Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

My roving bridge mini leash loop madness has returned.

I cut up a small strips from a Home depot 5 gallon bucket in various widths to locate and form the space under the roving bridges.

Epoxy wont bond strongly to this plastic but it tries, so being smooth, polished and waxed is not just for porn videos, and drilled holes where I will need to pull
and extract, and the mini zip ties and binder clips were used to hold those in place.

I used the wet scissor method, on single presaturated roving strands.

I’d saturated them in my long PVC halves, finger squeegee them taught and bubble free, and then hung them, then painted epoxy over the sanded cleaned areas where the roving bridge needs to bond.

The hung roving will form nearly a perfect cylinder, and cuttiing off lengths and then laying them in place is much easier.
The roving will not conform to bridge mold immediately, gotta wait for the epoxy to.get thicker and stickier on those vertical surfaces, then bend it down to enclosure.

I use the plastic over it when it becomes too sticky to touch and remove whatever touched it without lifting the roving.

I Had everything in enclosure when i marked exactly where I would want a roving bridge to secure a wire completsky immobile with a small ziptie,and then some nearby areas also got bridges too, as it is better to have and not use, than need and not have.

One trick I use is making my own mini foam brushes, using a fine pore sponge, and a mini stick, or skewer, and a drop of superglue, for precision application tool, and minimal waste.

One other trick with fiberglass tow/woven roving strands/fine rope, is to remove its memory, and tighten all the stranding, before saturating with resin.
If one cuts a width of Tow, and tightly pinches both ends with thumb and forefinger, and Pulls them apart, one can feel them get slightly longer.
If one bends this length over a wide smooth PVC pipe, it really helps ‘stretch’ and de- memory the fiberglass, or carbon fiber roving/tow.

It also greatly speeds the saturation of the fibers when resin is added, and it will be more transparent, and lighter, and stronger, and easier to work with

Fiberglass cloth, and tow, when the stranding it is taught, is far more rigid, and stronger, and lighter than when loose and simply saturated. Fiberglass matt is not as worried, but is also rarely used when max strength for mininum weight is a factor.

Today was the coolest day in 8 months. Babysitting the slowly thickening epoxy got annoying, so I returned p42a pack to enclosure, and we barked up the hood at higher than average speeds.

I could have returned either 10s battery, but the smaller one yields 20% more torque and is easier to insert under velcro straps.

Left with a 41.76v, 27.2c battery,
Returned with a 35.56v, 40.2c battery.
Enclosure e terior away from battery on return was 23.2C, ambient 23C.
Enclosure exterior directly atop battery was 32.8c

To me this is evidence that the foam padding in contact with the battery, is conducting heat from battery to enclosure, and that there is likely significant room for better thermal transfer, to help keep battery somewhat cooler.

Being able to remove and flip this enlosure in 10 seconds after a ride, has been enlightening.
I wish i had realized sooner that i was basicLly cooking my battery, cycling it three times a day in 32C+ ambients, since May.
.

The’30amp’ DmEGC 10s2p was my first battery, and on paper it was adequate cor a 24 amp ESC, but I am always Towing.

I am not sure how hot it was getting when it was newer, but it can easily get too hot, especially on second or third run of the day.

So ease of new enclosure removal in.order to ventilate enclosure, and cool the hot battery before recharging, is now a factor.

I hope a new 10s2p will stay much cooler, but this 10s1p42a pack will be vesc’d and be able to far exceed the supposed 24 amps.of the Lingyi cockroach ebay esc which is able to cook my DMEGC 2P pack, and this P42a 1P pack as well.

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Homer’s bucket strips were easy to extract, thankfully.

I’d used red sharpie on bucket to indicate where i wanted the bridge to reside, and unfortunately it transferred to the epoxy. No consequence to cured strength as far as I can tell.

When zip-tying wires in previous enclosure, with as many roving bridges as i installed, the ideal bridge location was usually a few mm this way or that, or id want to stuff more than one ziptie, or velcro cinch strap or bith under it

So this time I tried to precisely locate the bridges, and have more room under them, and then have multiple more options in the immediate vicinity, so nothing can vibrate, chafe or rattle.

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New 90mm hub motor sleeve…228.3 grams.

Toeside 2200ish mile sleeve …193.23grams
Heelside 2200ish mile sleeve …194.93grams

The seams in asphalt parallel to direction of travel really grab the new sleeves, compared to old, and the ass end gets all warbly through the transition.
Me no like. Wondering if rounding that sharp inside edge is why.

Going over paver/sidewall cracks, slight improvement in ride quality.

Loss of torque with 90mm vs ~87.5mm is noticeable, but it is also much cooler today.

I swear there is now worn bearing type noise and feel that was not there before, or the new sleeves are just slightly quieter allowing me to hear the bearings I could not hear before.

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On the way to the farther park, we have to cross 2 bridges, and there is one expansion joint on the narrow separated sidewalk, about 5 inches/13.5wide and 2"/50mm deep, with sharp edges on a slight angle, that is always annoying to cross.

I unweight back foot over it, and old sleeves would have ass end jump hard to the side. New hub sleeves stayed straight and was a bit softer today.

After the bridges I hang a right and charge some grass, slight downhill, losing speed the whole time at full throttle, but can make it to trail, where I stop to let Fiona do her thing.

The new sleeves seemed to float a bit higher and allow me to carry more speed than usual, but the new 10s1p p42a pack’s extra punch is also a factor.

I can now tell the 1p pack has less range, even when i go a bit slower, but cooler weather also plays a part in that.

My IR gun continues to measure significantly hjgher temoerature on enclosure directly over the battery, compared to farther away from battery in enclosure.
Today away from battery was 21.7c, and atop the baTtery was 33.2c, and when I dropped and flipped enclosure, was able to find 44.2c on the battery heatshrink, confirmed with Ktype thermocouple.

My battery must have been cooking thus summer’s high ambient temps, when i was doing three fullcharge cycles per day, and not opening enclosure to force ventilate when charging.

Even opened with a fan blowing over exposed battery and under enclosure, the battery stays pretty warm for a while.
The Dmegc 10s2p flat pack still has good capacity, but Ive not returned it since trying the p42 10s1p, as it has less torque

The future 10s2p pack should stay much cooler, and much less sag, but I cant stop thinking about how much heat the enclosure itself is wicking from the battery, and how that can be enhanced.

The 10s1p P42a pack in its new enclosure could similarly benefit. Im gonna lay some exterior leash loops on it tomorrow, and might add some roving ribs to further stiffen the flat underside, which will also add surface area and perhaps enhance battery cooling too.

Fiona’s chariot’s cedar fork, got tapered and rounded today with a power then hand plane
It Lost enough weight to screw up its formerly perfect balance.

Kind of hard to tell in this photo, but the taper is slight.

I’m gonna sand the shit out of the dougfir basket and burn darken it, disassemble it and reassemble it with epoxy and screws on the joints.
The basket and chariot’s fork and base are two separate parts, I can separate them with 4 screws.

I think I’m gonna strap the dmegc pack to the deck and plug it into charge port , making sure both packs start at 42v, and bark up the far hood at higher speeds for farther tomorrow.

Kind.of surprised at how much cooler the esc and motors seem to run with the p42a pack, and with the coolest temperatures that Ive seen since March.

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Looking forward to getting this thing going.

Decided the new enclosure’s heatsink should have a little more perimeter protection, so that a ‘temporary’ velcro cinch strap over it, does not touch it.

Have M4 inserts and SS panhead screws and matching nitrile washers, but will do that after I get it dialed in.

So no exterior roving bridges, yet.

I made a long roving rope combining 8 strands, which is about 3/8" diameter round when saturated and hung.
I laid it atop the flange to thicken it, and widen it a smidge too.

Pretty overkill.
Flange will be thick.

A few exterior roving diagonals exist where battery will reside

Daily driver behaving very well. Crushed shell trail was run this evening quickly with P42a pack and new hub sleeves.
Pavillion still sticky and stinky and water brown and ugly.
Accelerating out, there was throttle to spare, which was a first.

Rolling that last mile home sedately, keeps battery under 46c, in 20c ambient. Hubs and esc staying remarkably cool too.

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I contacted the seller of…asking about when I can expect my order to be shipped, and got a prompt ‘this week’ reply.

I’ve been consistently measuring temperatures of everything , quickly after a roll, trying to eliminate and account for the inconvenient uncontrollable variables. The velcro cinch straps make it so I can remove and flip my enclosure is 5 seconds, then lift the full size gasket and aim the IR gun at previously established ‘hottest’ areas of the pack. The KType thermocouples are always within 1.5c when I insert them between compressed foam padding and battery heatshrink, so just use the IR temp gun.

If I quickly jam a probe under foam, and use the ir gun, then return gasket reinsulating enclosure, the heat from within the cells makes it to the surface and will go up by as much as 4.5c in a few minutes.

When I remove gaskets and let it breathe with fan blowing over battery and below enclosure, it is surprising how long it takes for battery to cool to within 5c of ambient, and that is not charging it.

This summer, I was charging immediately at upto 0.65c after returning, with the hot running dmegc 10s2p pack, and doing three cycles a day in far higher ambient temperatures.
It must really have been cooking in there, and I regret not testing battery temperature earlier, and modifying my routine accordingly.

When flipping the enclosure, and lifting off the gasket immediately after a roll, the radiated heat is a bit surprising… Considering my comparative low power requirements, with a maybe 24 amp ESC in Flat FloridA, I will be interested to see how much cooler the new cells run, and wonder about you guys with high power setups in hilly areas.

Yesterday I set up my shade and saw horse tables.in backyard, busted out my surfboard sander, and made huge amounts of dougfir and cedar and teak dust, smoothing and lightening the chariot, and ran out of light before I was done.

But I reassembled the chariot loaded all the tools.into it to return them to garage, and go bark up the hood. I’d noticed some screws Id removed to sand it to fit new chariot poles were not returned, weakening it, but it is so overbuilt there was no issue. When I get all those areas screwed, and epoxied it should be next level sturdy. I think i am going to forgo the burn darkening of the Doug Fir. Too much work, and its already taking too long.

One.consistent datapoint, is that the motors and esc heatsink, with the P42a 1p pack, are staying cooler than the same distance travelled on the DMEGC 2p pack.

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I did some light sanding of the new enclosure.

The Flange is ridiculously thick.

It is even thicker next to the baseplates, where I pushed the rope up and around the cutout.

I’m gonna add more roving to the low spots, when I lay the Roving bridges.

The 14 and 16mm m4 panheads arrived, well, the 16’s arrived, the 14’s have incorrect heads.

We’ll see if Meehua steps up or says go pound sand.n

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I laid the exterior roving bridges last evening, and this AM, my intentions were to strap new enclosure with 10s2p battery inside, to deck tooside, parallel through charge port on bottomside enclosurd, and go for the longest fastest cruise yet in the coolest weather so far this season.

Didnt happen, mostly as I didnt like the wire management, wrapping around the rail from top to bottom, and barrel plug sticking out waiting to be ripped out.

Also wondered if I would blow the 5 amp charge port fuse.

I have a 90 degree DIY 5.5x2.5 barrell plug, but my board is 5.5x2.1.

I cursed, said F it and tabled the long cruise for a regular length cruise.

After our cruise where range was down, and torque seemed down with cooler temps, I sanded it a bit more, and decided to see how it inteferes with foot placement when riding, strapped to the deck.

Answer…not a factor.

Turtle top.

I have not cleaned the old enclosure, pretty much ever.
It is certainly a different shade of Volan green, than the new enclosure.

While new enclosure is intended for the Mini, I will be likely be strapping it to the long cruiser initially, while I make the attempt to get the OG Focboxes powering the M1 hub motors.

It will take a while to get used to such a narrow stance again.

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dislocated shoulder trying to save it

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By far the most pain I’ve ever felt…

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ohh fuck bro. at least your ok ish?
puppy ok?

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fiona is fine.

was putting leash on her, when yeeted throttle.
It bounced off concyrete
aimed at water.

I dove for it. Got one hand on it
Splash

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I feel for you man. Sending ride vibes.

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Ooof. That is unfortunate. Hope your shoulder mends well mate

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I aimed board and chariot away from water before stopping on grass, off the concrete, then held remote power button, but apparently for not long enough.

Was leaning down to put leash on Fiona, and somehow Yeeted the throttle.

Board started throwing grass sky high, hit concrete edge, did a 70 degree left turn and accelerated towards the water.

I dove for it, got my left hand on it and it started pulling me, as right hand hit concrete, and right shoulder popped from its socket.
I lost my precarious grip, and the board splashed.

It stared sinking, bubbles escaping enclosure by phase wires, and stopped sinking once tail hit the oyster beds.

Then smokey bubbles started escaping.

I started to try and wake up from this nightmare, but no such luck.

Only then I realized something was wrong with my shoulder.

I pulled off a bungee cord from chariot to make a sling.

I used Fiona’s retractible leash to hook a front tire, and pulled the board out of the water.
Board was hissing, had that smell that reminded me of those times NIMH or Nicad batteries started leaking.

I pulled the loopkey and the hissing stopped.

I undid the velcro straps holding encloure to deck, then undid the velcro straps holding battery to the enclosure, and removed xt90, battery and scooted away.

Called my dad who coudn’t understand simple directions as to where I was.

I removed the rear hanger, loaded deck and battery free enclosure into the chariot, and left smoke free but warm battery by the water’s edge, and walked to street and described again where I was, and he eventually found me.

I had a T tool, and pulled a chariot wheel, so it would fit in sedan trunk, handle sticking out.

Went home, unloaded deck enclosure and chariot.
Put Fiona inside then went to an Urgent care.

They said goto emergency room.

Pain kept increasing on drive.
Kept getting worse once sitting in Emergency room, and finding a position which hurt slightly less was tortuous.

Sat for nearly 2 hours before they got me in a room, and some dilaudid in me, which seemed to do nothing, then gave me another dose and some lidocaine in the joint itself.

Xrays came back, nothing broken.

Doctor slowly pulled my elbow down, as muscles started twitching and pain seemed as bad as ever, and i eventually felt it go back in the socket.

None of that abrupt jerking motions one sees on TV.

Dont even want to think about how to pay.

No Health insurance, have not even been to a doctor in 15 years.

At least it was just the Lingyi, but RIP my 10s1p p42a and loyal Puaida hub motors.

Ill have to go back and dispose of battery properly.
Hopefully nobody just throws it in the bay.

I wanna demount the baseplates and pneumatics and bearings, and remove all salt residue, but one armed, will not be much fun.

The dilaudid was surprisingly not nearly as strong as I expected. I never tried heroin but expected the warm bliss to take over, but no such luck.

Fvck, i hope i didn’t tear any tendons or ligaments.

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Be careful if they prescribe you opioids for pain relief. Getting hooked on them is no fun, speedy recovery mate :crossed_fingers:

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Thankfully, I never liked Opoids. They always made me feel weak and quick to tire. As pain relief, not very effective.

I managed to disassemble board and enclosure.

I just stood shoulder to shoulder with my Alzheimerred mom over my workbench, as we cleaned and oiled almost all the hardware. She loves to be helpful, and actually was, though I had to constantly repeat instructions.

I hosed out then scrubbed enclosure, and removed its heatsink, and scrubbed that.

All the wiring for loopkey, power button and charge port was cut and removed.

The mr60 connectors looked a bit burnt.

No signs of attempted battery thermal runaway.

I Had barley paper covering lots of areas around the esc and it turned to spongy mush.

Between Main + & - at ESC was a bright green conglomeration of goo, and the exposed copper heatsink right below these wires, looks to have lost some material.

I pulled the relatively new sleeves off the hub motors. The black oxide m4 hardware had already turned white.

Lots of pain. I need to figure out how to move as to not aggravate it.

I always sleep on that shoulder, so sleeping is gonna suck.

I cant believe i yeeted my board into the water and dislocated my shoulder trying to save it, and failed.

I might have paddled in to my last wave, and paddled my last Kayak.

Shitballs.

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Sorry for your loss, thankfully it wasn’t worse. Hope you heal fast. Battery might be ok with how much you sealed and overbuilt it. Hoping it was just a short from the saltwater and is recoverable. That it didn’t just keep cooking might be a good sign. If not i know you’ll get something back crushing again soon.

Good luck

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Battery had spewed some foamy nasty smelling stuff from under its heatshrink, not unlike burnt oyster/abalone shells.

I abandoned it at the scene,
I was not gonna out it in dad’s trunk, and if it went into thermal runaway where I left it, it would do no damage.

I meant to go retrieve it today with a metal bucket and sand, but simple movements yield intense pain.

I’ve been trying to not move my right arm at all. Can barely button my jeans. Have to lean right arm against wall, and finger strength is way down.

I’ve got enough parts to get something rolling again, which is good, as the medical bills will be crushing.

Depends on how healing, goes but I might be done rolling.
Pretty depressed atm.

No surfing, no kayaking, no skating, no joy.

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Don’t just pay the medical bills, they are absolutely negotiable (<-edit). I had a nasty er trip when i butterflied my thumb open i negotiated down to 10% of the original bill they sent.

Ya that pack sounds toast, i guess i glossed over the details in your post. Rest up

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