Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

We are almost ready to roll over the bridges to the park, and other neighborhood with its grid of smooth asphalt.

The expansion joints.on the bridge’s narrow sidewalk really send my urethane hubs sideways. The low psi pneumatics laugh.

I am wondering how much ride improvement there will be with the new hub sleeves i have in a box.

The Pavillion at watering hole is still a stinky sticky mess, and boat traffic on weekends stokes my misanthropic tendencies.

I hear the red tide is no longer being held offshore by east winds, but is now butted up against coast, ready to make people cough, and kill fish.

My paltry 187 watt hours of 10s2p is becoming more of a limiting factor.

I’ve been pussy thumbing the throttle in the far neighborhood, and yesterday was afraid id be walking the last half mile, but limped back full throttle and barely 10mph with lingyi beeping relenessly at me.

I could strap new 10s1p to deck, and hook to charge port. I did this with 7s2p diagonal mini and a tiny 7s1p flatpack at same initial voltage, without issue.

I can also just bring my 18v Ridgid drill batteries and my CCCV v booster, and just charge at 140 watts while we walk the park. Not sure i’d want to ride and charge with this setup.

I’d prefer to use my 7s2p battery and enclosure with a CCCV booster attached to heatsink, for ride and charge. My existing CCCV booster will not easily attach to heatsink, and a design which will, just cleared customs and is still a few days out.

Fiona is staring at me, saying stop typing, lets go roll, dummy.
Such a wise creature.

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Delayed outing as i wanted to secure and protect new portable charger.

Added a spare tire. to chariot too.

Rolled hammer throttle mode to the park.
39.43v on arrival.

Started charging at 148.5 watts, now tapered to 72 watts.
Ridgid battery holding 17.89v under 3.79 amp load.
Have another Ridgid battery with me.

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Ok, that was pretty cool.

Esk8 battery was down to accepting only 40 watts from portable charger, when I disconnected charger in park, packed everything away, commanded Fiona into her chariot, and hit the far Neighborhood.

Full throttling around that smooth asphalt, far faster and going much further than anytime before.

When we returned to the park, I set up charger on same Ridgid battery, and esk8 battery was 36.68v and booster was 150 watts input = 141.2 watts output.

I have a loud powerful adjustable speed 60mm fan to blow over CCCV booster, and walking through the park, I heard it shut off, and swapped in my Other Ridgid battery and was back at nearly 142 watts charging.

It has USB C charger attached to it too.

Ridgid battery packs have the low voltage disconnect internal to battery pack. Makita batteries, Dewalt and some others have the low voltage protection in the tool, not the battery, so keep this in mind should anyone think about a similar portable battery to battery charger.
It is possible to overdischarge such packs when using them outside their specific tool brand.

Ridgid 18v batteries often go on sale from Home depot for very reasonable prices

2 4.0 ah batteries and charger for 99$ happens a few times a year, but they sell out quick.

Of the 18v Makita, Dewalt, Ryobi and Ridgid packs I own, the Ridgid is my favorite.

If one properly registers the battery within 90 days of purchase, they have a ‘lifetime service agreement’ and one an get new equivalent batteries at no charge, though i am not sure of the process and number of hoops involved.

The Ridgid charger I have, has a 21vdc wall wart 40 watt power supply, and separate charge cradle. It and wall wart are pretty compact, and I often use wart to power things, like fans, directly.

At park’s edge I walked to some shade, packed up charger, loaded Fiona, and it was so nice to have nearly full torque available, and be able to go fast, and not worry about making it home.

So It was hammer down all the way home, and we arrived at speed and measured 34.76v, which roughly translates into 2 more miles at a sedate pace, but torque is way down below this voltage.

I removed 3 velcro cinch straps, dropped the enclosure, and hunted for the highest temperature I could find on exposed Battery exterior with IR temp gun, which was 132.5f. A bit hotter than desired, but it had been either discharging or charging the entire time.

My lingyi’s heatsink didnt feel all that hot and my hub motors were 135.5max, which is kinda normal.

Improvements would be reducing the time it takes to set up and take down charger, and having 2 Ridgid packs in Parallel to share the load of the CCCV booster.

My booster is only capable of 150 watts input, before it starts making a high pitched noise. It would be nice to charge at 1C, 5.2 amps, instead of the 3.3ish this booster can output.

More watt hours in the enclosure would certainly be better than having to carry a battery to battery charger, but I am happy to have this option.

It was great to explore farther, and at far higher speeds than previously possible. No range anxiety.

The second Ridgid battery settled to the 18.63v before I slapped it on charger at home, So it had a fair amount of its 72 watt hours left to charge the esk8 battery had I needed it to.

The two 4.0ah Ridgid batteries and booster and fan all fit in chariot basket inside a fanny pack, and its balance was hardly affected, and the extra weight not a factor. I have 2 2.0 ah 36wh 18v Ridgid batteries too.

My 2 7s junk batteries have ~150 wh
combined, to power the CCCV booster, and higher input voltage means the booster wastes less wattage, and i dont have to beat up my Ridgid batteries.

I assume their bms’ are wired for discharge. I’ll have to check.
I do have audible low voltage alarms if they are not

Kayaking seems to be off limits for a while longer, but at least we can roll much farther away from home base now.

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After converting 132.5F, to Celsius(55.83), then looking at the spec sheet on the DMEGC cells(60c max operating temperature), I have a problem.

My IR temp gun measuring the exterior of my pack post ride, has to be missing the higher actual cell temperatures.

Today’s venture was the hardest I’ve pushed the battery. Towing Fiona in her chariot at fastest speeds on lowest PSI tires for the longest distance yet.

The short breaks while we walked through park, I was charging at about 4 amps max, and 5.2 amps is a 1C charge rate.

Seems my DMEGC pack would be far happier if it had 20more cells sharing the load, instead of the 20 extra cells powering a 4 amp charger when we stop.

The CCCV booster is also wasting about 9 watts converting 18v nominal to 42vdc at 4 amps.

Today was not really all that hot either.

I got the 20 Dmegc 2600mah 15 amp cells for 2$ each about a year ago.
I didn’t want to buy better cells for my first battery, but now of course regret it.

The pack is otherwise behaving well but as it ages and its resistance increases, and Chariot gets heavier, the pack is going to get even hotter.

If I could not quickly and easily remove and flip my enclosure and measure battery temperature, I’d still be blissfully ignorant how hot the battery is actually getting.

I was more worried about esc and hub motors overheating, but those were not as hot as i have gotten them in the past, when doing a lot of hard braking.

I should get the 104wh 7s2p powering the cccv booster at 42v output, into charge port attached to deck while underway instead.

Or have the two Ridgid batteries in series, in parallel with dmegc pack through charge port.

One issue with this is they sometimes come off Ridgid charger at 20.6, sometimes at 20.7v. I’d have to make sure 187.5wh Dmegc 10s2p pack is only charged to 41.12v before paralleling them or their bms might do funny things.

Regen is also a potential issue.

Wish I could justify buying 20 p45b at this point,
I wonder how much cooler a 10s2p pack of those would be under the same conditions. Their ~324 wh capacity would exceed the ~ 270 I used today.

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Recessed,
Tucked,
Parallel flange angled,
Loopkey receptacle.

It’s not really much more work,
take me 5 minutes extra max,
will come out perfect,
no worries

Let the tool throwing begin!

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Been a while since I pulled this loopkey from my daily driver.

It is well recessed in the new enclosure, a bit more than I intended, but so be it.

Fiona and I went to Far park and neighborhood earlier, without the portable charging equipment.

We went slower, and not as far, but full throttled the last mile home.
Dropped enclosure quickly.
Found 55c highest reading on battery.

Basically the same as yesterday when I was charging while park walking, and rolling considerably faster, for further.

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I had to push the last 150 meters home, taking 39.55v and a 30.3C battery depleted heated to A time rebounded 32.23v and 38.2C

Pushing with my weight over the tall low psi turfs sucked so bad.
Put deck foot over lower urethane hub motors to push, much better.
Still sucked.

Could really feel drag of the pneumatics which are all now so low on pressure. I can dig my thumb deep into all of them. Gotta check their psi.

Pic above had thermocouple below battery, between foam and heatshrink.
Removed enclosure with no fans in area, was hit by wave of heat.

IR gun measuring top of battery, 45c in places it was 55c last 2 enclosure lifts.
Moved thermo couple to top of battery and it largely agreed with IR gun.

I need more thermocouples to fill out the display.

The super low tire PSI is responsible for X amount of additional battery heating?

My battery is cooking.

I can put the new 10s1p p42 in there, but it is no quick swap.

This enclosure should fit a 10s2p 21700 pack.
JP40’s, oh how I covet thee…

If a sane Tire PSI does not tame the excessive battery heating, I’ve little choice but to retire this pack, adapt it to range extender status perhaps.

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A couple times at Pavillion, i selected a shell and deflated my board’s 8x3 turfs and chariot’s 4.10-3.50-4’s further but never bothered actually checking the PSI.

Just checked and the turfs were at 5.2 and 4.7psi, and the chariot’s were 8.7 and 8.9Psi. This certainly helped roll the crushed shell trail and some grassy areas, but not by huge amounts. Freeroll did not seem too badly affected, but I went lower psi in stages every few days.

Having to push my skate 120 meters yesterday, the freeroll sucked so bad, even when 90% of my weight was on urethane hub motors in back.

I am hoping a reasonable psi can help from cooking battery, but it could simply be the DMEGC cells never had enough CDR headroom, and have developed more resistance with the usage they’ve been subjected to.

<2500 miles I estimate, and 90% of that is towing the chariot. Im 192lbs, Fiona is 52, the esk8 is likely 25, the chariot similar.

I am also surprised how long it takes the battery to cool down, with enclosure removed and exposed to forced airflow over and under. I’ve been largely waiting no more than 10 minutes before throwing board back.on charger on my return, and the battery is likely at 55c when ive been doing so.

Got 22 JP40’s in my cart.

I should see how the p42a 10s1p does in same usage. 5.2ah and 30 amp vs 4.2ah and ‘45’/35 amps.

Gotta learn the TS101 today. Gonna start with a 5s power source.

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Freeroll much improved with 25psi in all tires, of course. Top speed, accelleration too.

Lot quieter as well.

I ran battery to from 41.82 to 35.45v and found battery at 44.2c, with the bottom if it which is in squichy foam cradle, 1.5c cooler than the top of battery where there is much more thickness of harder foam and open air space, and much less heat conduction .

Certainly better than 55c.

Since i had to remove a bunch of cinch straps to get sensor in center of bottom of battery, then dumbassed my charge port fuse again, I temporarily slapped the 10s1p p42 a in there, and am charging it at 96 watts.

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10s1p of P42a, my second battery build.
My first Molicel propulsion.

It just wiped the asphalt with my 10s2p DMEGC pack.
Way more torque and grunt and throttle available.

Still got it upto 48.2c.

5.15$ for each JP40…

22 in Cart.

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Another run to the park.

41.86v and 35.1c battery temp start.
33.56v and 52.2c finish at our highest average speed, likely ever, when towing.

It’s a different board with this smaller p42a battery. Right up to the time the lingyi beeped three times at me, it had far better torque than dmegc pack.

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We are back at the closer park, after cruising the far park and neighborhood.

The ‘on paper’ smaller capacity of the P42a 10s1p pack seems to be a non issue.

Every time I look at the remote’s battery indicator under load, at same locations, then let off and again look to see if I gain another bar, I often find it is already that bar higher. The extra torque available is a bit stunning to me.

When I replaced the supposed 24 amp Puaida/lingyi esc which says use a battery of no less than 30amps, with the 62$ ebay lingyi nuclear cockroach ESC, there seemed to be an instant loss of 15% available torque, but I could roll, and accepted it.

I am.pretty confident in saying that it feels like this 10s1p p42a pack is allowing 20% or more torque than the high mileage DMEGC 10s2p pack.

I am not using nearly as much throttle to go the same cruising speeds, and smooth straight aways where i was normally at full throttle wishing for a bit more speed, am finding i am going faster than I need to, with some throttle still left.

My esc heatsink also does not feel as warm as expected when I stop.

I think I am ordering JP 40s later today.

The extra thickness of 2!700’s, and the series duaL 14awg wires on top of battery, would pose an issue were I to attach this enclosure back atop the kayakable midsize board which it was made for.

Not an insurmountable issue, but I am making all future enclosures a few mm deeper from now on, and screw the ground clearance loss

The TS101 iron on a 5s battery is sure different than the Weller guns and irons I was used to.

I only attached some 14 awg to a boost converter so far, with out issue, but a ‘smart’ soldering iron with a throttle is new to me, and I wonder if 5s and maxing it out will be sufficient for 10awg.

I can use boost converter to feed it 6s voltages for more power, but I dont think jll be acquiring A USB power supply capable.of unleashing its full 95 watts.

Editadd…

We took the slightly longer route back from park, and I decided to full throttle the whole way, to get more comparative battery temp reading to yesterday’s runs.

About half way i noticed speed was down, and heard lingyi beep once

Then it beeped twice far sooner than I am used to, and I slowed intentionally.
3 beeps came within another 250 meters, and 150 more after that, 4 beeps, no more power, and we coasted down to pushing speeds, and I pushed the last 200 meters home.

The Dmegc pack had at least 2 more miles of range at sedate speeds from the time the Lingyi beeped once to the time it shut off power to motors and I had to push.

Seems the Molicel pack was a little over a half mile from that first beep, until I had to push, and we had good tailwinds.

We left at 41.76v and a 27.2c battery
We returned to 32.26v and a 42.2c battery.

Ambient was 26c ish, sunny high clouds, noon.

1 Like

My ‘250’ watt voltage booster arrived.

Checkout this lovely soldering job at base of Toroid.

Also,

22 Ampace JP40 cells have been ordered.

Lowest IR 21700’s available?

Surely I cant be the first on this forum to purchase them, although my order number is in the mid 1000’s, which might mean less than 100 previous orders, or less than 1100, if actually starting at zero.

Fiona and I took a late arvo cruise.
Left at 41.62v and 33.8c 10s1p p42a battery.
Returned to 34.34v and 52.2 C battery exterior

Too hot!

Removing this enclosure to measure temp is quick. I add fans blowing over and under after measuring the sbocking numbers.
It takes a while before temp decreases to mid 30’s without charging, with high airflow over and around it…

Previous to taking temp readings I would just aim fan over closed secured enclosure and start charging a battery likely well over 55c. at upto 0.5c.

Battery cooker, oh cook me a battery. Didnt you think you might be cooking your battery too?

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This solder joint on the right looks fine. The one on the left is very sus.

Can you elaborate as to why?

The joint on the right seems to have the wire floating 3 mm above circuit board atop a resistive blob of solder, the one on the left seems to be immersed in the solder blob.

The bottom of this booster is solid aluminum, So i’d think this is factory hand soldered.

I was gonna try and get that leg on the right to look like one on left, before testing this, but now, am confused.

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The one on the left still has flux around the base, signifying that it wasn’t fully heated and may have a much weaker connection to the pad on the PCB.

The one on the left has the solder visibly holding well to the PCB pad.

A;so looks like the one on the left is a blob of solder simply sitting on the wire and not wicked properly into it.

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The wire wrapped around toroid is not stranded, it’s insulated with a varnish.

To me it looks like a smidge too much solder added to one on left and excess flux not removed before hardening, and the right leg moved before solder solidification.

But I’m no expert.

I’ll redo both.

Decided to test it unloaded
Thing popped a 7.5amp fuse immediately.

Oh well.

Guess I could practice soldering without worry now.

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The one of the left doesn’t look attached to the pad properly, like it’s a cold connection. The pad on the PCB didn’t get hot enough, it would appear. Extra flux is okay-ish, but if you want to remove it, some 91% isopropanol should take it off.

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Thank you.

I saw my TS101 drawing 54 watts when removing and returning the WWT on a 5s Ridgid battery, set to 400c. The whole base of the Circuitboard is an aluminum heat sink

Its larger heavier brother arrived today
similar design.

The plan is to attach this to the esc heatsink on 7s2p enclosure as Emergency portable charger I can keep on the chariot

Removed battery to plan wire routing on new enclosure.

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