MBS Agent Series Electric Mountainboards Have Arrived

Great to hear! Extra adjustability is always a good thing! And binding fitment is very heavily personal preference.

Shifting the whole binding heelside doesn’t really solve the problem I think, because then the footpad will point the wrong way and doesn’t give equal leverage for both sides.

The way I usually setup my bindings is to stand on the board in my skate shoes at my feet in comfortable angles, then position my feet so that I have the same leverage to turn toeside and heelside. Then ask a friend to hold the binding on top of my feet, as close to the ankle as possible. Then I use a hole punch marker thing (hopefully you know what I mean hahaha) to mark out the two holes on one side of my feet. Drill them out, mount that side, ask my friend to hold the other side of the binding down as close as possible to my ankle and as close as possible to the side of my shoe, and I use the punch marker thing to mark it out again. Doable by just myself as well but more tedious.

I suggest that the furthermost tab that you add should be positioned with a similar technique to this, stand in the middle of the footpad with feet positioned for equal leverage and mark out the tab position for an average feet size with a fairly low profile shoe, to get a nice and tight fitment for those who need it. And also add an extra tab or two halfway between the two for those who prefer something tighter but not as tight.

On my raceboard that I marked out this way, I can stay in full bindings all day comfortably assuming I don’t crank them down too much.

On a haero deck using the built in inserts which I think give a fairly similar binding position as the current version of the baseplate, my feet go numb quickly, especially if I do tight heelside turns. The binding keeps pulling so far down my toe, that I can get my toe to hurt for half a day with just an hour of riding.

I think a potential explanation for why we look at binding setup in a different way, is that your non electric background probably means you aren’t always riding with heelstraps, and you want to be able to rotate the foot out. Whereas I did very little non electric riding, and when I went electric I added the heelstraps very early. Since I use heelstraps, I never need to rotate my feet out of the bindings, so a tighter fitting binding doesn’t bring it’s usual cons, only it’s pros.

Btw I think it’s a good idea to add heelstraps to the binding selection on the website. Many electric riders especially when doing gnarly terrain or jumps prefer to run heelstraps. Of course they can add it to the cart separately just it’s more convenient to have it on the same page.

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That’s very good to clarify, thank you.

Do we know what the peak motor current per side is? Obviously that wont change the max power (7.6kW) of the unit, but it does effect low-speed torque and power delivery throughout the duty cycle range.

Another question about this 18s Hobbywing ESC: can it be used on lower voltage batteries? Are the voltage cutoffs adjustable to allow for that?

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So are you going to give us the full ride review Al? Please

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I started writing a ride review and it turned into a board review as well… I’m gonna take my time with it and write it as one whole thing. Watch this space

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Soooooo the proto that I rode, I believe was basically the Agent Air setup, but with the bigger battery.

The Trucks

I have always loved matrix trucks, but surprisingly had never properly ridden matrix iii until riding the Agent. I felt at home immediately, I believe they were orange blocks on the outer setting, but Joel should confirm that… it was super carvy and felt just right in terms of stability and turn, especially with the bindings on. The matrix iiis would have to be the most tunable channel trucks on the market with the inner and outer position system, and by adding wedged risers you could tune even more. Got major love for the trucks, they are great trucks and great value. Cheap and cheerful is a good description.

Wheels were just rockstars and MBS off road 8s so nothing special there, but those wide boi tires on the XLs are pretty dreamy to look at :heart_eyes: I believe they do add a considerable amount of weight, so choosing those would definitely be a personal choice depending on your ride style.

The Deck

The deck had a good amount of flex, probably not so great for speed, but felt great for cruising and sucking up bumps. Saying that, I had no problem giving the throttle a good old squirt down the road…

One thing that I love (surprisingly) about the deck is that it is completely flat and the concave is built up with the grip pads. I believe that MBS will be offering different pads with different levels of concave, I think this is such an excellent idea to be able to tune your ride exactly the way you want it.

The channels through the deck are only enough for power wires @Regular_Michael, but they are super clean and well integrated, running to front and back.

The deck has inserts for bindings to run for either stance, in either direction as well as inserts for the new adjustable stance bindings. I believe it is symmetrical and I don’t know the tip angles but I’d take a stab at 30. It also has inserts for the esc to attach at both ends and I didn’t notice but I’m sure that the top box attachment fittings likely bolt into inserts as well.

I didn’t get to ride the adjustable stance bindings but playing with a set on the bench was drool-worthy. Great design, seem super robust and if you’ve got a weird chad-stance like me, these things will be a total game-changer.

It’s finished with what feels like a PET layer on both sides and just feels like a super premium deck, it’s really nice and would make a super good platform for any DIY EMTB.

The Top Box/Battery

This thing is the holy grail. It does everything it needs to while looking good at the same time. The quick release system is solid AF, interchangeable batteries in literally seconds without fucking around with straps or any bullshit is just GOAT for an EMTB in my opinion.

It’s super sturdy, looks and feels bomb-proof, I believe it also has a decent IP rating. Joel really knocked it out of the park here, best top box I have ever seen by a long shot.

Different battery configs are great to be able to choose between lightweight/heavyweight, depending on what you want to do with it… I’m slightly dubious about the discharge bms but I’m sure it’s a well considered decision by MBS and time will tell it’s reliability, I believe that when used as a part of the Agent system it will be just fine.

I’m not sure what the production batteries look like… I’m sure everybody would love to see them if you can share @MBS !!!

The Gear Drives

Helical steel/steel gears, motor position/backlash adjustable from outside, super clean bash guard fittings, simple wheel interface.

They’re quite similar to Apex Jump Drives, there’s not a great deal else I can say about them, perhaps the only thing I’d want to know about them that I can’t remember is how the motor pulley attaches to the shaft to prevent axial movement.

They’ve been designed to be easily maintained and rugged AF, utilitarian is the best word I can use to describe them.

The Motors

I was super surprised with the motors. They are 110kv and I thought they would run pretty hot. Joel and I were riding for probably close to half an hour, mostly just burning around in the grass, in a way that I know from experience is a great way to get things cooking quickly.

It wasn’t a hot day but it wasn’t cold either and after the grass session, the motors were still easily touchable by hand, definitely hot but not hot hot.

Time will tell how long they last in the wild, but we all know that motors are somewhat of a consumable item, and the replacement process has been designed to be simple and no-fuss, plug and play.

The ESC/Remote

I feel like the decision to use a black box esc is the right move for a complete, off the shelf board aimed at getting people out riding reliably. There is little chance for user error, it makes warranty a lot easier, and it allows for a more polished user experience than something like vesc.

Over the years this community has become pretty hung up on the idea that “if it’s not vesc, it’s trash” and I’m not entirely sure why. Vesc has been one of the biggest PITA things I’ve ever dealt with in my entire life.

The modes available through the remote and the app should be plenty enough for the majority of users, from peeps playing it safe to the peeps who just want raw power, it’s got it all. Exway have always provided a pretty good experience with the modes and customisation that can be set in the app, and the Agent is no different.

The remote feels pretty sturdy, comfortable to hold and the thumbwheel has heaps of throw. I wasn’t a big fan of the lower power modes (surprise surprise) but turbo mode was so much fun… I spent some time riding around in mode 3 and then made the change to turbo. I could not remove the grin from my face. A stupid, shit-eating, ear to ear grin that only comes from riding a board with more power than you can actually use.

I’d love to see more functionality added to the remote/app/esc like adjustable traction control and potentially even something like a hill climb mode that would limit ERPM but not power, and I’m sure these are things that could be added by exway as firmware upgrades in the future.

In any case, the board had plenty of power and in the turbo mode it was delivered just as well as any vesc board that i’ve ridden.

General Thoughts

The minute I stepped on the board and got into the first carve, I felt immediately familiar. The matrix trucks are a really fun and predictable ride and IMO the trucks are the heart of any ride.

The esc/remote provided plenty of power, I feel like the delivery could potentially be tuned a little better in the lower modes, but turbo didn’t leave me wanting for anything. It was awesome. It has a direct current mode, so go is go and back is brake/reverse, essential for an EMTB.

All the parts on their own are pretty great in their own right, but together they make a pretty formidable package. The attention to detail, polish, fit and finish of the Agent is something that I’ve never seen of an off the shelf EMTB. It’s a beautifully designed and finished complete and the years of R&D really show. I’m super impressed with how it’s come together and feel incredibly privileged to have been witness to it’s development.

Not sure what else I can say, except that after writing this, I’m pretty bloody keen to ride it again!!!

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Do you know if it operates on duty cycle control or current control? I feel like duty control would be really good off road.

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No idea. Push thumbwheel go zoom

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secret DIY

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or talk the alternate ESC hw vendors into also supporting ServoControl (aka pwm/ppm) as an alternative input.

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16kw on street. :smiley: (admittedly geared for 49mph, offroad needs less top end presumably )

torque is relative. you’d be surprised how much more you use once there’s more to give.

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:100:

My build philosophy is that if I can hit full throttle, it needs more power :grin:

I’ve used about 13kW while racing which is the limit of my battery pack, but I want more so I’m building a better pack soon, aiming for 17 to 19kW.

That said I have no doubt that this should be powerful enough for the job. It’s really only racing where that extra power actually matters.

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That’s sick. I love knowing guys like you and @fessyfoo (and heaps other on here) are pushing things so hard. 13kW on a board :exploding_head:.

Yeah, I agree racing is different. Out of curiosity, does anyone race on 4WD? Or is it just way to heavy? We don’t have concrete plans, but as mentioned before I’d love organize some off-road racing in 2025, even if it’s just small scale stuff to begin with. The weight could be a problem, but I wonder if 4WD is feasible for off road racing :thinking:

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Definetely would be feasable. Just have to adjust riding style and handling. Would be really good to see.

I run 4wd and 2wd. 4wd takes a little bit of getting used to but nothing that can’t be learnt with time and practice.

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Thanks so much for sharing all that Al. Your feedback was invaluable. A few quick details relating to your post.

Truck Feel
From memory, you were riding orange shockblocks (medium) in the inside position. That’s how the board is coming out of the box which I’m pretty happy with because some people will be riding without bindings and it still works well for that. Oranges in the outside position is STIFF. You can’t turn it without bindings. That’s what I use for the Australian Mountainboarders demo ramp system. So stable. So straight. For stock mountainboards we use white shockblocks (soft) in the outside position which is still stiffer than orange on the inside (what you rode), but all those ship with bindings. I Matrix trucks aren’t for everyone, but I do wonder if, given their insanely wide range of adjustment, if people who don’t love them might have ridden a set-up that wasn’t appropriately adjusted for the type of riding they were doing? Only time will tell as more people get to try all their different configurations. I’ll post a prelim revised shockblock adjustment chart here. Changed the format a bit. We’ll make it pretty for the site, but would be good to get some feedback on it. I had some speed limits for different turning resistances with the aim to prevent someone going too fast for a given resistance setting, but I’m not sure if it’s a good idea to publish those in case they’re interpreted incorrectly, as in it’s 100% safe to go X speed with Y resistance setting… Thoughts?

Battery Box Attachment
Yes, 4 binding style inserts attach the metal plate, to which the battery attaches, to the deck.

Discharge BMS
This is an interesting one. I get how it’s a problem when you’re pushing the limits of a system. But yes, I was adamant the AGENT battery needed it from a safety perspective (i.e. safety of being in people’s homes), because this is a product, not a DIY project. We’ve provided adequate headroom above the actual rating of the pack to be sure it’ll never be a problem within the AGENT system. But I can see the limitations for the DIY community because you guys like to push limits! With that said, I hope the 10.6kW limit of the big 1080 pack is at least a somewhat respectable limit.

Modes
We were refining stock modes up to a weak prior to shipping. It’ll be good to get market feedback on this. The good thing is that anyone who doesn’t like stock modes can use the app to customize to their liking. Turbo mode feels pretty legit to me as well. Super fun. You can toggle between normal braking mode (pull back is brake only) or free mode (pull back is brake then reverse). With the encouragement of Al and our UK riders I switched to the latter and would never switch back.

Thanks again for contributing to the discussion!

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Matrix III Turning Resistance Chart v.24.01.pdf (83.3 KB)

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I think it really depends what kind of racing you are talking about. Asphalt racing, racing gokart tracks, 4WD is best. The front brakes easily have about 2.5x the grip rear brakes have, this allows way higher speeds because you can accelerate for longer and brake much later. Acceleration wise a race spec 2WD and race spec 4WD doesn’t have much difference actually. There’s very few 2WDs out there that can do it, but some can max out tire grip on race tires near the point of wheelie, at that point 4WD is not an advantage. Besides, hard launches are harder with 4WD. You’ve got twice as many tires that you need to maintain grip on. The weight you can’t really feel, but the handling gets different for sure, and not in a way that I prefer. There’s a fix for that, torque vectoring, but I’m yet to have that on my board. The extra braking power is absolutely crazy so overall very much worth it though.

Then there’s offroad trails. It kinda depends on what trails you guys run, if you don’t need to assist turning with bunnyhops or don’t need to jump at all, yeah 4WD is better. But if you do - you reallly feel the weight, and you especially feel weight that’s on the front axle. You have basically two goals - get the weight as low as possible and the center of mass as far back as possible. Most of my trails are super tight turns that I often need to assist with bunnyhops even on super loose channel trucks, with a couple of small jumps, maybe some small pump sections also. I really don’t like 4WD here. On my offroad board I’m running 2WD which is still plenty powerful - 21s4p now but switching to a 20s1p battery soon to shave off weight, that I hope to get 5-6kW out of. Then a 1:7 steel gear drive (which is definitely a bit heavy) and 6375 reacher motors at 150A phase each, roughly 50A battery each. Light 8" tires all around, although I am considering light tires front and the same tires for the rear that you also run on the bigger models. This gets me to about 20.7kg now, should be about 17kg with the 20s1p jump pack and the Duality trucks that will go on it eventually, and about 18kg once I have wide tires on.

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Alternatively, make a board so sketchy and powerful that you only ride in mode 2 :joy:

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Offroad races aren’t a thing yet…

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Yes they are.

Just mostly OW and EUC focused. I still show up to rep my squad.

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I want esk8 Raleigh