@andoug Aha !? 
This may be the golden tip/info for me! Because yesterday i ordered some Radium Performance motormounts which i think were made for the earlier/non cnc ones.
You are saying that the earlier ones have a different square dimension ??
They also mention a wider top-truck part (baseplate) on the new onesā¦ meaning better spreading of force/strains to the board/deck
Iām waiting with my purchase till i get the full infoā¦
@MBS can you share thoughts/info on any dimension differences ?
Original matrix 3 hanger profile
I think radium mounts will still fit 22x22 just fine. I see people using the radium mounts on dualities which are 22x22.
I was looking all over for these dimensions, no luck finding theseā¦ Thanks very much !
Where did you hear or find the 22x22mm info on the newer ones ? Iām actually also curious about the radius , top one being 2mm , bottom one 6mm on the earlier version.
How are these on the new hangers ?
Iām not sure on the radius dimension on the new ones. I know they are 22x22 because I have a set 
Top one looks like a 2mm chamfer maybe on the cnc ones
@MBS I took the time to read through this whole thread this evening and things having to do with the CNC dimensions and non CNC became clear 
Only question i have left is ; are the CNC version truck-baseplates wider/larger than the non cnc trucks (i believe i read this stated in some advertising) ?
The base of the top truck (the surface that interfaces with the deck) is indeed wider on the new version. The old width was 75mm. New width is 85mm. Better load distribution as you suspected.
The hanger profile (where mounts mount) is basically the same as before (22.4x22.4). The only differences are that the tolerances are a bit tighter, and the top 2mm radius changed to a 2mm chamfer. Bottom corners stil 6mm radius.
Hope that helpsā¦
that helps a lot, thanks ! 
Thanks for clarifying. I assumed they were 22x22 since these clamps for Linn Power gear drives were labeled 22x22.
@soflo so did you try the inner postions yet ? I also found the whiteās on the MBS-3ās still pretty āstiffā . Only rode a couple of miles but found these trucks far less carvy as the MBS 2ās. Damn stable, thatās the counter/trade in probably ā¦
I have put the blocks (mbs) on the rears also in the inner positions , to see if that helps a bit. I had the fronts already in the inner positions, still i wanted to see if i could get some more carvy ride feeling.
Today I cut a bit off my Riptide bushings and iām gonna give those a try tomorrow . Doānt know if these will be more carvy but i realy like the rebound on them; the pushing back to neutral if thatās stated correctly.
I ended up using the lacroix bushings in mine, i had a huge pile of them already.
And yes i moved the front trucks bushings to the inner position and got a good amount more movement from the truck.
Any chance you could post some pics on how you did the bushings? Im always running the white bushings on the inside position and only just barely any preload so theyāre a bit sloppy and return to center is weak. I donāt run bindings and do street so i know im not using the m3s for what theyāre best at but a little tweaking and to get better rtc would be nice
i used a razorlike painters-utility/knife(?) They use them i believe on windows etc. Or just use a new stanleyknife. It has to be sharp because you want to slice through in one time which was very doable (when using a SHARP + thin blade). I just put them on the workbench and with pretty much pressure pushed the way down with a āwiggleā motion instead of just pressing it downwards. I found it helped (wiggle, not sawing) because it helps start up the cut.
So basically match the bottom or align your knife on the block with the bottom. Like original/parallel.
Hereās a pic , i think itās clear enough. Uncut Riptide = dark grey one. Only thing is, as you can see, youāre missing 5mm of material so youāll have to screw in the screws on the trucks some more. I did them up with just a bit of preload, doānt want them to vibrate out. Iām going to watch critically when trying them out first time because i donāt really dig the missing 5mm of material and therefore using more screwthread. The smaller rubber will also not give the rebound which they are designed to give because of cutting a piece off. And ofcourse i hope they are safe ; stay in place. Iāve gotten on the board in the garage and really maxed out the trucks/trying the max carve standing still and all seems good 
ideally @RipTideSports will make us some taller ones 
?
I didnāt cut my lacroix bushings at all. Just popped them in.
I guess this could actually work out fine. The rebound will prob be slightly different because the first bit of āflexā will come from the block-area which only has a contactsurface if less than a mm
Same thing counts for the first moment of it being pressed in (?)
all speculations from my side ofcourse
Iāve got a few that i ground down to be flat on top, i ended up having to use more preload to get the return to center feel
Any problems occuring because of the more wiinds you had to use on the screws ? Over time i mean ?
No issues at all.
The preload adjusters can move their entire range without causing any issues.
With the current testing results of the MBS III Singularity bushings, it is unlikely we will make dual bushings to fit the MBS III.
