My roving bridge mini leash loop madness has returned.
I cut up a small strips from a Home depot 5 gallon bucket in various widths to locate and form the space under the roving bridges.
Epoxy wont bond strongly to this plastic but it tries, so being smooth, polished and waxed is not just for porn videos, and drilled holes where I will need to pull
and extract, and the mini zip ties and binder clips were used to hold those in place.
I used the wet scissor method, on single presaturated roving strands.
I’d saturated them in my long PVC halves, finger squeegee them taught and bubble free, and then hung them, then painted epoxy over the sanded cleaned areas where the roving bridge needs to bond.
The hung roving will form nearly a perfect cylinder, and cuttiing off lengths and then laying them in place is much easier.
The roving will not conform to bridge mold immediately, gotta wait for the epoxy to.get thicker and stickier on those vertical surfaces, then bend it down to enclosure.
I use the plastic over it when it becomes too sticky to touch and remove whatever touched it without lifting the roving.
I Had everything in enclosure when i marked exactly where I would want a roving bridge to secure a wire completsky immobile with a small ziptie,and then some nearby areas also got bridges too, as it is better to have and not use, than need and not have.
One trick I use is making my own mini foam brushes, using a fine pore sponge, and a mini stick, or skewer, and a drop of superglue, for precision application tool, and minimal waste.
One other trick with fiberglass tow/woven roving strands/fine rope, is to remove its memory, and tighten all the stranding, before saturating with resin.
If one cuts a width of Tow, and tightly pinches both ends with thumb and forefinger, and Pulls them apart, one can feel them get slightly longer.
If one bends this length over a wide smooth PVC pipe, it really helps ‘stretch’ and de- memory the fiberglass, or carbon fiber roving/tow.
It also greatly speeds the saturation of the fibers when resin is added, and it will be more transparent, and lighter, and stronger, and easier to work with
Fiberglass cloth, and tow, when the stranding it is taught, is far more rigid, and stronger, and lighter than when loose and simply saturated. Fiberglass matt is not as worried, but is also rarely used when max strength for mininum weight is a factor.
Today was the coolest day in 8 months. Babysitting the slowly thickening epoxy got annoying, so I returned p42a pack to enclosure, and we barked up the hood at higher than average speeds.
I could have returned either 10s battery, but the smaller one yields 20% more torque and is easier to insert under velcro straps.
Left with a 41.76v, 27.2c battery,
Returned with a 35.56v, 40.2c battery.
Enclosure e terior away from battery on return was 23.2C, ambient 23C.
Enclosure exterior directly atop battery was 32.8c
To me this is evidence that the foam padding in contact with the battery, is conducting heat from battery to enclosure, and that there is likely significant room for better thermal transfer, to help keep battery somewhat cooler.
Being able to remove and flip this enlosure in 10 seconds after a ride, has been enlightening.
I wish i had realized sooner that i was basicLly cooking my battery, cycling it three times a day in 32C+ ambients, since May.
.
The’30amp’ DmEGC 10s2p was my first battery, and on paper it was adequate cor a 24 amp ESC, but I am always Towing.
I am not sure how hot it was getting when it was newer, but it can easily get too hot, especially on second or third run of the day.
So ease of new enclosure removal in.order to ventilate enclosure, and cool the hot battery before recharging, is now a factor.
I hope a new 10s2p will stay much cooler, but this 10s1p42a pack will be vesc’d and be able to far exceed the supposed 24 amps.of the Lingyi cockroach ebay esc which is able to cook my DMEGC 2P pack, and this P42a 1P pack as well.
