My ridgid 10s2p singlestack flat pack Dmegc 5.2ah battery is basically floating in soft squishy neoprene foam, so the deck and enclosure can flex around it.
Gravity makes it a bit difficult to hold everything in enclosure, and lay it.on the underside of the deck.
I wanted to be able to hold battery and wiring in place then flip enclosure upside down, and drive the 18 truss head screws holding it to the deck, rather than raise enclosure to the hull and then try and drive screws upside down, cursing.
Enter the fiberglass leash loop.
I’ve never done them this small before, so it was an experiment.
I slid 4 strands of tow/roving/finrope into some plastic tubing lengths, then allowed them to drink as much epoxy as they wanted, sliding plastic tube left and right to insure complete saturation, then laid them in place, and splayed the ends.
Once cured, I slit the tubing, grab an edge with some needle nose vice grips, and there is a nice smooth round gap, the width if the tubing wall.
Low profile, and ridiculously strong.
Mechanical fastener free attachment points.
This worked pretty well, and I decided the area between battery and Esc should just have many location options as to where i decide to cinch the wiring tight, so I used longer pieces of fin rope, with more lengths of black plastic tubing, and the red plastic tubing with metal bars inserted, to press areas inbetween black plastic tubes, to the enclosure.
I used 3 pieces of roving, not 4 on these in-line, mostly parallel mini leash loops.
The epoxy does not bond to what I believe is polypropylene tubing. It is airline hose, for firestone suspension airbags, so once again i can just slice it lengthwise, and remove the tubing, once the epoxy cures.
I can use small zip ties or similar, to attach battery or wiring securely to the enclosure interior, and in theory, this should make swapping enclosure and drivetrain to the Linasquat a much faster, curse free process, and keep things from vibrating and chafing.
As an experiment, I removed my 2.2ah 7s1p battery from its tiny enclosure, which came with the 99$ mini, charged it to 29ish volts, and plugged it into the charge port of my 7s2p 4.0ah enclosure, which was also right around 29v.
I used a velcro cinch strap to hold it to deck in between my feet on the diagonal
mini.
The lesser voltage sag, on acceleration was noticeable, but it was not a huge difference.
The diagonal mini was no faster, with a tailwind, but was with a strong headwind, when towing the Fiona Chariot, but still 12mph max.
The 7s2p battery has been getting 3 cycles a day lately, and its capacity is now obviously degrading, which was why I decided to try paralleling the 7s1p through the charge port.
It was nice having the extra torque and slightly higher too speed, after Fiona’s swim, against a strong headwind and slight elevation gains on the long way home.
I didn’t and won’t keep the two 7s packs in parallel once home, and will charge them separately.
These premade junk 7s packs will soon be retired from directly feeding an esc, but might feed a dc boost converter and be a portable 10s charger or charge and ride.
I need to get the Fsesc 6.6 mini mounted, wired and dialed in, but life is in the way, and my ability to concentrate is seemingly severely compromised, and I do not know if i can handle having Vesctool, and my inexperience, screw with my fragile sanity, at this moment.
Glad the diagonal mini is proving reliable as a sedate backup board and tow vehicle, but i miss linear brakes, and the 22mph potential of my 10s pack esc, and 700 watt hubs.
