I’m trying to remove adjacent parts to examine the coil termination area directly.
I pissed away a whole afternoon working this out. I made a tool to push the stator away from the bearing.
I didn’t want to mar the black anodized surface that seats the big bearing. Also, windings are precariously close to the inner face of that bearing to try to use a screwdriver, chisel, or something else stupid.
I used an inverted airblaster to freeze the stator aluminum at first. I didn’t heat the steel bearing. Maybe the temp expansion differential helped, maybe it was the plywood from HomeDepot or the Autozone gear puller.
This feels like an extra specific problem related to me, but I did it with semi off the shelf parts and I didn’t do bad things to factory precision surfaces.
Unsure of picture order. Will elaborate if you have the same problem. It did work. Thank you for coming to my TED talk.
It’s also difficult to remove this kind of stator from its bell.
I did this.
The aluminum cylinder with a BLDC looking mount bolt pattern was a trash bin part I used to pull the stator out. I just tried to do it without a disk and failed.
I bought myself a pulling tool for the job. Worked like a charm. The only hack was I had to put a big coin on the black faceplate to protect it and to better distribute the downward pressure.
Thanks for the pic. I have the big bearings and bearing pullers on hand, recently one of my motors was almost stuck. was about 1500km since the last clean so i opened it and the smaller bearings were the issue, i think it was shaved metal from the shaft that seized up the bearing. Took alot of iso and silicone spray to clean it out to get it working again. These bearings are definitely eating a nice amount of the shaft, a lot more since the last time i was in…explains the shaved metal.
The larger bearing is fine and runs smooth but has about 6000km on it. Should I just replace them with the SKFs I have? and any idea where to get the smaller bearings and a method to get those out? i don’t wanna break anything without having new motors to plug in so i can at least ride.
If you’ve already disassembled the motor and you’ve got everything you need then, yeah. I would. Stitch in time saves nine, and all that.
Search for ‘internal bearing puller’. I don’t have personal experience with this though so I can’t recommend anything in particular. Obviously you wanna make sure you’ve got all your working diameters right though.
I hammered the old ones out with a screwdriver but that only worked for the one on the inside around the shaft.
The two bottom ones are very thin and small, one exploded and the outer race is stuck ever since.
That was a 6389 Lacroix, I ended up ordering an entirely new one.
Some day I will get back to the old one.
Opening the motor was quite easy, I just used a bearing puller.
Nope, just friction.
I left the adapter plate on and carefully widened the slot between the plate and the can with i think some sort of screwdriver.
Then I could get the arms of the bearing puller in, the middle screw thingie screwed down on the axle shaft.
Squeakingly the two parts came apart.
Closing it I just used a clamp, one of these things that can be tightened by hand using like a pistol grip.
Quite easy if you’ve done it again, the only problem if you want to change the support bearing is you have to unplug the motor which is annoying af on a Lacroix because you have to open the enclosure.
It’s a bitch and a half to get closed again.
