fit these motors, if the brakes are just scary weak on my ESC. They are not too bad on the 83 mm hub motors, but were disappointingly weak on the 90 mm Puaida motors.

The Puaida ESC is still working fine, no disconnects with no power button, but occassionally push to start does not work, and I need to cycle the Loop key.

Back when I had the diagonal mini going, I used to parallel a 7s1p to the 7s2p, through the 20 awg charge port. 12mph max became more reliable for longer.
For reasons which I dont understand, the brakes also became noticeably stronger too.

Hoping the Low resistance BAK45d’s and their 13.2amp max charge rate somehow strengthens the Puaida esc’s weak ass brakes, with bigger hub motors.

Doubt it, but maybe.

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Damn I wish you had space to run the focbox, I’m afraid that esc will give out eventually. Maybe that’s irrational of me to say

With the ebay lingyi, I was surprised how hot the heatsink was getting to the touch. It only failed from being submerged.
Am now surprised how cool the heatsink stays with the Puaida esc, and very happy no more disconnects are suffered. Seems they were somehow related to having a power button installed.

Esc stays Cooler than the battery. Even when i unstrap the enclosure and probe for heat with IR temp gun, this esc is just not getting all that hot with these motors, and the heatsink getting tons of airflow.

114f is as hot as Ive recorded. Before I added the finned heataink to the copper, with the enclosure on my midsize and with 90mm hub motors, it was getting hot AF.

I like the telemetry on the remote

Ignorance is still bliss regarding Vesc. Trying and failing to get that vx1 and the fsesc6.6 mini going, twice, really soured me. Not eager to expend all the effort required to fail again

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Determined 83ms pulses were achieving solid welds on BAK45D can with cheap purple spot welder and Zee 3s 5.2ah battery charged above 12.4v.

0.1mm copper, 0.1 nickel plated steel sandwich.

Doing 5 pairs of welds on every anode.

9th pairof welds on 5th p group, crackle spark from welder and light goes out.

Crap.

No obvious transistor failure. They are still open.

PCB copper, on both sides of circuit board, where input 8 gauge ring terminal ends, burnt and open circuit

Apply 12v to other side of break and lights come on.

Bridged burnt traces with 1.4mm x 10mm copper flat bar, soldered drilled and bolted.

She works again.

Have backup purple welder PCB.
Gonna burlify it.

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145% tarriff means I opted to cancel my formerly 189$ Meepo 105mm hub motor order. I could purchase a whole mini kicktail esk8 in US stock for that $$. very much regret not ordering well before this trade war BS was foisted upon us.

According to Lingyi odometer, Fiona and I have rolled 500 miles since Feb 19, and there was some significant downtime of no rolling in between, due to her, and then my health issues.

No esc remote disconnects. Esc deep finned heatsink still staying much cooler than expected.

My dmegc-26r 10s2p is sagging hard and running hot, yet when recharging from 3.33volts per cell, is requiring 4.46ah of its total 5.2 capacity to reach full so it still has a good portion of its original capacity remaining.

I’ve been uncinching velcro straps, lifting enclosure and running fans over battery after a run, and then while bench charging to cool battery. Been taking the 7s2p and Vbooster to far park, charging 10s at upto 150 watts, but with high ambient temps , a hot battery is all too possible, but we gotta roll.

Am mid BAK45D 10s2p build.
Series connections stage.
Dual 14awg. dual 12s or a single 10awg just look too fat/thick, and I am not running huge power anyway.

With 7s battery held at 25.3v via booster, TS101 able to draw 80watts heating to 400C. Very noticeable turbo iron, compared to using a 5s2p drill battery at 20.4v.

I sacrificed some new Thermal pad, adhered to thick finned heatsink, clamp to battery while soldering series connections, trying to keep some soldering heat out of the cells. Heatsink does get warm when i remove it quick and feel, but still feeling soldering heat from cells. Soldering all series connections before welding would be preferable of course, but I doubt i could.pull it off clean with copper nickel sandwich and limited experience.

Got a few medical bills. One is basically a dollar per second, for 21 hours, and does not include all procedures or visits or departments within, or the second visit.

Blood from stone.

Speaking of blood…thinners and the anti-coagulation meds had a tiny cut on my little toe fill my sandal with blood. I didnt even notice the cut, but when my sandal got slippery and noisy I was like WTF?

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Powered across some powdered style sugar sand yesterday, and a few miles later felt and heard bearing type noise increase.

Not sure at what mileage I last had hub motors apart for cleaning and bearing lube, but Lingyi odometer claims 1010 miles now. When I put the 83mm hub motors back on, and changed wheel size from 90mm, the odometer rolled back 50 miles or so, so ~1060 miles.on this Puaida 10s 24amp ESC seems reasonable.

No more remote disconnects, since I reassembled with no power button and just use roll to start. Rarely, I have to cycle the loopkey for RTS to work.

When I last reassembled these hub motors, I used a generous amount of thermal grease between square axleshaft and hanger receptacle and flat steel plate.
The hanger now gets much warmer.

I disassembled some hot motors quickly after a run just now. Ambient 85f, near noon, full sun.
Hunting for hottest spots with IR temp gun…

Hanger was 135f(before thermal grease was 112f max)
Exterior of urethane sleeve was 130f
Inner bearing cap 157f
Stator 132f
magnets 151f
Outer bearing cap 146f.

The stator did feel cooler than bearing caps, but i suspect emissivity issues reading stator temp correctly, and didn’t get K-type thermocouple ready in time.

One motor was spotless inside, one had some sand.

Both outer bearings seemed to have liquified their grease and allowed it to sling out and what was left was greyish, not clear like last time. They got more of same unideal grease added.

I have to remove motors from hanger receptacle to access inner bearings, and didn’t want to, so didnt.

Not sure how much longer these hub motors and their sleeves will last. They were 83mm new, now down to below 78mm and starting to chunk.

Wish I ordered those 105mm Meepo 540 watt motors before tarriff bullshit kicked in.

The 10s2p BAK45D is nearing completion. Gotta run balance leads, and add series connection between groups 5 and 6.

I have some clear heatshrink which will fit over one row of 5s2p. Am thinking armadillo style overlapping 5 pieces on each side to allow some flex.

I am curious how much more torque the BAK will provide, since my current pack sags 5.5 volts on the first full throttle run from full charge.

Also wonder if the motors will run slightly cooler if I ride the same style, and distance, because of higher voltage, and perhaps lesser throttle required to maintain desired speed. I can really cook these motors full throttling 2.5miles towing the chariot. Saw 202f on outer bearing cap doing so.o

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Yesterday, somebody decided she had gone long enough without swimming.

Today we paddled the kayak about 4 miles.

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Black hot glue sticks are new to me.

Would it stick to TESA tape?
Or should I lay another strip of fishpaper atop?

Experiment.

With fishpaper removable backing pressing down on the still hot glue, adhesion is twice that of atop fishpaper, but non hot compressed, no difference in lif off force between fishpaper and TESA tape.

Had some 10s extra balance connectors, to help organize and space balance wires.

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