Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

Cut these little pieces of foam to push vertical walls against enclosure.

Tacked in place with superglue, saturating one half strand of woven roving

Trick is to use the thin CY glue, not the gel, and saturate from middle towards edge. If one goes too fast, and comes back to saturate dry areas more, it will likely not turn mostly clear, and might not be as solid as otherwise. It’s pretty thirsty stuff.

But since it eventually gets paint and will be overbuilt, imperfect results can be more easily tolerated.

Glass schedule will be 5 strands of epoxy saturated roving along each edge on exterior, not worrying about bending them over the edge, just splaying their edges, and will sand off once cured.

7 strands would have made me happier, for a wider fillet.

The Interior will likely need far more strands for a wide fat mating surface, but could also just be thickened epoxy rather than woven roving strands, which would be far easier.

Keeping epoxy out of the brass post’s interior threads mandatory.
They are cleaned and waxed already

Laid more roving fillets on interior, then added milled fiberglass and woodflour thickened epoxy atop that, seated the kapton taped heatsink, and forced what spooged out the sides, back under.

I just pulled the tape while still a bit soft, and the heatsink and the screw studs came off cleanly, and easily.

But the mold of heatsink underside, is imperfect.
Nothing RTV can’t seal, but I might have to try again.

The kapton tape wrinkled and those wrinkles transferred to the thickened epoxy.

I also dislike adding brown wood flour, to the Volan greenish color, but it will eventually get painted flat black and be inconsequential.

I thought i had some non pigmented Cab o Sil/fumed silica, but if I did, I apparently found the world’s least logical hiding spot for it.

I want to do more tonight, but at 9:42pm, it is 87f/30.5C in the garage, with high humidity, and I’ve already sweated enough today.

What I should have done instead of Kapton tape, was buff, polish and kultiple times, wax the heatsink so that epoxy could not stick. But there is always the fear that it will bond anyway

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Clamped belt sander and vaccuum hose to table then flattened lip on the exterior, and xacto knifed the interior a bit cleaner.

Decided to try molding again, without Kapton or plastic separating heatsink from enclosure.

I polished the F out of the heatsink and waxed it numerous times, filled the low spots with unthickened laminating epoxy, placed heatsink atop, and weighted it.

If this is my last post ever, I am crying in a corner somewhere, as it bonded the heatsink anyway.

Actually, Id just leave it and squirt rtv along inside corner, if heatsink bonded to enclosure, but I reserve the right to cry in a corner anyway.

I can still attach FSesc6.6 mini, or hobbywing/Puaida esc to it.
It’s pretty well recessed, and the area is mega strong with so much roving inside and out.
Hopefully the passing airflow gets inside recess rather than skipping over.

I really went to extremes trying to avoid external fasteners.
Probably foolishly so, but oh well.

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I razor knifed the edges, and pressed with thumbs, no go.

I tried twisty flexing the very rigid enclosure, and pressed, no go.

I placed Ice cube onto grid, and the cube acted like it was being sucked into a vacuum cleaner, melting and sticking. No water dripped to inside. Could have just left it.

Dried it and hit interior copper with a torch briefly, and twisto flexed it and pressed, nothing, solid as a rock.

Found some adequate load spreading wood blocks and a hammer. Tippy tippy tap tap tap and buhahawhahaaaaaa, out she comes.

It is almost perfect as is.
Brass post threads free of epoxy.

A thin smear of rtv and it should seal perfectly.

Only took me three days.


Cleaned up the new epoxy edges, and interior threads of brass posts to remove any polishing compound and car wax which transferred to enclosure from heatsink and the taped dummy threaded aligning posts.

The sink just drops into perfectly into place, and screws oerfectly aligned, and threy threaded in easier than ever.

Instead of a hard stop at the end, I could feel them slightly compress the new epoxy.

I flipped it over, filled the 10mm cavity with water, and placed it on a paper towel and left it alone for 15 minutes and could detect no visual drop of water level.

One drop did get in on the paper towel though, but considering I used no rtv or sealant, I am satisfied.

One issue is the copper plate is flexible.
When the hobbywing esc was screwed to its edges, the center of the heatsink was basicaLly bowing away.
It was filled with thermal grease of course, but the gap might have been as much as .25mm, which is no good for thermal transfer.

Now the posts are fully surrounded by fiberglass, and the entire 10mm perimeter of heatsink is too, inside and out.

So the bowing outward of heatsink when is ESC is attached is basically eliminated.

Pre final molding, I made sure it was bowed upward very slightly in the middle.

When Esc is fastened on, it should make far more direct contact with the middle of the heatsink, squeezing thermal grease from center to sides, rather than sides to center.

Going all week, without being able to exceed 12 mph, or.going for a paddle, has me all itchy and fog brained.

Gonna just slap Puaida ESC back in for a few days and deal with stepped throttle and shit brakes, See if i can get it to thermally throttle midday.

Move ancient laptop into workshop, download vesctool.

Painting the enclosure flat black aint hapoening soon either.

Well drat, thermal throttling still happening.

I was asking a lot from it, towing a wet Fiona, 90f outside and asphalt in direct 5pm sun… A few miles it was way down on orque and maxxing out at 16mph, and i decided to drain the battery till one light was flashing.

I came up to a stop sign, had to actually stop to give way, and when I got back on the throttle, much more of the torque was back and 23 mph max and stayed until remote started beeping with low battery.

Put board on table immediately, felt heatsink and could hold fingers for about 3 seconds before I had to remove them.
IR temp gun is useless on highly reflective surface, but one hub motor inner cap cone was 177.5f, the other 30f less, both outside caps 137 or 143f.

The recessed copper sink not being in direct airflow isn’t helping, no doubt. But i wonder about airflow along enclosure in that area, shadowed by front truck.

I could adhere at thicker deep finned heatsink to the copper with JB weld, or throw down for actual thermal epoxy

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I think that is actually pretty good considering. Ambient temps being what they are and hubs well known for trash thermal performance. Without some kind of ankle slasher hub mounted heat sinks, thermal throttling looks inevitable. You are towing with a hub motor. It is my impression that heat generation on the hubs starts at the stator - which is bolted to the trucks. Maybe add thermal grease to the hub/truck connection or possibly look for bulky trucks to add thermal mass without adding rotational mass?

I love hubs, i wish there was something with good thermals & reliability to suggest but i don’t know of any. Everything I’ve tried is hit or miss so far.

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Well, the hubs have no temp sensors.
I took these temp readings on the hub exteriors, with IR temperature gun, after confirming it was worthless on new shiny copper ESC Heatsink, which was damn hot.

So the Puaida ESC thermal throttling, can perhaps be saving the hub motors from overheating. The 10s2p 187 wh battery is likely also assisting in preventing overheating too, as I am range limited.

I can only imagine how fast I’d smoke hub motors, if there was anything resembling a hill in this area, and if my outings were longer, and if I had the watt hours to keep going.

I’m about 192 lbs, Fiona and her land chariot are about 70 more.

I don’t have much hope of helping hub motors to run significantly cooler, other than not pushing them as hard.

The 50mm x 80mm x 12mm deep heatsink recess could be filled with more thermal mass and surface area, which then might allow me to much more easily fry the hub motors.

I did a shorter slower evening barkcruisethehood, and hub motors interior caps were 127f ish outers 115f and the ESC heatsink was not able to cook my fingertips on our return. Ambient about 87f.

This evening, Fiona and I barked up the hood, a bit less aggressively, and experienced no ESC thermal throttling, but we did stop at the grassy park for some ball playing half way through.

It’s easier to just aim board, and use throttle walking over the grass, rather than tow it in the chariot, which is probably good at sucking heat from hubs and hanger.

When remote was flashing one battery bar, it was still able to get us upto 23mph.
Ambient temperatures were in the mid to high 80’s.

Hubs were 150f ish when I stopped, and I could hold my asbestos fingers on the heatsink longer than I could the hubs.

The sharp edges at the enclosure’s heatsink recess, are not good for pulling passing air into the recess, so I’m gonna round the sharo leading edge and sides edges off, which should help suck passing air into the recess and across the copper grid.

I wonder how efficient the puaida ESC is, compared to a better ESC, and how much more efficient it would be when running cooler.

The new 90mm hub motors are definitely more powerful than my 83mms, but range has to be down.

Holding Fiona’s chariot handle in my right hand, my right arm, shoulder and hand and right calf are kind of burning towards the end of the battery anyway. I like the control, and sometimes pull her up alongside, or when going over sticks and pebbles, pull her off to the side to keep her from getting pelted by stuff lifted by my wheels, so redesigning the chariot to attach to the board, is not in the cards.

Also, when walking the 0.4km crushed shell trail to the water, the esk8 rides in the chariot. Fiona, if i have her on the leash, does most of the pulling, I just hold the handle.

I don’t really ride alone anymore.

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A message to my remaining intact tools…
Co-operate or die.

Last night, had future brother in law on Diagonal mini, with the 'do not hit the brakes ’ warning. Started him on power level 1, to see if he actually used to skate, once upon a time, as claimed.
Eventually he asked for level 3, which has same 12mph top speed as level 4, just less torque.

He was a bit timid on the throttle, but no rush. He wanted to just keep going, and we ran batteries near dry as he got more comfortable at his own pace.

Today, radar speed sign clocked us at 23mph, towing the Fionayak, with slight headwind.

Paddled about 6 miles,.a.couple times just throwing down as much power for as long as I could, to get heart racing and muscles exhausted.

Lots of fish jumping, manatees, and Porpoise nearby.

Saw very few boats, as it was cloudy, with threat of thunderstorms. Very nice lack of humans nearby.

I was checking weather radar often, , and mis estimated when the rain would start, and rode home in the rain. Had remote inside new, upside down Dog poo bag.

Hit no major puddles, but bottom of the board was foamy soaked on return.
I left it wheels down and bath toweled the underside with strong fan on it

I’ve not yet sealed enclosure as good as I can, and the power button seems most susceptible, but I think it survived unscathed.


It appears there are no board issues after towing the FionaYak in the rain.

Fiona and I hit a new top speed, in a slight tuck and with a slight tailwind and slight downhill last evening, towing the kayakless chariot.

Looks like the diagonal mini will not have to be diagonal drive in the future, nor suffer super thin shitty disintegrating urethane on 250 watt hub motors, with no hope of replacement.

Will have to modify some trucks as I want to keep the narrow width track.

Thank you Arzamenable.

Inboard 80MM M1 Manta drives inbound.

I got so excited, I ordered NOS sleeves and 80mm wheels too.


Was able to get out of the demented nuthouse for the weekend.

Had a good day kayaking on Saturday with Fiona, a couple miles north of our usual paddling zone, and no Esk8 weight in the front hatch, which was the first time I have gone kayaking without such, since I got an Esk8.

The lack of Esk8 weight was not really noticeable. It is Nose heavy no matter what.

She did a Lot of swimming.

Put several cycles on my battery today, wanting to go further outside the regular zone of prime asphalt and sub 20mph posted speed limits, but sidewalks are rough, drivers are insanely stupid, and oblivious, and slowing down for safety, or redlights, means less breeze, and its freaking Hot.

I like the 90mm hub motors and wheels better for both power and comfort, but on the rough stuff, it’s still not pleasant. I can barely feel any road surface vibrations through the handle of Fiona’s land chariot’s 8" pneumys, and I think exploring wider might necessitate a real board, not one which is limited by the need to fit inside a kayak hatch.

Progress stalled on the diagonal minis 10s battery, which then dictates enclosure design.
Don’t wanna disassemble the kayak tow vehicle as Im riding it 2 or 3 battery cycles a day, but I really need better brakes. I could slap rear truck and strap enclosure on long cruiser and have half pneumies, but little no rain resistance, and still have shit brakes.

ESC Thermal throttling is not an issue I am encountering, unless I am riding aggressively.

I am really digging having this board, as limited as it is.

Also excited how much room for improvement there still is.


Unloaded, fully charged battery, max throttle, my remote claims 30 mph.

The radar speed sign is almost exactly a mile away.
Fiona declined the command to step into her Land chariot, for an afternoon, post balance wire routing head clearing cruise, so I put the chariot back, and went alone.

I was amused with the extra acceleration solo, and the weak brakes are not nearly as bad with ~70lbs/31.8kg less weight, but I was trying to conserve battery, for the speed run at the radar sign.

The asphalt is new, but the crossing the parallel seams have the wheel edges catch and release funny when crossing, but I’ve gotten used to them and where the ‘funny’ is potentially dangerous.

Speed limit 20mph on main routes, 10 or 15 elsewhere.

The radar sign is located right before a turn. Says 15mph max, at the end of a 20moh stretch.
It Flashes at 16+

I’d blown a stop sign to get in front of a White SUV who might screw up my speed run if they stayed going straight, and there was a car infront of me I was hoping would turn off.

I commandeered the whole road, both lanes standing tall, lightly carving, doing 25mph, hyper alert for cars in front or behind, pedestrians, squirrels, pinecones, sticks as you all do, and have done long before I got into esk8.

Im sure others could take the one major turn far faster than myself, but it was the fastest i have yet tried it, as I wanted to conserve momentum, and I got lower, tucked leading shoulder in a bit, wished for younger knees, then clipped few apexes by some mid road islands, and found the road crown, and got lower, and aimed at radar sign, and fuck you knees, I got lower and had been full throttle since the turn.

There was a dog walker on far right side of road.

Long legs Lenore.

I have no idea what her name really is, and neither her or her dog seemed to hear the quiet hub motors or urethane on New clean asphalt, and I kept throttle at max figuring if the dog or LLLenore freaked out I’d be well past by the time either could react poorly.

I thought perhaps the battery in the radar sign had failed, and my data collecting speed run would be pointless, other than for adrenaline, but then it started flashing 27mph.

There is a slight downhill grade. Maybe going from 6 feet above mean high water, to 4.5 over 100 meters, but this is SW coastal Florida, and hills don’t exist.

I got a little lower, but doing anything downhill tuck related is not really feasible with 52 year old abused knees.

The radar sign is pissed off, flashing 27, 27, 27, then 28, finally, and I was stilll 30 yards from it, and the slight downgrade was not yet at its max.
I left road crown, and aimed at the sign

Some obstacles present themselves immediately after the sign.
A confined left turn, or a hard right.

I saw no traffic, and decided to commit to the left, but kept hammer down.

28, 28,28, the sign screams insistently, but I’ve already seen 28 before, once, and I could feel and hear and sense I was still accelerating slowly.

I chance a quick look at my remote, and it says 29mph, and I look back up and the screaming radar sign flashes 28, 28, 28, 29!.

‘Next… on the Dukes’

Turn coming up fast. Brakes get slammed, and they thankfully didn’t feel too weak, turn easily navigated, personal speed record broken, all is well.

It blows my mind you guys have drivetrains with 10 times as much power on tap.

I think I would be far too irresponsible with such power available.


My JST 2.0mm 6 pin connectors arrived today, about 20 hours after I realized the ESC sensor connectors are not the 2.54mm spacing I had in stock.

Looks like any attempts at getting the Evwan’s Vesc powering my hubs previously, would have been stymied by yet another unforseen factor, had i the gumption to fix what aint yet broke, only unideal.

Please Don’t confuse me further with potential sensorless operation possibilities.

I look forward, to when I can look back at the current anxious ignorance phase I am currently stuck in regarding Vesc, with humor, and regret at the delays.

Apparently, there are people in this housing development, who have seen me solo, ,.or towing her land or water chariits, tearing around on the skateboard, and have absolutely no idea it is electric.

Of the one Guy who pointed this out to me today, I asked,:
“Can’t you see the giant battery enclosure under the deck, hear the motors whine?”

The guy laughed and said:
"All I hear is you and dog barking, and then you are past, and all i see is your dog’s butt, and only hear the barks receding, Doppler effect style.

With a plan in place to be able replace the diagonal mini’s disintegrating 73mm urethane hub motors with 80mm M1 inboard manta drives, I spent some time today hammering the 73mm urethane on hot asphalt, with 7s2p enclosure strapped to its belly.

I really enjoy how nimble this board is. It is certainly lacking torque and speed, but high amplitude high frequency carves at the traction limit, even at 12mph, until the legs are burning and rubbery feeling, is a good thing.

The 73mm hubs being fed 10s voltages should help, and the 10s1p of p42a @151.2 watt hours should be far superior to 103.7wh of 7s2p crap cells currently powering the board through a horribly jerky ESC.

It will be getting the 80mm manta drives , but i will need to figure out how to mount them on narrow track hangers.

Some new 80mm urethane arrived today, as did a bunch of 10amp 5.5 x2.1mm charge ports, and the exterior rubber plugs for them.

The urethane has a far different feel than any other I own, and Im kind of eager to throw the passive front wheels in place of the 90mm Puaida urethane, just to feel the difference.

Zealous bearings ordered.

I got the 10s1p balance wires routed and soldered. …
Wish I had some of the black hot glue sticks

I’m not happy with 5-6 series connection, and will redo it with the ‘U’ inboard rather than outboard.

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Transferred the Puaida brand 90mm urethane wheel truck bearings to Inboard 80mm wheels, and tried them out.

Before, with all 90mm Puaida branded urethane, the vibrations were nearly equal between front and rear truck over pavers, cracks and rough roads.

These 80mm wheels seem like less than half the vibration reaches my front foot as does the larger 90mm hub motors on back foot.

I tried my racetrack, but was still not very confident.

I transferred my original Junk King truck back to the board, with hard roadside bushing, soft boardside, and had a go with the smaller softer slightly wider and offset inboard wheels up front, and got them hot, and too much confidence returned too quickly.

I recognized the danger before injuring myself, and started drinking beer after rubberfying my legs at 80% lunatic mode.

But then hit 30mph, terrain assisisted.
New personal record.

The new urethane is not all super sketchy crossing new parallel asphalt seams. I still feel them, but they are not all super abrupt and twitchy when straddling.

They remind me of how my acoustic longboard feels with hot worn heavily coned offset

I just ordered another pair of 80mm wheels, these are staying precisely,right where they are.


Tonights evening ride, we hit some of the roughest road surface around, and the new smaller urethane on front truck, again, blew my mind how much smoother they were, and sections considered intolerable before, are now not, especially when putting 75% of my weight on front truck.

I had 4 remote disconnects tonight. Going along fine, then power loss, look at remote which just days ‘disconnected’, and freeroll to a safe place to lift board, press power button twice, and off I go.

The first instance was weird, right in front of a restaurant, and when I got somewhere safe to press button on enclosure, A cop was pulling into restaurant drive through 15 meters away.

The second disconnect was right next to another restaurant, and in less safe an area to lose power, but it reconnected easily once the power button on enclosure was cycled.

The third disconnect happened in a complete residental zone.

And the Fourth, the same, at but at 22mph.

The free roll on this board is almost as good as acoustic, and I decided to just cycle the power button on remote, and by the time I coasted down to 14mph, I had power again.

Towing Fiona’s land chariot tonight, I had remote in left hand.

In left pocket is phone, and a small 14500 flashlight clipped to my pocket, aimed down, along my left calf and onto my board. Dimmed to ~ 35 to 50% of max brightness. It whines when dimmed. PWM whine.

A different 18650 flashlight does the same on my back leg.

I’m hoping these disconnects were caused by these flashlights and my phone, rather than being a new behavior indicative of a looming failure.

I’ve run these flashlights before, in same manner without issue, but the 14500/AA light was using a NiMh eneloop AA, not a lithium 14500, and I might have had phone in right pocket, not left.

Or maybe because it is a full moon and shit be cray yo.

Anyway, my first real drop outs.
I didnt enjoy them.
I dont know how hard belt drive slams on brakes when A dropout occurs, but these hubs have such great free roll, I was annoyed, not alarmed or thrown and roadrashed.

Luckily, I didn’t need to use the brakes when they occurred, and thankfulky Fiona will not attempt to leave chariot when stopped, until I say to do so.

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Swimming -est Sheepdog in the hemisphere.


Random remote disonnects happened several times today.
Once, it gave me full throttle for a second before going dead.

The first session today, didnt even have my phone in pocket, much less a noisy dimmed high power flashlights in each, and had 5 disconnects. Had to stop, press power button twice, then resume.

One disconnect, As i was coasting, it reconnected on its own.
Other disconnects, powering off remote and back on while coasting didnt work, had to stop, press button twice.

Button when connected to remote blinks red, not connected, solid red.

Every time i had to stop, and press button twice, found solid red.

Had cousin ride board today, he’s 50lbs lighter, on half power setting. He had no disconnects in a few miles.

It has been 10 days since since I had to ride in the rain.

I gotta go investigate.
Losing power is one thing, coasting to a stop on free rolling hubs, then and cycling power button to resume…
But locking in full throttle, is another.
That was scary, and I ‘might’ be working with 800 watts.

I didn’t realize that yesterday, I sliced open my feet on oyster shells when kayaking.
I’m always barefoot, and did not clean the wounds, much less keep them clean.

They are not happy feet.