Goofy kind and sweet,
with those fluffy pom pom feet.
Sweet cuddly kind and cute
with a furry butt that goes ‘root toot toot’
She is so sweet, cute, cuddly, and kind.
Every day that goes by
I am glad Fiona is mine.
Goofy kind and sweet,
with those fluffy pom pom feet.
Sweet cuddly kind and cute
with a furry butt that goes ‘root toot toot’
She is so sweet, cute, cuddly, and kind.
Every day that goes by
I am glad Fiona is mine.
im right there with you. when baby passed away last night, a part of me died literally… dm anytime
Before Fiona was mine, there were some rabbits, in cages on the property on which she lived.
So that might explain why, on our multiple leash free after dark perimeter checks, when we see rabbits, 8 times out of 10, she does not go apeshit crazy, like she would for a squirrel, or cormorant.
But why do the rabbits show so little fear of her?
She’ll trot to within 2 meters of them, and they will simply maintain that distance from her. I can egg her on to go after them, half heartedly, but they seem to have an unspoken understanding.
She goes in for surgery next Wednesday.
That mammary tumor has to come out.
Hoping it was never going to flare up again was not a good strategy.
I’m thinking about not sending it out to determine if it malignant or not.
I dont want to subject her to more surgeries after this one, or chemo. She turns 12 in September, and the official book on this breed says 10-12 as a male working dog in Poland, is the expected lifespan.
If she were spayed in her youth, she might not have the tumor now, and then I might expect 14 years as a well loved pet, but she is intact, and while not too late for uturus removal, in theory, i think that ship sailed.
I just wanna enjoy every good day with her, and she loves rolling in the chariot, and I love towing her to the park, and she is semi famous in the area, and well loved. People who I have never spoken with call to her name as we roll past.
I used my wired hand held voltmeter with audible alarm today.
I set it to 36.5v, and took off with a full 41.96v 10s2p battery.
By myself, first max acceleration, it started beeping when I got to 16mph.
Let off throttle, and voltage rose to 41.2v in a second hit braKe and it is 4!.8v by the time I’ve nearly stopped
So, lots of sag at full throttle. The dmegc-26 18650 cells are only rated at 2600mah and 15 amps CDR.
Holy sag batman!
Working those cells hard!!
Fingers crossed for a speedy recovery for Fiona
This Dmegc-26e 10s2p pack has to have at least 2k miles on it now.
It gets pretty dang warm in use as well, especially on a hot day and third charge cycle of the day.
When i swapped in a 10s1p P42a, and felt at least 15% more torque, all other factors being equal, I was pretty stunned. I lost some range with 4200mah vs 5200, but there was more torque upto the very end.
I bought the Dmegc cells for 2$ each on black friday 2023. It was my first battery build, and I didn’t want to ruin expensive cells with inexperience.
0.1mm copper, 0.1 nickel steel sandwich, 10awg to xt90s.
I can fit 10s2p of 21700 in this enclosure, Just can’t justify that expenditure right now, even with the measured excessive sag, and known heating issues with this pack.
I assume 20 Tabless cells will have far less sag and thus more torque and far less heating. The BAK 45d at 4.75$ each, is so tempting, but so is Eve 40pl at 5.25$.
I’d love to use 0.15mm copper and 0.1 nickel steel on next battery build, but welder does not have enough power. There is a copper to copper welding flux from Glitter that seems it should allow my desires, but a heftier weld battery might do it too.
Fiona and I are gonna roll to the pavillion now…gotta make every day with her count. I wish her mammary tumor was already excised, and we could try kayaking again.
Not sure my shoulder would comply, but in terms of what Fiona loves the most, barking at cormorants from her Mahogany Kayak bow platform, tops the list.
3 rolling sessions today.
Late morning, afternoon and evening. 42v to sub 34v each.
Nice weather.
Very appreciative just to roll the hood with Fiona again.
Gave up testing Inboard M1hub motors via ‘Aladdin’ 7s single drive ESC.
I had been close to reviving the mini with just one hub motor, but testing the one ok behaving motor, under load, had me stop.
I can use OG focboxes on 7s, correct?
Cant afford to make a new battery right now, but I have an OK 7s2p battery, 104wh, 2000 mah cells, unknown CDR.
It will fit inside the new enclosure.
I have an unknown version of the mini remote.
I only ‘need’ 16mph
If the inboard Hub motor sensors are non operational, can I use HFI with OG focboxes? I’ve no issues with pushing to start or hip flicking to get going.
Just want a viable backup powertrain.
I tuned some of my Surfboard sanding gear today, in order to make ungodly amounts of dust, quickly, outside.
The 12.5 amp Milwaukee polisher with 8" power pad was giving my shoulders a workout, the day before I dislocated the right one 3.5 months ago
Fiona’s Chariot can be shaped, and smoothened, and lightened further, without compromising strength.
It can be made purdy, and stronger.
Been carrying a DC boost /step up Converter, and a 4ah 5s 72wH Ridgid drill battery and a wattmeter in Fiona’s Chariot, on the last couple rides.
Not that it is required.
The crushed shell trail can chew a lot of my limited battery capacity.
Getting to the end of CStrail at full throttle, and then charging at 120 watts/~3 amps while we bark at cormorants pelicans, ospreys, and turkey buzzards, allows us to then cruise back a lot faster, and be able to make it up the ‘hill’ at the entrance. Then have 6 more miles of range, and not have to baby the throttle.
The ‘400’ watt’ booster gets pretty dang hot at 120watts output.
It is this one:
This booster is odd, as one turns the voltage potentiometer CCW to raise voltage, but CW to raise amperage, and it is not linear. Dialing in 42.00v unloaded, requires a very fine touch, amp dialing is linear though.
I much prefer this smaller booster.
It has a third potentiometer, that controls the amperage at which the red LED light turns green. Voltage and amperage adjustments are much nicer and intuitive, than the larger red booster, and it seems to stay cooler boosting 12v nominal to 42v, at 2 amps output, than the larger red one, which has no led at all to indicate it is powered up.
I smoked one of the red ones at about 250 watts output, boosting from a 12v battery without enough airflow.
Since my charge port can handle 5 amps, and 5.2amps is a 1C charge rate, and the BMS is good for 10amps charge, the hot booster is the limiting factor.
I have 2 charge ports, but the second one is still unwired.
I have 2 boosters.
I have two 4.0 ah Ridgid drill batteries, and 2 2.0ah.
I don’t know if it is safe to parallel these boosters.
I don’t know if I need to charge at the parks, at 6 amps, but 2 amps has proved a bit too slow.
Also this battery gets too damn warm as is.
So all of this becomes unnecessary with 10s2p of tabless cells. Far less voltage sag, far more capacity, far less heating.
But I have no funds for 20 tabless cells at the moment, or anytime soon.
I do have a third style of Voltage booster. 6amp max input. It can be easily attached to a heatsink.
I smoked one of these being an assuming idiot. Both the voltage, and the amperage potentiometers are turned CCW to increase.
The plan with this model is/was to use my 7s2p prebuilt enclosure, and attach booster to the ESC’s ventilated heatsink, and make an enclosure lid, and use the Antispark switch that TranceJunkie sent in the esk8 goodie box and have a 104 wh portable charger. Perhaps even charge while riding.
I was working on this before shoulder separation, but not since.
I have second style of this white booster rated at 10 amps input, that I have tested boosting 7s to 10s, but not at 10 amps input.
Again, both potentiometers are CCW to increase volts or amps.
I would rather cycle the remaining life from the 7s2p battery, than abuse my 5s2p Ridgid batteries, and the higher the input voltage, the higher the output wattage can be.
After a 2.5 month Hiatus of no esk8 and my subsequent return to stand and roll joy, I am loathe to not have at least one functioning Esk8, and that means I need a backup.
I fear the limited lifespan of my 83mm hub motors, and their 172f/77.8C temperature that I am measuring on their exterior after a harder run, and their seemingly irreplaceable sleeves.
I will have No funds anytime soon for anything Esk8 related, so I got to use what I already have.
I have the Inboard M1 hub motors. They did not want to work properly on a 7s single drive esc. I dont wanna risk my 10s ESC with them until I know they are OK.
I have 4 OG focboxes, and a new enclosure designed with huge heatsink to mount two of them, and house only a 10s1p 21700 battery, but which can fit the 7s2p as well.
So that is the plan. Use what I got to make a backup powertrain to Velcro cinch strap to the long cruiser, or to the Mini, or even midsize.
Hopefully, before it gets to be 94f everyday, I’ll have a new 10s2p of Bak45d, Eve40pl, or Ampace JP40’s in the one enclosure and 10s1p in the other.
If the M1 motors work on the OG foxboxes, then they should also work on my Puaida/lingyi esc too.
2 OG foxboxes are not gonna fit my 10s2p enclosure’s heatsink without major modifications.
Fiona does not seem to mind the inflatable collar, so far. The one time i tried to use the cone of shame with her she went nutz with frustration
oh poor babe. remember you can trade and hunt in the freebee section as well!
Cold font coming.
Strong southerly winds.
NW horizon dark grey.
Pansies hiding inside.
Time to roll to our spot.
Somebody got a haircut.
Ridgid drill battery charging esk8 at 120 watts.
Earlier today, when I said time to go…
Bringing the portable charging set up, and departing our various destinations at full charge, is a bit regrettable, when I decide to not bring it.
Having the full torque available when leaving those destinations is very noticeable, even though I am trying to stay outta the throttle, and ride safer and stress my towing shoulder less.
Been storing Ridgid drill battery, booster, wattmeter and wiring in a fanny pack which is attached to the front of chariot basket.
So when we stop, I rest chariot level on the back.of the esk8, and connect Fiona’s leash, then command her to jump out.
I pick up esk8, put it in chariot and turn off remote, and attach it to velcro cinch strap.
Unzip fanny pack, extract booster and wattmeter. Attach barrel plug to charge port, and see battery voltage. Attach booster input to drill battery output, which stays in fanny pack, then connect booster(set to 42.0v, and ~3.1 amps max), to wattmeter, and watch 0.00 amps shoot to 3, and watts go from 0 to 120-128.
I use Anderson powerpoles connectors which seat and unseat much easier than XT90 or 60, but are sexless, and allow a self defeating idiot to connect booster backwards, which can fry it or pop the charge port fuse.
Fiona is usually at end of retractable leash and waiting, and then helps me pull the chariot.
The process must be reversed when leaving the park, and takes about the same amount of time, about 30 to 40 seconds, I estimate.
It would be nice to reduce this time.
It would be good to not deep cycle a 4.0ah Ridgid drill battery 2 or 3 times a day.
The 7s2p battery could be used instead, and the higher the voltage booster input, the more efficient it is, and the higher amp output it can deliver, but I have not fully vetted the booster which i plan to attach to the ESC heatsink inside the 7s2p enclosure.
That 7s2p pack might be used as a backup powertrain instead.
Fiona gets her Mammary ectomy tomorrow morning.
She seems to like wearing the recovery suit.
I assume it will be a while before we can roll together again after today, so we are gonna put in some miles today.