Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

Back in analog days, I used to try and push with left foot, to save wear and tear of right knee and bunyon, but had no flow and no speed.

Surfing longboards I’d switchfoot sometimes, but it likely looked as awkward as it felt. Never tried SF on a shortboard.

I was able to push and pull and maneuver the walk behind lawn mower the other day without issue.
It is comparable in weight to a Fiona loaded chariot and far mire awkward.

My apprehension is falling, putting my right hand down, and out pops shoulder again.

Not sure what physical threshold to pass in order to repopulate my enclosure and ride again.

Such as 5 real pushups. I can only plank with locked elbows and do ‘shoulder ups’
Serratus anterior work to help keep humeral head centration.

Basically have to reteach all muscles around shoulder to learn the new highly compromised normal.

My subscalpularis Rotator cuff muscle, is weak AF.

Pressing palm into belly, or with hand behind back and pushing it away from lower back, there’s nothing there.

Lots of pops clicks and clunks and crunchy noises with any overhead motions.

The lacrosee ball on the wall around shoulder, can redefine knotted muscle and trigger intense pain. The pops when crossing the lump, reverberate through the house.

I hope I can get to 85% without surgery.

I’d say I’m at no more than 30% ATM in general, and internal rotation specific movements, less than 5%.

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Slid the basket back in the now wood glued, epoxied and screwed together plywood and Cedar Chariot base, and returned the axle with the 3.50/4.10-4 hand truck tires.

Fiona was pumped, and jumped in.

But no functioning esk8 to Dopplerify the hood with our barking at 20mph.

So,
I jogged over the grass and sand into and around the back yard with her in tow and over some obstacles, which would flex and test nearly everything.

No significant shoulder pain.
Chariot was definitely sturdier.
Fiona hid her disappointment well, that I could not jog faster, for longer.

I weighed the empty chariot: 29.5 lbs/13.4 KG.

Fiona is about 54lbs, 24.5kg.
I am 190lb, 86.4kg dry.

So without esk8, 274ish lbs and 124.5kg.

I think I can sand the chariot down to about 26lbs, maybe less, but sealing and lashing the teak handle to cedar stiles and fork, with fiberglass roving will return some of it.

The teak Crossbar handle can lose a lot of weight. Gonna make a bunch of finger grooves on back and underside.

I want to add some red and amber 12v strip lights, and make it so it can balance on the basket, handle high for storage, and perhaps some kickstands front and rear to keep it level when she wants to just hang out inside with it level.

She seems content enough just chilling out in the shade inside of it, even without her backrest in place.

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Tomorrow, it has been 10 weeks since Shoulder dislocation.

Today, I sat at my soldering station for the first time since.

Forgot that I had started making this low profile loopkey.

.

I’d dremelled a slot in the soldering cups, for 8 AWG, and was getting used to my new TS101 smart soldering iron, then

I have been using the TS101 on a 5s2p Ridgid drill battery, and using a 5.5x2.1 barrel plug, not the USB-C which requires a certain USB supply to hit the 65 watt maximum.

The barrel plug was from something else, on stiff, underlength wire, which was a hindrance to mobility and precision, and probably dropping too much voltage too.

I had also bought an aftermarket larger ts101 soldering tip, which today started losing contact and giving me a “NO TIP” message, where the original tip worked fine, and I had a few cursing fits because of both these issues.

The too short wiring from battery to iron, was also putting too much stress on the receptacle in the iron, in addition to preventing agility.

I have new 5.5 x 2.5 plugs and receptacles stocked, but no 5.5x 2.1 plugs.

I cut a 5.5 x 2.1 barrell plug off of a 7s charger, razored the molding off, and desoldered the 22 awg, then soldered a longer length of flexible Silicone jacketed 16awg wire to it, and covered the new joints with clear heatshrink and attached an 30 amp Anderson Powerpole connector.

My wattmeter was then reading 58watts heating towards 400C, with Ridgid battery at 19.6v. Iirc, I think 54watts was previous best at 20.3v, with old cord.

My aftermarket ts101 tip, on closer inspection had the round contacts slightly recessed , and the portion which recesses within the iron, is slightly bent. I was able to get it to work again, but am disappointed with this tip.

It is obviously lower quality than the tip the TS101 shipped with, and was poorly packaged when shipped from we know where. No padding, just loose in a plastic bag.

I’ve made a new loopkey Harness, with 10 awg. Gonna mount the panel mount xt90 on inside of enclosure this time, to recess the loopkey itself more, and be able to completely remove it from enclosure, without desoldering, or cutting it.

I intend to use the ‘350’ watt 83mm hub motors at first, as we need to roll again, soon.
I feel I have been breaking my promise to Fiona,. She’s got lumps and bumps everywhere, and ould be riddled with Cancer, …who knows how long she’s got. The cyst on her mammary is growing again, but thankfully does not seem to bother her.

The sleeves on these hub motors are down to 81.5mm and not too chunked, yet. Gotta mr60 them and swap to 6 pin JST housings.

I have the ‘375’ watt 80mm M1 inboard hub motors, and replacement sleeves, and mating 9pin connector pigtails which need MR60’s and 6pin JSTs added. But am unsure how long I want them to be, yet, and the othdr hubs will get us rolling with less effort.

Have two other holes in enclosure, one for 5.5x2.5 charge port, one for power switch, So 2 5.5x2.5’s going in, although one might just be a dummy, though it could be in parallel My 10s2p baTtery has xt90, Anderson Powerpole, and xt 30.

Last June when I tried to get the FS6.6mini going and failed, I had soldered the VX-1 receiver to the ESC. I now intend to remote mount the receiver well away from ESC, and use only PPM wires, and no MT60 to mr30 adapters this time.

Some Vesc anxiety kicking back in. I hope can make the FSESC6.6 work this time.

The shoulder is still weak AF, but less painful. Much range of movement has returned, but any subscapularis specific movements, are concerning, and there are huge clunks and popping noises coming from it.

I can’t place hand, palm out, at lower back, and then lift hand away from lower back.

Pressing palm into belly and pushing belly inward, next to nothing. No strength.

Pressing hand down on opposite shoulder elbow straight out, and pressing down, same.
There has been little to no improvement in strength doing these specific tests/exercises.

This could be an indication of a full width full thickness tear of subscalpularis, which would require surgery to ever heal properly. A full tear also can allow long biceps tendon to come out of Bicepital groove, and I have a fair amount of biceps pain, especially at night when trying to sleep, which is a Bad sign.

Also some tingling and numbness returns doing some motions, and some muscles just twitch spasmatically doing isometrics.

I’ll keep on trying to strengthen it of course.

Basically have to reteach brain how to control arm, and prevent impingement.
Have to consistently remind myself to activate Serratus anterior, to.suck lower portion of shoulder blade flat against rib cage, through all arm movements, to keep humeral head centrated in glenoid socket, since those rotator cuff muscles can’t do their job anymore.

Esk8ing again at this point, is totally irresponsible.
I’ll just have to make sure to be extra careful, and only roll when we need to roll to the closer park, or to the watering hole Pavillion.
2.5 miles a day instead of 10+.

My former goals of a respectable long range all pneumatic esk8 are done.
Getting old, and injured, sucks.

5 Likes

Ran 10awg at 90 degrees from loopkey to run along bottom of enclosure.

Junky 83mm hub motor’s combo phase and sensor wire got heatshrunk to extend insulation, and mr60’d. One of the JST sensor wire crimps, lost its locking tab.

Made a 90 degree 5.5 x 2.5 charge port with 16 awg. Could add a second port to enclosure, where power switch used to live, but my charger maxes out at about 6 anyway, so just need to seal that hole with something, for now.

2C charge rate would be 10.4 amps on 10s2p Dmegc battery, dumb Daly BMS good for 10.

Hoping to roll again soon.

I’d like to build a 10s2p of at least P45b perhaps JP40 or 40PL, for temperature reasons, and get the Meepo 540watt 105mm donut wheeled hub motors, but have no funds for either at the moment.

If fsesc6.6 mini refuses to cooperate, i have OG focboxes, but securing them to my heatsink could be a major curse fest.

Need to sort vx1 receiver wiring, and then should be able to run detection.

Hopefully this time, it reads resistance and inductance consistently and the motors don’t sound like they are filled with rocks above half throttle.

TS 101 smart soldering iron impressed me today, with a fully charged drill battery.

6 Likes

Back to dreaming of smashing the FSesc6.6 mini with a sledgehammer, but it would likely hurt my shoulder to do so, so I am dreaming of other ways to make it so I never try it again.

Largely the same results as before, except this time there is no contact between the sides of the vesc via canbus. This one has a CAN key on off slider switch, which does nothing.

Tried many manual detections with wildly different L and R back to back. Played with different values, same behavior

Motor sounds amazingly horrible when it does spin up.

In the remote wizard the vx1 signal seems to bounce 0.3 + and - with no input, and any pressure on the remotely located receiver circuit board has this jump to 1.5 +/-.

Fark, I just wanna roll, am sick of wasting time and effort and sanity.

Fitting the OG focboxes in this enclosure would be hours of labor, and the damn vx1 receiver could be faulty anyway.

Kind of ready to just get another Lingyi and Eff this Vesc thing.

I have the damn Puaida ESC which was randomly losing connectivity with the remote.

Wish i could just throw money at the problem.
Fark

1 Like

SKP Solo.

No money for a quality Vesc.
it all goes G.D. M.fucking hospital.

Tried a new short USB micro data cable.
Still wont recognize other side of vesc via canbus
Same issues detecting…
Duty cycle jumps around wildly.
Current jumps from positive to negative at stready throttle

Gonna mr60 the Puaida ESC, and go back to 5 plug jsts.
Maybe not. That damn thing once lost connection at full throttle.

shaddup sledgehammer, I hear you calling.

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i know you dont like the focbox but it could really help maybe despite the issues with space

trade those trampa motors for a vesc

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This enclosure’s heatsink is just not gonna accept two OG focboxes without a lot of labor, and serious compromise.

wasted too much time already, on a maybe.

Now it looks like the VX-1 receiver is fucked too.

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post those motors then for trade? i think there is a mini v2 in that box also sir :grinning:

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Good 'ol mini remote has always been a cheap and solid backup for me.

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+1 mini remote good

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The mini remote’s battery might be toast, self discharge/overdischarge wise.
I’ve not opened it up.

Previous to shoulder destruction,

I had planned on using the 2 OG FB’s TJ sent me, in the newer enclosure, for the mini kicktail.
It has a huge heatsink that I designed for them.
It had a 10s1p p42a battery, but that was inside my 10s2p enclosure when it got submerged and killed.

My older 10s2p is way too big for that smaller enclosure, and I can’t afford to build a new 10s1p right now, though I’d love to.

I have not cut the FB’s 14 awg phase leads to length, or added mr60’s, as that ideal length for that smaller enclosure, was yet to be determined, and I kind of hope, that I can, in the future, finish that mini build.

I have 2 more OG FB’s Arza sent me. They need phase wires soldered to their pcb’s and MR60s. One of then smells a bit suspect. Toasty.

Say The mini remote battery is ok,.or I swap in a newer one salvaged from a Lingyi remote.
Bench test wise, split PPM the receiver, add 14 awg and mr60’s to FB’s, attach to desktop and vesc tool. What do I do regarding vesc4 vs vesc 6?

Seems like I could find myself right back in frustrated sledgehammer mode, and wishing I had just bought another damn Lingyi.

And say I bench test the focboxes, and all goes well.
In order to mount these onto older enclosure’s heatsink, I have to cut up and drill some aluminum flat plate, drill and tap it, to secure focboxes to it, then attach this plate to existing heatsinks studs, and then maybe have to relocate loopkey harness, and add another gasket for clearance, height wise, most likely.

A 100$ lingyi/puaida esc woukd need to be xt90’d, MR60’d, then easily slide.over heatsink studs, plug and play and have telemetry on remote.

My older lingyi puaida esc, which suffered disconnects, just needs MR60s and swap back 5 pin JSTs for plug and play rolling.

The ebay lingi cockroach esc suffered disconnects too, but only after a big bump had one motor shut down. If i kept going on one motor it would disconnect. If I braked to a stop, then both motors would fire back up, and it never would disconnect.
Perhaps the Puaida esc disconnects are related somehow. Iffy sensor connector?

Maybe the random disconnects would happen only with my other 90mm motors, which are now rusted and in the recycling bin.

I just wanna be able to tow Fiona to the watering hole and back. 2.5 miles/4km round trip, and that is if the cheesy 83mm hub motors can handle the crushed shell trail like the 90mm hubs did.

I don’t need to go as fast or as far as I did before the accident.

I just wanna roll.
Upgrade later.

2 Likes

Check out lol

Virtually no difference if running low RPM at only 10s

I was thinking bootloader wise, firmware wise, vesctool wise, not the performance.

My~2k mile 10s2p battery is ‘30’ amps max, and I suspect Mooch would rate the individual cells at 12 or less after testing them, when new, and they have a 60c max operating temp, no doubt exceeded often in my previous usage.

But it had more range than 10s1p of p42a, and almost no self discharge in the last 2 months.

My 83mm hub motors came on sub 300$ 7s junk, but their sleeves have some life left in them, and worked fine when I took them out of service.

I have 80mm Inboard m1 hub motors Arza sent me. They have the julet 9 pin connector.
So untested.
Not sure of their function.
I know my 83mm hubs or OK.

I’m 0 for 100 regarding Vesctool.
Zero confidence, and little desire to try again.

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with the backwards compatibility in new versions of vesctool you shouldn’t have an issue, you should be able to get the firmware on the repo

I was that way, but all you need is the willingness to learn and you’ll get it eventually. For me, I had to watch a ton of youtube videos about how our motors work on a basic physics level but I’m weird like that. Benjamin Vedder has a bunch of videos where he explains stuff really well. Many people on here can help too if you post screenshots. I’ve had a few bouts of uploading a dozen screenshots on here so people can find my issues.

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My frustration is combo not knowing if there is a hardware issue or multiple hardware issues, in addition to Vesctool skill issues.

If I were 100% sure there are hardware issues, then sledgehammer time would have come and gone. I had suspicions that last time my mt60 to mr30 adapters were the issue. Same issues today with only mr60’s and solid solder joints.
And now the canbus seems to be fried, and Motor R and L are wildly different in back to back manual detections, on one motor.

applying the new readings and firing up the motor, it always sounded horrible.

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Well, the sledgehammer came out, and destroyed, one of those new anti-theft alarms that come on new Kitchen Faucets, when the cord is cut. I went through self checkout.
I have a receipt, I swear!.

The shoulder was not ready.
My aim was way off.
It hurt to swing it.

I MR60’d the very short phase wires on Puaida /Lingyi ESC, and returned it to heatsink. Changed JST -ph housings back to 5 from 6.

Tested it, the motors fired up nice and quiet.

Ziptied all the wires to the mini roving bridges, so nothing can chafe or rattle.

The power switch I have for this ESC, which came with it, had its 4 frayed, broken stranding leads removed, shortened and resoldered, and then individually heatshrunk, then Gorilla clear grip’d as additional strain relief.

With Push to start, and Auto off, and the Loopkey, I found I dont even need the power switch, and covered the hole with blue masking tape while the GG cures.

Charged to 41v.

Once buttoned up,
it started raining.

I got a short very timid roll in just before dark on damp roads

Freeroll is not nearly as good as the larger Puaida Hub motors, and there is some bearing noise. I replaced one outer bearing last year, but should do the other 3.

Anyway
, Tomorrow we roll!

It would be great if the remote does not self disconnect.

I honestly might just spend the ~100$ for a newer model Puaida/Lingyi esc, and the medical bills can wait.

Would rather buy 20 or 30 Ampace JP40’s or EVE 40PL’s.

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The old Mini Remotes are good. My experience with new ones is that they are junk. “Why?” is an unresolved question.

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