MBS Matrix iii (3) discussion

[Venom121212]

It started off as “I’ll just upgrade the trucks to matrix 3s.”

“well I’ll need new mounts for my gear drives…”

“well I’m on my last set of gears and there are several interesting new gear drives out there compatible…”

“that’s a lot of money for just a truck swap. May as well make a whole new build…”

“higher voltage could be fun…”

“Fuuuuuck that’s a few thousand $$$ commitment and the baby is now a toddler, requiring even more attention.”

“maybe I just grab a Warren pro 3 complete and leave it manual and build slowly from there?”

On loop x 1,000

So it’s more of a when than an if. If I can boost my top speed into the mid 50s and improve the bottom end torque so I can stop cranking the motor amps stupidly high, it’s gonna have to happen eventually.

[rich]

@Venom121212

It started off as “I’ll just upgrade the trucks to matrix 3s.”

Bahaha that’s exactly where I started as well but you now what happened in my case beside new trucks: new geardrives, new motors, new batteries, new esc, new hubs, new tires. So only the deck and the F5 bindings remained. It cost me a lot of money, but I don’t have kids plus a midlife crisis, so I’m allowed to

Please stop talking about high voltage! I’m broke!

[Shadowfax]

@Venom121212

mid 50s

@Venom121212

motor amps stupidly high

@Venom121212

Warren pro 3 complete

DO IT. She’s a beauty for esk8

@BigBen

12s3p 30t Dylan warren and Jump drives. Edit, 15kgs. Jumps will be lighter than chains. Belts break. You saw all the guys drop out of races on Tampas at EEBIT?

[Evwan]

Man that deck looks so much better than the old MBS decks. They nailed it

[OzzysPaw]

Ok, if I’m not trying to cut my own M3 riptides and go with mbs bushings (I got two orange and two red) should I still mount them on my old Radium adapters with the titanium pin? The adapter seems to fit nicely, but the ti pin seems to dive alot deeper into the mbs bushing… Maybe the longer pin gives me more range from loose to stiff? Idk

[Dinnye]

I know this thread is mainly for matrix iii stuff, but the rockstar ii pro xl hubs were also discussed here, so I thought I’ll share this here too and it might be useful for someone. I made a 3D printed widener for them:

@Dinnye

If anyone wants to print wideners for the MBS rockstar II pro XL hubs / rims here are the files, I just realised I still haven’t shared them yet:

The step file for 20mm if you want to make your own version
mbs_wide_20.step (75.4 KB)
The STLs from 10mm up to 40mm in 5mm increments
mbs_wide_10.stl (143.3 KB)
mbs_wide_15.stl (171.6 KB)
mbs_wide_20.stl (178.1 KB)
mbs_wide_25.stl (200.4 KB)
mbs_wide_30.stl (206.8 KB)
mbs_wide_35.stl (224.9 KB)
mbs_wide_40.stl (231.3 KB)

The minimum length this design supports is 10mm. Less is not possible, because the lip needs the extra material I added, otherwise it’s going to fail. However, that extra material needs to be chamfered, otherwise it’s going to cause wear on the inner tube. With this version I have personally not experienced extra wear on the tube. Different tire / tube / operating pressure combos might cause a different experience.

They are meant to be printed without supports in this orientation:

• If you suffer bed adhesion problems a brim is recommended.
• The design is meant to be a snug but not too tight press fit into both sides of the hub. This press fit makes sure that the hub’s interlocking feature still works, and helps prevent bent bolts by distributing the load. To achieve this fit, you will need to tweak for the filament’s shrinkage factor. In cura there’s a setting for that, but you can also just scale the whole thing up or down. You WILL need 2-3 tries to get this just right.
• Depending on the accuracy of your printer the holes for the bolts to pass through probably need to be drilled out with a 4mm drill bit. The design has specifies exactly 4mm, no tolerance.
• You need to source your M4 screws. The screws that come with the hub are M4x50 DIN912. To get the correct screw length for the front wheel, just add the width of the widener to this number. For the rear, on BN-AT drives you need to add an extra 10mm. Maybe 5mm extra is also enough, I haven’t tested that yet. So for example, I use the 20mm wideners, on the front I have 70mm screws, on the rear with the BN gear drive I have 80mm screws. Note: you don’t want these screws to bend under any circumstance. Always get the highest grade available, the wider you go the truer this gets. Stainless probably isn’t going to cut it, but you are welcome to test.
• Crappy PLA survived me and I ride pretty hard. PETG is probably the better choice though. Print on the higher end of the filament’s temperature spectrum.

Only the 20mm version is tested at this point. They are very robust if printed well.
This was the “failure” mode for me:

@Dinnye

This happened during a pretty serious crash, which messed up the bearing seat in the hub and deformed the lip too. So I think if you print them well they can take more beating than the hub itself.

Important note:
The hubs have sideset bearings by standard. Meaning, that the load on the bearings is not centered! This normally isn’t in issue if you use the hub as intended, however if you widen it even more, this might lead to increased wear on the bearings and increased load on the bearing seat. Check your bearings regularly! The wider you go, the faster bearings will wear out. I am going to try 3001 double row angular bearings in the hubs soon, those should take the extra load much better. I’ll keep you all updated how that goes. Those however take up more axle space.

Legal stuff:
Use this at your own risk. I do not take any responsibility for it.

[jpaulglobal]

When u speak of minor adjustments r u speaking of drilling holes in the bushings? Preesh🤙🏼

[rafaelinmissouri]

No.
I mean minor adjustments in preload.

So just turning the set screws a quarter turn.

[OzzysPaw]

I’m imagining myself completely destroying a set or two of bushings before getting it right. Did you post that jig file anywhere?

[TinnieSinker]

I made a +5 degree wedge for the Matrix 3 that look sweet af with tapered sides, and they come with captive angled washers. They rest against the wall/bushing mount to eliminate the need for a spanner

Let me know if you’d like other angles!

(i reduced the taper on this one a tad so it didn’t cover the sticker)
https://makerworld.com/en/models/625461#profileId-549859

[OzzysPaw]

Interesting idea with the washers. Does that mean you don’t need to drill out the internal threading in the baseplates? I’d love to have a -5… Is that in the works?

[TinnieSinker]

we do still need to drill out the holes, but I could do flat captive washers, so going back to no wedge is an option

i’ll do the -5 next