Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

[SternWake]

I’ve been more and more annoyed a hub motor noise and have refined technique for disassembly, short of c clip plier employment, or removing square hub axle shafts from truck receptacle.

I cant seem to run these for any significant duration, and not find sand in them, but locating sand ingress point has so far, proven elusive.

I’m not finding any excessive play or heat, and have just been ignoring the whisoer like noise, for ~140wh bursts at a time, getting expected power and range, almost exclusively towing Fiona in her chariot, rarely solo.

Bought a cheap wood burner tool today

I covered previous enclosure, and truck hardware holes with blue tape before filling them and laminating other side.
In used back of fingernail on top of tape, lots.of pressure toninsure excellent adhesion.

Look how far the thin laminating epoxy wlcked up and down the plywood adjacent to the truck hardware holes, compared to the enclosure’s holes.

Makes me cringe, imagining the deck splitting there on a hard toe, or heel side turn.

[PedroMcJimenez]

@SternWake

(fuckoff, go away!)

@SternWake

(fuck you, and fuckoff,.i dont want to be on your narcissist fuckwit social media feed, fucking drive!!!)

@SternWake

( Fuck off, I aint stopping, and despise chit chat)

@SternWake

“fuck you, fuck off, leave us alone!”

@SternWake

I’m thinking the beer store is only open for 24 more.minutes.

I like you and youre a good dog daddy

Much respect for getting down and dirty with composites.
Cool to see the esk8 bug catch hold and take off, keep hustlin

[SternWake]

Thanks man. I appreciate it.
My ’ F ’ word over usage is regretted.

I’m overwhelmingly annoyed when riding, and following drivers need to stick a camera at me, introducing the most dangerous element of random pine cone, branch or pebble course adjusting obstacle in my path, which throws me or my amazing dog, under their tires of their glass and steel cage.

I dont know how long Fiona has left.
She’s got lumps and bumps everywhere, and swimming and chasing birds or balls, is where she is happiest, second only to the eskate ride that takes us there innher landnor water chariot.

I just wanna fulfill my promise to her.
And try and retain a little perspectve on right and wrong, and do the right thing, even though that makes one…
predictable.

[PedroMcJimenez]

@SternWake

I’m overwhelmingly annoyed when riding, and following drivers need to stick a camera at me, introducing the most dangerous element of random pine cone, branch or pebble course adjusting obstacle in my path, which throws me or my amazing dog, under their tires of their glass and steel cage.

Oh absolutely man, they can take their glance, smile and move on. Any more is selfish, dangerous, but mainly comes from a lack of understanding I hope.

@SternWake

My ’ F ’ word over usage is regretted.

No fucking ragrets

@SternWake

I just wanna fulfill my promise to her

You’re doing well, she looks happy

[SternWake]

I don’t know what’s happening here.

I really dont.

I just know I’m not yet

done.

[SternWake]

On Friday, I laid a pretty thick presaturated unidirectional fiberglass rope around the perimeter atop the woven roving overhang, then laid 1 layer of Bondo brand FG cloth on whole deck over the rope, and when that tacked up a bit, filled the weave with more epoxy, then sprinkled the Turbinado coarse sugar all over, spreading it evenly, pushing the crystals into the epoxy.

Then Fiona and I took the Kayak out.
Pretty much full throttle, and 20+mph the whole way there.

She is now so confident jumping off the kayak and swimming, when a school of spotted sea trout being chased, leapt out of the water nearby, she went cormorant level nuts, jumped off and went tearing off after them, ball in mouth, barking, and swimming fast, and then swimming in circles right where they jumped, and she did not want to get back on the kayak when I chased her down.

Today, the turbinado sugar dissolved off quickly under the hose, and left a really nice grippy surface.

I had to fine tune the vaccuum attachment on belt sander, and ground down the excess fiberglass, leaving about 6 to 8mm additional width around the perimeter.

It’s Imperfect, and not yet finished.

If I had to do it over Id glass the deck first, then flip, lay the rope and woven roving , and cloth the bottom, so then it would carry the deck concave up the edges, and allow more leverage. I could still accomplish this, but likely won’t bother.

I drilled out the truck hardware holes, and returned the trucks, and stood on the deck, giving it a little twist. It still twists, but seems far far stiffer than before.
I did strap the 7s2p enclosure to it, and could have ridden it, but I want it to be truly fully cured before adding riding stress to it.

It is still really light weight, even with all the additional epoxy and fiberglass.

I gotta finish the 10s1p P42a battery, then design the enclosure around it, the large Jbd smart BMS, and the nuclear cockroach lingyi ebay esc, even though It might get the Puaida ESC and Daly dumb bms which are both significantly smaller.

The midsize’s dual 350 watt hub motors are basically always noisy now. This evening Fiona and I were cruising around when the board suddenly sounded a lot worse.
I limped home slowly, unconvinced it was the hubs, and opened them back up, and found only a little sand.

The one suspect 16000rs bearing in the cap, I pried off the rubber seal, and it looked pristine inside. Returned the seals, reassembled with care and precision, and the new noise was still there.

Then I removed enclosure and found one of the brass screws holding the copper heatsink to studs was loose. I didn’t bother with Lok Tite as I expected to have the fsesc6.6 mini mounted there in the not too distant future, but added a drop this time as who knows when I will get to that.

I have run into the Puaida ESC’s thermal throttling again. I was not really pushing it as hard as the last time it occurred. The battery was much higher state of charge, but the sun was higher innthe sky, the asphalt and ambient temps hotter, so is seems exposing the heatsink to exterior airflow is gonna be required soon, as the insane Florida heat has not yet kicked in.

With my 83mm , supposed 350watt hub motors seeming to be incapable.of staying sand free inside, and their deteriorating urethane, I am considering what to replace them with.

The Backfire 600watt 96mm hub motors appear to have a 6 wire sensor connector, but I am not sure. Not sure what those wattage claims actually mean. Could I theoretically pump 600watts via 12S into my existing 83mm hub Motors with vesc, and get similar performance?

While I’d employ more torque and speed if i had it, I don’t really need it on the midsize board. It can tow the Fionyak to launch and back at least twice, at 20mph, on 10s2p of Liion wholesale’s cheapest 18650s.

If I relegated the midsize board only for Kayak tow duty, its hubs and urethane and wheels might last a long while yet, but as daily chariot tow vehicle averaging 10miles a day, it surely wont.

The diagonal mini’s hubmotor urethane and ride comfort on imperfect asphalt, is far worse, but it is so light and easy to carry in stores, I’d likewise like to save it for that duty.

I want a land chariot tow vehicle daily driver, which can easily handle the crushed shell trail, and grass, and horris asphalt.

If i can get over my intense dislike of belt noise,(same pitch as my tinnitus) I could almost DIY a real board, but Backfire ranger hubs are at the top of the list for now.

A 3 board quiver, rather than an all in one.

[SternWake]

Every time I have fallen when riding my Esk8s, it has been an unintended wheelie, thankfully this has occurred usually at low, and even once, no speed.

Back foot just barely behind back truck, not even really on the kicktail.

Tonight, I was crossing a little concrete drainage ditch in the center of a two lane road, at a diagonal, unweighting front truck, then hit the throttle once past, at about 10mph, and all of a sudden I am skidding on the kicktail, grinding fiberglass and wood, full brake.

If The brakes were stronger, I might have salvaged it.

I Acquired only a tiny amount of roadrash, barely any blood, Fiona was fine, seemed more worried about me, then she was sniffing something that needed to be peed upon, near the scene of the crime, and jumped back in her chariot instantly, when commanded.

My 83mm hub motors, after fresh disassembly, cleaning, and careful precise reassembly, stay quiet for about 150 meters before they start making whispering noises again. But now, they are louder than before, and I think there is some bearing type noise starting too, and I basically don’t trust them anymore.

A light whirr/growl, with the constant friction whisper when cold, but both abate somewhat once warmed up. The bearing whirr is only noticeable when cold.

I got some 16000RS2 bearings ordered, but doubt these will do much, and the inner bearing, I have not yet even seen it. The outer C clips spin in their grooves, and the one motor’s square axleshaft appears to have a cross threaded or improperly threaded bolt, that have been afraid to touch since arrival.

I am not taking motors off the hanger, or disassembling them more, until a new drivetrain arrives, and is operational.

Locate foot, aim, shoot, again, but the easiest cheapest quickest method to insure I can tow Fiona to her swimming hole daily and allow our post dinner evening cruise, is another set of hub motors.

Front & rear truck and dual 400 watt hubs, perhaps ‘upgraded’ 500 watt hub motors, for 149$, and the 90mm urethane sleeves are replaceable, and can utilize 105mm cloudwheel sleeve knockoffs too. Free ‘fast’ shipping from within USA.

My ‘700 watt’ 83mm hubs are 10 7/8" wide, and just barely fit into the kayak hatch.

The 800, maybe 1000 watt 90mm Puaida trucks claim to be 11.5" wide.

I might have to remove a smidge of Polypropylene from Kayak hatch perimeter to get them to fit, without having to remove hanger.

The Puaida speed controller and remote, not that i have much basis for comparison, seems pretty smooth and reliable. Supposedly, with the Puaida hub motors that I just ordered, powered by this 10s esc, 30mph is possible.

My 83mm hub motors on the Puaida ESC, maxes out at 22mph, with fully charged 10s battery and light tailwind. I’ve hit 24mph briefly, once, on slight downgrade with strong tailwind, in an aero tuck when battery was brand new, but this seems unrepeatable now.

I would love to have put this money towards higher quality propulsion, Or towards 50 P42a’s , or Backfire ranger X hub motors, but oh well.
What’s done is done.

[SternWake]

Awoke with a sore foot and shoulder, from the minor fall last evening, which would have been completely inconsequential 25 years ago, in my mid to late 20’s.

This afternoon, Unable to landscape without pain, I Decided to sit and solder some dual 14awg series connections on my 10s1p P42a.

I was unable to concentrate properly, as Moms alzheimers decided life shoukd be hell for everybody everywhere, until I went and spilled 3/4 a bottle of my new liquid solder flux down my leg onto my foot, went bananas, and sore sticky foot or not, I had to escape the insanity.

The ceramic tweezers are a great purchase, but my technique is lacking still.
I plan to reflow and add solder and generally clean this up, and my balance leads will have to serpentine their way between.

Having somehow achieved a 36v battery without sparks occurring, or going stark raving mad at my demented mother, I Towed Fiona’s land chariot, slowly, with sore foot, a mile to crushed shell trail head, then walked 0.25miles /0.4km to Kayak launch where there we had awesome weather and the whole area to ourselves for a good while.

I Noticed a few weird brief power surges today, when remote was low in left hand, near pocket my with phone in it when going slow, at 1/3rd power or less.

Wonder if this surging behavior contributed to last night’s wheelie backwards fall, more so than the 6 PBRs I drank while making and eating dinner for the family and those pesky general recurring skill issues.

Perhaps Airplane mode is in order when underway, or perhaps the surges were unnoticed previously, as I am usually at higher throttle already, and these hub motor are pretty limited on torque at my usual cruising speed, with remote farther from the pocket with the phone in it.

[SternWake]

8 days Later, the bottom of he arch of my left foot is still sore, and getting old still sucks, but what’s another pain among so many other constant pains?

When rubbing Fiona’s belly the other night, I felt a lump by a wet nipple which released a bunch of brown fluid when I gently squeezed it, and if one googles that, that one comes away convinced it is breast cancer.

I am very much not ready to face her mortality.
She is too awesome a soul, and the best friend I have ever had.

The vet today did not seem overly concerned, and squeezed way harder and got tons more fluid out, to the point it is not realky a lump anymore, and sent me off with antibiotics and 300$ poorer.

With lumps and bumps everywhere, the vet chose one to aspirate, and said it looked normal under the microscope.

She also got a Cytopoint shot, and her itchy scratchies are down by 80% now, 11 hours later and she is sleeping peacefully, intead of waking every so often to scratch like a mad woman.

On our return from the vet, I wanted to tow her in her land chariot to the kayak launch and take her swimming, but after being poked and prodded, she did not want to get in her chariot, so I took a solo cruise, the first in a long while.

Seems like warmer weather and warmer fully charged battery yields a more reliable 23mph top speed, than cooler weather allows, when 22 mph is reliably attained only for the first two miles.

Also, I am running into ESC thermaL throttling regularly, but much more so when I use the brake from higher speeds, approaching stop signs aggressively, late.

The Puaida esc brakes are pretty weak to begin with, so max brake is not much stronger decelleration than max throttle accelerates, yet max brake seems to trigger the thermaL throttling faster and easier than does max acceleration and just holding high speeds. I can almost wear battery down and not run into thermL throttling, unless I have to use brakes, yielding right of way, then it is instant thermal throttle.

Is this kind of expected, that baking seems to heat the ESC, more so than similar levels and durations of acceleration?

Exposing the my interior heatsink, to exterior airflow, is becoming more a necessity, as the sun gets higher and stronger, but I fear any esk8less downtime, without a backup board ready, or even close to being ready.

I have not touched the newly encased in fiberglass diagonal mini deck, nor worked on its battery or enclosure as other life based shit takes precedence.

Working on my esk8 or related projects is seemingly as self serving and narcissistic and hedonistic, as going surfing used to be, when I still had the luxury of living to surf and surfing to live.

I’ve not reopened the noisy sand ingesting 83mm hub motors, Ive just been checking the 24 non loc tited m4 screw tension before each outing, and irresponsibly sending it.

3 charge/discharge cycles a day minimum, lately.

Measured 200f on one outer hub cap once via my ir gun after a ride, its opposite motor was 170f.

The 90mm Puaida branded dual hub motor trucks that I ordered, 8 days ago, which were supposed to arrive in 3-5 business days, and be shipped from within the USA, shipped instead from China, but tracking now has them 75miles north if me, as of 23 hours ago, and Hopefully arrive tomorrow.

Am curious to actually compare my 83mm motors to the 90mm. I wonder if the motor is same diameter and just has 3.5mm thicker urethane.

[haven]

@SternWake

Measured 200f on one outer hub cap once via my ir gun after a ride, its opposite motor was 170f

that’s no bueno, 90°C on the outer cap means the inside’s gotta be cookin a bit

that’s close to cutoffs for my reachers lol, those hubs must be solid

[SternWake]

They keep going, thankfully.

The one hub motkr has always run significNtly hotter than the other.

Barking up the hood towing Fiona in her land or water chariot, might be the only thing keeping me subjectively sane in this Alzheimered nuthouse.

[SternWake]

The 150$ 90 mm Puaida hub motors arrived today, in a smashed up poorly taped half ass cardboard box that look like it was kicked around the globe 3 times, rather than 0.5 times.

I wanted to put new hanger on old baseplate, but pivot cup appears too large for new hanger pivot. Old hanger pivot would not fit into new baseplate pivot cup, but new hanger did fit on old baseplate, a little too loosely, So I swapped baseplates.

The phase wires are heavier gauge, it was basically plug and play, once I switched baseplates.

Changed tire diameter on remote, then odometer suddenly read about 30 more miles accumulated than before.

No load max speed is 30mph.

They are much better balanced than the 83mm hubs.

I was able to hit 26mph/[ 42 kmh, with a headwind…It felt like it was still slowly accellerating, but I ran outta road, and the board side bushing is softer than a blue shortys doh doh, and even with the kingpin nut cranked down, it is still a bit loose, and i like loose but will be stepping up duro untik wheel bite is nearly impossible

I just put new 90mm wheels on existing front truck, rather than transfer new front truck.

Torque feels exactly the same from 0 to 18mph, but where 83mms petered out at 22/3mph, these kept going to 26.

Even disregarding the 83mm’s everpresent ‘whisper’, the 90mms are so much quieter, both motor noise and road noise are greatly reduced.

Free roll is greatly improved over the 83mm’s and is nearly as good as acoustic, and so quiet. Almost stealthy quiet in comparison. I hit the brakes to let grey haired pedestrians walking in my direction, become aware of my presence.

The brakes are noticeably weaker, and just as loud as on 83mm hubs.

Got Fiona in her land chariot upto 24mph confirmed by angry radar sign, a new record for us. The out of round and imbalanced pneumatic on the chariot’s axle is more noticeable at higher speeds with less motor and road noise.

The comfort level over paver creases, and rougher pavement, and pebbles and sticks, is significantly improved, and is so much quieter too.

I was kind of hoping for more torque, and the fact that it feels almost exactly the same is a bit weird, but it is the same ESC.

I didnt go far enough to estimate any potential range loss with bigger wheels that might also be a bit softer.

[SternWake]

Charged back up to 99%ish, stepped on it, and same damn whispering type noise as old hub motors appears, and all I could do was laugh, and mash throttle.

The radar sign a mile away, just barely hit 28mph/45kmh, as I got close with no headwinds. I was not gonna look at remote to see if it agreed, at that speed with a 20mph turn approaching fast and weak brakes.

The sheathed phase and sensor wires came with a cable gland pre installed, but it wont allow the MR30 through. I just left them outside, as my enclosure just has two gaps in gasket to allow wires through. I think the idea

The reverse kingpin truck appears to be the same height, and kingpin at same angle, but it feels carvier, like rear truck is swinging ass end wider than original front truck, juat 90mm wheels. It feels a bit off, so installing the new front truck might help, and dialing the duros needs to happen.

The new hanger seems to get warmer than the old hanger, as if the heat transfer to it is far better than my 83mm truck and motor shafts coupling

It kind of looks like the cable glands are suppsed to cut their own threads in predrilled enclosure hole, rather than have a nut on the inside. If there were nuts provided, they fell out the hole in the box, and would not fit over mr30 without desoldering. or the 5 pin sensor JST, as is.

[SternWake]

With the new and old truck mismatch going on, I installed Puaida truck on front, and did a bunch of dialing a feeling, on the new trucks, and came away confused and less confident.

How two trucks with seemingly the exact same width and kingpin /hanger angles can feel so different, is hurting my brain.

My old baseplates, the kingpins wobble a mm or 2, and the boardside bushing is more ‘contained’ within the hanger.

The new trucks just seem too responsive to input.
Im using my hardest duro bushings cranked down to tame it, but the carving arc just feels different, shorter, tighter, and Im just not digging the difference, especially on the second half of a turn and trying to figure out the new motors’ different throttle curve, when powering out of a turn.

I’m not feeling close to speed wobble at the newly available higher speeds, but the new trucks just feel ‘twitchier’, and i can achieve low speed wheel bite far too easily, where inreally had to try with old trucks. I did add another 1/8" spacer on front, but Can still have then bite the deck and enclosure flange too easily. ,and had to step off abruptly, seemingly reinjuring my already sore foot.

If the old rear hanger did not have one suspect bolt securing the plate, which I suspect will strip the threads in cast aluminum on removal, , Id transfer new motors to old trucks, and new wheels to old front truck.

But maybe its just cause I’m old and can’t handle change, and get off my lawn.

With surfboards and removable fins, I used to spend way too much time trying to compare and contrast and dial in a feel with a dozen different variables, but each swell has a different feel and too many variables change on every subsequent wave. I sewed pockets onto my wetsuits and would flip my board over after a wave, and move fins up or back, or swap one fin with another, mid surf session, multiple times per session, So the reliability of smooth asphalt trial and error should be a cakewalk in comparison, but I was just not achieving the feel I was used to with slightly smaller diameter wheels and different trucks.

Fiona and I hit 25mph at the radar sign, trying for 26, but nope, and I had to hit brakes hard, and they seemed less weak at such a speed causing a wobble, and I had to let off and take the turn way faster than intended with somebody somewhere shouting ‘slow down!’ Speed limit 15.

Im gonna have to reattach a camera to chariot, because these photos were taken with with the diagonal mini struggling to hit 12 mph and does not properly convey Fiona’s grin at 20+mph

[SternWake]

Esc thermal throttling seems to occur faster in a cruise than before, even when riding sedately, and not using the brakes much.

Also the Puaida esc always had these throttle steps, 10 or 12 from neutraL to max, obvious when unloaded, but not when riding with old motors, but with these new hub motors, I can feel nearly every one when slowly accelerating.

Lurch, over correct, feel like kook.

With the brakes being way too weak, and these annoying steps in the throttle, and the thermal throttlng, I really wish I had already gotten the fsesc 6.6 mini that Evwan sent me operational.

I might have to forgo all other responsibilities today and get down to it.

I can just velcro cinch strap the 7s2p enclosure back to the diagonal mini and suffer the 12mph top speed and hideous brakes if Fiona and I need to escape the demented nutbouse, and if I fail getting the 6.6 set up in a reasonable time.

Exposing heatsink to airflow will likely require more than one epoxy mixing, but I can likely put that off. Ill assume the fsESC’s much higher power raTing and heatsink’s thermal mass, and my limited watt hours could make thermaL throttling much less likely to occur.

Or, Instead of flirting with the potential can of worms, I can just live with unideal, as my procrastination skills have no equal.

[PedroMcJimenez]

Living in florida and already hitting overtemps in spring, i would highly suggest getting a heatsink exposed to air with thermal paste between the 2.

The difference it makes is huge, no matter the esc you use.

[Evwan]

^^^
Even when you switch over to the flipsky esc, you’ll need a heatsink. I’m running them on a 4wd setup (two of the escs) and they’re getting pretty damn hot without airflow. If it’s only overheating at the end of your ride, you may be a-ok with just an internal heatsink to soak the heat.

[SternWake]

I was never gonna go without a heatsink, i just been hesitant to cut into the enclosure

I realize this copper plate is un ideal as an enclosure heatsink. Amazingly heavy with not all that much surface area.

These 4 brass posts epoxied into enclosure, are measuring 112f to 115.5f/ 46C hunting with IR temp gun, on the fiberglass of enclosure’s exterior, about 30 seconds after ending ride.

The blue taped off area of this copper sink, is what I intend to expose to airflow.
It will be recessed, rather than sitting proud.
Maybe louvers to scoop and exhale, or just holes.
Not sure yet.

It has been elevated over enclosure floor, about 6mm, for about 350miles

Im gonna JB weld, and flatten out the grid, as a future sealing surface.

Trying to figure best method, but as usual, making it as difficult and time consuming as possible.

Gotta strap 7s enclosure back to diagonal mini, so I have something to ride in the interim.
Or perhaps strap 10s2p battery and esc to it instead.

[SternWake]

Did not get very far yesterday, too many distractions leading to inability to concentrate.

One of the best ways to clear the head and restore ability to concentrate and actually make progress, is going for a cruise, letting eyes scan asphalt for obstacles, judge surface texture, compare to what feet feel and ears hear.
Carve, make urethane hiss.

But now faster board is disassembled.

So I slapped 7s enclosure and hangers back on the diagonal mini, which is now encased in fiberglass with a 8 to 10 mm wide roving perimeter, making the deck 16 to 20 mm wider.

The deck’s twisty creaky flex is much reduced, and the extra width is much appreciated, leading to a lot more confidence in it.

But the thin 73mm urethane sleeves are not confidence inspiring, and the bearings in either motors or passive wheels seem to be rough and grindy and very loud compared to the whispering new 90mm hub motors and wheels.

And of course 12mph max now feels snail like.

Dont wanna stress my rigid 10s battery strapping it to the concave just to see how these motors like more voltage.

Hopefully I can get faster board reassembled pronto, but should be making dust, not typing.

The copper heatsink is 70x100mm.
50mm x 80mm of its center will be exposed to airflow.

I was wondering how thick the enclosure was here.

Averages 2.85mm

[SternWake]

I could tack these vertical walls in place with superglue, or epoxy and roving, butted up against the kapton taped copper, then lay fin rope up against the walls on the exterior.

Then flip, remove copper, lay more presaturated FG fin ropeated, and returned kaptoned copper sink to mold a 10mm wide interior flange. which should allow a nice even kapton tape thick layer of RTV to seal the gap.

Or cut a gasket of some sort, or both.

Should be super strong ,and be able to form a sold waterproof seal.

When inserted into kayak, there is a potential drip from right above this area, so I gotsta make sure it is as good as i can get it.
Ill leave a little lip on the exterior as well.