Thanks for the advise!
How do I do this? “Motor detect”?
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N, you have to measure the thermistor resistance at two know temperatures and plug them here
And easy way is use ambiente temperature and heat the motor with a hairdryer, be careful to not get it to hot, 75°C to 80 °C is good, and also leave it a long time (30 min+) for everything to stabilize
Also you need some way to measure the motor temperature, and IR thermometer is cheap and works
It would be great if motor manufacturers start to include it in the specs, and improperly calibrated thermistor is almost useless, or it reports higher and your board throttle without needing to or lower and you cook your motor
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ohh I see!
Mine did not include thermistor sensors in them. I’ll look into adding one in the future if this problem persists!
after changing motor amps to 40a (each), the throttling issue wasn’t really there anymore
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If you do, remember to measure the beta before installing in the motor, way easier
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Did a range test yesterday and hit 49km range!
There were quite a bit of hills during this run, and near the end I was gunning it pretty hard just to drain it before the sun went down. Overall very pleased with this range and I can stretch it more if needed or in a group ride setting.
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Did u hit empty? I tried my best but my.feet died before I could hit cut off =P but maybe I needed more hills 
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As much as I could! 
I ran it until the VESC battery low cutoff settings limited me to ~6kmh. Thats as “dead” as can be in my books 
I wonder how far I can cruise for at 6kmh before it completely dies XD
Such a nice build my daily ride has way too many speed bumps so i had to single stack. i have amost an identical build. Its very slick mine tops out in the 60s. Took ages to get my dkp stable at speeds. Looking forward to riding mine again in 4 weeks. You live in a beautiful part of the world. My LY 40 cost me nearly $300 canadian dollardoos, thats 6 bottles of canadian club yep we have a lot of tax on alcohol free healthcare aint going to suck is self. Great build
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not far… trust me
please watch out with these cells, i have tested many liitokala cells and many cant even come close to the c rating they tell you
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Thanks for the kind words @Movation
Did you top out at 60kmh with the airless AT wheels?
You bottom out even with the AT wheels? :o
I’ve gotten some light (barely noticeable) scrapes already with speed bumps, but fairly minor and I’m always pretty careful around those.
Yeah, they’re manufacture “rated” for bs 40a
But independent ecig forum cell testers tested them to be good at 15-20a continuous.
And I’m running them at 12a max which is way below the limit. (60a/5)
Thats my experience I have a 8S pack in the workshop I have it connected to my workshops solar inverter fot testing easily maxes out the inverter 2500Watts without getting too hot. Bang for buck they are awesome. Yep with airless, yeah they are the NOT the same as pneumatics and I have the scar to prove it Dex is sending me TB110 with my TB40 deck these will live on kracken Its getting a rebuild soon. To make it more stable and shake off the curse.
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Went for a morning ride before work because its sunny! I love it! 30km ride, avg moving speed of 30kmh, top speed of 53kmh!
The roads were slightly wet due to the dew/temperature. A great thing about the cloud wheels profile is that they don’t splash at all! If it was regular wheels, I’d be all muddied up. And the extra wide hangers also help I guess. Barley any dirtiness on the bottom of the board after the entire ride
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Been on any more rides, still holding up well? Did you figure out some nice vesc settings and maybe tried out FOC?
Yes I have.
Been getting some amazing weather this past week and went on quite a few rides! I got around 325km total so far and loving the range I get
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I also attempted the new HFI last week but wasnt able to get it working. I tried sensorless FOC, but it was WORSE than sensorless BLDC because it stuttered pretty often even after it got going ~10kmh which was super sketch. But the brakes were a lot stronger than sensorless BLDC.
I ended up extending my sensor wires and tried sensored FOC. And only one side was working for some strange reason. (Sensored FOC acts like unsensored FOC when the sensor is unplugged, so it acted like that. (The motor would still run, but as if it was sensored foc)
I tried literally EVERYTHING:
- re-soldered the sensore wire extensions
- try all the phase wire combinations (It was correct the 1st time)
- re-detect motors
- re-flash firmware
- downgrade the VESC tool
- downgrade the firmware
- change motors to different sides of the VESC and re-configuring motors
- change back to the same sides
And then it WORKED! :o
The only reason I can think of it originally, I had to “invert” the non-working side via the VESC tool. But after I switched back, the phase wires worked out so I didn’t have to invert any motors. It might be a bug, idk. But I’m happy I got it working
Thoughts on Sensored FOC:
SO much better than unsensored BLDC! The “delay” between the throttle and motors is zero! And that makes it a much smoother ride and feel (unsensored BLDC takes ~200-500ms for the phase detection to kick in even when you’re at speed).
The brakes are also much better! in BLDC they were lacking at low speeds even with the “slow reverse erpm trick” Now, it actually feel like its braking as it should. My meepo board braked better than BLDC which was pretty sad.
Overall I’m happy to have made the jump and this board is even better than before!
My MakerX dual esc is also holding up great with my settings. 60a/-20a batt (total). 40a/-60a motor (each)
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How thick off a riser did you use?
it was 3/4" on the front.
And none on the rear because it was high enough already
Update:
I clocked ~820kms on this board total and I am loving this board!
…Until the battery broke yesterday… 
Yesterday, when I wend to ride, I noticed that the battery meter on my remote started at 75%. I thought maybe my charger came unplugged half way or something. I did a short ride, and plugged it in. The charger stopped charging and had the green light too quickly compared to normal. I decided open it up and measure the battery terminals. I got 46.1v D= (Expected 50.4v)
I tried another 12s charger in case my charger was broken, but got the same green light at 46.1v
I measured the BMS JST connector leads and this was my results 
I have logged around 820kms on this battery and only ~23 cycles (of which ~5 cycles is from dead to full). And have used fairly conservative settings at 60a batt max (total) and 40a motor max (each) The enclosure is sealed up well and never ridden in the rain. And the battery is well padded.
There doesn’t seem to be any visual indication of cells shorting or burn marks or anything out of the ordinary. So I am assuming something went wrong with the BMS and it drained the 11p pack 
I managed to get ahold of a local builder that does batteries so I’m just going to get him to swap out the P group and install a new BMS.
The thing that sucks is it takes 2 months to ship these cells from aliexpress :’( Hopefully someone on this forum has a few extra cells they can spare :’(
Actually so sad I can’t ride anymore 
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